opinions on hooker headers

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thanks adam,I wouldn't have caught that tip on the milodon pan, you just saved me great misery and anguish,,lol in other words me angry with even angrier wife
 
No problem. I tried 3 sets of headers non of them cleared the pan but the TTIs.
 
5204 is the hooker number for 1 3/4" SC and 5303 for the 1 7/8" Race.

Yes they have coated available.
 
I paid $450.00 for mine thru Mancini Racing. I just checked with Mancini's, $489.95.
 
OK I found what I think will work for my 67 cuda on Mancini.


Comp 66-77 A, B, and E-Body A-engine 1 5/8" x 3" (Ceramic Coated)
Competition Header, 67-82 Mopar A, B, E & F Bodies: 273-360, Tube Size 1.625" O.D. x 34", Collector Size 3" O.D., Collector Length 8", Port Shape: Same As Port, Metallic Ceramic Coating.
$389.95
HKR5901-1

The ones I found on Summit is part 5204 which are 1 3/4 tubing. I guess that's where the horsepower comes in and the extra cost.
 
Here's my .02 on Hooker headers: They suck. They fit like crap, hang too low (I scraped mine REAL BAD the first time I drove my car...) the flanges leak, and they start to rust out while they are being shipped from the factory when they are new. In the end, you'll spend money on the good headers, and the Hookers you just wasted your money on. I have over $1,000 invested in my headers. I didn't want to pay $700 for a set of TTI's, so I bought a set of $375 Hooker Super Comp's, which I hate, and eventually bought the $700 TTI's anyway.
 
I have a set of the #5204 headers on my Dart Sport. No plug wires problems, no ground clearence issues. You cannot run power steering with these headers. the #1 tube will hit the p/steering box. The fit is good, the steering center link has to come apart for both sides to go in. as for performance, I upgraded my whole powertrain pkg. I have ran them with a 3" pipe & crossover, & ultra-flo mufflers, with a open exhaust & 12" collector bolted on, I picked up a tenth. I would have liked to have put the TTI's on it, but didn't have budget for it. But after reading some other threads about them on comparisons, I may have not needed them.

Yep, 5204's are the Super Comps. I replaced some 1& 5/8" Hedmans on my Duster with them; gained .4 seconds with lots of plug wire clearance on 5&7, and easier to change starter. Trade off was having to dump the PS and the Milodon flare out pan. They are great if your mostly dragracing.
 
I have the regular competition hookers (don't remember the part #) on my 68 Cuda and taking them on and off is miserable especially since I have power steering. Once on they clear everything but it's by 1/16" or less in some spots. I have only scraped them once and that's when I had 2 other heavy guys with me. Oh yeah, I put my headers in when I was rebuilding the steering so I had the drag link off so that made it a little easier.

The #5 and 7 plug wires aren't a problem to remedy. Just whack off the straight ends and put 90 degree ends and run them underneath. How hard is it to install 2 spark plug wire ends?? Also run plugs for a newer magnum engine since their 5/8 shank and that gives a little more room.

I blasted off (what hadn't fallen off) the crappy primer they had on them and painted them with VHT and it's been almost 2 yrs. and they haven't rusted yet. Knock on wood.

One odd thing I noticed about them though is the center ports are raised about 1/4" higher than the end ports so their not lined up real well with the head ports, the bolts line up but not the ports??? Next time I have the engine out I think I'll have my buddy that's a welder weld them up and I'll match the ports better. Can't hurt.

Their a poor mans header and with a little persuasion (AKA big hammer and prybar) they work and do make allot more power than stock manifolds. Get TTI's if your not running a full race car and can afford them. I would if I had the money.
 
i have hooker comp headers and i hate them.

im going with TTI step.
 
i have hooker comp headers and i hate them.

im going with TTI step.


I know exactly how you feel!

I went ahead and bought the polished ceramic coated TTIs this morning. I also bought a Mopar mini starter to go along with the headers even though I could have still used the OEM starter. The mini is able to crank motors up to 12:1 compression. Man that thing must be a little beast! LOL!
 
I know exactly how you feel!

I went ahead and bought the polished ceramic coated TTIs this morning. I also bought a Mopar mini starter to go along with the headers even though I could have still used the OEM starter. The mini is able to crank motors up to 12:1 compression. Man that thing must be a little beast! LOL!


The mini starter kicks ***! I installed one of `em a few years ago and will install one in the Dart when that one goes tits-up.

And as for those polished, ceramic coated TTI bad-boys.....
070307_12241-vi.jpg


Pure car ****. Look at `em. LOOK AT `EM!!!!
 
The mini starter kicks ***! I installed one of `em a few years ago and will install one in the Dart when that one goes tits-up.

And as for those polished, ceramic coated TTI bad-boys.....
070307_12241-vi.jpg


Pure car ****. Look at `em. LOOK AT `EM!!!!

OH MY GOSH!!

Man those things shine!

How in the world am I going to install them with scratching them up??

I have had ideas in my mind in order to do it but not sure about my thinking. I thought about wraping them in tape but didn't want to apply the tape directly to the header. Warping them with old t-shirts maybe?
 
I'm thinking of using an old set of bed sheets and just wrapping them tightly with blue painters tape. I'm also going to line the fender wells with blankets and fender covers....

And yeah.... they are Be-Yoo-Ti-Ful! Even using my camera phone they look awesome!
 
im assuming you can use the tti's with the stock oil pan?


Yes, they will clear a stock oil pan. They will hit the edge of a Lakewood scattershield from what I here. An easy fix to just grind a little metal off the shield....
 
Yes, they will clear a stock oil pan. They will hit the edge of a Lakewood scattershield from what I here. An easy fix to just grind a little metal off the shield....

Uhhhhh Ohhhh!

I have a scatter shield but not sure that it is Lakewood or not. I know it's definitely not stock. And I thought I was all in the clear.
 
I've had several sets of Hooker headers, both Comp & Super-Comp. They should call them Crap and Super-Crap. The best place for Hookers are in dumpsters or street corners! My $.02
 
Don't know the part number but all the clearance issues with mine, burnt up the 5 & 7 wires, bottomed out one one of the 1st outings on the left header, beat on both sides and still had clearance issues

Bought a set of TTI's and plan on installing them when the engine goes back in.

Is this for a race car where maximum HP and performance is desired, is it a street/strip car?

I would not recommend the Hookers I had on my car to NO ONE that would be driving on the street

I ended up putting 90 deg boots on the 5 & 7 plugs and going under the header tube to keep from burning the wires

low112.jpg
 
The problem with Hookers must be application dependant because I have a set on my car and they cleared everything without any modifications to anything. My car even has power steering. They can burn up the #5&7 wires but if you run the wires below the tube their fine. That's how I have mine and have no problems. They did bottom out once when I had 2 other real big guys with me and I hid a bad bump too fast. When it's just me and my wife it never has bottomed out. I am running 15" tires on the front so that may help. Also got HD springs outback so the rear also sits a little higher than stock too.
 
I've had several sets of Hooker headers, both Comp & Super-Comp. They should call them Crap and Super-Crap. The best place for Hookers are in dumpsters or street corners! My $.02

Ha, just bought a set of 5303 big boys for 10 bucks! light surface rust, 3/5 tubes crushed at head flange and collector flattened on the bottom from miles of scrapes, but I only needed the flanges and collectors so I think Im still ahead. Pass. side is perfect.
 
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