New Small Block Headers
- Thread starter Rocket
- Start date
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mopardude318
Well-Known Member
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Last edited:
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
…
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
currently, they only offer standard head headers. In 2 sizes.
1 3/4, and 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 step…which is what I bought.
I got a 10% discount being ex military, and I am selling my current headers, so all that helps a little bit. But still are pricy, no doubt.
EdsWelding
Well-Known Member
As you get into that quality & price I think I would go with Mark Leelchock of Performance welding in Forstell Ca. He is by far the BEST when it comes to SBM or any Mopar for that matter !
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Not sure about that. ARH has an outstanding rep.
they make every header on Copo, Drag pack and the Cobra Jet.
everybody I have talked to who has stuff they have done is super happy.
ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
Mark does not build headers anymore.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
doh!!! that's that then
@ratty dart 340
The internet is a wonderful thing. Go to the manufacturers website and look up the product you have.
Even has a fit button to select POWER STEERING... You have the first set of headers in the link is my guess 78050
For whatever reason I'm going to mention this. @Dan the man
If the smaller tubes were so much better at scavanging, why is it not uncommon to see larger tube headers create more TQ/HP than a smaller tube down low on a 300hp SB? That header test on a crate motor showed that. Kind of contrary to what you've heard.
Now all this thread needs is for someone to scream about how headers are a waste on a 300hp engine for xx hp gain... Then this shitshow will be complete.
Pick your parts, pay your money.
The internet is a wonderful thing. Go to the manufacturers website and look up the product you have.
Even has a fit button to select POWER STEERING... You have the first set of headers in the link is my guess 78050
For whatever reason I'm going to mention this. @Dan the man
If the smaller tubes were so much better at scavanging, why is it not uncommon to see larger tube headers create more TQ/HP than a smaller tube down low on a 300hp SB? That header test on a crate motor showed that. Kind of contrary to what you've heard.
Now all this thread needs is for someone to scream about how headers are a waste on a 300hp engine for xx hp gain... Then this shitshow will be complete.
Pick your parts, pay your money.
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@crackedback - He don’t know….
ratty dart 340
Well-Known Member
@ratty dart 340
The internet is a wonderful thing. Go to the manufacturers website and look up the product you have.
[/URL]
Even has a fit button to select POWER STEERING... You have the first set of headers in the link is my guess 78050
For whatever reason I'm going to mention this. @Dan the man
If the smaller tubes were so much better at scavanging, why is it not uncommon to see larger tube headers create more TQ/HP than a smaller tube down low on a 300hp SB? That header test on a crate motor showed that. Kind of contrary to what you've heard.
Now all this thread needs is for someone to scream about how headers are a waste on a 300hp engine for xx hp gain... Then this shitshow will be complete.
Pick your parts, pay your money.
Thank you very much. For some reason I could not find that site. I guess I really don’t know the internet…
mopar65
Well-Known Member
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B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Finally was able to get a ship date from ARC, was supposed to of had them before Christmas. Now they will be shipped the day I get back from vacation, Jan 25th.
didn’t want them coming while I was out of the country, they will get built 2nd week of January now, will work out perfect.
didn’t want them coming while I was out of the country, they will get built 2nd week of January now, will work out perfect.
ratty dart 340
Well-Known Member
finally got the headers in, however one power steering bolt is still in the way. So I can’t like everything up. Would it be fine to run 2 of 3 bolts for the power steering bracket or should I grind down the bolt head?
One of the bolts on the steering box?
I’ve ground down the boot and yet still needed to dent the header. Which denting it is T as bad as you may think it would be.
I’ve ground down the boot and yet still needed to dent the header. Which denting it is T as bad as you may think it would be.
ratty dart 340
Well-Known Member
Yes one of those bolts. I I removed it, I would have enough space, but I would be missing a steering box bolt which seems important.
ratty dart 340
Well-Known Member
Yep, you can cut that head height in half for sure or grind it away after you tighten it down. I had this issue with small block Hooker headers.
ratty dart 340
Well-Known Member
Ok sounds good. I can see where the previous owner of these headers hammered on them to clear it. Thanks
Oh yea, as I said, I ended up doing both.
greymouser7
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Yes sir, but the website doesn't describe the fitment, or the experience you guys have with installation & performance, and say driving down the road and grinding the headers. One guy on here was saying his blackjack header installation was much worse than previous header installations. What the saleman says and what the user experiences often vary.
My Blackjacks were a horrible experience.
greymouser7
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I had to fix a coolant leak and replace pulleys on my 73 road runner. I decided to put headers on my car while it was in my grandfather's shop.
Previous years I (randomly,ignorantly) bought hooker headers ($200 every time) multiple times for my Mopars. I tried to install these used hookers (I believe they were super comp with the removable slip tube) but they interfered with the steering linkage. I used a different set of hookers but had to remove the steering linkage (the center link which attached to the pitman arm) and route one runner (I believe, memory fuzzy) below the steering linakage.
Question:
Did I use an a body set in my installation? (no part numbers seen/witnessed, purchased used) or do they have generic applications?
Do you have part numbers for either?
Does anybody know what hookers fit (or best headers for) FMJ bodies? 73-75 b-bodies, A bodies for anyone reading this years later. Please and thank you!
Also while I am wishing, the header part numbers for W2's in an A body...
THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND CONSIDERATION!!!!!!
from lead69:
..."hooker 5303 1 7/8 slip tubes for A and E body small blocks..."...
Are these only A bodies headers? FMJ's?
To any future newbies considering header installation:
The ones I put into my 73 RR were difficult, but not too bad:
I brought an engine hoist to the front of the car, attached it to the 340 with the engine tilting attachment to the hoist. I was able to rock/tilt the engine left or right once attached.
I don't believe I disconnected the engine mounts, I loosened the bolts that they sat on?.
I did not disconnect the transmission or any of the drive train. I cut the old exhaust off. unbolted the exhaust manifolds, removed them.
One may have come up and out, i think one dropped down. fuzzy memory
I lifted the front of the car onto taller truck jack stands which sit higher than the rear of the car which was on regular car jacks.
this allowed me to work from the underside of the vehicle from ease. I always have a stack of wood on both sides of under the car for jack failure. It will save your life if a jack stand fails, gets knocked over some how. Don't put jack stands on dirt. I have had a friend dump his drink on the ground and the car sank to the dirt instantly. Don't sit your car on cinder blocks, they can shatter.
I used the engine hoist to lift the disconnected (from the bolts the mounts sat on) engine up, and raised the engine until it hit the bottom of the firewall tunnel.
I raised the driver's side header in from below. I am not sure if i did the same on the passenger side but it was much easier. I have power steering on this b body
On the headers I used, I had to disconnect the steering linkage ('Center Link')to the pitman arm. Don't for get to re-install the cotter pins on the castle nuts when you re-install everything.
I believe that I had the steering wheel turned (?Left) all the way before I disconnected the linkage. I DID turn the wheel back some before re installation even though throws everything off a bit. It wasn't hard to pull everything back together.
Studs on the forward/front most exhaust manifold bolt holes helps hold the headers while you fumble around screwing the bolts in. I used bolts (that had a hex allen screw hole inserted into the top of the bolts) for two of the tight exhaust bolts on both sides of the engine. (four bolts total tightened with hex allen keys for the tight fit exhaust bolt locations{tight because it's RIGHT UP ON THE HEADER PIPE, TOO TIGHT}) I recommend PREMIUM exhaust gaskets, some people like copper gaskets in order to help with leaks.
Personally, I think these four allen key bolts are better than just using only studs.
Reassembly was reverse of the disassembly and TTi taught me that if you are installing an exhaust kit, create/begin the installation from the rear of the car which to me was counterintuitive to beginning from the fixed point of the headers under the (Front of the) car.
<LE$$ Buck$> I cannot remember which auto parts store, either autozone or advance auto sells exhaust with bent pieces that are mandrel bent (without ripples) at very cheap prices where someone can piece part their entire exhaust if they want without spending thousands of dollars on a kit. Make sure you clamp the slide-on points of the exhaust or have it welded upon completed assembly in order to avoid breathing carbon monoxide in your ride when stopped, etc.
The header installation was tedious, but not frustrating following that procedure. I changed the starter (to the smaller magnum starter) and installed an oil filter adapter during the installation because I had the room-two birds with one stone.
These are the headers I installed more or less:
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These are the headers that did not fit my 73 road runner:
These are the headers that did not fit my 73 road runner:
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