Non-A-body 46re q’s

[go-fish]

Sorry for the non A-body trans question but hopefully the very best Mopar forum will provide some answers.

I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited. It has a 46re in it that is performing poorly and making noise.

Just a few simple questions I’d like to ask for when I eventually go to a shop to have it rebuilt or buy a crate.

It’s a 4x4 so if I order one I assume it will need to be from a 4x4. Is this the case?

I have also heard about some upgrades you can do with 47/48re parts. Anyone know what parts those are? The Jeep forums don’t specify.

Thanks in advance.

 

[RogerRamRod]

You can up the clutch count in the O/D section. I found info on that in one of the diesel forums, don't remember which. Google
To increase clutches within the 3 speed portion, you might need deeper drums, might not, do some research and just be aware. I can't offer much specifics, as I did the upgrade route on a 42rh. I think I got 9 clutches in the or section, no drum needed there. O/D is the same unit between all models of this series, just different clutch counts.
Between 4x2 and 4x4, the trans and Overdrive are the same, but the tail housing is shorter for a 4x4. If you are ordering a complete unit, then yes, You probably need to order a 4x4 unit. If you want to learn something, Rebuild it yourself If you've got the time and patience.
I kick myself for not buying an immaculate 5.9 I saw some years back.

 

[Desoto291hemi]

“Performing poorly and making noise ?”

Exactly what is the performance part,,,,,shifting poorly,,,,or slipping,,,,or slow to engage when first started?

And what kind of noise,,,,,when and what gear ?

Tommy

 

[Scody21]

Home | Transmission Exchange remanufactured transmissions transfr case + kits & parts 1803 NE MLK Blvd Portland, Or 97212 USA

https://www.txchange.com/ TRANSMISSION EXCHANGE CO. America's oldest full line transmission and transfer case remanufacturer and parts supplier. Automatic, Stick and Transfer Case. Premium Quality Remanufacured units + gears, kits, TransGo Shift Kits, Torque Converters, Used Parts and much more

www.txchange.com

I used these guys to rebuild / exchange a 46RE for my 01 Ram 2500. It was a good experience with them and the product that put out is quality. I saw the shop, talked with the foreman and watch them run a transmission on their trans dyno.

 

[volaredon]

I have a couple of vehicles with the 46"rE".
The one on my 96 Dakota isn't slipping a bit but is shifting funny sometimes but not always. . sometimes even when I feather the gas as light as I can, it refuses to shift until 3200 rpm. Sometimes it hits hard when it does shift sometimes not. Sometimes it shifts like I don't have the kickdown attached and is in 3rd by 20,
Sometimes I get into it sorta heavy and it shifts by 2000 rpm, sometimes it really slams 4th, sometimes it doesn't. This it does probably 1/4 of the time and not usually on consecutive times of shifting thru the gears.
It has 255k on it, but was rebuilt when I got the truck 85k ago. Fluid looks like just out of the bottle

I don't drive it every day anymore except for winter the last few years (its 4wd) I drive it occasionally the rest of the year.
I've had to drive it to work all week as I left my other truck to sit at the alignment shop all week until the guy could squeeze it in. Only way I don't have to wait 3 weeks to a month to get it in with him...
Just got that one back yesterday.
I remember the Dakota shifting funny 1 other time in the past, but seems like it acted differently than it has this year. But it was more consistent in how it was shifting that time. That time the spring either broke or fell off on the kickdown at the trans. I haven't gotten around to getting under it recently to see if that might be the case this time....
It wasn't doing what it's doing when I last daily drove it at the end of this past winter, it's started it since then.

 

[go-fish]

“Performing poorly and making noise ?”

Exactly what is the performance part,,,,,shifting poorly,,,,or slipping,,,,or slow to engage when first started?

And what kind of noise,,,,,when and what gear ?

Tommy

Don’s experience below is similar to mine. I also hear a “growl” coming from the bellhousing. If I need a torque converter should I get one with a stall a little over stock like a 2800-3000? Would a stall be beneficial in 4- low type driving or a hindrance?

sometimes even when I feather the gas as light as I can, it refuses to shift until 3200 rpm. Sometimes it hits hard when it does shift sometimes not. Sometimes it shifts like I don't have the kickdown attached and is in 3rd by 20,
Sometimes I get into it sorta heavy and it shifts by 2000 rpm, sometimes it really slams 4th, sometimes it doesn't. This it does probably 1/4 of the time and not usually on consecutive times of shifting thru the gears.

 

[oldkimmer]

Did u check the computer for codes? Unclip the wiring at the trans and clean it and the piece it clips into on the trans. Also they’re bad for the wiring under the truck behind the drivers front wheel and the rocker panel. Good luck 2 ya. Kim

 

[Desoto291hemi]

I understand the problem,,,,,really the symptoms I guess .
My late model driver,,OT brand,,really went haywire a couple of years ago .
It would shift like it was possessed !

I never knew what to expect,,,it was shifting exactly like Volaredon described his .
But I knew it wasn’t a clutch or mechanical related issue .
Because sometimes it would shift like a brand new transmission .
If the clutch packs were bad,,,,they don’t fix themselves .
A bearing doesn’t fix itself,,,,,any hard parts don’t rematerialize into good parts .

I suspected some sticking valves or switches or something .

I’m not a snake oil believer,,,,and I don’t usually trust additives,,,but I had grown desperate .
Mine had been acting worse and worse,,,,,over 60,000 miles,,,,finally it was getting dangerous .
I never knew when to pull out from an intersection,,,it was that bad .
Anyway,,,I tried this product,,,,and did exactly as the directions said,,,the results were immediately realized .
After driving only a few miles,,,,it was much better,,,,and got better still over about the next 150 miles that week of driving .

I couldn’t be more happy,,,,,Trans Tune was the stuff for me .
I can’t guarantee that it will help you,,,,but it definitely works for my problems.
And since your later model transmission is similar to mine ,,it might be worth a try ?
I got mine at Oreillys,,,,I’m sure most places sell it .
Good luck,,,I’m hoping you get some good results with whatever you do .

Tommy

 

[Duster346]

How many miles are on it and has it been overhauled before? Best to check fault codes as was mentioned.

The electronics in these are very failure prone--that includes the output speed sensor, governor solenoid and the governor pressure sensor. The RE transmission makes it's own governor pressure so to speak with the electronics, so it all needs to be functioning correctly. These rely on clean voltage--battery, cables and terminals need to be spotless. It's best to road test with a scan tool to monitor road speed and governor psi.

That takes care of the electronic portion. Now to the mechanical portion. If it has a converter noise, debris/big things in the pan, 2nd gear band adjustment stud buried into the case or is just plain worn out, then it needs to come out to be overhauled. No bottle of trans tune will fix it.

You can get diesel overdrive parts for steel 5 or 6 pinion OD planetaries, and higher OD direct and OD brake clutch counts. Best to buy a complete 47RE or 48RE overdrive extension housing for this.

 

[go-fish]

If it has a converter noise, debris/big things in the pan, 2nd gear band adjustment stud buried into the case or is just plain worn out, then it needs to come out to be overhauled. No bottle of trans tune will fix it.

You can get diesel overdrive parts for steel 5 or 6 pinion OD planetaries, and higher OD direct and OD brake clutch counts. Best to buy a complete 47RE or 48RE overdrive extension housing for this.

Will this friction modifier help with torque converter shudder? If it has torque converter shudder is it simply a tc replacement or is that caused by something upstream?

I am not comfortable doing trans work so I'll be taking it to local shop. Can you give me some advice on what to ask them to do? The application is a 46re in a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9. It has an NP 242 part time 4x4 transfer case on it (swapped from the full time, AWD, TC case).
I'm getting codes read on Tues. and may drop the pan and change the filter Monday to check for debris.

If it needs to be rebuilt I would like to go into the shop sounding somewhat knowledgeable about the upgrades I want. Should I ask them if I can get 47re bands and clutches and put a higher clutch count in it for OD direct and OD brake than original? i've read some do a check valve delete. Is that feasible?

The sonnax valve to allow fluid circulation in park does wonders for these units. Get rid of the chrysler check valve in the cooler line if not already gone, use the old style all felt filter and a deeper pan to let it flow as much fluid as possible and keep the filter off the bottom of the pan so it is not sucking up trash.

I have also found this info so a deep pan sounds legit. Also is Sonnax referring to thier "Sure Cure kit" valve body?


Thanks in advance.

 

[volaredon]

In my case 255 k, bought with trans and t case in the bed, rebuilt by me at the time, 85k ago, when it's on the right mood it still works awesome, as was said bands and clutches don't fix themselves. I don't drive it much anymore anyway, will probably be going away soon because it's so rotted out underneath besides.