Oil Filter Relocation

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wazoo64

wazoo64

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I have decide to give up on the 90 degree adapter and go with a filter relo kit. Anyone have any pics of thier setup? Is there any negatives to the relo kits?
 
i have not used one on mine but they tend to leak on cars that have them stock. it is most likely neglect and just small seepage but just something to be aware of. what one are you looking at? like a high performance one lol or something off some newer mopar?
 
I bought the Milodon stainless steel kit. Would like to see some pics of the line routing and mounting location.
 
I plumbed mine directly into the block so as to not have any adapters to possibly leak. I did it with push-loc fittings which work ok but aren't the easiest to get off. In fact you have to cut the hose to get it off. When I get the new engine done I'm going to switch to braided lines with AN fittings. I can think of no negatives at all. The filter is right out there in the open and easy to get at. No more problem spilling oil onto the header when doing an oil change. Not only does it not leak but it don't even seep whatsoever. I love it. Here's a couple of pics. I have since switched to a different type of hose. The first stuff in the pictures I put on was all I could find at first and I thought it looked ratty. I later found some hose that looks just like fuel line except it's hydraulic hose so it works great and looks much better.
 
that looks really good. is that taped into the same spot as the original finter? if not how do you cap it off?
 
Canton racing also has a high flow multi adjustable billet adapter.

That is what I went with, then rans line a did a remount mount to a spin on filter mount with a standard mopar Fomoco long filter. You can mount it onthe ineer fender as i did or where ever you make room.
 
wazoo64 said:
Thanks for the pics...I dont get the push lock idea...Did you have to drill and tap those fittings?
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Push-lock fittings are barbed fittings. Much like fuel line fittings are except the barbs are really radical and retain the hose themselves. So really they don't need clamps. Once you push the hose on them it's theoretically locked not supposed to come off. It probably wouldn't either but I just put the clamps on as extra precaution and also to make sure they didn't leak at all. The holes are there in the block and the upper is already tapped but has a plug in it from the factory. The lower hole is the oil output from the oil pump but does need tapped. I used 3/8" pipe size fittings because the I.D. was right at 1/2" which is the I.D. of the oil passages. Didn't want any restriction.

tyler_s18 said:
that looks really good. is that taped into the same spot as the original finter? if not how do you cap it off?
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Thanks. Do you see the big bolt in the middle with the fiber washer on it? That's a plug to cap off that hole. If I remember right it's just short a 3/4 fine thread bolt and the fiber washer is an oil plug washer I got out of the parts bin at NAPA. That hole is originally where the bolt retains the filter adapter plate and the filter screws onto. Follow the port from it and you'll see it goes right over to the top fitting which is originally plugged from the factory so all you have to do is take out that plug and install the hose fitting. I could have ran the hose into the large port instead of the other place but it is a much bigger hole and at an odd angle and I would have had to use adapters to mate the 3/8 pipe fitting to it. I thought it alot easier and better looking to use the holes next to each other.
 
[/QUOTE] Thanks. Do you see the big bolt in the middle with the fiber washer on it? That's a plug to cap off that hole. If I remember right it's just short a 3/4 fine thread bolt and the fiber washer is an oil plug washer I got out of the parts bin at NAPA. That hole is originally where the bolt retains the filter adapter plate and the filter screws onto. Follow the port from it and you'll see it goes right over to the top fitting which is originally plugged from the factory so all you have to do is take out that plug and install the hose fitting. I could have ran the hose into the large port instead of the other place but it is a much bigger hole and at an odd angle and I would have had to use adapters to mate the 3/8 pipe fitting to it. I thought it alot easier and better looking to use the holes next to each other.[/QUOTE]
ok that is kinda what i thought just checking lol. i think i might have to do this sometime lol
 
[/quote]
ok that is kinda what i thought just checking lol. i think i might have to do this sometime lol[/quote]

Sure makes it nice and neat. Go with braided lines and AN fittings if you do. The way I did it works fine but is a pain to get apart if you need to.
 
wazoo64 said:
I have decide to give up on the 90 degree adapter and go with a filter relo kit. Anyone have any pics of thier setup? Is there any negatives to the relo kits?
Click to expand...

Wazoo, I haven't seen a post from you before but do you have a large pic of your car, the avatar is too small but holy crap does that car look amazing! BTW I have a remote with dual filters, it came with the car so I don't know anything about it, sorry. Kev
 
Anyone have pics of a remote setup with the adapter plate on the block? It's real tight with TTI's and I am wondering if there is a set up that has worked well. I am trying 1/2 NPT to -8AN adapter but the 90 is still hitting the header.
 
fishy68 said:
I plumbed mine directly into the block so as to not have any adapters to possibly leak. I did it with push-loc fittings which work ok but aren't the easiest to get off. In fact you have to cut the hose to get it off. When I get the new engine done I'm going to switch to braided lines with AN fittings. I can think of no negatives at all. The filter is right out there in the open and easy to get at. No more problem spilling oil onto the header when doing an oil change. Not only does it not leak but it don't even seep whatsoever. I love it. Here's a couple of pics. I have since switched to a different type of hose. The first stuff in the pictures I put on was all I could find at first and I thought it looked ratty. I later found some hose that looks just like fuel line except it's hydraulic hose so it works great and looks much better.
Click to expand...

I am finally getting to this project and need to know which port is outflow and which one is for the inflow. Thanks
 
Fishy has a race like set up with the hose run directly to the block. Is this your set up?
 
Yes I tried to use an adapter with AN fitting but not enough room with the TTI headers so I am just going to plumb right to the block with brass barb fittings as Fishy did.
 
I have a Trans-Dapt kit sitting on the bench at home that I am going to install with the next oil change.

After looking at all the places folks have them mounted and giving my car a once over I have decided to mount it under the car next to the tranny. I have an L bracket that I will weld to the floor for the filter mount. In this location all I need to do is roll the drain pan under the filter and spin it off and put the new one on, no worring about oil dripping on an inner fender or any other part of the car. There is plenty of room so it tucks up out of harms way and plenty of room to route the hoses away from the headers.

I do like the idea of putting the hose directly into the block inplace of the spin on adapter and may go that way.
 
I tried one of the Milodon off the shelf adapters with AN fittings but there just isnt enough room with TTI headers. If someone has a kit that works with TTI on an early A I would love to see it installed. I think the only way to do it with TTI is the direct to block fittings.
 
Hello, I am going to do this on my 69 Plymouth Valiant do you know which hole in the block is the in and the out?

Thanks,
 
redlinegw said:
Hello, I am going to do this on my 69 Plymouth Valiant do you know which hole in the block is the in and the out?

Thanks,
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Here's a picture showing the output to the filter and return (input back into the block). If you wish, you can plug the center hole in the block (3/4 fine thread) and directly above the output you'll see a 3/8" pipe plug that can be used for the return. Also be advised that the output to the filter is not tapped. You will need to tap it to screw a fitting into it. It's a pretty large hole to begin with that requires a 3/8" pipe fitting which is pretty hard to get to fit due to it's real closed proximity to the bellhousing area. For that reason I used an adapter that screws onto where the filter normally goes. If you do it this way look the adapter over real close as mine was pretty rough inside which slows oil flow. I used a carbide bit and sand paper rolls to polish the openings to help the oil flow better. Also look the oil filter mount over real good for internal burrs and sharp edges that can slow oil flow.
 

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I had the plate system and I had to use 2 AN 90's out of the adapter to clear Hooker headers. You have to use a regular short 90 and screw it in first and point it up (or down, whatever works in your case) then you have to buy a LONG leg 90 and screw that in (2 shorts will hit each other and not screw in) and point that in same direction. I used hydraulic hose and industrial 2 piece screw on fittings on each end and mounted the oil filter on the inner fender facing forward. I used a filter with an anti-drain back feature (HP-1 and better brands) to minimize cold start oil delay. put rag under it to change filter EZ clean up. They sell these finned Aluminum heat sinks you can slip on the filter too to make it look a little sleeker, good for a few degrees of oil cooling or a few degrees hotter under the hood, your call.
 
pishta said:
I had the plate system and I had to use 2 AN 90's out of the adapter to clear Hooker headers. You have to use a regular short 90 and screw it in first and point it up (or down, whatever works in your case) then you have to buy a LONG leg 90 and screw that in (2 shorts will hit each other and not screw in) and point that in same direction. I used hydraulic hose and industrial 2 piece screw on fittings on each end and mounted the oil filter on the inner fender facing forward. I used a filter with an anti-drain back feature (HP-1 and better brands) to minimize cold start oil delay. put rag under it to change filter EZ clean up. They sell these finned Aluminum heat sinks you can slip on the filter too to make it look a little sleeker, good for a few degrees of oil cooling or a few degrees hotter under the hood, your call.
Click to expand...

You can also use 2 short NPT to AN adapters and 90* hose ends. Here's a pic of what I used on my new engine
 

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Did you have to drill the block out before you ran the 3/8 npt tap? I am trying to do this in the car and I dont see anyway to drill the block. Thanks for the help.
 
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