New 408 for the Flyfish

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flyfish

flyfish

C8H18+N2O = :-D
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Hi All,

I’ve been building a new 408 stroker for my Barracuda over the past month (very slowly since I only have a few hours per weekend to work on it). I thought I should probably throw a post in here about it. It should be faster than the 410 that blew up 3 years ago (it ran a best of 10.5 @ 126mph, but usually ran 10.7’s)…I’m shooting for 10.4 on a regular basis…and MAYBE a 10.1 on a cool fall evening. Here is what I’m building:

· 360 block (all the usual prep)

· Scat forged 4” crank

· Scat I-beams

· Icon forged pistons with Total Seal file fit rings (~13:1 compression)

· Howards direct lube lifters

· Hughes 264/268 @ 0.05 solid cam, PAC springs

· My old Edelbrocks, stage II ported from Ryan Johnson @ ShadyDell

· Victor intake

· Home built e85 carb (750 ish dp)

This will be in my same car as before (727, 4.10 gears, mufflers, etc.), and street driven/bracket raced as before.

Even at my ridiculously slow pace, I should have this done and in the car by June…only missing the first 4 races of the season.

I’ll upload pictures soon.
 
Sounds great.
I have a 418(340 block) with exact same components. Figuring 12.75 compression with 60 cc head
Run 4.10's as well. Cam will be similar to yours, might go roller. Only difference is I am going to use the new trick flow heads.
Figuring on 10.20's at 3250-3300 pounds. Might run better, but somewhere in that area
Mine is waiting on those heads to be available , so probably a next off season project.
Meantime want to get this stock stroke 360 in the 10's in the car now.
Good luck, sounds fun
 
flyfish said:
Hi All,

I’ve been building a new 408 stroker for my Barracuda over the past month (very slowly since I only have a few hours per weekend to work on it). I thought I should probably throw a post in here about it. It should be faster than the 410 that blew up 3 years ago (it ran a best of 10.5 @ 126mph, but usually ran 10.7’s)…I’m shooting for 10.4 on a regular basis…and MAYBE a 10.1 on a cool fall evening. Here is what I’m building:

· 360 block (all the usual prep)

· Scat forged 4” crank

· Scat I-beams

· Icon forged pistons with Total Seal file fit rings (~13:1 compression)

· Howards direct lube lifters

· Hughes 264/268 @ 0.05 solid cam, PAC springs

· My old Edelbrocks, stage II ported from Ryan Johnson @ ShadyDell

· Victor intake

· Home built e85 carb (750 ish dp)

This will be in my same car as before (727, 4.10 gears, mufflers, etc.), and street driven/bracket raced as before.

Even at my ridiculously slow pace, I should have this done and in the car by June…only missing the first 4 races of the season.

I’ll upload pictures soon.
Click to expand...

Sounds nice,somewhat close to what we just did.If you don't mind what happened to the other engine,how long did it last anything i should be looking for,i'm hoping i can run it 2-3 seasons anyways.
 
scampy said:
Sounds nice,somewhat close to what we just did.If you don't mind what happened to the other engine,how long did it last anything i should be looking for,i'm hoping i can run it 2-3 seasons anyways.
Click to expand...

Here are the 2 threads about it...short version, I broke a rod a few feet before the finish line in the 3rd round of a race...won the race, lost the motor.

I think I’m done for the year….

Finally pulled the motor to view the carnage...

On final autopsy (I don't have the pictures right now), the rod got REALLY hot on the big end, burned the journal, bearing was destroyed, rod snapped....not sure why exactly, but probably some type of bearing failure. I also found this awesome valve a few weeks ago from the light tap of the piston.
IMG_2295[1].JPG
 
Pics of motor stuff. Block
IMG_2309[1].JPG


Scat internals:
IMG_2308[1].JPG



If you can put in spiral locks WITH OUT bleeding, you are the MAN....I can't...
IMG_2349[1].JPG

Bottem end assembled
IMG_2358[1].JPG


IMG_2359[1].JPG


5 thousandths above deck...should be ~13:1 compression.
IMG_2361[1].JPG


The last thing I did was clearance the oil pump...because, you know...why would anything fit like it should from the aftermarket?!? LOL
 
flyfish said:
Unfortunately the crank got burned pretty good. It was going to have to be turned down quite a bit to make it usable, so I just got a new one.
Click to expand...

Burned as.....maybe the failure was oil related. As in a oil starved bearing?
What was you shift rpm with the old eng?
 
o1heavy said:
Little off topic but what size fuel line you using for the E85
Click to expand...
I'm running 1/2 inch line all the way up to the carb, Holley Black pump, and a steel mesh filter (100 micron if I recall correctly).
 
Finally got back to the motor this weekend. I had ordered the wrong timing chain, got the correct one in and then proceeded to have issues getting the old valve springs off. Almost every single one was stuck and would not release....tried smacking the retainers with a rubber mallet, but they would not release. I didn't want to spend another 50 bucks to buy yet another tool to remove valves springs (I have 2), so I did what I should have done in the first place....YOUTUBE to the rescue! A big C-clamp and a socket to go over the retainer, a little pressure (and a very light tap of a hammer for the stubborn ones) and BAM, they released. Then I was able to put my spring compressor on and remove the old springs.

I have to replace the 2 valves on cylinder #3 that hit the piston + new spring cups, seals, springs, shims (if needed), locks and retainers for all. In the midst of this I'm going to check PV clearance and degree the cam.

IMG_2468[1].JPG
 
o1heavy said:
Just curious but what was your best 60
With the old stroker/727
Click to expand...
The old bests are in my sig, 1.43 60', 6.67 1/8th mile, 10.54 @ 126 in the 1/4.

The main differences between the old motor and the new......The old motor was a small solid roller, 248/254 @0.05 with 0.576/0.584 lift and 10.8:1 compression....the new motor has a bigger solid cam 264/268 @0.05 0.621/0.632 lift with 13:1 compression.
 
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