Peanut Butter ...??

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LH23H2R

LH23H2R

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This has me somewhat mystified ...
When-ever I check the oil level in the stock 318 in my '72 Coronet , I find a smattering of the dreaded "Peanut Butter" at the very top of the dipstick (!!)
The crankcase oil is normal ( no discolouration , normal fill-level , etc. ) , but that damned Peanut Butter that's only at the top --near the handle-- of the dipstick behooves me !

Any ideas ?
Ostensibly , condensation's getting-into the motor some-how ; more than 'normal' moisture .

I replaced the head gaskets 2 and 1/2 years ago (along with the intake gaskets ) ; used Perma-torque gaskets (metal / composite) ; used copper adhesive ; all head dowels were in-place ; all retainers torqued in proper sequence and to their lb/psi specifications ; and it's been 20,000 + miles .

Timing Cover is new , along with its gaskets / seals ( replaced back in July ) .
Cooling system is a mix of G05 and Distilled Water .

Car never runs hot , even in hot weather / extended driving / extensive idling .

Please advise .

Thank you !

[email protected] attn : John re: coolant .
 
Fishy68 - Thanks for your prompt reply :glasses7:.

The PCV valve is about 6 months old ; I check and clean it every-other month .

The breather is another issue . Like you've pointed out , it's an integral part of the crankcase ventilation .
It's the *correct* 1972 & later breather ; however , the evap cannister is gone , as it was plagued with vacuum leaks . It's "TANK" line
(the hard metal vent line which goes to the fuel tank) is "open" , as is the Bowl Vent on the (original) BBD carburetter .

I've been looking for a decent 3-nipple breather (1970-1971 style ) to replace the now-incorrect breather .
I posted a "wanted" ad here ; I've received a few responses , but nothing's been in my (meager) budget .

None-the-less ...

I'm thankful that you've mentioned the PCV / Crankcase Breather system as a possible suspect .

Thanks again !

Other replies / opinions are welcome as well :angel7:
 
Driving it seldom or on short trips will cause that. Get it out on the road for a long trip and blow that beeotch out. The hotter you get it for a longer period of time will help tremendously.
 
StrokerScamp - Thanks for your reply .

I drive 15 miles one-way to work , 12 of which are 65 MPH freeway miles ; operating temp is spot-on (even on the 25-30 degree temp mornings).

I really think that this 318 is just tired-out . It's the original , untouched-other-than-routine-service-and-head-gaskets engine
( whatever happened to the days of "Free 318 ! Just come & get it!
Rebuilt ,low miles , swapping a 340 in its place..." ?).

Thanks again for your reply :glasses7:
 
It's condensation that forms that. Normally it would be boiled out of the oil but in some areas they just don't get that hot or get enough airflow. The dipstick is one of them. I'd verify the PCV valve is the right one (A lot of brands now only make a one size that fits all for the older stuff... Some don't flow enough to really work) If that's fine, and the breather side is exposed to the atmosphere (meaning the breather isn't plugged) you're fine. Just drive the car.
 
Any full size van with a mile long dipstick tube will have condenstation at the top of it. Nothing to worry about though. If your crank case breater cap has the fiber web filling, it will not stop or slow the entering moisture. A dense foam filled cap will help.
If you have a fancy chrome OEM cap and wish to take it apart and replace the element, it can be done.
 
my wife's car had same trouble 18 miles to work 18 miles back put a 195 degree stat in helped a lot.now all I have to figure out is how to make the exhaust to last longer than a yr and 1/2. I guess that's the disadvantage of working close to home ............Artie
 
godfatherofchry said:
now all I have to figure out is how to make the exhaust to last longer than a yr and 1/2. I guess that's the disadvantage of working close to home ............Artie
Click to expand...

If I guess this car is parked on a white concrete driveway, would I be correct ?
 
.............Get a factory pcv valve, as mentioned earlier about the parts store 1 size fits all doesnt really cut it........also replace the hose as they become brittle and collapse inside not letting the pcv do its job.........running too cool will also cause this.................kim..........
 
godfatherofchry said:
my wife's car had same trouble 18 miles to work 18 miles back put a 195 degree stat in helped a lot.now all I have to figure out is how to make the exhaust to last longer than a yr and 1/2. I guess that's the disadvantage of working close to home ............Artie
Click to expand...

Stainless or Galvanize will last quite some time...
 
I have seen this on alot of high milage small blocks.
Keep the pvc system clean.
It may also be caused by a small amount of leakage past the rings.
You can do a leak down and compression test to confirm this.
Was there a ridge at the top of the cylinders when you had the heads off?
If it is running fine I would not worry about it too much.
 
sireland67 said:
I have seen this on alot of high milage small blocks.
Keep the pvc system clean.
It may also be caused by a small amount of leakage past the rings.
You can do a leak down and compression test to confirm this.
Was there a ridge at the top of the cylinders when you had the heads off?
If it is running fine I would not worry about it too much.
Click to expand...

When I took the heads off and examined the bores , I was surprised to find decent cylinders ; no ridge to speak of (although I'm sure there was a bit ; nothing one could even catch a fingernail on ) .
The deck was nice and straight (checked with a straightedge) as were the heads' surfaces .

I'm going to fiddle with the car this weekend . I'm afraid to run a leakdown test :-| ...
 
godfatherofchry said:
?????? the car is on blacktop all the time.....
Click to expand...

I asked because back in my textile mill days ( 30+ yrs ago ) the old guys there believed white concrete driveways would cause the exhaust pipes to rust away faster than a gravel drive. I always wondered if that was a wives tail of sorts.
My dad had tail pipes and such replaced almost yearly. His daily commute was about 4 miles each way. Large numbers of workers lived wihin a few miles from there jobs back then. Local muffler shops stayed busy.
 
RedFish said:
I asked because back in my textile mill days ( 30+ yrs ago ) the old guys there believed white concrete driveways would cause the exhaust pipes to rust away faster than a gravel drive. I always wondered if that was a wives tail of sorts.
My dad had tail pipes and such replaced almost yearly. His daily commute was about 4 miles each way. Large numbers of workers lived wihin a few miles from there jobs back then. Local muffler shops stayed busy.
Click to expand...
I'v never herd that 4mil ya I bet they wouldn't last long..I think I would have rode a bike on good days........
 
On Sunday , I replaced the following :
- Intake Gaskets (they were bad)
- Thermostat (was 180 , now 195)
- PCV
- Breather

The Good :
Runs better ; no more vacuum leaks .

The Bad :
Was replacing all 8 spark plugs today ; #5 cylinder's plug is difficult to turn (and yes , I use plenty of Anti Seize) , so I just left it in .

The Ugly :
Still got god damned moisture in the crankcase !! "Milkshake" at the top of the dipstick , but not in the oil !!

I swear ... this engine's so damned tired ; crappy looking cam lobes on a couple of cylinders due to unknowingly running oil sans ZDDP
( thank you for letting US know, API !! :finga:) is a major factor .
Then , there's the bad head gaskets AGAIN !! Wow , only 2.5 years later and they're trashed already !!

Anyone got a dirt cheap LA-series 318 they want to get rid of ?????
Something that only needs new gaskets , seals , freeze plugs and *maybe* a timing chain ????

Oh , and my paycheck from my part-time job at the apartments where I live ($200 for two weeks) DIDN'T COME IN TODAY :mumum:.
 
LH23H2R said:
On Sunday , I replaced the following :
- Intake Gaskets (they were bad)
- Thermostat (was 180 , now 195)
- PCV
- Breather

The Good :
Runs better ; no more vacuum leaks .

The Bad :
Was replacing all 8 spark plugs today ; #5 cylinder's plug is difficult to turn (and yes , I use plenty of Anti Seize) , so I just left it in .

The Ugly :
Still got god damned moisture in the crankcase !! "Milkshake" at the top of the dipstick , but not in the oil !!

I swear ... this engine's so damned tired ; crappy looking cam lobes on a couple of cylinders due to unknowingly running oil sans ZDDP
( thank you for letting US know, API !! :finga:) is a major factor .
Then , there's the bad head gaskets AGAIN !! Wow , only 2.5 years later and they're trashed already !!

Anyone got a dirt cheap LA-series 318 they want to get rid of ?????
Something that only needs new gaskets , seals , freeze plugs and *maybe* a timing chain ????

Oh , and my paycheck from my part-time job at the apartments where I live ($200 for two weeks) DIDN'T COME IN TODAY :mumum:.
Click to expand...

I have ran in to that issue before. I drained the oil and then took starting fluid with a WD40 straw tip and fluhs out the dipstick tube and clean the dipstick. I take compressed air with a good dryer in the line and blow out the dipstick tube. Totally let the starting fluid evaporate. I usally wait 24 hours with the oil drained, the filter removed, the dipstick removed, pvc removed and the oil cap removed. Reassemble with new filter then fill with new oil. I have done this with good results. If the issue stays away then it was likely a condensation issue in the beginning.
 
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