PCM wiring

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Yea I noticed they don’t have specific instructions for the hemi but I dug around a little and noticed that they use the same main distribution fuse block for most of their harness’ so the hemi intall should be similar enough that you can use those instructions. I imagine power distribution and ignition hook up will be the same. I emailed them asking for specific hemi instructions for my own curiosity, let’s see if they reply. Post up some pics of your fuse block and the unterminated wires and I bet we can figure it out.
 
Thanks again! Yeah, maybe Andy will respond to you since he hasn't taken your money yet? That makes sense about the instructions then. The Hemi seems to be quite different. The only outputs are 2 fans, fuel pump, 12v (when cranking and on) and the 12v directly to the battery. The rest of the wires go out to the ECM itself. The part that I really don't understand is that there is no dedicated ground anywhere? I would think it would require a very good ground somewhere? Anyway, I posted a bunch of pics with some notes. Let me know if you have any more thoughts....

ecm3.jpg


ecm2.jpg


ecm1.jpg
 
mychristine said:
I’m not sure of anything since it came from swap specialties (absolutely awful experience and no support). What I do know is that it is a used stock ecm from a 2008 - 2010. My engine is a 2014- that can also be a problem...but I guess I’ll get to that. How would I know if the security was disabled?
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I think you need to look at the differences between a 2014 and 2008-10 motor.

I came up blank trying to figure out if the crank tone ring is different but did find one place that sold a 58 tooth ring for 2009-2012 motors and a 58 tool ring for 2013+. Might be the number of bolts it uses, but could be the spacing, too.

And the VVT motor was introduced in '09 (at leas as far as I know), but your PCM spans that year. That feels wrong.

I would bet the trouble you are having is all due to the PCM not working with the components on the motor.
 
DionR said:
I think you need to look at the differences between a 2014 and 2008-10 motor.

I came up blank trying to figure out if the crank tone ring is different but did find one place that sold a 58 tooth ring for 2009-2012 motors and a 58 tool ring for 2013+. Might be the number of bolts it uses, but could be the spacing, too.

And the VVT motor was introduced in '09 (at leas as far as I know), but your PCM spans that year. That feels wrong.

I would bet the trouble you are having is all due to the PCM not working with the components on the motor.
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The last time I heard from Andy (a couple months ago), I told him that I had concerns about the older ecm and newer engine. He was not concerned. However, maybe that's why he disappeared. That would be a disaster....I would literally need to drop my engine out again to get the harness out and a new one in. Not to mention that everything is ran perfectly right now with hours on hours of making everything neat and clean. I actually have a sick feeling in my stomach right now....I need to get to the bottom of this because I cannot head down that path without knowing for sure that this setup cannot be used. UUUggghh.
 
looks like you need to make sure "ign 1" and "ign2" and "ecm" in your fuse panel all have 12v with the key in the on and start position, those are your inputs. I am not talking about the mopar wiring. It looks like you already have the ign1 and ign2 from the car tied together from the ign switch. Everything else should be triggered by the ecu, fans, fuel pump, ect.
 
It’s an A41 from SilverSport. They call it a perfect fit, which it is for the most part. A few small modifications and it goes right in. BTW, fantastic company with fantastic tech support.
 
Just a quick update. Thanks everyone for your help with this- much appreciated! After all considerations, the thought is that it is the crank sensor. The ecm that swap specialties gave me was for a 2008 - 2010 which has 32 teeth on the crank. My engine is a 2014 which has 58 teeth- this path was started by Dion btw- so thank you. I spoke to the programmer that did my skim delete and he is going to try to change the program to match the 58 tooth in the older 5.7 program. If this is not possible, the 2010 6.1 also has 58 teeth and he can put that program on it, worst case- then it just needs to be tuned locally (which it does anyway). I already pulled the ecm back out and sent it to him. I’m hoping this works....but honestly, I don’t feel 100% confident because the in the back of my mind I feel like there is still the VVT issue. Fingers crossed!
 
Hey WTH back in post 21 I told you that. I get no respect. Kidding. Glad you’re on the path to figure it out. Keep us updated on your progress.
 
Haha- I'm sorry, TT!!!! You're right...you did question the crank sensor first! Hope on on the right path....I'll know soon. I also hope that nobody else needs to go through this and everyone stays away from Swap Specialties!
 
mychristine said:
I’m hoping this works....but honestly, I don’t feel 100% confident because the in the back of my mind I feel like there is still the VVT issue. Fingers crossed!
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I think worst case you will need to disable the VVT mechanism to make it work. A 6.1 tune has nothing in it to run VVT and your motor will probably run like junk with the cam stuck in one place.

TT5.9mag said:
Hey WTH back in post 21 I told you that. I get no respect. Kidding. Glad you’re on the path to figure it out. Keep us updated on your progress.
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For what it's worth, I was building on your comment with mine (even if I didn't quote you). :thumbsup:
 
Awe now I feel the love. I’m just glad myself and dion got you moving in the right direction.
 
DionR said:
I think worst case you will need to disable the VVT mechanism to make it work. A 6.1 tune has nothing in it to run VVT and your motor will probably run like junk with the cam stuck in one place.



For what it's worth, I was building on your comment with mine (even if I didn't quote you). :thumbsup:
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I know, I worry about that, but here's the weird thing....the harness has a VVT connector on it that is plugged in. It's why I worry that nobody else but that company knows how to set up this computer. I spoke to the new programmer and let him know about it- he's looking into it. What a nightmare, man. If this doesn't work, I'm already starting to wrap my head around getting the proper setup from Mopar. More time and money just because of that awful Swap Specialties. I left another message over there the other day, just for the hell of it- but of course I have heard nothing.
 
Don’t get too worried yet. Guys delete the vvt stuff all the time on these. Most of the time when a cam swap is done they just toss all the vvt stuff. So I have to believe a good tuner can tune it out of the ecu. The only thing I am not 100% certain of is if the stock ecu can be tuned for the different crank pattern.
 
Flyin Ryan May be a good person for you to touch base with. He is a wizard with stock jtec ecus and he may be able to answer a lot of questions you have.
https://www.frptuning.com/
 
DionR said:
Ran across this thread by accident today - No start on a 2014 Ram 5.7 swap into a jeep SKIM disabled

He mentioned a start signal replicator module at the end that it got his rig to fire up.
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Thanks, Dion!

Update. I got the pcm back from the programmer (again). No fire. Same deal...fuell pump, fans, coil power- no spark.

A little info for anyone that hopefully never has to go through this- the pcm I have is the 2008 - 2010 computer (4 connectors, one is blank). The engine is a 2014 5.7 from a RAM. One of the differences is that the ring on the crank of the older engine has 32 teeth and the newer engine has 58 teeth. The programmer put on the program from a 2010 6.1 because the 6.1 has 58 teeth.

However, still nothing. I am going to look into the module from Dion's link....note the swap specialties warning in his post, as well! I hope that company goes out of business for screwing so many people!!
 
The start module might help but you are pissing in the wind if the ecu is looking for a 32 tooth signal and you are feeding it a 58 tooth signal, or vice versa. If it does run the coil dwell time will be way off and likely burn up coils.
 
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