Oil zddp ?

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jimjimjimmy said:
has anyone tried Royal Purple HPS it supposedly has all the right stuff in it .
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Yes. I got it for $8 or $9 a quart on summit. Sometimes they have a special where they throw in an oil filter at the same time when you buy 6qts. I run 20w50 in my 318, like the service manual says.
 
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adriver said:
With all the threads and web pages I've looked at. (Pause and face palm)
I did not know this.
IIRC someone gave a link to a web site that supposedly had zinc listing for oils by brand.
I discounted that because I assumed oil manufactures change things over time.
What you have said about Mobil 1 surprises me since
1. I believe some new cars specify synthetic oil. (I really don't keep up with that.)
2. It was my understanding that zinc has been taken out of oils intended for new cars because of catalytic converters.
Therefore, it does surprise me that any oil intended for new car has zinc it.
Now, that being said, I'm glad to hear it.
I've been running Mobil 1 for 15 years in an daily driven 86 318 with no trouble.
And only in the last few years I've started adding STP just to be "safe" because it has zinc in it.

Here's what I think.
Only high lift cams might cause problems.
Us people with mushy factory cams probably don't have much to worry about.
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I don't believe it's just ANY Mobil 1, but the 15w-50 (racing formula). And you can get it the cheapest at Walmart. Every Walmart carries it. 5 qrts for 27 bucks.
 
70aarcuda said:
Question....How does the right stuff get in the oil?....added at the refinery?,,,,,I don't know..just asking....Or is the zinc crap occur naturally in crude?
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I believe ingrediants are added. I use the ZDDP MAXX. I add it to the 5 qrt oil container of Quaker State Defy (which already has a little more zinc in it). I get the oil at Walmart. 5 quarts for 15 bucks, then add the ZDDP MAXX I get off of ebay.
 
When I think about a tiny container of ZDDP dumped into a valve cover hole and whatever tiny bit of it making it down to the 6, 7, or 8qt pan. Then starting the engine, letting it run long enough for the oil pump to circulate and mix the oil enough to evenly mix in that ZDDP additive and of course carry the rest of it down to the pan.....

Does it sound ridiculous to you yet?

Buy the oil you need. Pour it in, start it, run it.
 
You could also dump the tiny container in first, and wash it down to the pan with the 8 qts of oil, which will also mix it up... :poke:
 
roccodart440 said:
When I think about a tiny container of ZDDP dumped into a valve cover hole and whatever tiny bit of it making it down to the 6, 7, or 8qt pan. Then starting the engine, letting it run long enough for the oil pump to circulate and mix the oil enough to evenly mix in that ZDDP additive and of course carry the rest of it down to the pan.....

Does it sound ridiculous to you yet?

Buy the oil you need. Pour it in, start it, run it.
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that's why only "I" work on my stuff...... LOL
Pay Attention!!!!!!!!!!! Only going to spell it ONCE!
"You pour the tiny container of ZDDP into the oil jug, and shake it, and pour it pre mixed into the engine".....
 
Oil jug? If you don't buy oil in 4 or 5 quart jugs you can always rinse out a gallon milk jug. I have a 6 quart oil measure with a flex spout that works well. Pour in the additive and stir or pour a couple quarts in and then the zddp and add the other 3 quarts. I doubt the cam will go flat or the engine fail if the additive isn't completely mixed right away. No rocket science here.
 
I have been using Mobil 1 High Mileage which has 1200ppm and widely available at Walmart. Also keep an eye on Mobil's website as they always have cash back offers. Got my last two 5 quart jugs for $15 a piece.

Racing oils have higher concentrations but lack any detergent packages so it gets dirty quick and needs to be changed much sooner. Not meant for longevity.
 
Add the little container of zddp into the 5 qt jug....then shake...then pour into engine...not rocket science stuff.....

next time I add it to the 5 qt jug I will take a picture for you .....lol
 
threewood said:
I have been using Mobil 1 High Mileage which has 1200ppm and widely available at Walmart. Also keep an eye on Mobil's website as they always have cash back offers. Got my last two 5 quart jugs for $15 a piece.

Racing oils have higher concentrations but lack any detergent packages so it gets dirty quick and needs to be changed much sooner. Not meant for longevity.
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Not all racing oils. The very best racing engine oils still have the detergents and dispersants etc. I'm not fond of oils with detergents and such. I doubt anyone running at the highest levels of asscar uses an oil with it. Cleaning is one of the functions of oil.
 
I use Lucas 10w30 Hot Rod oil in my truck. 2400 PPM zinc.
 
dgibby said:
Came across this yesterday. Very long and a little be bit of a hard read (to me) but some interesting info. I only read the info on the oil part of it.
MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA
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Just for accuracy, that guy was booted from Speedtalk. His test method is for gear oil, not engine oil. Also, his protocol has been shaky at every best.


I was at a swap meet years ago and some ding-a-ling was doing the same type of test. I walked over with a quart of cheap gear oil I had. It beat all his engine oils because it is a gear oil test. That test was a fraud. 540rat is a fraud.


Just my humble opinion.
 
71scamp78 said:
Is it perfectly ok to use off the shelf oil with a flat tappet cam if I use the zddp additive. Hate to order oil but will if needed. Was going to order some Brad Penn reason I ask I'm getting ready to break a new cam in. I will add cam break in to oil just wondered after that
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i went with the better safe then sorry theroy..:)
i used this for cam break in https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1590

and this for every day use.. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-02007
 
I like Joe Gibbs stuff for cam break-in, after that I use a good oil
and have never added any thing else
 
A "good oil" presumably containing over 1000 ppm and preferably 1200+ of zinc?
That's the whole point of numerous discussions, every year the ZDDP gets reduced in various brands of oil... big spring pressure could be trouble even if you have a name brand with less than 800 ppm...
 
That's why you got to research it, I still run Mystic JT8 and never had a problem, last I checked zinc was over 1300. I do run them hard and I change oil alot, I mean who out there runs there oil 3000 miles between changes unless its a just a daily driver.
 
Anybody got specs for Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20w-50 handy? (silver bottle)
Been running Mobil Delvac 15w-40 with no issues but thinking of switching. Think it's worth the extra coin?
 
KnuckleDuster said:
Anybody got specs for Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20w-50 handy? (silver bottle)
Been running Mobil Delvac 15w-40 with no issues but thinking of switching. Think it's worth the extra coin?
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I have one Duster on VR-1 10w-30. First time using it. Because of other things going on with the car, it's hardly been driven. But, the break in went well and so far so good.
DrCharles said:
A "good oil" presumably containing over 1000 ppm and preferably 1200+ of zinc?
That's the whole point of numerous discussions, every year the ZDDP gets reduced in various brands of oil... big spring pressure could be trouble even if you have a name brand with less than 800 ppm...
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Spring pressure needs to be kept in mind for sure. I never over-kill the spring pressure. But, I really don't ever go past 6000 rpm's...... Although years ago I had a 340 that seen 7k a few times.
 
I know someone posted a great chart with a bunch of different oils and in depth specs including zinc, phospherous, wear protection, etc,etc.. but with all the oil threads over the years, I still can't find it, and not sure how current it was. The formulations seem to change constantly.

Going to bobistheoilguy.com is like trying to find one sentence in a set of encylopedias.
 
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KnuckleDuster said:
I know someone posted a great chart with a bunch of different oils and in depth specs including zinc, phospherous, wear protection, etc,etc.. but with all the oil threads over the years, I still can't find it, and not sure how current it was. The formulations seem to change constantly.

Going to bobistheoilguy.com is like trying to find one sentence in a set of encylopedias.
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Kind of why I just add the zinc (ZDDP Maxx). Then I just use a common oil from Walmart without worry if they "still have the zinc"......
 
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