My take on the oiling system crossover tube for the small block

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Oh shoot,
I never gave it a thought when just feeding the blower as the one Im using is NOT self contained.
Also feeding a turbo will be two extra "bleeds" built into the system.
Hmmmmmm
If you remote feed the oil filter, there is a spot where you can easily tap off a feed to a turbo with little or no impact to the internal oil distribution.
 
Read these 2 pages.
You are given 2 options to upgrade oiling system.
One is restrict flow and open passages so it goes where you want it by tubing galleries.......

The other is to close off #1 main gallery feed to passenger side and install crossover tube to feed #1 bearing and drivers side oil gallery.

It States both are feasable options for up to 10k rpm engines.

Yes, the pickup tube and pan should be modified to support the increased oil requirements of high rpm demands.

This mod was CO-INVENTED by Larry Schreib and Larry Atherton so it says on the first paragraph of next page.
All blocks were sent to Bob mullins and Co. for the modifications to be performed.

Dropbox - Photo Nov 01, 11 54 45 AM.jpg

Dropbox - Photo Nov 01, 11 54 50 AM.jpg
 
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Any reason to not use a softer set screw? Like brass? Then stake it in, once it is set in place with Loctite.
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All the set screws I found were stainless steel or a harden steel never found a brass one. Then I went to the drilled cam bearings. Much easier to do the bearings and no broken taps or drill bits.
 
Read these 2 pages.
You are given 2 options to upgrade oiling system.
One is restrict flow and open passages so it goes where you want it by tubing galleries.......

The other is to close off #1 main gallery feed to passenger side and install crossover tube to feed #1 bearing and drivers side oil gallery.

It States both are feasable options for up to 10k rpm engines.

Yes, the pickup tube and pan should be modified to support the increased oil requirements of high rpm demands.

This mod was CO-INVENTED by Larry Schreib and Larry Atherton so it says on the first paragraph of next page.
All blocks were sent to Bob mullins and Co. for the modifications to be performed.

Dropbox - Photo Nov 01, 11 54 45 AM.jpg

Dropbox - Photo Nov 01, 11 54 50 AM.jpg
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Method 1
Sleeve the right oil galley and plug the left side front passage at the main journal saddle. This method is for solid lifter or solid roller cams. The lifters are splash lubed.

Method 2
The crossover tube method is used with hydraulic lifters. Everywhere I have read this was created by Larry Atherton although others have joined with him to published books that contain these methods.
It was designed to stop the starvation of the rods created by the right oil galley on the number 2 and number 4 mains
Page 9 of GJs thread talks about this and has pictures.

Any one interested in the oiling mods I did?

14 K ending.jpg
 
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Method 1
Sleeve the right oil galley and plug the left side front passage at the main journal saddle. This method is for solid lifter or solid roller cams. The lifters are splash lubed.

Method 2
The crossover tube method is used with hydraulic lifters. Everywhere I have read this was created by Larry Atherton although others have joined with him to published books that contain these methods.
It was designed to stop the starvation of the rods created by the right oil galley on the number 2 and number 4 mains
Page 9 of GJs thread talks about this and has pictures.

Any one interested in the oiling mods I did?

I’m having hell trying to find proper fittings and taps to build the crossover.
Just Spent 30m in the back parts aisle of Autozone sifting through brake line tubing/fittings and never came up with something I could use.

Been to Home depot, Lowes, and O’reilly, and Tractor Supply too.

Bought 1/8” and 1/4 pipe taps.
3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 1/2” long drills but nobody stocks a 9/16.

What a pita.
Next up is plumbing supply house.
May have to break down and just get everything online through eBay or ship to store. Uugh.
 
I’m having hell trying to find proper fittings and taps to build the crossover.
Just Spent 30m in the back parts aisle of Autozone sifting through brake line tubing/fittings and never came up with something I could use.

Been to Home depot, Lowes, and O’reilly, and Tractor Supply too.

Bought 1/8” and 1/4 pipe taps.
3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 1/2” long drills but nobody stocks a 9/16.

What a pita.
Next up is plumbing supply house.
May have to break down and just get everything online through eBay or ship to store. Uugh.

When you drill for the crossover you must be careful to place it at the proper angle. Otherwise you will not be able to screw the 45 degree fitting in.

Start with a small bit and work up in size.

You need a 7/16 drill bit and a 1/4 NPT tap
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Lot of 4 * 1/4" NPT Male x 3/8" Tube O.D. Steel Compression Fitting 45 Elbow | eBay

9/32" Aircraft Extension Drill Bit 12" Long Moly 7 Lifetime Warranty Dill Hog | eBay
 
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You have to cut off about 2 inches of the tube in order to remove all of the screw in insert.
I used a black iron 1/2 inch npt pipe nipple from HomeDepot.
I inserted the tube into the pipe nipple then took a center punch and flaired the end of the tube inside the outside tube for a tighter fit before welding it together.
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I used a piece of 3/4 inch inside diameter pipe. to adapt the 1/2 npt pipe to the pickup tube.
The pipe nipple is butted up against the pickup tube inside the 3/4 sleeve.

20171007_132028.jpg
 
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When you drill for the crossover you must be careful to place it at the proper angle. Otherwise you will not be able to screw the 45 degree fitting in.

Start with a small bit and work up in size.

You need a 7/16 drill bit and a 1/4 NPT tap
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Lot of 4 * 1/4" NPT Male x 3/8" Tube O.D. Steel Compression Fitting 45 Elbow | eBay

9/32" Aircraft Extension Drill Bit 12" Long Moly 7 Lifetime Warranty Dill Hog | eBay

Ordered those, picked up legit 1/2” and 3/8” mpt pipe taps from napa, 3/8” o.d. steel tube also from Napa, 9/16” drill bit and some pipe fittings from Home depot, then ordered a 45/64” bit off ebay.

Should be good to go when it all comes in and be set for retirement on tooling. LOL

I’ve now got from 1/8 to 3/4 npt taps, plus bits, plus an assortment of looooong drills.
 
Ordered those, picked up legit 1/2” and 3/8” mpt pipe taps from napa, 3/8” o.d. steel tube also from Napa, 9/16” drill bit and some pipe fittings from Home depot, then ordered a 45/64” bit off ebay.

Should be good to go when it all comes in and be set for retirement on tooling. LOL

I’ve now got fron 1/8 to 3/4 npt taps, plus bits, plus an assortment of looooong drills.
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What are you using the 9/16 for?
 
I haven't seen the crossover used when the lifter bores are bushed , my thought is that it isn't needed
 
For reference, I just measured 2 here in the same fashion:
  1. 273 block - 7-1/2"
  2. 360 block - 7-7/8"
The one deeper down, in the 360 block, was above the oil passage to the filter by 3/8". It was driven in with the cup 'down' (with the flanges were down).

There is nothing critical about how deep this step is, and it may not have been critically set when originally drilled. And the plug may not be driven home all the way. Plus, if the plug is driven in with the cup 'up', the measurement from the pressure sensor hole is going to be deeper by around 1/4"-3/8". So, I don't think that any of these numbers listed in this thread are going to be exactly repeatable, block to block.
 
For reference, I just measured 2 here in the same fashion:
  1. 273 block - 7-1/2"
  2. 360 block - 7-7/8"
The one deeper down, in the 360 block, was above the oil passage to the filter by 3/8". It was driven in with the cup 'down' (with the flanges were down).

There is nothing critical about how deep this step is, and it may not have been critically set when originally drilled. And the plug may not be driven home all the way. Plus, if the plug is driven in with the cup 'up', the measurement from the pressure sensor hole is going to be deeper by around 1/4"-3/8". So, I don't think that any of these numbers listed in this thread are going to be exactly repeatable, block to block.

Just curious how would you install it with the cup up?
 
For reference, I just measured 2 here in the same fashion:
  1. 273 block - 7-1/2"
  2. 360 block - 7-7/8"
The one deeper down, in the 360 block, was above the oil passage to the filter by 3/8". It was driven in with the cup 'down' (with the flanges were down).

There is nothing critical about how deep this step is, and it may not have been critically set when originally drilled. And the plug may not be driven home all the way. Plus, if the plug is driven in with the cup 'up', the measurement from the pressure sensor hole is going to be deeper by around 1/4"-3/8". So, I don't think that any of these numbers listed in this thread are going to be exactly repeatable, block to block.

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2 1/8 - 2 3/8 inches under the cap

7 1/2 - 7 11/16 at the top

I would see if you could tap it in about 3/8 to 1/2

I just measured another 360 block I have in my garage. From the top it is exactly 7 1/2".

IMG-3988.jpg


You can see here the mark on my 408 is 1/2" from going in on the 360 block I measured. :

IMG-3986.jpg


Measured from the bottom:

IMG-3989.jpg


2 1/4" inches:

IMG-3990.jpg


Could this be a problem? Do I need to tap that oil plug in my 408 up from the main cap side a 1/2"?
 
I just measured another 360 block I have in my garage. From the top it is exactly 7 1/2".

View attachment 1715245208

You can see here the mark on my 408 is 1/2" from going in on the 360 block I measured. :

View attachment 1715245209

Measured from the bottom:

View attachment 1715245210

2 1/4" inches:

View attachment 1715245211

Could this be a problem? Do I need to tap that oil plug in my 408 up from the main cap side a 1/2"?
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I would tap it in.

Did you check the inside driver side rear galley plug to see if it is missing.
 
How would I do that? Remove that pipe plug on the rear right, and insert rod?
Driver side is the left side. Remove the plug at the rear of the block and shine a light inside. There should be a plug inside an inch or so in the end of the oil galley.
 
Could this be a problem? Do I need to tap that oil plug in my 408 up from the main cap side a 1/2"?
The plug stops against a step. No one here knows for sure if the step is drilled at the same depth in each block. So if the step is shallow (up from the bottom of the block) you may be trying to drive the plug deeper than that step.

Just look at the plug in the passage up into the block (that the oil pump feeds through the cap) and look at the side passage leading off to the side towards the filter location; that side passage will be obvious. If the plug is completely clear of that passage, then it is as far up as it needs to be. That plug just needs to be clear of the side passage so the oil can flow out to the filter. This is the right way to check this.... avoids any ambiguities of such measurements.
 
There is a shoulder that the plug will seat against. So when you are driving it in it should come to a sudden stop.
 
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