Agree, heat transfer paste needed; but the heat is being transferred into something that is already very hot, the dist body. [ Or maybe the dist is hot enough that it is transferring heat into the module ]. Either way, there is a lot of heat producing electronic componentry shoved into the small size of that module....& I reckon sometimes it gives up...
Petronix Electronic Ignition Any Good?
- Thread starter Bossanova5
- Start date
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340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Pertronix Igniter, the base product, installation instructions don't say anything about heat transfer paste? Mallory Unilite supplies the paste and instruct you to smear it on maring surface. But since Mallory discontinued rotor for my Unilite its a paper weight now.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
For the record, Mallory didn’t discontinue anything. The jack asses at MSD did.
Which rotor did they discontinue? I still find them for the Comp 9k’s and the Unilite I have.
I knew when MSD bought Mallory it was going to suck.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Uncle Tony said his was junk...
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
MAL-322 which is the 47 series V8 rotor. No longer listed on Mallory web site and Out Of Stock everywhere. I didn't see any on ebay either. Bought distributor around 2009 or so and now its a paper weight. Probably gonna throw it in the trash can.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I just did quick check and I think you have some options. I'm old, so searching on the web sucks. If I had my catalogs here I'd know for sure.
At any rate, I think the rotor that fits the mechanical advance only distributor will work.
If that won't work, then you can still buy the kit to convert that distributor from a female cap to an HEI style cap.
It's a bit spendy but its a much better cap anyway.
And if that doesn't help you I've been looking for that distributor every once in a while. If you don't want it, maybe we can work something out.
Of corse, I'd rather see you keep and use it but if not, I'd be interested.
PM me if you are interested in getting rid of it.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Your inbox is full. Feel free to send me a PM when you get a chance.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
22dog22
Well-Known Member
New update, had my buddy over today, spent about 3 hours on the car. We reinstalled the Pertronix dist., rechecked that we had power from the ignition switch, for crank and run power. Rechecked the firing order of the spark plug wires in the cap, car would try to start, tried advancing/ retarting the dist. would really close to starting, but could not move dist. far enough. We did have timing marks on engine to 10deg. before doing all of this. We finally found the sweet spot to get to run, BUT it would only run for a few minutes, then run rough then would just shut off. We would retry with a jumper wire from the + on the coil so 100 % has 12 volts, the car would still run then die out/stall. We also had a timing light hooked up so we could set the timing and as the car would start to act up the timing light would loose its light, like it was losing spark, we both feel pretty sure it is not the coil, but the Pertronix Ignitor II unit in the dist. have a new one on order.
Sounds like you are on the road to recovery. Good luck, happy motoring.
22dog22
Well-Known Member
Just did some reading on the Pertronix Ignitor- the 1st type and the Ignitor II, like I have, the newer unit also controls the dwell time, it is possible that is the problem not enough time for the coil to charge up for the high voltage needed to fire the plugs.
Yes but, didn't you put in the flame thrower 2 coil? If you did that shouldn't be the problem.
22dog22
Well-Known Member
Yes I put in the Flame Thrower coil in, however , when I 1st installed the Pertronix dist. I tried it with my old high output coil, so I may have damaged the Pertronix unit inside to of the dist. I am going to replace the Pertronix unit inside the dist. at this point we do not what else to try , the engine really seems like it is losing spark[ based on the way the timing light was acting] The Ignitor II , from what I just read , controls the dwell on the coil, so I am guessing maybe the Ignitor II is messing up the coil as far as the power output, I they say that either the Ignitor II works 100% or not at all.????
Yes, that's true it either works or it don't. I think you are on the right path. After you replace the plate, it should be fine. Let me know if that fixes things I'll have to keep it in mind so when my distributor takes a dump, I can get it done/ fixed without all this craziness.
22dog22
Well-Known Member
Not A Happy Camper ! Ok the latest, received the replacement Pertronix II module, was missing the thermal paste that you need to put on the module before you install it. Did some checking was able to buy some at Best Buy, installed module not real hard but you do need to pull the dist. reinstalled the dist. had everything marked as to where the rotor was pointing and where the vacuum advanced unit was so it would be close to the correct timing to start, cranked it over fired up, However seemed like not firing on all cylinders as if the firing order was off. So checked 2 times the firing order of the spark plug wires, then pulled the spark plug wires out of the cap one at a time, did not like the way I had installed the connecters on the spark plug wires so redid all 8 of them used die electric grease, crossed my fingers hoping that all would be good, started car , ran just as bad as before, tried to adjust timing advanced/retard, did not smooth out the engine running , car sounds like a hit and miss engine!!,if you try to give it some throttle, it just would not take it, speed up that is.
The only good is that now it seems to want to stay running as before it would run then just shut down.
Really at a loss as to what to try next!!
The only good is that now it seems to want to stay running as before it would run then just shut down.
Really at a loss as to what to try next!!
Make sure al the plugs are gapped right no broken porcelain and fitting in the boot properly. What size wires are you using. I have 8-mm on mine. Standard wires don't seem to work on my car. Hope this helps.
22dog22
Well-Known Member
Hi Mike, I do have 8mm on mine, with NGK GR4GP g-power platinum plugs, I do not remember what gap I have them at, what plugs are you using ? and the gap ?. Dave
a/c Delco, the gap is 40. I also have E3 plugs but, I haven't tried them yet.
22dog22
Well-Known Member
I keep pluging away on this, just for the hell of it , I pulled all 8 plugs, Ngk gr4gp , plugs, ALL 8 WHERE ALL SCOOTED UP WITH CARBON, I had cleaned prior because they where gas soaked, now they where all scooted up. I am ordering a new set of Champion rn12yc, after cleaning and regapping my plugs to .35, I tried to restart car, it fired up and I was able to rev up the engine , it seemed to clear up , then it popped thought the carb. maybe timing is to retarded?? Will wait for the fresh plugs and adjust the timing more advanced.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
You have to figure out why it’s getting the plugs that dirty.
Start with the idle circuit
Start with the idle circuit
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
you need to gap the plugs at 40=45. The flame thrower is too hot for factory wires that why I said to go to the 8-m/m. My factory wires burned out it was too much current. My car ran fine for about 3 minutes the started to sputter. When I checked the wires 2 of them burned out causing the misfires. If the plugs are gaped wrong, they will burn out also causing the dirty plugs. sounds like the fuel is not burning up all the way. Does this make sense to you. I couldn't believe it either until I corrected everything and my problem went away.
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