New 5 speed from Tremec TKX

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1200 rpm idle ? What engine and cam ?
451, slightly reground Mini-Express (.652, 272@.050). 8" idle vacuum.
It'll idle a bit lower, maybe 1000-1050, but any load (like the electric fans going to high speed) and it spirals in and dies.

I would have deeper gears for a better SLR with the revs up, but I do more highway driving than stoplight blasts and 60 mph is already just a tick over 3000 rpm. If I do buy a TKX it will be hard to decide which low gear choice is better...
 
Get a pre 65 unit with a 3.09 1st and either convert it to a slip spline or change the driveshaft to a slip yoke.
 
Yes but how much? Seems like for a T-56 you have to remove half the entire trans tunnel to make it fit...

TKO instructions. 6060 is bigger
https://shiftsst.com/pub/media/wysi...MOPAR_A-BODY_TKO_Installation_Manual_Rev0.pdf[/QUOTE]

Just read through this, I like the method they use really not much metal removal just some "stretching" of the tunnel. Hard to tell from pics but @Sublime one 's trans tunnel looks pretty huge in comparison, almost comes up to the dash...
 

Just read through this, I like the method they use really not much metal removal just some "stretching" of the tunnel. Hard to tell from pics but @Sublime one 's trans tunnel looks pretty huge in comparison, almost comes up to the dash...[/QUOTE]
You are correct. The T6 is a beast. I likely could have made the tunnel a bit smaller but at that point I was working in free air space! I did not want to screw with it come time to start fabricating tranny mounts etc. l got me a bit of spare room if you will! I decided to error on side of larger vs to tight. I work alone and often times stuff like that can be a real pain by your self. I had to fabricate tranny mounts etc etc. turned out ok but no question the T60 is huge!
 
Here is a bit better pix of my T60 tunnel. Please note I did not use a kit, I just made it myself. Utilizing a kit would likely make a smaller tighter job? I just didn’t go that way.

7192F81D-F657-4B35-9494-93728005E03C.jpeg
 
Starting line ratio. There are ton of ways to decide what fits you...

JW
Thanx. I'm reconsidering the 3.27 first gear in the TKX transmission for the 2.87. I have the standard 2.66 first gear with 3.55 rear gear in a 3200lbs Duster with a small block stroker making 510 ft;lbs and I can be rolling along at 10-20mph, floor it and all hell brakes loose. I guess that big 1st gear is not ideal with street tires.
 
Is that the same as first gear ?


Your SLR (or overall first gear ratio) is your first gear ratio multiplied by your rear axle ratio.

3.09 X 4.56 = 14.1522

Most guys with clutches don’t real near enough 1st gear because they listen to guys who’ve never run a stick. I’m a bit low with that first gear, so when the Dana goes in I’m going to go with 4.88’s and I’ll still drive it on the street.
 
Your SLR (or overall first gear ratio) is your first gear ratio multiplied by your rear axle ratio.
How do you determine what's the appropriate overall first gear ratio?
3.09 X 4.56 = 14.1522

Most guys with clutches don’t real near enough 1st gear because they listen to guys who’ve never run a stick. I’m a bit low with that first gear, so when the Dana goes in I’m going to go with 4.88’s and I’ll still drive it on the street.
 
Ok ... I understand now.
SLR is just easier to say than 1st.

No... wait... actually it takes longer to say...Hmmmmm.
Lol
 
Ok ... I understand now.
SLR is just easier to say than 1st.

No... wait... actually it takes longer to say...Hmmmmm.
Lol

SLR is just used to talk about first gear and axle ratio together.

T56 is a nice option but dang that is alot of work on the trans tunnel and it always looks a little off to me.
 
Ok ... I understand now.
SLR is just easier to say than 1st.

No... wait... actually it takes longer to say...Hmmmmm.
Lol

1st gear times axle ratio, sometimes you gotta play with both to get the right ratio. In the Mopar Chassis manual it's just called "starting ratio". Also in that book it talks about how auto-trans cars don't need as much gear because of the torque converter so general rule of thumb is 1st gear ratio times axle ratio then times 1.8 for an auto. Just thought that was interesting to mention lol.

If I kept my current 2.94 gears, even with a low 3.27 1st gear in a TKX or T-56 the starting ratio would not be ideal. It sucks now with my 904 but at least with a torque converter I don't have to worry about slipping the clutch all the time from a stop. I do run a deep trans pan and aux cooler btw this converter is some unknown cheap 2600-stall thing that runs loose all the time.
 
How did you decide to

How did you decide to go with 4.88's?


Two reasons.

I need to cross the finish line about 500 RPM more than I am with the 4.56’s. I cross about 6500 and it really needs to be 7000 and 7200 wouldn’t hurt my feelings. And I need more low gear. I can tell that by how the clutch is tuned.

So I got lucky that I need more gear to get the finish line RPM up. Otherwise I’d need a lower 1st gear and I can’t go any lower without a 5 speed of some kind.

And as far as I know, there is yet to be a 5 speed that doesn’t require some cutting of the chassis to get it in there, and I don’t want to do that to a factory 340 day 2 car.

I could maybe look into the Passon 5 speed, but IIRC the first gear in that is pretty tall.
 
I assume you're acquainted with Matthon's FABO thread about his adventures with the A855... and even if you get a good one, it's six grand.


Yeah...I’ve never been known for common sense!!! I’d give one a try IF it had a better selection of gear ratios.

I’d take a chance on getting it to stay in gear or whatever his issue was. I’d be pissed if I had the same issue he did.
 
From what I understand from American Powertrain,the A body still requires extensive floor cutting for the trx tranny. Not with it. IMO
 
From what I understand from American Powertrain,the A body still requires extensive floor cutting for the trx tranny. Not with it. IMO

Well, the shifter part of the tailshaft is a lot taller than an A833 and clearly at least the lower mount will be a lot different. I would personally expect that the upper part of the crossmember would need to be removed and replaced with something else, and at that point you're probably just better off doing the T56 Magnum, its only slightly more expensive and works extremely well and you know it will be supported in one way or another for an extremely long time due to being a relative of the TR6060 camaro/challenger transmission.

I did the T56 Magnum conversion from a 4-speed and covered basically everything:
T56 Magnum Conversion

It's absolutely wonderful, really makes the car a pleasure to cruise around in at any speed and shifts great.
 
i did a quick look at the space needed above the input and output shafts for the T56 and the TKX, it seems the TKX would require significantly less tunnel work...but I'm just looking at pics on the internet so who knows really.
 
i did a quick look at the space needed above the input and output shafts for the T56 and the TKX, it seems the TKX would require significantly less tunnel work...but I'm just looking at pics on the internet so who knows really.

That's my understanding as well based off the installation instructions for a TKO in an A-body and that's basically the same size as the TKX. TKO only requires the tunnel to be sliced and "expanded" in a few areas while looking at @goldduster318 's build thread the T-56 requires pretty much an entirely new trans tunnel which looks to be at least a few inches taller than the factory tunnel. Expanding the factory tunnel sounds like a much easier job to me but idk.

I'm still up in the air about it, hoping someone else gives it a shot in an A-body. Realistically I won't be able to afford to do a 5- or 6-speed swap to my car for another couple years anyway. Hopefully my 904 holds up to at least one more season of track days.
 
are these the instructions you are referring to?
https://shiftsst.com/pub/media/wysi...MOPAR_A-BODY_TKO_Installation_Manual_RevB.pdf

That whole "cover the 4-speed hump with another hump" thing looks really bizarre when it's finished. Yes, the T56 tunnel is a couple inches higher when you are done (mostly due to the ToddRon crossmember because it's very beefy), in the end if you patched your floor back to auto, then did that, and were pickly like me and didn't want to overlap sheet metal, the only thing missing is doing the crossmember center swap, which in my opinion is one of the easier parts. It took me a lot of time to fit and butt-weld the floor pans more than anything else.

72bluNblue did his own version of the 6-speed floor mods.
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
 
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