Performance info for 170 CI

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LAVAL60

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I've been inactive on the forum for the last few months and would appreciate some updated info. Recently retired and am in the process of building a new house and shop and am anxious to get the shop completed so I can get back to restoration of my '60 Valiant. Have any changes occured with the vendors of performance parts for the 170 CI six? Particluar intesest in headers, manifolds, carbs, cams. Same vendors? Same problems with vendors' etc?

Appreciate any info.

Thanks
 
66aCUDA said:
Except I am the Aussie Speed US Distributor and stock ALL of the Hurricane Manifolds and other Aussie Parts.
Frank
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Please forward contact info. (phone#) I'm interested in headers and an intake manifold. I'm in Mobile, AL, and Meridian is close if that is your location.

Thanks
 
LAVAL60 said:
I've been inactive on the forum for the last few months and would appreciate some updated info. Recently retired and am in the process of building a new house and shop and am anxious to get the shop completed so I can get back to restoration of my '60 Valiant. Have any changes occured with the vendors of performance parts for the 170 CI six? Particluar intesest in headers, manifolds, carbs, cams. Same vendors? Same problems with vendors' etc?

Appreciate any info.

Thanks
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Do you have any experience or information on the performance parts out of Australia? It seems to be difficult to contact anyone. Engine comes out next week for rebuild so I'm anxious to find headers and intake particularly. Other work and parts locally.

Thanks again
 
I'm planning to get pretty radical with the engine, but still streetable. Tube type headers and a big two-barrel. On the car I had in 1960, I simply split the manifold, modified the original aluminum manifold to accept a Pontiac two-barrel, Isky cam and kit, added springs to the clutch and it worked pretty well. Won most races! Aftermarket performance parts were pretty scarce then but seem to be more available now.

Since being warned about Clifford, was considering the Aussie parts.

Thanks
 
If the /6 is going to the machine shop and going radical with the engine I have learned that your head needs to be shaved at least 100k to bring your compression up to about 9 to1 while it is there and a good porting, But I am just learning myself.
Welcome back LAVAL60 and I hope our /6 guru's will jump in and get you updated , they have helped me allot.

there is allot of info in the this slant 6 forum :happy10:
 

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You cannot guess, assume, or use somebody else's numbers. There is way too much variation, not just across different heads and blocks but even in different combustion chambers in the same head. You must measure your cylinder head and your piston deck height to determine your starting combustion chamber volume. That's the only way to figure out how much to remove from the head (and/or the block) to arrive at the compression ratio you want.

Otherwise you are pissing (and barfing) into the wind.
 
slantsixdan said:
You cannot guess, assume, or use somebody else's numbers. There is way too much variation, not just across different heads and blocks but even in different combustion chambers in the same head. You must measure your cylinder head and your piston deck height to determine your starting combustion chamber volume. That's the only way to figure out how much to remove from the head (and/or the block) to arrive at the compression ratio you want.

Otherwise you are pissing (and barfing) into the wind.
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ha

we know they are a hair short of the advertised to begin with.

and the only way you are gonna get different 'with a proved formula' when it comes to mill formula ...is IF there is a variance in the chamber diameter....yes this why there is a diff in mill formula between diff engines.....

a smaller circumference requires more removed, meanwhile a cc...is a cc.

When I did my 225, I removed .020 from the block deck and .040 from the head. Later when I went with big valves, I removed another .020.
The cam I was using was the MP.460 268*, after the forementioned milling..I had 155psi across the board, before the last .020 was removed and big valves....I had 145psi across.

I think on the street, the 155 was plenty of dynamic cylinder pressure
 
That formula varies from head to head. Like the small blocks are like .0067 or sumthin like that equals one cc. It's sumthin you kinda have to figure out with each head. And I don't necessarily think it's the same for every kinda the same head, either. Cause with all the variations in machine work and blah blah blah you're gonna see differences everywhere. Best thing to do is just tell the machine shop "I want the chambers to equal "X" amount of ccs when you get done."
 
StrokerScamp said:
That formula varies from head to head. Like the small blocks are like .0067 or sumthin like that equals one cc. It's sumthin you kinda have to figure out with each head. And I don't necessarily think it's the same for every kinda the same head, either. Cause with all the variations in machine work and blah blah blah you're gonna see differences everywhere. Best thing to do is just tell the machine shop "I want the chambers to equal "X" amount of ccs when you get done."
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per cc it's..
.0048 -open chamber 340/360-[works for my stuff]
.0053 -273/318 closed chamber[57-61cc], open 68cc-.005
.0042-b/rb open chamber
.0062-b/rb closed chamber

you gotta wonder if they meant to figure this by bore diameter or by measuring across the valves chamber edge, or theres just a wide margin you can fall in and be good.

StrokerScamp said:
Nevermind, you found it. We musta posted bout the same time. LOL
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lol
 
Like Dan said; one has to measure the engine to be modified in order to decide on what has to be milled and or changed for a given result.

You need to pull the head, and cc its combustion chambers, measure how far down the pistons are at TDC, diameter if bore, and know thickness of head gasket, and stroke. Than plug all the information into an online Engine Calculator to determine what you are starting with.

Once you know the existing, one can make the necessary and most cost effective modifications to reach your build goal.

If your build is going to be on the radical side, attention to torque converter stall speed, rear end gear ratio, and tire size need to be addressed in order to extract all the performance your build can produce.

Planning is cheep, repeated rebuilding using R&R parts shotgun approach is expensive and unproductive…

If you are planning on using tube headers on a 170, and have power steering they may hit on top of the steering gear, and not fit. The top of the 170 block is one inch lower, or closer to the K member than a 225, or 198 block.
 
Header clearance is always an issue. The shorty Cliffords don't hit the powersteering box on '60 & '61's due to steering box being mounted to left frame rail and not the crossmember like all other a-bodies.
 
wjajr said:
Like Dan said; one has to measure the engine to be modified in order to decide on what has to be milled and or changed for a given result.

You need to pull the head, and cc its combustion chambers, measure how far down the pistons are at TDC, diameter if bore, and know thickness of head gasket, and stroke. Than plug all the information into an online Engine Calculator to determine what you are starting with.

Once you know the existing, one can make the necessary and most cost effective modifications to reach your build goal.

If your build is going to be on the radical side, attention to torque converter stall speed, rear end gear ratio, and tire size need to be addressed in order to extract all the performance your build can produce.

Planning is cheep, repeated rebuilding using R&R parts shotgun approach is expensive and unproductive…

If you are planning on using tube headers on a 170, and have power steering they may hit on top of the steering gear, and not fit. The top of the 170 block is one inch lower, or closer to the K member than a 225, or 198 block.
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we were talking 'BASED ON STOCK PISTONS AND HEADS' and we know wtf were dealing with in that department.:stfu:
 
wjajr said:
Like Dan said; one has to measure the engine to be modified in order to decide on what has to be milled and or changed for a given result.

You need to pull the head, and cc its combustion chambers, measure how far down the pistons are at TDC, diameter if bore, and know thickness of head gasket, and stroke. Than plug all the information into an online Engine Calculator to determine what you are starting with.

Once you know the existing, one can make the necessary and most cost effective modifications to reach your build goal.

If your build is going to be on the radical side, attention to torque converter stall speed, rear end gear ratio, and tire size need to be addressed in order to extract all the performance your build can produce.

Planning is cheep, repeated rebuilding using R&R parts shotgun approach is expensive and unproductive…

If you are planning on using tube headers on a 170, and have power steering they may hit on top of the steering gear, and not fit. The top of the 170 block is one inch lower, or closer to the K member than a 225, or 198 block.
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Online engine calculator? Ummmmm......NO. I think we were just talkin stock stuff and ESTIMATING at that. When I go to assemble an engine, I get the cc burrette, my lexan square and start gettin REAL numbers. Damn a online calculator. We're only speakin in general terms here......am I misunderstandin that, Justin?
 
StrokerScamp said:
Online engine calculator? Ummmmm......NO. I think we were just talkin stock stuff and ESTIMATING at that. When I go to assemble an engine, I get the cc burrette, my lexan square and start gettin REAL numbers. Damn a online calculator. We're only speakin in general terms here......am I misunderstandin that, Justin?
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lol I know huh...

don't ya get sick and tired of all these .org suck up's that come on here polish the bearded ego trip?
 
consider the desired power level desired vs usage and then put together the package of cam [then compression to match the cam]/carb/intake exh/gear that works in that usage range....or just a mix matched pos that could be fast if it only had this or that.

If buying performance pistons rated at this w/that cc.....you should check cc and correct to required chamber volume.

If dealing with stock piston or..
[the famous use stock pistons and mill the hell out of the block and head slant six build] short of the over bore, u know what you have to start [the pistons and rods don't grow taller] and can use the formula in conjunction with the calculator to get where you need to be after cc.
honestly though, if wanting more comp in a stock motor or cam change motor, just mill what you want within the realm of common sense...

I have 3 bone stock 225 heads 1 '66, 1 '67, 1 '77
I will measure them all and let you know how close or 'nuts on' they are.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
don't ya get sick and tired of all these .org suck up's that come on here polish the bearded ego trip?
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No, but I DO get tired of all the misinformation that gets spewed so often around here, often to slant newbies. Nobody bitches about that, though.

Over the past 10 years, Dan's advice has saved me more time, effort, and money on my slant than any other source. But then, I'm not an 18-year-old trying to build a 10-second slant to beat up on a schoolmate's Honda Civic, either...

You don't like Dan's advice or those who appreciate it? Ignore it, like I ignore about half of the garbage I read here.
 
vynn3 said:
No, but I DO get tired of all the misinformation that gets spewed so often around here, often to slant newbies. Nobody bitches about that, though.

Over the past 10 years, Dan's advice has saved me more time, effort, and money on my slant than any other source. But then, I'm not an 18-year-old trying to build a 10-second slant to beat up on a schoolmate's Honda Civic, either...

You don't like Dan's advice or those who appreciate it? Ignore it, like I ignore about half of the garbage I read here.
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I tend to agree. Dan kinda rubbed me the wrong way at first, but that's just his delivery. He knows a lotta stuff and is kind enough to share. I think he's one of the good guys fo sho.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Dan kinda rubbed me the wrong way at first, but that's just his delivery.
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Really? Weeeeird... I've never heard that before... (Oh, wait, sarcasm doesn't translate through the written word, does it? ;) )

Yeah, Dan and I have bumped heads a few times over the years. But he's a gold mine of valuable info. It's just his delivery of said info that's... an acquired taste... :)
 
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