No oil to rockers but have oil to lifters what rmp to flow shafts with all new stuff

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just got off phone with dave cam bearings are a little offor maybe to much oil aeration of the oil
8 quart oil pan milodon dave said try 7 then 6 quarts
 
When it's running, how much oil should one expect to see coming out of the shafts ??

Sorry little off post topic , but curious, as I will be firing mine this weekend for the first time..
 
The bust it of and run hell out of it. If somethin really aint gettin oil, you'll find out what it is purdy quick.
 
just got off phone with dave cam bearings are a little offor maybe to much oil aeration of the oil
8 quart oil pan milodon dave said try 7 then 6 quarts

I put only enough oil in when using a Milodon pan to be at the ADD LINE only on the dip stick.
 
I think you're fine. Have someone turn the priming shaft and you rotate the engine. It doesn't send much oil up top only because of the limited crankshaft degrees that allow for it. I like .010 on my rockers but as I said - if you have the same pressure running vs by hand - you have it when it's running and you have the volume the engineers designed in assuming the bearings are in right.
 
have two car's 70 dart 71 duster factory show car

So its still fck'd up then? That suxxx, I would have for sure been on a rampage to get it fixed. That engine would have been out of the car immediately when I could not have found the problem, torn apart, inspected and put back together already!

This here is a great example of a good reason to run your engines on the dyno or at least out of the car on a break in stand. Would be worth the $500.00 for sure.

I am very curious what you will find out that caused this problem for you.
 
did dyno with the warm up ,three pass could not hear much then, in control room with motor in dyno room, could only hear motor with headers revving out. did not hear anything really at that time 497 hp 511 tor
 
did dyno with the warm up ,three pass could not hear much then, in control room with motor in dyno room, could only hear motor with headers revving out. did not hear anything really at that time 497 hp 511 tor

First off I would never use that Dyno guy ever again. Anyone who has ran a Dyno for any length of time would have noticed that noise and shut it down immediately, even with open exhaust.

If you ran that motor on the Dyno and made pulls I don't see how it is still together with no oil to the rockers. It would have came apart scattered all over the room!
If it did not have oil to the top and it for some reason stay together you would have serious SCORTCH/BURN coloring on all contact points, pushrod tips, rocker adjusters and the rollers along with the valve stems. The rocker shafts themselves would have evidence of no oil "Scoring/gall marks"

You sure your spring pockets are cut deep enough and set up correctly for your camshaft so that you are not binding the springs when the valve is at full lift?

If there is no evidence of any non oiling of the top end from what I explained above. I say your heads were not set up correctly and that is the noise your hearing. What kind of cam? Flat tappet, roller? Solid or Hyd? Lift?

If the pictures you posted of the rocker gear are after the Dyno pulls I say your getting oil to the top end without a doubt!
 
Eddy heads are only good for about .550 lift out of the box. If you did not tell Hughes you were going bigger or changed your rockers to 1.6's instead of 1.5's this may be your problem.

How big is your camshaft????
 
hughes stuff,eddy heads super prep, roller cam ,shafts rockers ,hold downs ,bee hives springs ,retro rollers lifters, manton cup stile push rods, [blue printed oil pump, p.o.p] meldon pan 936, pick up,
1.6 hughes rockers, hughes cam 242 246 @50. lobe separation 110
107c valve lift w 1.6 intake 589 ex 584
yes there is some oil for sure .but not to the point where oil splatter inside valve cover! prime oil 90 plus pressure. oil flow to shafts when line up by hand
after running motor 90plus pressure pull valve covers.you can see oil at the push rods and cup adjuster but dry in the top of the valve covers, too dry, I have retro fit roller lifters ,when primed they show good oiling from lifter gallery's. this noise sounds to me like the cross bars that hold the roller lifter together are in need of lots of oil to be quiet ,dry inside top of the valve covers after running the motor, is one sign, of more oil needed .the heads have nice oiling valley's for the oil to flow to the crossbars but seems to be too dry, only flows well from the rocker shafts.when primed by hand
 
hughes stuff,eddy heads super prep, roller cam ,shafts rockers ,hold downs ,bee hives springs ,retro rollers lifters, manton cup stile push rods, [blue printed oil pump, p.o.p] meldon pan 936, pick up,
1.6 hughes rockers, hughes cam 242 246 @50. lobe separation 110
107c valve lift w 1.6 intake 589 ex 584
yes there is some oil for sure .but not to the point where oil splatter inside valve cover! prime oil 90 plus pressure. oil flow to shafts when line up by hand
after running motor 90plus pressure pull valve covers.you can see oil at the push rods and cup adjuster but dry in the top of the valve covers, too dry, I have retro fit roller lifters ,when primed they show good oiling from lifter gallery's. this noise sounds to me like the cross bars that hold the roller lifter together are in need of lots of oil to be quiet ,dry inside top of the valve covers after running the motor, is one sign, of more oil needed .the heads have nice oiling valley's for the oil to flow to the crossbars but seems to be too dry, only flows well from the rocker shafts.when primed by hand

Don't matter if it is Hughes stuff or not. They make a TON of mistakes and I am not even joking. Ive said this before they screwed up my friends heads real bad and almost cost him the engine on the dyno. The operator caught the mistake right away and shut it down. The engine was torn down and fixed at the cost of my Friend.......... to the tune of $700.00 for dyno time and gaskets. Hughes could have cared less.

I don't buy anything from Hughes except Rocker Arms and pidley little stuff. I will never buy anything major from them for these reasons.

Also how the shafts oil you are not going to see any splash all over the valve covers unless you wind that sucker up way high. Run it with the valve covers off and you will see what I am talking about. Oil is not going to fling all over the place at all.

Good luck fixing your issue.
 
is the retro fit roller lifters and roller cam my problem. then?
hughes heads where check at the engine builder shop and clearance for push rods, then check again.
 
Ok, I'm new getting into this thread.

The rockers are oiled through the #2 and #4 cam bearings up through the head.

Did anyone verify that the cam bearing holes lined up properly before you assembled the engine? This can be done by straightening an old wire coat hanger and sticking it down the oil passage in the block that goes to the head and look for the wire coming through the cam tunnel (without the cam installed).

When the holes are not perfectly lined up, they call that "winked". We would allow up to 50% of a hole to be "winked" before repacing cam bearings on the block machine lines that I worked on.

Another check may be to remove the rocker shafts and prime the pump with a priming shaft to see if oil is getting up to the shaft. If it is, then you problem is somewhere in the rocker shaft/rocker arm assembly. If it is not, then I would suspect it is in the cam bearings that feed to the rocker arms. You may have to rotate the crank while priming the pump as sometimes the oil holes in the crank that feed to the cam tunnel may need to be lined up with the hole in the top of the bearing tunnel where the oil feed hole goes up to the cam tunnel. Since your engine is already assembled, you may want to start with this test first.

ALWAYS VERIFY YOUR OIL FEED HOLES ARE NOT BLOCKED WITH A WIRE COAT HANGER BEFORE ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE!!! Check all the holes in the top of the main bearings of the block, and the holes to the heads that feed the rocker arms. This advice is a little late for you, but intended for anyone else out there that will be building an engine in the future.
 
Well I listened to the video. I would not run that any more. You Deffinately have a severe problem.

We just got two 440 motors in the shop that were done at hughes engines. One was installed and sounded the same way. The other was never installed and never fired. Both motors were far from being machined and assembled correctly. The one motor the rods were facing the wrong way. The runner the springs were coil binding and pushed the keepers through the retainers. dropped a valve and tapped a piston. Also cracked all the rockers. $4800 in parts and machine work to fix one the other is junk.

Good Luck You have to pull it and start over if you want it to last. Damage is already done.
 
I have to ask......... What Block are you running. Year & is it an LA or Magnum Block?

Listened to the video again and if it was making that sound on the Dyno...... Seriously your operator is as dumb as they come!
 
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