Over budget 318 build

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CarfinaticII said:
Haha. Nice! :icon_fU:.
With that in mind, would .034 be better? Rather it be right.
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Nah, you're fine where there at .032.

It's the heat in the top of the piston that determines how much Gap you need, more or less.

So everyone knows if you're building a 9 to 1 compression, basically a lower compression Street motor ...you don't need to be on the big end of the Gap, you can run on the small end and be fine cause youre not going to have as high a heat spikes as you would with 10.5 comp or more so high dynamic/cranking. The octane with the lower compression has a lil room to tolerate the the squeeze..where as if you run it raged edge...the piston top is exposed to leanness, occasional inaudable ping. If you had an egt you could see it.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Nah, you're fine where there at .032.

It's the heat in the top of the piston that determines how much Gap you need, more or less.

So everyone knows if you're building a 9 to 1 compression, basically a lower compression Street motor ...you don't need to be on the big end of the Gap, you can run on the small end and be fine cause youre not going to have as high a heat spikes as you would with 10.5 comp or more so high dynamic/cranking. The octane with the lower compression has a lil room to tolerate the the squeeze..where as if you run it raged edge...the piston top is exposed to leanness, occasional inaudable ping. If you had an egt you could see it.
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Well I shouldn’t be left alone in the garage. Haha. I gapped them all to .034. Guess I shoulda checked here but had an hour this morning so I took them out and ground a little more off.
 
Now as far as the oil rings go, just put them in? Checked two of them, they are about .030.
 
If you are going to hit it with nitrous and want to plan now gap the top at 030 and the second at 032 and leave the oil rings alone. If I read it correctly you’ve gapped em at 030 top and 034 second? That’s perfect for a good size shot. What is the skirt clearance set at? The KBs like a little larger than most.
 
I know I keep putting the carriage before the horse here but once you get those heads on and the rocker arms all secured you'll definitely be putting a octagon rod down to the oil pump and with break in oil running it on a drill and turning the crank to line up the cam holes on both sides and seeing plenty of oil flowing out of your rockers long before you ever start this...
 
TT5.9mag said:
If you are going to hit it with nitrous and want to plan now gap the top at 030 and the second at 032 and leave the oil rings alone. If I read it correctly you’ve gapped em at 030 top and 034 second? That’s perfect for a good size shot. What is the skirt clearance set at? The KBs like a little larger than most.
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No.
 
CarfinaticII said:
Well I shouldn’t be left alone in the garage. Haha. I gapped them all to .034. Guess I shoulda checked here but had an hour this morning so I took them out and ground a little more off.
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.002" I wouldn't be worried. lol I think either way wouldda been fine, but "a little more room" will never hurt.
 
TT5.9mag said:
If you are going to hit it with nitrous and want to plan now gap the top at 030 and the second at 032 and leave the oil rings alone. If I read it correctly you’ve gapped em at 030 top and 034 second? That’s perfect for a good size shot. What is the skirt clearance set at? The KBs like a little larger than most.
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I have the top rings set at .034 and all the second rings come in at .023-.024. Leaving the oil rings alone at this point. What is skirt clearance?
 
RammerJammer75 said:
Especially with hypereutectic pistons.
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Right. People get so caught up on the static gap they forget when the pistons get hot, they expand and close the gap up. So running gap is more like the stock cast piston spec.
 
j par said:
I know I keep putting the carriage before the horse here but once you get those heads on and the rocker arms all secured you'll definitely be putting a octagon rod down to the oil pump and with break in oil running it on a drill and turning the crank to line up the cam holes on both sides and seeing plenty of oil flowing out of your rockers long before you ever start this...
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Run that by me again....not trying to be rude.
 
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CarfinaticII said:
I have the top rings set at .034 and all the second rings come in at .023-.024. Leaving the oil rings alone at this point. What is skirt clearance?
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Skirt to cylinder wall should be "whatever" KB says. "I THINK" it's like .0015", I'm not positive. It's on their web site.
 
CarfinaticII said:
Run that by me again....
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remember when you ran your brush through that oil hole from the block that goes down into the cam bearing? And everybody asked that that was clocked correctly so the cam bearing holes line up? As the cam turns to the correct position it allows oil from the block to go through the cam bearing up through the block and through that hole around that rocker shaft hold down and into the rocker shaft and then spills out onto and in the rocker arms...
On engine stand with break in oil everything pretty much ready to go except for the distributor and the intermediate shaft in you slide an octagon shaft with a drill on the end and spend your oil pump. Definitely have a filter on and definitely have the oil pressure plug plugged or engage in on it LOL or you'll have the fountain of youth spring all over the place LOL (ask me how I know..)
My wife is done this with me so many times she knows... She generally runs the drill at a medium pace and I turn the engine slowly with a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt with the plugs out... She'll say "there it is!".. that means she felt the drill speed up a little by itself and sure enough a second later oil starts pumping out The rocker shaft of one side or the other. Then I continued turning while she runs a drill till I get it coming up on the other side...
How the cam has 5 bearings and The rocker shafts have five hold down bolts. Neither the front or the rear or the middle it's the two in between. 1 rocker shaft runs off the number two bearing and one runs after number four bearing..
 
j par said:
remember when you ran your brush through that oil hole from the block that goes down into the cam bearing? And everybody asked that that was clocked correctly so the cam bearing holes line up? As the cam turns to the correct position it allows oil from the block to go through the cam bearing up through the block and through that hole around that rocker shaft hold down and into the rocker shaft and then spills out onto and in the rocker arms...
On engine stand with break in oil everything pretty much ready to go except for the distributor and the intermediate shaft in you slide an octagon shaft with a drill on the end and spend your oil pump. Definitely have a filter on and definitely have the oil pressure plug plugged or engage in on it LOL or you'll have the fountain of youth spring all over the place LOL (ask me how I know..)
My wife is done this with me so many times she knows... She generally runs the drill at a medium pace and I turn the engine slowly with a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt with the plugs out... She'll say "there it is!".. that means she felt the drill speed up a little by itself and sure enough a second later oil starts pumping out The rocker shaft of one side or the other. Then I continued turning while she runs a drill till I get it coming up on the other side...
How the cam has 5 bearings and The rocker shafts have five hold down bolts. Neither the front or the rear or the middle it's the two in between. 1 rocker shaft runs off the number two bearing and one runs after number four bearing..
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Thank you for that! Very good explanation. Obviously I have never done that before and there’s my confusion. I appreciate the help! Least I know not to get the fountain of youth flowin now! Haha. :lol:
 
CB5BB111-7508-4817-B909-F5AC0C22FA50.png

And here is the chart from KB for skirt clearance. No way would I run 0015-0020 and hit it with juice.
 
Hey mate,
Check out my thread, I built a 318 to a similar spec as what your are (kb167, zero decked, alloy heads). I had my machine shop gap the rings for me, I assembled the motor. I used Toyota 4K pushrods (ball and cup) with 273 adjustable rockers. Works mint.

Hi from Aus! 1966 VC Valiant cruiser
 
vc318 said:
Hey mate,
Check out my thread, I built a 318 to a similar spec as what your are (kb167, zero decked, alloy heads). I had my machine shop gap the rings for me, I assembled the motor. I used Toyota 4K pushrods (ball and cup) with 273 adjustable rockers. Works mint.

Hi from Aus! 1966 VC Valiant cruiser
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Cool lookin 66. I’ll look at the thread for sure! Thanks
 
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