Overheating 360 new engine

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Slappy said:
Forgot to mention the fans are the slim type.
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Geez I would love to help but my 975 hp car runs perfectly cool when I drive it locally around KC, no thermostat either, lol, and race it but I only have a 2 row 1.25" core Wizard or a good Griffin same spec radiator would work and I also only have a 2400 cfm pusher style fan with no additional shroud and all the experts repeatedly tell me it can't work as good as their setups so in closing i'm sorry to not be able to help but I obviously don't know what i'm doing, have all the wrong parts and just plain lucky or lying so you will have to go back for more flawless advice from the "experts"
 
RustyRatRod said:
That has 30% or more of your radiator core blocked from air flow
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More like 50 % or more.


Maybe it is time to dump all the fancy stuff, get a stock or stock style copper brass HP/ AC radiator, the appropriat pulleys, fan and fan shroud.


Or maybe you are chasing a ghost and the engine is just not broken in yet.
 
Slappy said:
So I added the radiator fan shroud to the radiator with two new high cfm fans now it doesn’t fit . The radiator I have is a 3 row champion so I’m thinking maybe a two row would be better for fitment . Or I can mount the fans directly on the radiator without the shroud . I’m not sure what to do. My choices are try a 2 row so I can have a shroud or no shroud at all . Both seem counter productive to my issue .

View attachment 1715998435
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I'm running one of these in 14" myself. They don't tell you this but you have to reverse the blades when switching between push and pull. I can see yours are set up as a pusher. You gotta flip the blades because they don't work the way you have them mounted, and it'll push twice the air. Blue will be positive. runs quieter too
 
Like this

20221015_153031.jpg
 
Let it breathe, let it breathe, let it breathe.

You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make them drink.

Air Flow and no tight fit clearance issues eithed, along with sepentine setup pushing everything forward.

Screenshot_20220621-205007_Gallery.jpg
 
radiator fans are wired right. pulls air fine. I tested them they are going the right way. Im not ready to switch to stock set up.
 
Dana67Dart said:
More like 50 % or more.


Maybe it is time to dump all the fancy stuff, get a stock or stock style copper brass HP/ AC radiator, the appropriat pulleys, fan and fan shroud.


Or maybe you are chasing a ghost and the engine is just not broken in yet.
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A 17" tall by 25" wide radiator is 425 Sq Inch. 50% is 212.5 Sq Inch.

A factory 17 inch fan shroud opening is 227 Sq Inch so a little less than 50% blocked.

The two 12 inch electric fans are about 226.19 Sq Inch so still a bit less than 50%.

Not enough to piss and moan about.
 
Dave_J said:
A 17" tall by 25" wide radiator is 425 Sq Inch. 50% is 212.5 Sq Inch.

A factory 17 inch fan shroud opening is 227 Sq Inch so a little less than 50% blocked.

The two 12 inch electric fans are about 226.19 Sq Inch so still a bit less than 50%.

Not enough to piss and moan about.
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could be chasing my tail but def running hotter then it should.
 
Dave_J said:
A 17" tall by 25" wide radiator is 425 Sq Inch. 50% is 212.5 Sq Inch.

A factory 17 inch fan shroud opening is 227 Sq Inch so a little less than 50% blocked.

The two 12 inch electric fans are about 226.19 Sq Inch so still a bit less than 50%
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The difference is the stock fan shroud is not an inch away from the back of the radiator. And I know people will dismiss what I'm about to say but at road speeds the air will be stagnant in the areas where the aluminum shroud is parallel to the rad core.

Would you rather spray a stream of water into a funnel or at a flat.

At the flat the water (or air) has to turn 90 deg on impact, much will just bounce back. Like dropping a ball on the ground. It goes back up not sideways.

A good shroud will have a funnel shape of some type and be spaced farther away from the core, also if it is flat like your is it will have rubber flappers that open at speed and close at idle.

I'm out!
 
Dana67Dart said:
The difference is the stock fan shroud is not an inch away from the back of the radiator. And I know people will dismiss what I'm about to say but at road speeds the air will be stagnant in the areas where the aluminum shroud is parallel to the rad core.

Would you rather spray a stream of water into a funnel or at a flat.

At the flat the water (or air) has to turn 90 deg on impact, much will just bounce back. Like dropping a ball on the ground. It goes back up not sideways.

A good shroud will have a funnel shape of some type and be spaced farther away from the core, also if it is flat like your is it will have rubber flappers that open at speed and close at idle.

I'm out!
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A stock A body shroud puts the fan about 1.75 inches from the radiator. So a wee bit better than 1 inch.

A 1974 Dodge Charger shroud puts the fan back about 6 inches and the funnel effect will matter.
 
Slappy, try mounting the fans right on the radiator with out the shroud. You have a big radiator. You have enough airflow. You should have enough coolant flow.

I am still thinking there is an issue inside the engine and not in the cooling system. Something in the combo is wrong.

Bearings too tight?

Core shift and overbore is too close to water jacket?

Something causing cylinders 2,3,5 and 7 to run much hotter.
 
Slappy said:
Are you running the style track set up from march? what type of fan and spacer do you have?
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This is the 18" silent run solid mount fan we ended up with on the 440.

Note it is close to the radiator, 3/4"

You put the bolts through the fan and spacer, then you can slip it in and mount It to the water pump.

I used a rubber tipped porto-power to flex the core support forward just a tad, pushing off the block.

Started the bolts and snugged them up, then let the pressure off the port-power to return to the original position. No shroud used on the 440 application. Fans available on ebay.

Slant 6 fan spacer might be close to what you need for your setup.

18 inch solid mount fan.jpeg
 
P.S.
We also had my machinist, machine the aluminum serpentine water pump pulley flat on the face so the spacer would fit level and grab the shoulder shaft coming out of the water pump to keep it all centered.

Resized_20220621_174251_9888.jpeg


Example of rough draft mock up below.

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I’m thinking like you as well . For now because I have the fans I’m going to install right on the radiator. Update coming . No more engine building for me . Going crate motor next time.
 
Does anyone have a lower hose part number for the hose with the spring? Once I took mine off I realized I don’t have the spring.
 
Slappy said:
Does anyone have a lower hose part number for the hose with the spring? Once I took mine off I realized I don’t have the spring.
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CJ Pony Parts has them. They are for Mustangs, of course, but they fit and work for most others.
 
Slappy said:
Does anyone have a lower hose part number for the hose with the spring? Once I took mine off I realized I don’t have the spring.
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You can take a 3' long x 1/16" stainless steel bare welding rod, wrap it around 1 1/2" PVC tube and make your own inner radiator hose spring to keep it from collapsing from the suction of the water pump.
 
George Jets said:
You can take a 3' long x 1/16" stainless steel bare welding rod, wrap it around 1 1/2" PVC tube and make your own inner radiator hose spring to keep it from collapsing from the suction of the water pump.
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I used 2 sticks of ER70S-2 stainless rod 3 foot long. Tightly wrapped around a 1 inch PEX pipe. When released it springs out to 1.5 inch. Bend the ends in so they don't gouge the hose.


If the SS rods have the specification callout flags on the ends, snap them off as it will snap off later if you do not.

Some soapy water and some long pliers, just spin the wire in from both ends.
 
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This might sound stupid but did you do a pressure test on the cooling system, with a pump to the radiator neck, and then test the cap, should hold at least 14 psi. If there’s a tiny air leak any were it will increase the temp of the coolant with out a pressurized system. I had one that we tested 2 or 3 times, couldn’t figure it out till we tested the cap
 
Update 10/20/22. I have installed the fans, got the right coolant mixture in the engine and also drilled a hole in the thermostat. Still overheats. So someone in this thread had mentioned something about steam holes in the head gasket. After getting the engine to 180 deg I have found that the driver side head is getting much hotter than the passenger side . 50-100 degree difference. After further diag I’ve narrowed it down to cylinder 3 and 5 . Ironically #5 is the cylinder that the freeze plug blew out of. I have two car shows I’m going to in the first part of November. After that I’m going to start by removing the driver side head to inspect the gasket to block surface for any blocked holes by the gasket . Any advice is appreciated. Thanks to all for the ongoing help. I will update this again after I remove the head or heads . To give you an idea how hot it gets my msd box is mounted on the driver inner fender and the temp on the outside of the box was 152f The master cylinder was 165f . I did many temp readings at the same spots on each head as well.
 
You are going backwards. That shroud is no good. Pray you don’t have an electrical issue where you lose power to, or have to shut off power to those fans to conserve battery power. You will never get it to run cooler with that setup. Talk about the air packing up and not flowing though......good lord. I notice you never positively identified what water pump you are running. Six vane, eight vane, plate on the impeller?
 
With or "Without" that aluminum box shroud the way you have it configured, you are only moving air though 1/2 of that radiator core.

2E342684-954A-4D34-9F3C-D01CE21EFD9A.jpg


Those plastic fans with their plastic shrouding "Will Not" allow you to pull air from outside their main diameters. So of course It is going to over heat.

Do the 9" x 11" paper test on the front of the radiator with those 2 electric fans running.

4 sheets of paper on the front side of the radiator, see which 2 sheets stay tight to the radiator and which 2 sheets fall off. This will show you where the air flows through the radiator core.
 
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