new lazy lifter....

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Lifters are not exactly high precision items.
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Actually, quite the contrary.
The tightest tolerances in the entire engine.
Which is why there are often problems with them....... since it’s easier to be outside the tolerances when the range of tolerance is so small.

For quiet operation, I’ve seen the best results over the last several years by not using really fast lobe designs, and using the Hylift Johnson/Topline slow bleed lifters(“s” suffix.....A-2011S for the SB Mopar).
 
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solids are not loud. My Ford 312 had them and you could no even hear them on start up. Idle was butter smooth as this Fairlane 500 was a high end sedan back in the day. My 273-4 had them and they were not loud, my 6 has them and they are not even noticeable. If the lifter continues to clatter, take it apart again an replace the metering disk/check valve from another like lifter. No need to replace the lifter body itself. Usually a loud lifter is a hung up check valve as the machining nowadays on a Johnson piston and body are very automated and very precise. I drove a 302 that had a loud 'lifter', it wasnt the lifter it was the flat nosed cam lobe. preload on a mechanical rocker hydro is touching plus ~1/2 turn. Make sure the rocker is good too, not wallowed out on the shaft.
 
PRH said:
Actually, quite the contrary.
The tightest tolerances in the entire engine.
Which is why there are often problems with them....... since it’s easier to be outside the tolerances when the range of tolerance is so small.

For quiet operation, I’ve seen the best results over the last several years by not using really fast lobe designs, and using the Hylift Johnson/Topline slow bleed lifters(“s” suffix.....A-2011S for the SB Mopar).
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Exactly correct. Even with the best hydraulics you can get, a modern, fast lobe just makes the internals unhappy.

I know I've posted this before but I'll do it again just because someone else may read it that hasn't seen it before.

Fast lobes is why I stopped using hydraulic roller lifters. The customer wants all the power of a roller lobe but wants the dead quiet of his low output, daily driver turd. It just doesn't happen.

So we started using hydraulic roller lobes and putting solid roller lifters on them. You lash them at .0015-.0020 cold and run it. You can't hear the lifters when the hood is shut, they run so much better that it's not funny.

Sometimes you can't have both. You esprit her need to use a slower lobe and live with that, or just put a solid in it and live with that.

I know if I had one or two lifters ticking it would drive me wild. I'd personally rather have the solid.
 
Here is one for you.

My 2000 durango had 1 lifter that would tick everytime I started it. Hot, cold or warm, sitting a few minutes or for days.
I put a bottle of lucas engine oil treatment in it and no more tick. Ever.

I put it in my farm equipment also. No more dry starts.
 
yellow rose said:
Exactly correct. Even with the best hydraulics you can get, a modern, fast lobe just makes the internals unhappy.
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My opinion is the new fast lobes of today are hard on valve train. period. Require higher spring rates, and more people are failing at cam break in.
 
318willrun said:
My opinion is the new fast lobes of today are hard on valve train. period. Require higher spring rates, and more people are failing at cam break in.
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And yet we have a couple members that insist that everyone run a fast lobed cam in everything, even an almost stock cruiser. Or it will run like a Chevy.
 
forphorty said:
And yet we have a couple members that insist that everyone run a fast lobed cam in everything, even an almost stock cruiser. Or it will run like a Chevy.
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Yes and it absolutely turns my stomach, because most members buy into it while some of us are in the background trying to tell them they don't need it.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Here is one for you.

My 2000 durango had 1 lifter that would tick everytime I started it. Hot, cold or warm, sitting a few minutes or for days.
I put a bottle of lucas engine oil treatment in it and no more tick. Ever.

I put it in my farm equipment also. No more dry starts.
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I treated my 96 Dakota (3.9 Magnum) with Marvel Mystery Oil. They should call it "Tick-B-Gone"
 
318willrun said:
My opinion is the new fast lobes of today are hard on valve train. period. Require higher spring rates, and more people are failing at cam break in.
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Don't suggest an old school grind like a Crane. You'll be in trouble with the ranks. Back in the day they used duration to make power. Easy on drive train though. We didn't have lifter, spring, and flat lobe issues like we have today.
 
318willrun said:
My opinion is the new fast lobes of today are hard on valve train. period. Require higher spring rates, and more people are failing at cam break in.
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Yup and if you don't think a LOT of these valve train issues are not caused or at least aggravated by these super quick ramps, you got another thing comin.
 
Here’s my take on “needing” to use .904 lobe designs in Mopars.

Most of the Mopar faithful believe their pride and joy is superior to the Ford and Chevy offerings.
Is the only thing that makes them better the use of a .904 lifter??

Cuz....... there sure are a **** ton of good running Chevies out there that seem to be getting it done with cams that function just fine with .842 lifters.

I figure...... if they work good in a Chevy, Pontiac, Buick, Ford....... no reason they wouldn’t work at least as good in a Mopar.

Are there instances where using a lobe design for .904 lifters will really pay off? Sure.
But that’s not every single build.
 
PRH said:
Here’s my take on “needing” to use .904 lobe designs in Mopars.

Most of the Mopar faithful believe their pride and joy is superior to the Ford and a Chevy offerings.
Is the only thing that makes them better the use of a .904 lifter??

Cuz....... there sure are a **** ton of good running Chevies out there that seem to be getting it done with cams that function just fine with .842 lifters.

I figure...... if they work good in a Chevy, Pontiac, Buick, Ford....... no reason they wouldn’t work at least as good in a Mopar.

Are there instances where using a lobe design for .904 lifters will really pay off? Sure.
But that’s not every single build.
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Exactly, yet it's like trying to reason with a democrat telling them that.
 
mullinax95 said:
Hydraulic lifters are junky now days. I've had trouble with them on two different engines.
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If you buy cheap ones they are. I put pro magnum comp cams lifters in my last build, a little more expensive but they use new technology and work well
 
A buddy put regular comps in his 440 and has replaced a couple. The engine shop said they were having some issues with them. Comp seems to be worse than others. Where's the old TRW's. LOL
 
Keep in mind that for USA made Mopar hyd flat tappet lifters, they all come from only a couple of suppliers........ no matter whose name is on the box.

It might be down to one supplier now.

Used to be Hylift Johnson, Eaton, Stanadyne.
Stanadyne is no longer making lifters.
Eaton had stopped all flat tappet production for a while, then restarted.
But, it’s not clear their current offerings are made in USA. I believe Eaton bought the Mexican lifter manufacturer Moressa...... and I think that’s where the Eaton flat tappets come from.
I don’t know what the real story is on the “other” Johnson lifters(not Hylift Johnson/Topline).
The other lifter player is Delphi, but afaik they never did anything with Mopar flat lifters.
For a period of time, the MP lifters were made by Precision Engine Parts, which was a subsidiary of Stanadyne.
 
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PRH said:
Keep in mind that for USA made Mopar hyd flat tappet lifters, they all come from only a couple of suppliers........ no matter whose name is on the box.

It might be down to one supplier now.

Used to be Hylift Johnson, Eaton, Stanadyne.
Stanadyne is no longer making lifters.
Eaton had stopped all flat tappet production for a while, then restarted.
But, it’s not clear their current offerings are made in USA. I believe Eaton bought the Mexican lifter manufacturer Moressa...... and I think that’s where the Eaton flat tappets come from.
I don’t know what the real story is on the “other” Johnson lifters(not Hylift Johnson/Topline).
The other lifter player is Delphi, but afaik they never did anything with Mopar flat lifters.
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Morel too.
 
I went though this a little while back with oregon cam and they assured me Johnson lifters are still USA made but they have no idea about anything else. I got a box of epw lifters from them and raised an eyebrow but they are supposed to be 100% made in the USA johnson lifters,it was cheaper for them to buy from epw. I cannot keep track anymore and just said screw it I'm using solids from here out.
 
If Isky did they do not anymore,they partnered with johnson to make some new ones.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Pretty dang positive, yeah.
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I see only one part number for flat tappets on their website.
GM .842 only.
Doesn’t say if it’s a hyd or a solid.

The fact that they all come from one or two places doesn’t necessarily mean they’re all the “same”.
Different vendors can have them made to their own specs....... so a set from Isky may not be the same thing you get from Lunati.

I kinda feel like the place that makes them should have a decent handle on what works best, so if you get the manufacturer branded pieces(like Hylift Johnson), you’re getting their version.
 
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