Slappy
Well-Known Member
Fans are not mounted with the shroud at all. I bought new high cfm fans and mounted directly to the radiator.
Overheating 360 new engine
- Thread starter Slappy
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I think I responded to your earlier posting showing the shroud. My bad. I’m wondering about the water pump though. What you are running is a mystery. Whenever I read about issues like you’re having I always look at the number of vanes on the impeller. You “may” have an issue with coolant flow, maybe not. I suspect and ask based on what I went through a few years ago with my setup as well as others. Doyou actually know the number of vanes on the impeller?? If you don’t, I would be pulling the pump to verify things vs resorting to pulling the top end apart (yet)
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512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Mounting the fans in that configuration will not help, you really do need the correct fitting shroud. Mother Mopar used them on every car for a reason.
Have you ever removed the hood and drove it? This would address some of your concerns.
150-175 degree under hood component temps is nothing to worry about.
You already have your water pump pulley machined flat on the face, all you have to do is mount the Manual Fan and spacer to it.
Before:
After:
Open it up, let it breathe. Plenty of room and not all crammed together.
Cool, Cool, Cool . . .
Before:
After:
Open it up, let it breathe. Plenty of room and not all crammed together.
Cool, Cool, Cool . . .
Slappy
Well-Known Member
Slappy
Well-Known Member
That’s kind of where I’m at . I have tried a different water pump . I believe it’s 8 vane . Also someone mentioned to modify the water pump which made a big difference for them. I have tried so many different things accept going major like head gasket or pulling engine ect. Folks have been so helpful.
Your plight reminds me of this individual who just about changed everything trying to cool things down. Granted, it is a different animal but, actually the application is even more severe than most cars regardless of power output. In his case after tearing apart things replacing stuff he finally came round to the idea his pump was the culprit.
For your situation it may indeed be something else but if you have the time to read it all it is a good study or relatable:
Runs Hot - Out of Ideas
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
OK, the center 4 cylinders will run hotter than the outer 4. This s why there is a racing mod of drilling and tapping a fitting in the block and running 1/2 inch AN hose to the timing covers water ports.
There are a few other race mods of blocking off the water port from the back of the head and force water flow thru the heads water ports.
There are a few other race mods of blocking off the water port from the back of the head and force water flow thru the heads water ports.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
Slappy, have you tried a CLOSED air filter housing with some expanding Dryer vent hose to suck cold air from under the front bumper? Millions of Cop Car's had this well before the 'Ricky Ricers' found out about CAI.
Both years of the Little Red Express had this, 1978 and 1979.
Both years of the Little Red Express had this, 1978 and 1979.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
I had a BBM I could not get to cool no matter what I did. I finally pulled the brand new Milodon water pump off and found the impeller loose on the shaft alowing the impeller to slip on the shaft. Went back to the stock pump , no more cooling issues.
Slappy
Well-Known Member
I will try it
Slappy
Well-Known Member
I have tried 3 different pumps but I’m going to pull the water pump to confirm the blade configuration
This unfolding is painful to watch.
Like pushing a rickshaw uphill trying to gain momentum.
It's not that complicated, just sayin'.
Like pushing a rickshaw uphill trying to gain momentum.
It's not that complicated, just sayin'.
Slappy
Well-Known Member
I flipped the blades as suggested but didn’t seem to help . The new fans are assembled as you suggested .
Slappy
Well-Known Member
Here’s the deal my friend. I get that it’s not complicated. The only thing I haven’t tried is going back old school fan as suggested by you. I get it but I have these things in stock. Also just because it works on your set up doesn’t mean it will work on mine. I appreciate your help honestly do but at the end of the day your at home thinking about it and I’m at home doing it.
Slappy
Well-Known Member
definitely a good read and good info. I think i will look into the water pump type as well
I'm a lazy back reader. Did you say you've verified the temp with an IR temp gun? I mean.....I guess what I'm askin is are you SURE it's really gettin that hot? Like 100% sure and not 99%.
Without reading 9 pages again, I thought of something that may have an affect on engine temps. This applies to intakes that has the t'stat housing as part of the intake
What I found was this, with high flow t'stats such as Milodon, Robert Shaw, Mr. Gasket.
When these stats are fully open, the outer barrel drops down about 1/4-5/16". The water flows through this space. On some intakes, there is very little room for coolant flow because the barrel is close to the casting. If you calculate the areas, this area is actually less than the T-stat opening & causes a flow restriction. What I have done is ground away the metal under the lip that the stat sits on to remove any restriction.
What I found was this, with high flow t'stats such as Milodon, Robert Shaw, Mr. Gasket.
When these stats are fully open, the outer barrel drops down about 1/4-5/16". The water flows through this space. On some intakes, there is very little room for coolant flow because the barrel is close to the casting. If you calculate the areas, this area is actually less than the T-stat opening & causes a flow restriction. What I have done is ground away the metal under the lip that the stat sits on to remove any restriction.
Slappy
Well-Known Member
Yes multiple times and different areas
Slappy
Well-Known Member
I currently have a standard 180 t-stat
Slappy
Well-Known Member
I got the heavy duty water pump today as suggested since I’m not sure what’s there because another shop replaced it . I will get in likely next week and will post the results. Thanks again for all the help!
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
EDIT TO REMOVE WRONG INFO
I think someone said that the March Pulley system you are running is at about 0.90:1 so OK for 8 fin. But if you had a 6 fin it might not move enough coolant.
If you scored one with the fin backing disc, a little better yet.
I think someone said that the March Pulley system you are running is at about 0.90:1 so OK for 8 fin. But if you had a 6 fin it might not move enough coolant.
If you scored one with the fin backing disc, a little better yet.
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Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Did you finger it out...I mean figure it out?
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Are your sure about that? I thought the A/C cars generally had 6 blade pumps, but were over driven to increase coolant flow (and fan speed).
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