Narrowed 8 3/4 questions

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rbkt65 said:
all i want to know is, if you shave the backing plates, what road do you drive down and where to send the sympathy cards.
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:lol:

sympathy for whom? My funeral will be a celebration of DEATH!! (cue heavy metal)

but seriously, I take the words of caution with great merit. Until 72blunblu messaged me and said the actual "why" you dont run a wider drum than shoe.....i just didnt know man. I am not a person you can say "well you don't do this because you dont......it wont work....well......WHY? This great forum is limited to its words only and although I feel I have a lot of logic and knowledge when it comes to mechanics, I didnt know the drum kept the lateral movement of the shoe.

Learn somethin new everyday.



On another note since I have 11x2 backing plates and those drums are tough to find AND I am taking it to an exhaust shop on friday.....

I will rob some brake assemblies off of another 8 3/4. I didn't want to start robbing off of a complete diff if possible, but.....safety.
 
I have a pair of 11x2 inch backing plates but am hesitant to build them. I think that rock auto has/had the rear drums for 11x2. As my grandpa used to say "if you don't learn something new everyday then you ain't paying attention ". Glad you are taking time to look/see/ evaluate the concern. Good luck. There is a spec that will help you identify the backing plates. I think I have it. I will take a picture/post the measurements.
 
rbkt65 said:
I have a pair of 11x2 inch backing plates but am hesitant to build them. I think that rock auto has/had the rear drums for 11x2. As my grandpa used to say "if you don't learn something new everyday then you ain't paying attention ". Glad you are taking time to look/see/ evaluate the concern. Good luck. There is a spec that will help you identify the backing plates. I think I have it. I will take a picture/post the measurements.
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rock auto says they have 11" drums, but i cannot find the ever important "2" number.

I looked up 68 road runner
 
I can't seem to figure if there is a sheared off thrust button or just witness marks. Is this clutch or cone.

20240703_161325.jpg


20240703_161334.jpg
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Thinking it's a cone.
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i was thinking "cone no thrust button" but ive been mistaken more than once today.

I may have to try harder on this dropout. It looks like there is a dimple in there (where the button is located) and it looks like there is a round circle around the dimple.....so maybe its sheared off? How hard should I try is the question or say .....meh.
 
Also, these are 3:91s. I have a 3:23 center section that I could use. 27.5-28" tall tire (325/50/15)

383 big block 250/250@50. stock heads...4 speed
 
Got this from Oldkimmer a few years ago and may have seen 72bluNblu post it once. turn backing plate on axle side on flat table. knot on bp has to hang off table. measure from table to center hole. measurements as follows.
1 1/2 inches are 11x2
1 3/4 inches is 11x2 1/2
2 inches is 11x3
thinking 72bluNblu said 11 bp are 12 inches in diameter and 10 inch bp are 10 7/8 diameter.
 
rbkt65 said:
Got this from Oldkimmer a few years ago and may have seen 72bluNblu post it once. turn backing plate on axle side on flat table. knot on bp has to hang off table. measure from table to center hole. measurements as follows.
1 1/2 inches are 11x2
1 3/4 inches is 11x2 1/2
2 inches is 11x3
thinking 72bluNblu said 11 bp are 12 inches in diameter and 10 inch bp are 10 7/8 diameter.
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Those are the same measurements I linked in the other thread earlier. I’ve been posting those measurements for over 10 years now.

The backing plates themselves are ~1” larger in diameter than the brake diameter, so 11” brakes have ~12” diameter backing plates (outside to outside on the plate), 10” brakes have ~11” backing plates. But of course the drums are stamped with their minimum diameter so if you have the drums it’s easy to tell what diameter brakes you have.
 
clementine said:
I can't seem to figure if there is a sheared off thrust button or just witness marks. Is this clutch or cone.

View attachment 1716271323

View attachment 1716271324
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you have a cone type sure grip -- thrust button shown in the pic is correct for the cone type sure grip and looks to be ok -- looks like the pinion bearings gave up or the yoke nut backed off and the pinion was chewing on your carrier -- the pic you posted of the backing plate shows the turned up edge of the parking brake strut which i have only seen on stock A-body backing plates . B,C ,E body backing plates have a flat parking brake strut.
 
Thanks for all the replies fellas, I believe I will be able to limp this thing to the exhaust shop tomorrow.

I will have to rob an unmolested A body 3:23 sure grip unit unfortunately to get it done. I was hoping to keep that unit together but a guys gotta do what a guys gotta do.

I can always reassemble it when I get the proper parts for this one.

FABO rules!!

Happy 4th. stay safe. I work in emergency medicine and the hand and burn teams are always busy.
 
john-9 said:
The pic you posted of the backing plate shows the turned up edge of the parking brake strut which i have only seen on stock A-body backing plates . B,C ,E body backing plates have a flat parking brake strut.
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That’s actually not completely true abut the parking brake struts. The SBP A-body drums have them. And pretty much all of the 10” BBP brake struts are flat. BUT- 11” brake struts also had that bent section. Not all of them, but a whole lot of them.

These are 11” brake struts, both factory and aftermarket

IMG_7423.jpeg
 
Well due to the fine folks here on FABO, the trip to the exhaust was went flawless.
Used some small brakes off another diff.

I'll have to revisit the differential situation when i get it back, but for a maiden voyage.... it went well.
 
OP - So that you understand the thrust button and adjusting the axles better. Stand at either the yoke end or ring gear end of the drop out. Stick 2 long tools in each side of the dropout to contact the thrust buttons. You should be able to press lightly on the tools and feel the thrust buttons slide back and forth, right and left. Now picture your axles where the tools are and feel how adjusting one axle pushes against the non-adjustable side, so when you adjust one axle, you are adjusting both axles.
 
str12-340 said:
OP - So that you understand the thrust button and adjusting the axles better. Stand at either the yoke end or ring gear end of the drop out. Stick 2 long tools in each side of the dropout to contact the thrust buttons. You should be able to press lightly on the tools and feel the thrust buttons slide back and forth, right and left. Now picture your axles where the tools are and feel how adjusting one axle pushes against the non-adjustable side, so when you adjust one axle, you are adjusting both axles.
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Yes, that makes sense. What I am running up against is that the thrust block has no holes/place for the buttons to live. I have a cone type sure grip/limited slip. AND this diff I am finding was probably set up for a drag car and not much else.

So, I am using the thrust block in the same manner that you explained. The next problem I am running up against is that when I tighten the non-adjuster side first, as I would think would be the MO, the bearing/axle flange takes out all play. So either my axle is too long on that side and the axle end is already up against the block or something is wrong there. I fiddled and fiddled and ended up with no side play in the axles. I drove to the exhaust shop with no issues, but Im prepared when I get it back and take things back apart to get her figured that I may have toasted the bearings.

I will tear it apart and fiddle some more, I just needed a small victory, even though it may cost me bearings. Also, at some point its a jump out of the nest and fly situation. Ill break that sombitch and Ill learn from that too. I have done my best with this car, its really quite bitchin. Once I get her cleaned up Ill post some pics.

I never really had end play in it to start so I may end up either shaving a smidge off the non-adjuster side or see if the bearing can be pushed up the axle making it effectively shorter. Then maybe the other side will play nice and everything will be Gucci.

Thanks for the input.......still learnin over here.

Oh, I think Ill try a different gear set. I have a 3:23 chunk and maybe it has buttons that may or may not make life easier....or at least more enlightened.
 
70dart340 said:
I want to know if Andre got a cheese burger.....
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He did not Paul. Poor guy is takin it for another 4 weeks before x rays and nut job. Im looking forward to him being healthy again. He will be able to catch the late summer/fall swim season. He loves to swim.
 
I am trying to wrap my head around this... what you are saying is that when you install the non-adjustable axle, without the adjustable axle in place, there is no play when you tighten the 5 nut flange? Are you sure that the bearing race is seating in the housing? Have you tried swapping sides with the axles (I recall your adjuster axle was on the wrong side anyway)?
 
Yup! It seems the axle is 1/16-1/8 too long. The race maybe isnt in all the way. When I go to pick it up Ill bring a jack and see if I get any wiggle from the drive up there. I did swap sides, I cursed, I scratched my head.....but I have never gotten proper lash on the sombitch so for once it might not be operator error :lol:
 
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