Need some electrical help with my ‘68 Plymouth Valiant 100

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I ended up still getting the original FSM for 19 bucks on eBay.
Good for you! I do the same. I hawk ebay for old books, manuals and NOS engine and electrical parts, because nothing is made in USA anymore and the quality is questionable at best. With parts, I look for brands like Echlin (NAPA), Michigan, Sealed Power, TRW, Pacific, Hastings and on and on. The box has to be old and yellowed and say "MADE IN USA" before I pull the trigger. lol
 
I always try to get first edition PRINTED manuals. By the time they get on PDF format, they have been through lots of revisions, which sometimes is a good thing, but also a lot of times, information gets left out, consolidated, or it's just plain wrong. Maybe it's just me bein old fashioned. I like a BOOK that doesn't have batteries and the screen will not go down on
I get it. I have my dad's original FSM from when he bought his / my Dart

I just find the posable searchability of a PDF to be helpful and if I need something pri red I can do that.
 
Good for you! I do the same. I hawk ebay for old books, manuals and NOS engine and electrical parts, because nothing is made in USA anymore and the quality is questionable at best. With parts, I look for brands like Echlin (NAPA), Michigan, Sealed Power, TRW, Pacific, Hastings and on and on. The box has to be old and yellowed and say "MADE IN USA" before I pull the trigger. lol
That is good to know! Thanks for mentioning these brands I’m going to reference this for my parts. My uncle is shipping me an alternator he got from a duster or possibly a vailant. He said it should work in my car, but I’m not totally sure on it. I gotta get a regulator too. Would you say rock auto, classic industries and summit are the best place for parts online?
 
I get it. I have my dad's original FSM from when he bought his / my Dart

I just find the posable searchability of a PDF to be helpful and if I need something pri red I can do that.
Absolutely. I wasn't saying NOT to get the PDF. They're certainly useful. Just be aware, that the information in the PDF and an original first edition manual "may not" be the same.
 
The first thing I would do is unplug all three bulk heads connectors at the firewall. Clean them with contact cleaner , Put Dielectric grease on them and plug them back in. Also add a ground from the negative terminal to the body. The large positive wire coming from the battery going to the bulk head has a short extension near the firewall called a fusible link. They get corroded inside and at times barely make contact. If you can stretch it at all the fuse wire inside is no good. Its a start .
Sorry this is a dumb question, but how would I add a ground from the negative terminal of the body exactly? Here is a photo of the bulk heads(?)

IMG_1501.jpeg
 
That is good to know! Thanks for mentioning these brands I’m going to reference this for my parts. My uncle is shipping me an alternator he got from a duster or possibly a vailant. He said it should work in my car, but I’m not totally sure on it. I gotta get a regulator too. Would you say rock auto, classic industries and summit are the best place for parts online?
Your car "probably" has the round back alternator with the single field. I would recommend going to the later (1970 I THINK?) square back dual field alternator. I think these guys will agree with that. Just know that with the dual field, the one small wire from the old alternator will attack to one field (doesn't matter which) and theo other field gets grounded. I made this upgrade on my 64 and it charges better and more stable. But be advised, don't go "crazy" with the alternator amperage. I wouldn't recommend going any father than maybe a 50 amp unit. I think mine is like a 37? I cannot remember. It's been awhile ago. But they will probably try to give you a 60 or 70 amp unit. Don't do "THAT".
 
Read my post no.8
Ah yes! I remember this response now but I’ve been getting so overloaded with info that I’ve lost track of the replies. Just screenshotted it to easily refer back to because I am gonna need it tomorrow haha. Thanks for writing that all up, very easy to understand.
 
Don't worry about returning it- if you're like me, I prefer to have an actual hardcopy manual sitting in front of me- dog eared pages with greasy thumbprints and all. The digital copies are nice, and sometimes are our only option; but nothing beats a "book on the shelf" for me.
i ended up snagging it still
 
So the red arrows are showing where the leak is coming from. I wish I could record it to show a video but it is bubbling out from that crack. The blue arrows are just pointing out some of the leakage that can be seen. Is this where the thermostat housing is? I don’t really know where that is located.

View attachment 1716330828

View attachment 1716330829

View attachment 1716330830
So it appears you DO have a intake leak, there is a passage there for coolant from the head so if the red arrow is the area of the leak then it is probably leaking at that gasket you could try putting a wrench on the bolts closest to the leak on the intake and see if there loose but if no go then the intake is coming off, not a terrible difficult job but not something you want to necessarily take on at this point. For reference the thermostat housing is bolted to the intake with two bolts directly under the upper rad hose so NOT your leak.
 
Snailgarden, don't get too far ahead of yourself.

One problem at a time.

Before you swap out your alternator be sure you completely understand how they work.

This is what you have now




This is the newer style



Be sure you COMPLETELY understand the differences.

There is no reason to change any parts till you KNOW the part is bad.

Pull the existing alternator and find a parts store that can test it.
 
Snailgarden, don't get too far ahead of yourself.

One problem at a time.

Before you swap out your alternator be sure you completely understand how they work.

This is what you have now




This is the newer style



Be sure you COMPLETELY understand the differences.

There is no reason to change any parts till you KNOW the part is bad.

Pull the existing alternator and find a parts store that can test it.

so, trying to do this in order of operation, what the most serious issues are want to get handled asap. Is this probably the top of the list? Also, I am pretty sure the brakes are leaking brake fluid…thinking it’s the rear. When I pulled off the cap, one side is completely gone. I’m going to fill it tomorrow and pump the brakes to see for sure if it’s leaking out the back ones. I’m assuming this is also a pretty major issue that I need to address asap also?
 
Snailgarden, don't get too far ahead of yourself.

One problem at a time.

Before you swap out your alternator be sure you completely understand how they work.

This is what you have now




This is the newer style



Be sure you COMPLETELY understand the differences.

There is no reason to change any parts till you KNOW the part is bad.

Pull the existing alternator and find a parts store that can test it.

Okay thanks for these I’m going to watch them now. So I’m trying to figure out what to address first. Right now the most concerning issues are the newly discovered intake gasket leaking coolant, the rear brakes are leaking pretty sure, and the electrical issues.

When I do address electrical, would it be wise to start with cleaning the fuse box and wire harness and if that doesn’t work then possibly get a new VR, THEN move on to the alternator of the issue persists?
 
In my opinion.

If you are driving the car the brakes are #1

The water leak may or may not be an eminent issue. IF coolant is getting into the oil that would be a bigger issue than just leaking out.

The electrical needs better diagnosis. If the alternator being sent is a direct replacement, swapping that is easy and will rule out the alternator as a cause.

There are a lot of what if's here.

So let us know some of the answers


  1. Are you driving the car.
  2. Is coolant getting into the oil
 
In my opinion.

If you are driving the car the brakes are #1

The water leak may or may not be an eminent issue. IF coolant is getting into the oil that would be a bigger issue than just leaking out.

The electrical needs better diagnosis. If the alternator being sent is a direct replacement, swapping that is easy and will rule out the alternator as a cause.

There are a lot of what if's here.

So let us know some of the answers


  1. Are you driving the car.
  2. Is coolant getting into the oil
I was driving the car, but once I saw the brake fluid and antifreeze are both leaking, I haven’t been driving it anymore.

I’m unsure if coolant is getting into the oil. How could I check that for sure? The car needs an oil change badly and it’s pretty low at the moment, but not bone dry.
 
In order of appearance:

1. Do not buy anything from Classic Industries, unless you own a diamond mine in Botswana.

2. (Yes, I know this is an electrical thread) When you say you have a brake fluid leak, do you mean that you see a puddle, or do you mean that you have observed that brake fluid is missing?
If you have a puddle in the back, then, obviously, you need to replace the line or the bad wheel cylinder before you drive the car on the road.
If you are seeing one half of the master cylinder is low, then you may have a leak somewhere, but you probably have a bad master cylinder.
You said the rear brakes were leaking – If you observed that the rear part of the master cylinder was empty, then that is the FRONT brakes.
When the master cylinder fails, it generally leaks brake fluid out the back, into your carpet.
Sometimes it pumps the fluid from the back into the front, so that the front is high and the back is low.
But if it's the rear reservoir that's empty, then you need to check the FRONT brakes for leaks.

3. You check for water in the oil by looking at the dipstick.
If it is foamy, generally described as a cappuccino-like appearance, then it has water in it, and you can't leave it that way.

– Eric
 
In order of appearance:

1. Do not buy anything from Classic Industries, unless you own a diamond mine in Botswana.

2. (Yes, I know this is an electrical thread) When you say you have a brake fluid leak, do you mean that you see a puddle, or do you mean that you have observed that brake fluid is missing?
If you have a puddle in the back, then, obviously, you need to replace the line or the bad wheel cylinder before you drive the car on the road.
If you are seeing one half of the master cylinder is low, then you may have a leak somewhere, but you probably have a bad master cylinder.
You said the rear brakes were leaking – If you observed that the rear part of the master cylinder was empty, then that is the FRONT brakes.
When the master cylinder fails, it generally leaks brake fluid out the back, into your carpet.
Sometimes it pumps the fluid from the back into the front, so that the front is high and the back is low.
But if it's the rear reservoir that's empty, then you need to check the FRONT brakes for leaks.

3. You check for water in the oil by looking at the dipstick.
If it is foamy, generally described as a cappuccino-like appearance, then it has water in it, and you can't leave it that way.

– Eric
Where is a place you recommend buying good quality parts from?

In the master cylinder, it’s the front compartment that is completely gone, which is why I assumed it was the rear brakes. Also, assumed it was the rear brakes because if it was the front brakes I’d imagine it would be near impossible to stop, but that’s just my guess. I was going to fill the master cylinder back up and pump the brakes to see if it would come leaking out of the back wheels where I could see it. However, I did actually notice that around the master cylinder, it looks like there’s fluid spilling/splattered around the surrounding area of it… could the leak be from that then?

The oil is very dark and there isn’t much on the dip stick, so it’s hard to really tell, but it doesn’t look foamy from what I can see.
 
Where is a place you recommend buying good quality parts from?
Ugh. $64,000 question.

I believe that Halifaxhops here sells ignition parts.

There's a guy out there who's a real character, Craig Studnick, who raided a ton of parts stashes back in the '70s through the '90s and makes the rounds of the auto flea markets – he's got a ton of stuff, all NOS, and his prices are sometimes reasonable.

Personally, I figure out what the original Chrysler part number of what I need is, then watch eBay for something to come up at the right price, which it generally does.
For parts that are probably fine from a modern supplier, or that just won't be available by the time I need them, I usually try RockAuto, which is also good for checking interchanges with aftermarket suppliers (such as Standard), as well as between years and models.


In the master cylinder, it’s the front compartment that is completely gone, which is why I assumed it was the rear brakes.
So... Right you are.

Also, assumed it was the rear brakes because if it was the front brakes I’d imagine it would be near impossible to stop...
Says Isaac Newton and a whole bunch of auto designers.
When the front brakes fail, you find that the rears lock up easily and the car doesn't stop well.
When the rear brakes fail, it seems a bit harder to stop, but if you never drove the car with the brakes working right, you might never notice.

I was going to fill the master cylinder back up and pump the brakes to see if it would come leaking out of the back wheels where I could see it.
Hey, why not?

However, I did actually notice that around the master cylinder, it looks like there’s fluid spilling/splattered around the surrounding area of it… could the leak be from that then?
Hard to say. Old cast iron master cylinders do tend to ooze brake fluid from the cover, and look a little "wet."
If you fill it and pump it up aggressively, and there's a leak somewhere, you should see a drip underneath, and you may even hear it hiss out.
If there's really no leak (including being wet at the bottom of the brake backing plates), then it's probably the master.


The oil is very dark and there isn’t much on the dip stick, so it’s hard to really tell, but it doesn’t look foamy from what I can see.
Yeah, doesn't sound like it. Intake manifold gaskets are a pain in the behind, but they can be done.
Check to be sure it's really antifreeze leaking out, and not just condensation boiling off.
Older antifreeze will taste distinctly sweet. New antifreeze will taste absurdly bitter (reformulated because crayon-eaters used to drink it).

– Eric
 
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I’m unsure if coolant is getting into the oil. How could I check that for sure?
if the oil looks like chocolate milk and or fills itself up (meaning, the dipstick shows at the add mark, then sometime later WITHOUT having added oil it shows at the full mark OR anywhere else above the add mark.) Rust on the dipstick.

are all indicators of coolant getting into the oil.

also white "smoke" out the tail pipe (not gray or black) indicates a lot of moisture in the exhaust system ( think what you get on a cold morning when you start any car up)
 
if the oil looks like chocolate milk and or fills itself up (meaning, the dipstick shows at the add mark, then sometime later WITHOUT having added oil it shows at the full mark OR anywhere else above the add mark.) Rust on the dipstick.

are all indicators of coolant getting into the oil.

also white "smoke" out the tail pipe (not gray or black) indicates a lot of moisture in the exhaust system ( think what you get on a cold morning when you start any car up)
I’ll be on the look out for that, but I have a question; would it be better to get disc brakes on it? I’m just trying to figure out how to go about this new brake problem. I don’t exactly have the money to buy the entire disc brake set because pretty sure it’s like $1000. I guess it would just be better to repair the drums brakes?
 
... would it be better to get disc brakes on it?
First, allow me to point out the obvious fact that you are asking this question in a forum full of people who have spent tens of thousands of dollars installing freshly rebuilt 383s, 440s, and 426 Hemis, and completely re-engineered suspension systems, into what were once, mostly, granny cars.
If you ask, "Should I order another drink?" you'll get a very different answer at the bar than you'll get at the AA meeting.

Second, my answer, which may not be the same as other people's answers:

When starting a car project, it is a good idea to define what you want to get out of it / what you want to do to it / what you want to wind up with in the end, and how much of it you intend to do yourself versus how much you will need to pay someone else to do.
You can do it without considering these things, and your answers may change over months / years / decades, but you need to have a sense of where you want to go and how you intend to get there.

Some people can't do anything, and the one tool they own is a checkbook.
Some people have one thing they can't do. They have no aptitude for electrical, or they can't paint, or upholstery makes them scream and throw things.
Some people do every freakin' thing, and if they can't they learn how and buy the tools for the job.
You need to have a sense of that before you really start anything.

So, are disk brakes better?
Yeah, sure, in an absolute sense, definitely.
They require less maintenance, don't go out of adjustment, are easier to modulate, are less prone to fade with heat (towing downhill on mountain roads, or racing, for instance), and can be used with ABS systems.

Is that really your question?
Or did you really want to ask, "Are disk brakes better for me, in my application, with my kind of driving, with my skill set, and with my financial constraints?"

Of course, only you can answer that.
The easiest, simplest, least physically taxing, cheapest, most conservative thing you can do is to get the brake system you have working properly, drive around with it, and decide whether it makes you happy.
If not, you can do a hell of a lot of reading and asking questions, then collect a fairly large pile of metal, then take a whole lot of stuff apart, then put a whole lot of stuff together, then spend a bunch or time working the bugs out of it, and getting your front/rear balance and your pressure delay correct.

But first, you need to check to see what, if anything, is wrong with your current brakes.
You need to jack up the back of the car, place your jackstands (jack it on the differential and place jackstands on the axle if you want the axle to sit high / on the unibody frame members if you want the axle to hang low), remove the wheels, remove the drums (maybe they'll just slide off, maybe you'll need to use a screwdriver and a brake spoon to back off the adjusters, maybe they'll be rusted to the axle shafts and you'll need a brake drum puller, or just a big sledgehammer), and look at the brakes to see whether they are worn out, whether the adjusters are working (broken cables, frozen screws, etc.), and whether the wheel cylinders are leaking.

Like I said elsewhere, just buy a spring kit and an adjuster kit to have on hand, because they're cheap.
It's also a good idea to get a proper brake spring tool (yard sales are the best source of nearly everything in the universe), because fighting with them like nearly every yahoo on YouTube seems to do is just dumb.
It would be good to have a couple of cans of REAL Brākleen (the stuff that smells sweet). It's not cheap and it goes fast (here again, flea markets and yard sales are your friend – I bought a box of about 15 cans, with broken-off spray nozzles, for ten bucks last month).
[Note that there is some evidence that this stuff could actually be bad for you, in decent quantities, so it's reasonable to minimize skin contact, which none of us ever did back in the "old days"].

Once you know what you've got, and you've seen a bit of what you need to do to fix it, you'll have a better idea of where you want to go with it.

– Eric

Brake spring tools (everyone has his preference):

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And one more thing:

Back in the day, when you used to be able to go to pretty much any junk yard and leave as the sun was going down $30 poorer, with a wheelbarrow full of parts, questions about brake upgrades were fairly straightforward work vs reward.

Now that most of the junked A-bodies have been crushed, it's a much bigger, and more expensive deal to get the parts you need to upgrade or modify your brakes (or anything else), so answers that may have been right twenty or thirty, or forty years ago may no longer apply.

$20 or $30 or $50 and some skinned knuckles for somewhat better braking? Why not?
$1,000? Different story.

- Eric
 
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