Petronix Electronic Ignition Any Good?

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I have installed a Pertronix D141710 dist with the ignitor 2, and the correct matching coil 45111, 45,000 volts with the .6 ohms in my 69 cuda, 318 auto , as I was told by there tech. line to use, have been unable to get the car to run, have been tracing down what may be the problem, was told need full 12 volts to coil, so I remove the resister block and have the start/run wires hooked together so I have power all the time. Just was in contact again with there tech. support he emailed me a list of items to check with a ohm meter for correct values so I will see that leads me to hopefully can fine the issue.
 
I had to remove the ballast resister also make sure the coil wires from the distributor to the coil are on correct. Mine had to go to the negative side not the positive side like the old points distributor. Didn't make sense to me but I did it anyway and it works.
 
I just had a thought, could a very long coil to dist wire be to long [ my is 24" long], coil mounted on the inner fender well? 318 engine, Have weak spark as shown with a spark plug test light. Car seems like wants to start, have a few hits but will not run. Tried to see if by turning dist. to adjust timing would help but no change as to how the car tries to start , I have the coil wired as per the instructions, that is - and positive wire hook up. Power from ignition switch to + on coil, and red wire from Pertronix dist, and black wire from dist to - on coil.
 
I just had a thought, could a very long coil to dist wire be to long [ my is 24" long], coil mounted on the inner fender well? 318 engine, Have weak spark as shown with a spark plug test light. Car seems like wants to start, have a few hits but will not run. Tried to see if by turning dist. to adjust timing would help but no change as to how the car tries to start , I have the coil wired as per the instructions, that is - and positive wire hook up. Power from ignition switch to + on coil, and red wire from Pertronix dist, and black wire from dist to - on coil.
An overly long coil secondary wire can cause stuff like RFI/ EMI / radio interference, but unless the wire is actually defective, that length should fire OK. Check the resistance with your ohmeter

Then put your meter on coil+ or if you have a ballast, connect to "key side" of ballast, and ground and measure voltage first with key in "run", with engine stopped, then again while cranking

You should have close to 12 or more "key on" (with no ballast) and at least 10.5 or more when cranking.
 
Replies are about different Pertronix. The original Ignitor keeps the ballast resistor, so has no dwell control, similar to the original Mopar ECU. Ignitor II uses no ballast, so more like the first GM HEI. Ignitor III adds MSD and rev limiter ($$). Some answered about Pertronix custom distributor ($$$).

Many here use the GM 8-pin HEI (1985-95 V-8) with its coil and connecting cable. TrailBeast here used to sell kits w/ new parts. An easy junkyard pick. I have one in my 3 old Mopars (225, 273, 383). I carry a spare module ($20). The original GM 4-pin HEI is more custom wiring and less reliable connections.

I recall the original Ignitor in the early 1990's J.C. Whitney catalog, or at least one which looked the same. Another points distributor retrofit was Crane Cams XR700 (began as Lucas). I installed one in my 1969 Dart slant and 1965 Newport. It has a plastic optical pickup wheel (several for different engines). I had both an optical pickup fail and later the control box. Fortunately had a spare box in the trunk to drive home.
 
I agree, they have a good reputation. That said, lets say you're cruisin around on a nice Sunday afternoon and the unit fails. Where are you gonna find one?
I had that question in my cranium when I put a Pertronix in the 289 distributor in my 1940 Ford. I had got fed up with trying to get points and condenser as the parts counter kids can not find their nutz to scratch them until all the boxes on the glowing screen are filled in. With your concern in mind, keep the original wire from the coil to the points and a new point set and condenser in a zip lock bag in your glove box or trunk. If the Pertronix Igniter should fail it is easy enough to put the points back in. Takes up virtually no room.
 
I guess you haven't read to many threads here. It seems there are just as many good reports as bad ones. Just like we all love Mopar's and chevy guys will tell you we are nuts. I just happen to be one that has a good one. When it dies, I'll find a better distributor. Some say Biden is nuts and others tried to shoot Trump today. It takes all kinds to make up the world in which we live.
 
Since at least the last time I looked, which was a couple of decades ago—so might be outta date.
The example I posted were all from the past. Even the Mallory built Mopar Performance distributors with their crappy YH advance mechanism haven't been made in at least a decade. Do you recall if you were you looking at a dual point - cast iron distributor? Or maybe just at the spring kit I posted? The long looped secondary spring is a key ingrediant in the (not) secret sauce the DC/MP was providing to racers and enthusiasts.
 
All I know is, while some of yall are trying to figure out your Pertronix....and other ignition systems, I'm driving down the road with my good old trusty Mopar electronic ignition.
 
All I know is, while some of yall are trying to figure out your Pertronix....and other ignition systems, I'm driving down the road with my good old trusty Mopar electronic ignition.
UNLESS YUR BALLAST RESISTOR CRAPS OUT had 3 die on me so I switched to FBO box and distrubutor no problems in 4 years . no perfect system out there yet
 
UNLESS YUR BALLAST RESISTOR CRAPS OUT had 3 die on me so I switched to FBO box and distrubutor no problems in 4 years . no perfect system out there yet
Who said anything was perfect?
 
Has any one used a relay to get a good 12 volts to the coil? If so where did you pick up the trigger power from? I tested the power to my coil it is just around 11.5 volts, still having a issue with a no start to car. Again this is a none Mopar electronic system, no resister block , Pertronox coil is 45111, 45,000 volt Flame thrower II unit, and matching dist. system. have power from ignition switch while cranking and in run mode of switch. But with spark plug tester in line shows only a weal yellow/orange spark, should be blue/white.
 
Have you tried to wire it {the coil} directly to the battery? This will let you know if the car still does not get enough juice maybe the coil is bad, It happens. If it starts then maybe you have problems in the wiring. I mean if you test the coil after you go from the battery to the ignition side of the coil. Be careful I don't want to see you damage anything but, that's what I would try. I'm running the flame thrower 3 with its matching coil and have no problems. I am also running a mechanical advance. I'm not sure if it makes a difference. MIKE
 
What you need to do for MAXIMUM voltage to the ign system: whatever wire are providing the 12v [+] to your existing ign system, use that wire to trigger a 12 relay, the relay coil terminal.
Connect the relay
contact to either the battery [+] terminal or large terminal on the alt, which ever is more convenient. The other relay contact goes to the ign system, remaining relay coil wire is grounded.
I doubt this problem is a low voltage problem, but at least with a relay you have eliminated one possible cause.
 
Has any one used a relay to get a good 12 volts to the coil? If so where did you pick up the trigger power from? I tested the power to my coil it is just around 11.5 volts, still having a issue with a no start to car. Again this is a none Mopar electronic system, no resister block , Pertronox coil is 45111, 45,000 volt Flame thrower II unit, and matching dist. system. have power from ignition switch while cranking and in run mode of switch. But with spark plug tester in line shows only a weal yellow/orange spark, should be blue/white.
Usually during cranking batteries go from 12.5 to 11 volts or so. So your not going to nor should you expect a full 12 volts at coil during cranking. Have you hooked a volt meter to plus side of coil and negative side of battery while cranking? Also what are volts at battery during cranking? I would start there.

Also, usually when ppl use relay to get battery volts to Ignition 1 circuit that is done for engine running coil voltage, not coil voltage during start. Start and Run circuits two completely different things.
 
I could write a book on this. Had a buddy of mine here for about 2 hours, he has had a lot of practice with dist. and wiring. We started with checked the new Pertronix coil, which is rated for 0.6 ohms, meter was 0.8 on primary side, then checked the secondary side 8690 ohms which is good reading for the coil. We then hooked + of coil to battery direct, still would not start. So then we checked for power for the crank and start from the switch, found no power I think on the crank { not sure ,getting a messed up in my head], so he says need to make sure ignition switch is ok, but in the mean time wants to double check the Pertronix II dist., checked ignitor plate to battery - ground is good, no signs of the module paper on back side burned so he feels was ok, then he wanted to do the bench test of the unit, I told him that I was sure per Pertronix you can not to do the bench test only the original one, but he still wanted to try it, so we pulled the dist. did the testing, you use a voltage meter, you are to get 12 volts each time you turn the dist,[ each lobe] shaft, but got mostly no reading, so he now feels the unit is bad[ both the dist. and coil are brand new], so he tells me to order a new unit for the dist. and trouble shoot the no power for the crank no ??

So after he leaves, I pull out the ignition switch, check the brown wire for continnuney , thought the bulkhead, for both the run wire which is blue/white stripe, and the crank wire which is brown wire, no problem, no corrosion, check 12 volts to the switch, tried the switch to make sure I did not loose anything inside as to power out was rock solid. So I feel the switch is not the problem. Going back the dist, I reread the email I got from Pertronix, person Andy, it clearly states not to bench test the dist, with Pertronix II module, so I really think the dist. module is not bad.

My bad, I took a short cut with both the old A/M dist and this new unit, in that when I wired the dist red wire, into the wire I had going to the + on the coil, I did not run a full wire from the dist, red to coil, I am think since the dist, red wire in hooked into the wire that it is causing a problem , in the fact that the coil needs to power up and down to build up the high voltage.

So I have added a lead to the red wire from the dist. need to reinstall the dist. and hook all wiring up , reinstall the ignition switch to test my theory.

As a side note when my buddy was here , he also wanted to do a static timing set up check, we did this before pulling the dist. I am not quite sure on this, but he used a test light ,something about cranking , but it did not work so again he felt that it backed up he idea the module in the dist was bad.

At this point I really do not want to order a new module till I can check my idea about the short cut on the wiring, I need to also confirm why no power on either the run, crank side from switch.

To add to all this , the car is a 69 Cuda, however I updated to a new alt, with the 2 fields on it, so the wiring is modified , running the newer style voltage regulator, which is where the run wire [blue/white] wire is hooked into, so maybe an issue there.

The odd thing is I have had this car running for about 3 years now, only at the end of last year it really started acting up, running poorly, then to no start now.
 
I could write a book on this. Had a buddy of mine here for about 2 hours, he has had a lot of practice with dist. and wiring. We started with checked the new Pertronix coil, which is rated for 0.6 ohms, meter was 0.8 on primary side, then checked the secondary side 8690 ohms which is good reading for the coil. We then hooked + of coil to battery direct, still would not start. So then we checked for power for the crank and start from the switch, found no power I think on the crank { not sure ,getting a messed up in my head], so he says need to make sure ignition switch is ok, but in the mean time wants to double check the Pertronix II dist., checked ignitor plate to battery - ground is good, no signs of the module paper on back side burned so he feels was ok, then he wanted to do the bench test of the unit, I told him that I was sure per Pertronix you can not to do the bench test only the original one, but he still wanted to try it, so we pulled the dist. did the testing, you use a voltage meter, you are to get 12 volts each time you turn the dist,[ each lobe] shaft, but got mostly no reading, so he now feels the unit is bad[ both the dist. and coil are brand new], so he tells me to order a new unit for the dist. and trouble shoot the no power for the crank no ??

So after he leaves, I pull out the ignition switch, check the brown wire for continnuney , thought the bulkhead, for both the run wire which is blue/white stripe, and the crank wire which is brown wire, no problem, no corrosion, check 12 volts to the switch, tried the switch to make sure I did not loose anything inside as to power out was rock solid. So I feel the switch is not the problem. Going back the dist, I reread the email I got from Pertronix, person Andy, it clearly states not to bench test the dist, with Pertronix II module, so I really think the dist. module is not bad.

My bad, I took a short cut with both the old A/M dist and this new unit, in that when I wired the dist red wire, into the wire I had going to the + on the coil, I did not run a full wire from the dist, red to coil, I am think since the dist, red wire in hooked into the wire that it is causing a problem , in the fact that the coil needs to power up and down to build up the high voltage.

So I have added a lead to the red wire from the dist. need to reinstall the dist. and hook all wiring up , reinstall the ignition switch to test my theory.

As a side note when my buddy was here , he also wanted to do a static timing set up check, we did this before pulling the dist. I am not quite sure on this, but he used a test light ,something about cranking , but it did not work so again he felt that it backed up he idea the module in the dist was bad.

At this point I really do not want to order a new module till I can check my idea about the short cut on the wiring, I need to also confirm why no power on either the run, crank side from switch.

To add to all this , the car is a 69 Cuda, however I updated to a new alt, with the 2 fields on it, so the wiring is modified , running the newer style voltage regulator, which is where the run wire [blue/white] wire is hooked into, so maybe an issue there.

The odd thing is I have had this car running for about 3 years now, only at the end of last year it really started acting up, running poorly, then to no start now.
I had zero ohms on all my circuits so I wrongly assumed all my wiring was 100 percent good. Then ppl on this forum tried to explain to me over and over and over again you can have zero ohms but that does NOT mean the circuits can FLOW the necessary current. So I was like duh but everything is zero ohms so how could there be a problem? Then eventually I caught on about this whole volt drop current volume of amps concept others were talking about. Went off read about voltage drops, reread advice I was given, found old threads around here on the subject etc. Walked away from car went off got schooled educated gained knowledge.

When all was said and done I had 11 volts at coil when cranking AND voltage drop between battery and Ignition 1 engine running was a .2 volt drop all indicating my wiring/connections/switches were 100 percent resistance free able to flow the current through the circuits without resistance under load.

And voltage drop testing grounds is critical too. That is a commonly done procedure, but new to me, based on google searches I found.
 
Measuring the sec resistance of an ign coil with a digital meter will lead to a false reading. Something to do with the dig design. Use a moving coil meter. Also, just because a coil measures the correct resistance.....does not mean it works. It could shorting internally under load. So a resistance test only tells you so much....

The reason I believe the Pert modules fail so often....is heat. The module itself is small & there has to be a lot of electronic components in there to do the job, which equals heat generated.
 
The reason I believe the Pert modules fail so often....is heat. The module itself is small & there has to be a lot of electronic components in there to do the job, which equals heat generated.
agreed, it's important to use the heat transfer paste/grease between the module and base plate for just that reason.
neil.
 
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