That was funny!Still cant figure out how a post on headers turns into a F-You thread ?
I don't like pickles on my chicken sandwiches...
**** YOU ! I HOPE YOU GET HIT BY A TRUCK !
These ARH headers do look great, and the price does make you take a deep breath! However, since I'm running W2 heads on my engine it appears I can't use these, unless there's an adapter plate that will work with them.
As you get into that quality & price I think I would go with Mark Leelchock of Performance welding in Forstell Ca. He is by far the BEST when it comes to SBM or any Mopar for that matter !
Mark does not build headers anymore.As you get into that quality & price I think I would go with Mark Leelchock of Performance welding in Forstell Ca. He is by far the BEST when it comes to SBM or any Mopar for that matter !
doh!!! that's that thenMark does not build headers anymore.
@ratty dart 340
The internet is a wonderful thing. Go to the manufacturers website and look up the product you have.
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Even has a fit button to select POWER STEERING... You have the first set of headers in the link is my guess 78050
For whatever reason I'm going to mention this. @Dan the man
If the smaller tubes were so much better at scavanging, why is it not uncommon to see larger tube headers create more TQ/HP than a smaller tube down low on a 300hp SB? That header test on a crate motor showed that. Kind of contrary to what you've heard.
Now all this thread needs is for someone to scream about how headers are a waste on a 300hp engine for xx hp gain... Then this shitshow will be complete.
Pick your parts, pay your money.
duh, I get it. Doug’s doesn’t make bigger ones. These were fine on my old motor.
TTI does make bigger ones, but they are far from optimal power wise. They are a compromise, I find it hard to justify them, but…not much else out there that fits my needs…good power, ground clearance, trailer loading,
Yes one of those bolts. I I removed it, I would have enough space, but I would be missing a steering box bolt which seems important.One of the bolts on the steering box?
I’ve ground down the boot and yet still needed to dent the header. Which denting it is T as bad as you may think it would be.
Yes one of those bolts. I I removed it, I would have enough space, but I would be missing a steering box bolt which seems important.
Ok sounds good. I can see where the previous owner of these headers hammered on them to clear it. ThanksYep, you can cut that head height in half for sure or grind it away after you tighten it down. I had this issue with small block Hooker headers.
Yes sir, but the website doesn't describe the fitment, or the experience you guys have with installation & performance, and say driving down the road and grinding the headers. One guy on here was saying his blackjack header installation was much worse than previous header installations. What the saleman says and what the user experiences often vary.@ratty dart 340
The internet is a wonderful thing. Go to the manufacturers website and look up the product you have.
Pick your parts, pay your money.
I had to fix a coolant leak and replace pulleys on my 73 road runner. I decided to put headers on my car while it was in my grandfather's shop.Uh, on an A-body the super comps DO go below the steering link, and have a removable slip tube. On B/E bodies they stay above the steering link.
..."hooker 5303 1 7/8 slip tubes for A and E body small blocks..."...Hooker made two different sized super comp headers, 5204 with 1 3/4 tubes and 5303 which was the "race header" with 1 7/8 tubes. The 5204 is a fully welded together header, where as the 5303 has slip fit collectors/tubes and once you cut the flanges can be installed in three pieces in the car.