Need help with clutch linkage parts

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Chained_360

Chained_360

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So last weekend I picked up an A833OD for a steal price, and I'm planning on putting it into my '68 notch (360/904) over the winter. I'm already aware of what I need for the flywheel, clutch, and driveshaft, but I'm a little lost on the clutch linkages and what will need to be done there.

I know that the factory clutch setup was a series of mechanical linkages (?), with a Z bar going between the frame rail and the tranny. What I don't know is which parts these are, how many there are, and especially how to install and adjust them. One of my questions is if I purchase a hydraulic clutch kit, will it be easier than going with the factory mechanical route? I'm wondering because the car is a factory automatic vehicle and I'll have to cut and weld no matter what. I figure that if it'll be easier to install a hydraulic clutch kit, then I'll probably do that, Unless the factory mechanical route will be significantly cheaper. I've looked at hydraulic clutch kits for about $400.
 
OK if you go mechanical, the stock Z-Bar should clear them fine. Some headers require a mini starter, typically a late 80's truck starter fit s the bill.

There is a site that escapes my memory that you can down load the factory manual from that will show you everything you need and where it goes. Being an OD trans I know the bell housing is specific to them, something about he bearing retainer diameter.
 
You can go over to mymopar.com and they have a bunch of service manuals to download for free in their reference section

Also brewers performance has what ever parts you need and the knowledge to back it up
 
2nd Brewers. I must have $5-7 hunnert bucks or more in linkages and z bars, covers and inspection plates, boots, clips, hardware etc. etc. etc. from them. They have just about all of it though.

as for linkages there is one from your pedal assy to the z bar, and one from the z bar to the clutch pivot fork. Then there are all the little clips and washers that hold them together. 1 rubber boot on each end (firewall and bell house) You'll need a sheetmetal floor hump, Hopefully you got the shifter and shift linkages with the tranny, but if not you'll need 'em too.

I read a few threads about hydraulic clutches on this site when I was doing mine, but decided to go stock. A LOT of guys have tried to go hyd, and constantly are fooling with it, tuning it and generally farting around with the hyd set up. The stock system isn't sexy, but it works.

Good luck with it. Manuals are where its at!
 
i just did a manual swap on my 68 fastback. real easy! do you have the pedal assembly? other than that, ValiantOne is right about only one rod going from the oedal to the z bar and one from the z bar to the clutch fork. The holes are already there to mount the z bar and for the pedal to z bar rod, most likely have a grommet in them so unless someone already did punch them out, just remove them. also did you get the bellhousing? if your car was originally column shift, you may want to get a 4 speed column for a cleaner look. Also youll need a new driveshaft.
 
Frame pivot, pedal set, pivot for bell, all the bits and pieces. Not a cheap swap, just going through it on my dart. It was an original stick car so everything was already in place but lots of little stuff that adds up fast. Good luck. Stick cars are fun, have boots, clips and spring from arm to zbar left and I am done. Other than shifter (v-gate)
 
Wow, it sounds like installing the orginal style mechanical clutch isn't rocket surgery. Many people have told me that this swap will be spendy, but I am trying to make it as cheap as possible. Apparently, the 65-71 Dodge pickups used hydraulic clutches and I can get at least a slave cylinder for about $25. At that point I just need a master and a pedal, and everything else is fairly straightforward (at least with the clutch). I don't have pedals yet, I just got the transmission last weekend, and yes, the car is a column shift. I'll probably just pull the shifter out of the column for now because my column shift column is free and already in the car :lol:. Since both setups seem simple enough, at this point its just a matter of which one is cheaper.

Also, does anyone need an aluminum slant 6 bellhousing (with the larger bearing retainer)? That's what the tranny came with, and I need a smallblock bellhousing. Thank you guys for your help!
 
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