My take on the oiling system crossover tube for the small block

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Jadaharabi said:
I don't think anybody has mentioned it but is that little plug that's down there underneath the pressure sending unit approximately 7 and 1/2 in down or about 2 and 1/2 inch up from the bottom of the block missing. You know the one that doesn't affect oil pressure according to many experts.
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My 74 block was 2.26” into the hole from bottom of block/main surface upwards.
 
mopardude318 said:
I'm pulling the motor today. How can I check that? Inserting a rod down that pressure take off port?
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Just stick a coat hanger down the hole where the sending unit by the distributor and see if you hit something solid. That will tell you if the plug is in there.
 
Jadaharabi said:
I don't think anybody has mentioned it but is that little plug that's down there underneath the pressure sending unit approximately 7 and 1/2 in down or about 2 and 1/2 inch up from the bottom of the block missing. You know the one that doesn't affect oil pressure according to many experts.
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Lol, lol,lol that would really be something if the plug is not there lol.
 
mopardude318 said:
So I put the 90* adapter on yesterday and hooked up the pressure gauge in the photo shown. (looks close to the header, it is not)

View attachment 1715243371

That goes to the AutoMeter gauge in the Middle , and the AutoGauge on the left is back of the engine. I had my idle real low trying to get the lowest idle speed to capture the lowest pressure reading. (I had to blip the throttle to keep it from dying) For some odd reason, oil psi isn't going as low in idle like in the previous videos. Take note that the AutoGauge on the left reads consistently a little lower pressure on all my videos.
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Colder oil temps perhaps? It would be instructive to swap the gauges and see if the lower pressure flows the gauge on the left. Sounds like it would from your last note.
 
nm9stheham said:
Colder oil temps perhaps? It would be instructive to swap the gauges and see if the lower pressure flows the gauge on the left. Sounds like it would from your last note.
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No I had it warmed up. It was hot. :)
But I have the engine pulled out now so I'll update on that plug under the oil sending unit. Should be there. Lol... I hope.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Cam Oiling Changes

Now is a good time to discuss the cam bearings and the feeding of the heads by the number 2 and number 4 bearing journals.
The purposes of these mods are to keep the oil going to the bearings instead of blowing out at the cam journal.
There are 2 ways to restrict the oil going to the cam bearing. The first is the hardest. You go into the oiling passage from the main bearing saddles. Tap the passage to 5/16-18 then drill a 1/8" hole in a set screw and Loctite it in place. This is done on number 1, 3 and 5. Number 2 and 4 are feeding the heads so we aren’t restricting them.
The second way is to restrict the oil by drilling a 1/8 hole in the cam bearings. Then install them so only the one hole lines up with the main bearing feed passage. This will block off the oiling to the heads. The heads will be oiled by a mod to the passages in the lifter valley.
By restricting the oil to the cam bearings we are holding back oil to be used by the crankshaft and rod bearings while still lubing the cam bearings but not the heads.
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Do you have any tips on drilling the set screws? I destroyed several expensive carbide bits and a bunch of anything I could find.
 
Jadaharabi said:
My question is what do tou need with set screws in the main saddles?
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Jada I blocked the feed passage to the drivers side on my motor with a set screw in the number one main. Some guys do it there, some guys do it in the galley.
 
Duane said:
Are you talking about the feeds to the cam bearings from the saddles
Or just blocking the passage in number 1 main.
You do not need carbide.
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I'm talking about the cam bearing feeds. I used carbine because they were available. I snapped the first one. Then I slowed down on the second and just dulled it and every other bit I tried just was useless.
 
66 Val said:
I'm talking about the cam bearing feeds. I used carbine because they were available. I snapped the first one. Then I slowed down on the second and just dulled it and every other bit I tried just was useless.
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You don't need to do that. You drill a 1/8 inch hole in the cam bearing and line it up with the oil pasage. There is no need for drilling out set screws.
But if you must the secret is to purge drill them at slow speed.
 
66 Val said:
I'm talking about the cam bearing feeds. I used carbine because they were available. I snapped the first one. Then I slowed down on the second and just dulled it and every other bit I tried just was useless.
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You could just redrill the cam bearings themselves. But I do not know your entire plan.
Ideally I would try to have the set screws drilled in a lathe and to avoid breakfast nag bits you should have some pretty good rpm.
What size hole are we talking.
 
Duane said:
You could just redrill the cam bearings themselves. But I do not know your entire plan.
Ideally I would try to have the set screws drilled in a lathe and to avoid breakfast nag bits you should have some pretty good rpm.
What size hole are we talking.
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I prefer my breakfast nag bits with milk and cinnamon.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Oil Pump Mods

All these oil system mods will amount to a pile of scrap metal if you can't get enough oil thru the pump. Milodon and Moroso no longer make the high volume rotor pump kits. The hv pumps are still restricted by the 3/8 npt inlet. Then comes Kelvo and Canton oil pans, they use the bottom pump plate pickup for oil intake on their rear sump pans. These pans and pickups are great if you have the room, and aren't running in stock eliminator where a stock pan is required.
What I am doing where a stock pan is needed, is to drill the inlet out to 1/2 npt on a HV pump.

View attachment 1715241535

Then the 18650 Milodon pickup is fitted with a new 1/2 pipe thread end.

View attachment 1715241533 View attachment 1715241520

The left pickup is 1/2 npt inch and the middle and the right are 3/8 npt.

While the pump is apart it gets the output passage drilled to 1/2 then deburred, cleaned and a new Hi Pressure bypass spring installed.
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Just got my new 18650 pickup tube and was surprised to see it only has a 3/8" npt fitting on the inlet.
I re-read this post and now see that you modified yours for the 1/2" fitting and it does not come that way.
I will do the same after drilling out the pump.
 
prochargedmopar said:
Just got my new 18650 pickup tube and was surprised to see it only has a 3/8" npt fitting on the inlet.
I re-read this post and now see that you modified yours for the 1/2" fitting and it does not come that way.
I will do the same after drilling out the pump.
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You have to cut off about 2 inches of the tube in order to remove all of the screw in insert.
I used a black iron 1/2 inch npt pipe nipple from HomeDepot.
I inserted the tube into the pipe nipple then took a center punch and flaired the end of the tube inside the outside tube for a tighter fit before welding it together.
 
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Duane said:
But why use a set screw at all. What is the rocker oiling plan?
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I was confused too. I think this was talking about just restricting oil to the cam bearings, blocking the oil to the heads from the cam area, and providing full time oiling to the rockers with a separate mods. See the early posts on page 1; post #3 or 4.
 
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