Need advice on Brake line parts and configuration

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1969383S said:
If those are all stainless lines do not be surprised if you have some leaks.

I used the regular steel lines and still had lots of leaks. You just have to back off the nuts and re-tighten them, in some cases several times. Keep some water and shop towels handy first time you put some pressure to them.

I used tubing wrenchs and all the correct tools, thought they were cinched down good, but was not the case! If I do it again with another car someday I will loosen and tighten them several times before adding fluid and attempting to bleed them! No harm as all my leaks did not touch fresh paint!

Looking good!!!!!
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Thanks! :supz:
I will heed your advice and learn from your experience :thumblef: I couple more pictures while I wait for the Adj. prop valve and Parking cables to arrive (tomorrow).

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Looks good!!

Lots of pratical experience! Plenty of mistakes, learning from them is the key.
 
Very nice booster.. What type and where did you get it? Please advise, Thanks.
 
Caxey1 said:
Very nice booster.. What type and where did you get it? Please advise, Thanks.
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Caxey, I think you are referring to my master Cylinder (I'm not running a power booster)
It's a Raybestos Master cylinder (#MC36406) 15/16 bore.
 
abodyjoe said:
Use the two piece line you already have (cheaper that way). Just put a Flare union in. Had the same issue and that's what fine lines sent us.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...-16-3-8-24-inverted-1-card-blu-3c/22190079-P#
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Thanks Joe...
Do you recall the fitting sizes on the short section of the 2pc. rear you received from fine lines? Mine came with a 3/16 fitting on one end and a 1/4 on the other. The port on the block is tapped for the 3/16 end which means the 1/4 end has to join with the long section..

The Long section has a 3/16 fitting on it so the union would have to be 3/16 x 1/4 to join the sections.

Was this the same for you?

AlV
 
Gahh! This is kind of ridiculous and frustrating.

I received the adjustable valve yesterday. It's a unit from "Right Stuff" braking, I bought it through Inline Tube since I was ordering the P-Brake hardware anyway.

The P-valve came with 2 - 3/16th adapters but as stated in my previous post, the short section of the front rear line came with a 3/16 fitting on one end and a 1/4 on the other. So I bought a 1/8mnpt x 1/4 adapter from advance, but it doesn't fit in the P-valve bore which is also a 1/8 mnpt. I'm not sure why, but I am stepping away from this nonsense for now before do something silly. I'll swing by the local advance and rummage through their fittings again but this time I'll bring the P-vale to dry fit.

In this pic you can see the pieces laid out (The combo block is there for illustration only). you'll notice the fittings on the short section. The port on the block is tapped for the 3/16 end which means the 1/4 end has to join with the P-Valve. In the second pic you see a picture of the adapter I bought which I thought should have worked.

Next to the P-Valve you see the 1/8npt x 3/16 and the 1/8npt x 1/4 side by side.

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abodyjoe said:
Man I don't remember. It was a few years ago. It's a friends 68 dart
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That's cool.
After some digging I found out:

* The adjustable prop valve is tapped for metric M8 (1 0) which is why the 1/8 not didn't work.

* The short section with the 1/4 in fitting is correct for the input of the factory hold off.

I'm going to either track down the fitting, the original hold off, or flare in a 3/16 fitting.

What a pain in the ***.
 
AlV said:
That's cool.
After some digging I found out:

* The adjustable prop valve is tapped for metric M8 (1 0) which is why the 1/8 not didn't work.

* The short section with the 1/4 in fitting is correct for the input of the factory hold off.

I'm going to either track down the fitting, the original hold off, or flare in a 3/16 fitting.

What a pain in the ***.
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Sorry it is going that way. Damn Metric stuff.

In-line tubes has the orginal hold off and is what I used. It works fine but I certainly thought having some adjustability would be better.
 
1969383S said:
Sorry it is going that way. Damn Metric stuff.

In-line tubes has the orginal hold off and is what I used. It works fine but I certainly thought having some adjustability would be better.
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lol no worries Gerald. it's all a learning experience And I don't mind sharing so others don't have to go through it :) I would have thought the valve fabricator would have standardized the fittings based on application.u
 
If you go with the factory style hold off you will also need the mounting strap.

It is just a thin piece of metal with holes to mount to the frame rail. Easily fabricated but needed!
 
PoisonDart74 said:
Metric, really? That's Bull*****!

Good heads up...
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lol, I guess it happens when we go after market ;)

I ended up bending up another short section with 3/16 flare at both ends and using the combo valve with a coupling to Join the 2pc front to back section (ala AbodyJoe).

That being said I can also fit the adjustable prop valve at any time. AND I have the original short section with the 1/4 end if I want to go back to the factory standard block and hold off.

I now haz options.

Thanks everyone!
 
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