My take on the oiling system crossover tube for the small block

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Keep in mind, pressure and volume are not the same. High volume does not necessarily mean high pressure.
 
BTW, the lag in pressure looks to me to be in the gauge action, not the oiling system. So either you have fine oil pressure, or it is low and new gauge reads high LOL. I spotted nothing awful in the filters.
 
Check #3 an see if you actually followed the passage into the galley and then drill through the back side of the passage.

Run one of those little vidio cams in the galley an find out where the. hole is.

This is turning into a "how not to do the oiling system mods".

I bet your learning a lot about the sbm oiling system now.

Quick video explanation of mistakes and showing a few pics with borescope cam.

 
Well I'll let ya know when I get my HV oil pump from Precision, he also recommended to shim it using a 3/16 shim, since he said the HP springs are all over the place giving false readings.
 
Uuuuuuh... I would not shim it like that at all.. 3/16" shim will push the pressure waaay up. I'm quite serious about that. Started shimming pump springs a while ago and 3/16" seems way out of line. Sure you got that number right?

What is the point of paying for a blueprinted pump if they are not going to test and set up for a specific pressure relief? If the spring is correct (72 psi), then shimming that much will push it well beyond 100 psi, I bet.
 
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Uuuuuuh... I would not shim it like that at all.. 3/16" shim will push the pressure waaay up. I'm quite serious about that. Started shimming pump springs a while ago and 3/16" seems way out of line. Sure you got that number right?

What is the point of paying for a blueprinted pump if they are not going to test and set up for a specific pressure relief? If the spring is correct (72 psi), then shimming that much will push it well beyond 100 psi, I bet.
Just to clarify, does he have a high volume pump or not.
I see nothing wrong with 26 psi hot at idle. It is the maximum pressure that is in question correct. If this motor does not have a high volume pump and makes 45-50 psi, then just switching to a high volume melling with a 72 pound spring will boost pressure
Easily to a satisfactory pressure.
 
Uuuuuuh... I would not shim it like that at all.. 3/16" shim will push the pressure waaay up. I'm quite serious about that. Started shimming pump springs a while ago and 3/16" seems way out of line. Sure you got that number right?

What is the point of paying for a blueprinted pump if they are not going to test and set up for a specific pressure relief? If the spring is correct (72 psi), then shimming that much will push it well beyond 100 psi, I bet.

Ya know, I might be wrong about the 3/16" part. From what Doug over at Precision mentioned on the phone was that he does not use the high pressure springs, he uses shims with the stock spring to bring the pressure up. I'm sure he has his reasons of doing it that way. I am certain he does a flow/pressure test.

Just to clarify, does he have a high volume pump or not.
I see nothing wrong with 26 psi hot at idle. It is the maximum pressure that is in question correct. If this motor does not have a high volume pump and makes 45-50 psi, then just switching to a high volume melling with a 72 pound spring will boost pressure
Easily to a satisfactory pressure.

I have a HV pump on the engine right now. Haven't done anything else to it, no HP springs, no shims. Stock out of the box Melling HV pump from Napa.

We'll find out in a little while how it acts with the new pump. I have to change out a leaking rear main seal, so while I'm there I'll try out his pump, not gonna hurt any.

Take a look.
Precision Oil Pumps
 
Ya know, I might be wrong about the 3/16" part. From what Doug over at Precision mentioned on the phone was that he does not use the high pressure springs, he uses shims with the stock spring to bring the pressure up. I'm sure he has his reasons of doing it that way. I am certain he does a flow/pressure test.



I have a HV pump on the engine right now. Haven't done anything else to it, no HP springs, no shims. Stock out of the box Melling HV pump from Napa.

We'll find out in a little while how it acts with the new pump. I have to change out a leaking rear main seal, so while I'm there I'll try out his pump, not gonna hurt any.

Take a look.
Precision Oil Pumps
If you have a melling hv pump which comes with a 72 pound spring
and are only making 45-50 pounds you have an excessive leak somewhere. I know guys with that pump that make 70 pounds at idle. I would think the lifters are the issue then or a missed oil galley plug.
 
I'll be a sumbitch if I would be takin that thing apart. There's nothing wrong with it. Unless that leakin rear main is just makin you lose sleep at night.......
 
If you have a melling hv pump which comes with a 72 pound spring
and are only making 45-50 pounds you have an excessive leak somewhere. I know guys with that pump that make 70 pounds at idle. I would think the lifters are the issue then or a missed oil galley plug.

We've pretty much determined where his leak is. He has AMC style lifters with pushrod oiling.
 
I'll be a sumbitch if I would be takin that thing apart. There's nothing wrong with it. Unless that leakin rear main is just makin you lose sleep at night.......

Rusty, it's a pretty bad leak man...This is just a couple hours after I run the engine, I clean it up every day... LOL -HEY! That's where my damn oil leak is from!! lmao.

IMG-3885.jpg


I'm ready for it. It'll take me an hour.

IMG-3968.jpg
 
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Ya know, I might be wrong about the 3/16" part. From what Doug over at Precision mentioned on the phone was that he does not use the high pressure springs, he uses shims with the stock spring to bring the pressure up. I'm sure he has his reasons of doing it that way. I am certain he does a flow/pressure test.



I have a HV pump on the engine right now. Haven't done anything else to it, no HP springs, no shims. Stock out of the box Melling HV pump from Napa.

We'll find out in a little while how it acts with the new pump. I have to change out a leaking rear main seal, so while I'm there I'll try out his pump, not gonna hurt any.

Take a look.
Precision Oil Pumps
High volume is high volume. Unless your pump has a 50 pound spring for some reason, the precision pump will make no difference imho. Oil pumps are over rated in how they work. End play is the only critical dimension. I have played around with melling pumps for years, they all work.
 
Yeah then that's worth it man. That said, I really don't think you're gonna see a huge difference changing pumps, because I don't believe it's the pump. But hay, if I had to do what you're doin, I'd probably try another one, too.
 
Easiest fix is to pull the intake and put in the comp lifters. Solid all the way down, no pushrods oiling. IMHO.

Yeah but the word "fix" implies there's something wrong. IMO, there's not. It won't hurt a thing to keep it just like it is........with a replaced rear main seal of course.
 
Yeah but the word "fix" implies there's something wrong. IMO, there's not. It won't hurt a thing to keep it just like it is........with a replaced rear main seal of course.
I agree to a point, it's not rediculously low, it's just not what it could be with that pump.
This thread is very much like the Bam lifters thread where guys keep trying to run a roller lifter without block mods and then have less than ideal oil pressure. As far as I know the only drop in roller lifter for Mopar small blocks is the comp cams.
 
Easiest fix is to pull the intake and put in the comp lifters. Solid all the way down, no pushrods oiling. IMHO.
I have aluminum heads which hang over, I'd have to pull them too.

Small bit of data from the Dyno.

IMG-3970.jpg
 
What is the line psi. It is consistently 10 psi lower than the oil psi column. Was the pressure readings taken at 2 different locations on the block?
At the time I had a 90* oil filter adapter, which has a take off port there as well. That is the 2 locations which were used.
 
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