Oil slosh

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GimmeDanger

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I had a little fun in the parking lot at work and had my oil light flicker during a hard turn so obviously I'm getting a little air in there, had it happen during hard braking before I fixed my filter adapter leak but my oil level is good (according to the dipstick). Would it be advisable to add .5 over full to prevent air being picked up? How (in) accurate are these things?
Stock 318 in a 71 swinger.
 
My oilpressure will momentarily drop to 0 upon hard braking when the oillevel is near/just below the 'Fill'-mark.
Doesn't happen when it's on 'Full' or slightly above.

You can always take note of the oillevel on the stick, drain the oil and measure the amount drained. Then add with a bit extra until the pressure stays good (which you'll only know when you install an actual oilpressure gauge).
Maybe better option is to add baffles inside the oilpan to control the oil better if you plan 'playing around' more often.
 
Thanks, yeah I do have a mechanical gauge but it dipped and came back up so quickly I didn't see where it bottomed out.
Ha, I normally drive like a granny, just this one time I had the room to get it loose....figures
 
Or add your own baffles if and when the pan is removed. Did this to several slant 6 pans.

IMG_1898.jpg
 
GimmeDanger said:
I had a little fun in the parking lot at work and had my oil light flicker during a hard turn so obviously I'm getting a little air in there, had it happen during hard braking before I fixed my filter adapter leak but my oil level is good (according to the dipstick). Would it be advisable to add .5 over full to prevent air being picked up? How (in) accurate are these things?
Stock 318 in a 71 swinger.
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No, don’t add the sticks are accurate as per the factory. If you want to screw around like that every now and again, the Milodon road race Pan is what you need.
 
I lost two engines, like that but at high rpm. It ain't happening again,lol.
7qt pan, calibrated dipstick, hi-volume pump, modified drainbacks and modified oil delivery passages. I'm good to 7200 at least,now.

Factory gauges now; I never look at em anymore. Except the speedo; I'm not interested in getting any speeding ticket. The tach now, that one I have to watch practically all the time; it has a nasty habit of scooting into the redzone,all too often.lol.
 
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Thanks for the reply, I guess they didn't expect grandma to be getting tail happy on the way to the Piggly wiggly when they put in these pans. Normally i just cruise, I don't think this motor has seen over 3k revs since I've owned it. Those baffles look good darter, if and when, I might consider that.
 
I'm low buck too. I started building a deep pan for my 360., by welding on a sump from one pan onto another pan that I had already cut a hole into for the pick-up I was gonna make..
Well I found out how bad my welding skills where real quick, as I couldn't make that pan not leak,lol. In the end I threw those two wasted pans away and ordered up a Milodon.,lol

Speaking of which
I cracked that pan in three places, during the very first Grass Rally-Cross I entered. They had a little earth berm on the return straight, I guess to keep the speed down.Crap I said, it's just a little berm. Well that little berm launched me into the air, and when the heavy end came down that Milodon was cracked.
Which I discovered as soon as I got back to the shop for inspection.lol.Well I spent hours trying to braze that pan up, then a week later,upon inspection, there it was seeping again. I suck at welding. I finally took it off and to a pro welder, who undid all my best efforts in just minutes, then closed her up. ...... mostly......lol.
I did fab up a nice belly-pan for any possible future events, cuz that was a chitload of fun, and I was of a mind to do that a lot. Alas that was a one-time event, as the organizers never repeated it. IIRC I was only mere seconds off the pace that day, running against prepared cars.
That berm killed a lot of FWDs, tearing off entire strut suspensions. I put my car on the alignment rack on the following Monday, cuz that really was a hard hit. But all was as it should be. After that day, I started hammering over speed bumps........hard ....especially when I see a tuner car crab-crawling over one at something like walking speed,lol. Bam! I hit it with the pipes screaming,and the tires howling, take that loser! lol.
Wait what was this post about again? Oh yeah,,slosh. Get a roadrace pan........and a belly pan to protect it. My pan barely hangs under the K, probably well under an inch, and sure enough I snagged it on that berm. Another thing I did after that event,was to raise the car up a half inch,lol.......low ain't everything.....
3Gs? , Heck I hit that in reverse every time I back out of the carport,lol Ok not really, but that is my normal, drive-it-around-town-nice shift-rpm,with a M/T. But as soon as she's warmed up, and I hit the hiway; I wanna hear those screaming pipes, and feel the jet-fighter acceleration. And I wanna test my rear main-seal. Daymn, that thing just won't stop leaking......Maybe I'll fix it one winter....., but I think I'll wait until the rings need changing......
 
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Ha, those are the stories I look on here for when I don't need tech. Well as luck would have it, It was time to change the oil anyway and I had time to do it today. So drove to work to get it warm and let it drain about a half hour, looks like I got 3-1/2 qts out, but I could see there being .5 missing from cling to the drain pain, filter, and a little spillage. As of now I'm letting the level settle after running it to see where it's at.
So, are we gonna say about 1.5-2 qts remai ning in the motor?
 
Yeah that's with the filter, basically a fraction less than a gallon out, and a gallon in, including priming the filter going in. And then about a half bottle of stp. As of now, itsi dead on the full line, but I'm pretty sure it'll take a bit more before it moves beyond that. Figure I'll see what it takes to move it a hair above full and that'll be my target.
 
GimmeDanger said:
Yeah that's with the filter, basically a fraction less than a gallon out, and a gallon in, including priming the filter going in. And then about a half bottle of stp. As of now, itsi dead on the full line, but I'm pretty sure it'll take a bit more before it moves beyond that. Figure I'll see what it takes to move it a hair above full and that'll be my target.
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Just don't put so much oil into the pan that if the crank gets into the oil it will beat the crap out of it, and turn it into a frothy pastry topping,
 
And that costs not only a few rpm but slower rpm up the scale and horsepower!

Don’t run extra oil in regular cars. A lot of guys add 1 quart to there race rides. Is that OK.... that is debateable...

The best and proper way?
Extra capacity oil pan.

AutoXCuda has worked with Milodon on the road race lane set ups for the small block.
A little pricey but well well worth it!
 
Yeah oil froth is a big concern with bikes, that was my original reason for asking. Just trying to find out where full actually is, seems like it should be a box instead of a line on the dipstick, you got 'full', 'full full', and 'yup, that's full'
I really don't hoon around, I baby the hell out of this car, but on the expressway, even giving 3 car lengths some ahole will make me slam the brakes hard enough to get that light to flicker
 
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Well now you know why im asking! After it settled out I added about a pint and it still kept at the full line, so I'm gonna keep close eye on it.
I do like the idea of adding baffles one day, but by then there could be a 360 under the hood.

Meanwhile I'm going to look into much less controversial things, like should my vac advance be manifold or ported ha!
 
GimmeDanger said:
Well now you know why im asking! After it settled out I added about a pint and it still kept at the full line, so I'm gonna keep close eye on it.
I do like the idea of adding baffles one day, but by then there could be a 360 under the hood.

Meanwhile I'm going to look into much less controversial things, like should my vac advance be manifold or ported ha!
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There is no way the oil pick-up should suck air no matter how hard you brake! I'm thinking the pick-up is too far off the floor, or the pan is dented, or the pick-up is cracked, or some other surprise, like the drive is about to stop driving. In any case I think I would hook the Can to the sparkport and stop thinking about it,lol.
Oh, no, I mean I think I would take the pan off and look.
But before that, I would pull the valve covers off and check to see how much oil is staying in the heads, maybe due to restricted oil-drainbacks.
 
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New valve cover gaskets are on the list since theyre getting weepy and illI definitely poke around and take a good look, though looking in the fill hole it doesn't look sludgy at all.
As for vac advance yeah idI do that but I get no vacuum signal at any throttle position out of the Chinese Carter copy...the PO kept the original, maybe it's worth rebuilding, maybe not.
 
GimmeDanger said:
New valve cover gaskets are on the list since theyre getting weepy and illI definitely poke around and take a good look, though looking in the fill hole it doesn't look sludgy at all.
As for vac advance yeah idI do that but I get no vacuum signal at any throttle position out of the Chinese Carter copy...the PO kept the original, maybe it's worth rebuilding, maybe not.
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Try blowing air thru the sparkport. If you are sure the port is in the right spot, I would just drill it out, about 1/16 should do it; a little smaller if you got.. If your T-port sync is off, it may seem to take a lot of throttle before that port becomes active. But by 1500rpm,in neutral, Ima thinking it should have a good signal on it, If the timing isn't too far advanced.
I bought some nice reusable blue silicone VC gaskets in 2004. They're still on there. Wait, maybe they were orange, I forget,lol.
 
Ha well now the oil light is just on, but my pressure is fine, guess maybe the sender was going out? Coincidentally I was replacing bulbs in the dash, is there something to knock loose back there? If that were the case would it come on or remain off?
 
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