Overheating 360 new engine

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72bluNblu said:
See, that wasn't so hard!

Using 1,000 ft and VE at 110% the ECR for my 340 is only 8.79, but if I don't pull timing it will detonate under heavy loads. And no, not an artificial heavy load like dumping the car in high gear and going WOT, a real life load like an 8% grade under throttle

And before you jump on your high horse and tell me my build is ****, I know my build isn't perfect. And the fuel I can get here isn't great half the year. And I know from driving the car for 35k+ miles over the last 8 years or so that trying to run it at 160° on the street is a terrible idea. And that's FINE, because you didn't build my engine. And you don't drive my car when it's 110°F out either.

Props to you if your builds work like that, but they don't all work like that, so telling someone on the internet that their car should do that without having built their engine is kinda silly.



You'd have a point if you didn't keep making posts like this. If @Slappy wants to PM me, he's more than welcome and I'll happily help him pick an electric fan that will work for him without all the drama and without changing his pulley system or his entire build


See, I didn't even need to quote you. That sounds absolutely horrible.

I drive my Duster all the time because I love driving it. It gets rock chips and door dings, and while I don't like that it's not worth parking the car over. It's a car and it's meant to be driven and rock chips and door dings are just part of that. If I wanted to drive a boring *** new car all the time I would, but there's no fun in that at all.

If I get in a wreck I'll buy it back, part it out and build another one. Life goes on! That's what insurance is for, it's not worth living in fear, or being afraid to drive my own car. I make it handle and stop as best I can and use that performance to avoid accidents and drive defensively. If that runs out well there's insurance money and repairs, and make it better next time around.

As far as the rest, I couldn't care less if people praise or admire my build. I built it for me and my enjoyment! But you know what? People stop me all the time at gas stations and parking lots to talk to me about my car. But most people don't know all that much anyway, I used to get offers to buy my '72 Challenger all the time, that thing was a rusty POS but everyone wanted it. It's why I don't bother with car shows anyway, at least half the people there don't really know what they're looking at anyway. Or they only appreciate the 100% stock stuff that will get absolutely flogged by a new econo-box commuter car. Again, boring as hell. Drive it or sell it.
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I bet I could make 5 pretty simple changes and you’d make more power and it would run better at 160.

An 8% grade is pretty effing steep. I say EGT’s should be MANDATORY in cars so you can watch the exhaust temperature as the car is driven. That’s why God made the transmission. Sometimes you have to downshift.
 
Here is another one that is going to run cool and it's a 451 Stroker:

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Rat Bastid said:
I bet I could make 5 pretty simple changes and you’d make more power and it would run better at 160.

An 8% grade is pretty effing steep. I say EGT’s should be MANDATORY in cars so you can watch the exhaust temperature as the car is driven. That’s why God made the transmission. Sometimes you have to downshift.
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Then PM me! Like I said, I'm not proud, I know my build isn't perfect.

I'm done arguing this stuff. Everybody thinks there's only one way to do this and that it applies to everyone, and that's just not true at all. Hopefully @Slappy gets his car sorted out so he can drive it.
 
Rat Bastid said:
I bet I could make 5 pretty simple changes and you’d make more power and it would run better at 160.

An 8% grade is pretty effing steep. I say EGT’s should be MANDATORY in cars so you can watch the exhaust temperature as the car is driven. That’s why God made the transmission. Sometimes you have to downshift.
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Yeah that's 8 feet of rise in 100 feet. 8 miles of rise in 100 miles. That's a HUGE grade. I'm a model railroader so I know grades. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah that's 8 feet of rise in 100 feet. 8 miles of rise in 100 miles. That's a HUGE grade. I'm a model railroader so I know grades. lol
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Like I said, my commute goes from 3,500+ feet to sea level in ~60 miles, it has some grades. My "fun drive" starts at 3,500+ and goes up to 8,000+ feet in about 35 miles.

Yeah, I downshift, but I also want some margin so I don't detonate one my hypereutectic pistons. Doesn't matter if it makes more power if it's busted all the time
 
72bluNblu said:
Like I said, my commute goes from 3,500+ feet to sea level in ~60 miles, it has some grades. My "fun drive" starts at 3,500+ and goes up to 8,000+ feet in about 35 miles.

Yeah, I downshift, but I also want some margin so I don't detonate one my hypereutectic pistons. Doesn't matter if it makes more power if it's busted all the time
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Probably a fun drive!
 
Living on the west coast things are a bit steeper. This is about 2 miles from my home and the only way I go into town unless its raining. Steering with the throttle is not fun on a steep hill. See the inset on bottom left for how twisty the road is.

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72Blu,
Not only do you need to improve your knowledge base, but also your reading skills. The OP never claimed it was just o'heating at idle [ your post, #135 ]; in post #11 he says the temp climbs when he is driving.
At least TWO well websites that make cooling fans recommend mech fans over elec fans for towing. That is because towing generates additional heat, which is exactly what is happening with the OPs engine.
 
Once a month a 18 wheeler or even a pickup truck with a Trailer on back will get jack-knifed up in the corners. Even when its dry my 78 LRT will make me steer with the throttle when the rear "Posi's up". When its wet I will not try.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Yeah, that’s a dang steep grade.
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The old logging railroad and now passenger line in Cass, WV has a 12% grade on one of its switchbacks. There are only three styles of locomotives that can pull a train up that grade. A Shay, Climax and Heisler. They are all three steam powered gear driven locomotives. There's not a rod style steam locomotive that can do that, AFAIK.
 
When a dog chases their tail, does he ever catch up with it.

Hmmm . . .

Asking for a friend.
 
George Jets said:
Got rid of the electric fan and it's Restrictive shroud and replaced with an 18" solid mount Silent Run fan 3/4" away from the open radiator.

Runs cool now, no problem
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There is no way that could work....


:thumbsup::lol:

I say the same thing and no one believes me!

I know 2 guys with bigblock darts, 1 is stock rad and 1 is aluminum rad. one no shroud and one has a shroud.

Neither have overheating issues

Otherwise the cooling system is OEM stock.
 
Ok guys thanks again for the help. I have been tied up with hurricane mess. I am following this post. I worked on the car this evening. I called March tech line, and I inquired about the pump and direction of the pump. Everything there is fine. I did order a new set of fans and a fan shroud. I decided to do a leak down test on the engine. I did 4 cylinders tonight. 1,8,4,3. All 4 cylinders have about a 10% leak. Also, I stuck my stethoscope tube over the oil dipstick, and I hear air escaping to the crank case. I don't have much experience with a leak down tester. How much or if any air should escape into the crank case? The engine has less than 200 miles on it. I will post a picture of my spark plugs tomorrow. They are telling a story as well. On the four cylinders that I checked the valve lash is good.
 
Slappy said:
Ok guys thanks again for the help. I have been tied up with hurricane mess. I am following this post. I worked on the car this evening. I called March tech line, and I inquired about the pump and direction of the pump. Everything there is fine. I did order a new set of fans and a fan shroud. I decided to do a leak down test on the engine. I did 4 cylinders tonight. 1,8,4,3. All 4 cylinders have about a 10% leak. Also, I stuck my stethoscope tube over the oil dipstick, and I hear air escaping to the crank case. I don't have much experience with a leak down tester. How much or if any air should escape into the crank case? The engine has less than 200 miles on it. I will post a picture of my spark plugs tomorrow. They are telling a story as well. On the four cylinders that I checked the valve lash is good.
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I don’t like to leak down or do a compression test on a cold engine. If your 10% was done cold, that’s not bad. You usually pick up 2-3% from cold so I wouldn’t sweat that.

And no matter what, you will hear some air from the pan. It’s getting by the rings so that’s where it goes. So that’s normal too.
 
Thats what I was thinking as well. Figured the rings would not seal it completely. I mainly did the leak down test to make sure no air escapes to the cooling system. I know i should do the test when hot but I didn't want to work on a hot engine.
 
I finished my leak down testing. All cylinders are 10% or under. No air escaping into the cooling system . I pulled out my plugs of course to do the testing. What do you all make of these plugs? Mostly idle time on them . I put them on when I first put the Holley sniper on.

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#3 looks totally different than the other 7.

Since it's mostly idle I wouldn't be too surprised about the sooty looking plugs, especially since your EFI hasn't really had a chance to do much self tuning. But cylinder #3 is doing something totally different than the rest of the engine, so that's worth checking out.
 
Slappy said:
I finished my leak down testing. All cylinders are 10% or under. No air escaping into the cooling system . I pulled out my plugs of course to do the testing. What do you all make of these plugs? Mostly idle time on them . I put them on when I first put the Holley sniper on.

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Pig fat rich.
Dave_J said:
Plugs are sooty with what looks like oil but your rings are not seated yet.
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Thats not oil. That’s fuel. Any oil on there is because the oil is being washed off the cylinder walls.
 
Agree that with the "Sniper" EFI it maybe the 'Cold Start' being too rich.

What I'd do is, brush the plugs clean, start it and drive WELL above idle till about 195F and shut it down. Let headers cool enough, then look at the plugs. Do not idle it at all if possible....
 
My fresh rebuilt engine had head gaskets missing the steam holes. Not saying it's your problem just a heads up. Caused incurable overheating similar to your experience.
Now I won't replace head gaskets until I can compare them to the old ones.
 
So I added the radiator fan shroud to the radiator with two new high cfm fans now it doesn’t fit . The radiator I have is a 3 row champion so I’m thinking maybe a two row would be better for fitment . Or I can mount the fans directly on the radiator without the shroud . I’m not sure what to do. My choices are try a 2 row so I can have a shroud or no shroud at all . Both seem counter productive to my issue .

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Slappy said:
So I added the radiator fan shroud to the radiator with two new high cfm fans now it doesn’t fit . The radiator I have is a 3 row champion so I’m thinking maybe a two row would be better for fitment . Or I can mount the fans directly on the radiator without the shroud . I’m not sure what to do. My choices are try a 2 row so I can have a shroud or no shroud at all . Both seem counter productive to my issue .

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That has 30% or more of your radiator core blocked from air flow. That's not good.
 
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