Percolation? Heat soak? Don't drive during summer??

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DentalDart said:
I was thinking the same thing... what the hell happened to the snowmobiles and reefer talk lol.

I wont derail thread until tomorrow when it dies or doesn't die on me...
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We're not worthy, we're not worthy....
Talk like this will put you on my favorite member list.... That may not have sounded right..
 
yellow rose said:
I’d find something in a 10W40 or if you’re really into emptying your pockets, you can use a 5W40 100% synthetic and it can’t be a cheap oil. When the spread between the winter grade and the 212*F grade is that big, the additive package and even the base oil (which is the Winter grade and the additive package makes up the high side) has to be very good (and that ain’t cheap) or the oil will have a short life, and it won’t take long before it’s job.

In fact, a very good 5W30 would work for you, but again, that ain’t cheap.

The Driven oils are damn good for their price point. I can’t remember what it is, but I think 7 or 8 bucks a quart so it’s not outrageous.

Since I run a 5W30 and I’m dropping down to a 0W20, the oil I use is double damn expensive. I think it’s 22 bucks a quart.

That’s a lot, but I’m going WAY down in grade, plus I’m running a pretty aggressive solid flat tappet lobe, so I don’t mind paying it.

The Driven should be more inline with what you need, but not a 20 winter grade and not a 50 grade, unless you’re clearances are outrageously loose. Like .003 or more.
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This is the post where I misunderstood about the oil. My apologies. Like I said I haven't felt worth a carp today. No excuse I guess. I probably shouldn't have even been on here tonight.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It's a common thing in adults. More so than most think. My son is 30 now and had a bad case of it. I was serious when I said that, I wasn't making fun. I have a lot of experience with it and can spot it quickly.

With that said, don't let these yahoos veer you off track. You may have a small overheating issue, but it's certainly not enough to warrant changing oil grades. Were you running 900 plus HP in a big block with LOTS of heat buildup, then you might would want to look for every avenue to help run cooler. You're not.
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I have adhd and I'm dyslexic!! Its hard knock life for me for me..... oh looks a squirrle!
Haha
 
Well... i thought I fixed the coil, but it seems that the tach was not causing the coil to start firing when the car goes into the on position before cranking over. I took a video, this is the sound I've heard since I got the car which made me always think I had an electric fuel pump.... its not an electric fuel pump its the coil firing haha.

 
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Did it die? The coil buzzing is an odd issue. It seems like something is wired wrong (which you've gone over and I believe it was sorted) or a possible ignition module problem making the coil buzz constantly.
 
RammerJammer75 said:
Did it die? The coil buzzing is an odd issue. It seems like something is wired wrong (which you've gone over and I believe it was sorted) or a possible ignition module problem making the coil buzz constantly.
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I havent driven it, just moved it out of the garage as my wife was putting our baby down for a nap. Ill take it for a spin here in a second.

I'm trying to trace the wiring right now, I'm looking stthe jegs ecm directions. The biggest problem I have tracing the wiring is I dont know anything about the stock harness.

Here is what I have found regarding the wiring. I have 2 wires that are exposed, both seem to be from where PO installed the ecm possibly. One exposed wire goes to this little black thing where the battery connects and I believe the starter connects (green circle is exposed wire and I traced the wire in green). Other wire is circled in red and traced in red, that wire goes down to the starter itself.

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Those bare and broken wires need to be addressed badly. I hate to say it, but some of the wiring looks hacked to death. You've got to remember too, some of this wiring is 50+ years old, things unfortunately happen.
 
DentalDart said:
The biggest problem I have tracing the wiring is I dont know anything about the stock harness.
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DentalDart said:
this little black thing
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Well go back and read what I posted, and that includes the diagrams.
Sure as hell can't be more difficult than learning how all the thingamagigs connect to stuff inside a persons mouth.
 
Mattax said:
Well go back and read what I posted, and that includes the diagrams.
Sure as hell can't be more difficult than learning how all the thingamagigs connect to stuff inside a persons mouth.
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False haha. The mouth is way easier for me. You'd think I'd be better with electronics because the body uses currents to sent impulses from nerves to the brain...

I replaced the ecm and now it won't start :realcrazy: I also don't hear a buzzing... that may be attributed to the ecm or it may be attributed to the no starting problem. There is fuel in the carb, I watched the fuel shoot into the carb when I pressed the throttle lever...
 
I took the wire off the coil, when turning the ignition and cranking the car over Im not seeing any spark. Ill have to figure out what got disconnected when I took off the ecm. Should I have some kind of grease on the new prongs for the ecm?
 
It started for a split second and instantly died. So there is probably a bad connection somewhere.
 
RammerJammer75 said:
I believe the ignition module needs to be grounded (the actual body). Of course, new parts can be crap right out of the box. You just disconnected the old and replace it with the new right?
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Yes I disconnected the old ecm and installed the new one. I was thinking maybe it was getting a bad ground on the body due to the paint (even though it was in the same spot).

I actually figured the problem out... the yellow and black wire was attached to the negatige post on the coil as it should be but it wasnt making good contact with the wire terminal (is that the word for the wire connector)

I also didnt hear buzzing before it starting.

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I wonder if that shotty connection is actually what has been making the car die and not restart....
 
DentalDart said:
Yes I disconnected the old ecm and installed the new one. I was thinking maybe it was getting a bad ground on the body due to the paint (even though it was in the same spot).


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You definitely want the ECU to be grounded properly.
Some of the ECU'S are painted front and back. Take a screwdriver and scrape the paint off the 2 bolt mounting areas on the back of the ECU. And then, take the same screw driver and scrape the paint off the car where the ECU mounts. Only scrape the paint off the car where the ECU will cover.
This will give you a nice ground.

On my slant car, I added a ground jumper wire, for a good ground.

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