Pics of pro-touring Duster with 20s?

-
76orangewagon said:
Billet Specialties SLG 60 front and there recently discontinued Rallye in the rear. I couldn't get the Rallye with the correct Backspacing I needed for the front, so the suggested the SLG 60 "Soft lip" same center pattern design but I could get the required Backspacing needed (5.125")to set the car low and still turn with no issues, I'm also running a HDK K frame to "suck" the wheels in. The tires are 26.5" front and 29" rear
Click to expand...

Did you have to lengthen the rear wheel openings to fit a 29" tire? The rear seems like should be easier to get low. The front you can't just back the bars off. The upper control arm geometry limits spindle height. Was wanting to either make spindles or buy the 2" drop spindles to allow the car to sit low with tall tires. Hate a big wheel on a high riding car.
 
Leon441 said:
Did you have to lengthen the rear wheel openings to fit a 29" tire? The rear seems like should be easier to get low. The front you can't just back the bars off. The upper control arm geometry limits spindle height. Was wanting to either make spindles or buy the 2" drop spindles to allow the car to sit low with tall tires. Hate a big wheel on a high riding car.
Click to expand...

Actually, it's all easy to get low. The rear is a Custom made Triangulated 4 link with 12" QA1 coil overs...fully adjustable. The front is has a HDK (HemiDenny K member) with 10" QA1 coilovers and Wilwood 2" drop spindles..... again full adjustable.
I cut a wedge shape in the front lip of the rear quarters 6" up and 1" forward then re-welded it together to make sure I had enough room for the 29" tire to clear.
 
Uhcoog1 said:
04A6A20D-06C6-4E73-B6D7-B2E82CD7C337_zps68gje7ol.png


3FD1918F-C1C1-42BE-92C1-503D9C55ADAD_zpss2notzro.png


18's with 26.2" tall tire.

If you're going to run 20's, run tall tires (26.5-27.0+"), and make sure the wheel lip tucks in the fenders.
Click to expand...

That is beautiful! My biggest fear with running 18s is the short sidewall looking a little off, but that looks great! If I could get that with a little more dish I'd do handstands!
 
Brandon Weaver said:
That is beautiful! My biggest fear with running 18s is the short sidewall looking a little off, but that looks great! If I could get that with a little more dish I'd do handstands!
Click to expand...

Thanks Brandon.

Dish will be easy for most in the rear (if an A body rear). It is harder up front, as you'll need a decent amount of offset to tuck the wheels in the front fenders. There are some wheels that can still be had with dish and a decent offset, though.

To date I've run 18x9.5's square in both +45 and +38 offset. I am running a 60.5" width rear (roughly 2-3" wider than factory A body). 265/40/18 and 275/40/18 both fit in factory wheelwells (trimming required in front corners). I did give up some turning radius, and I did have to notch the inner fenders. My ride height is at the factory bump stop height or lower (1.5" at bump stop or lower). Running 5/16" bump stops.

My biggest thing for look is tire height. The taller the better! I even looked at 275/45/18 for the rear. If you aren't racing no need to stay square- get a tall back tire for sure.
 
76orangewagon said:
If your considering smaller, you could always go with something like I'm running... 17"x7" with 5.125 B.S front and 17"x11" rear with 4.5" B.S. The rear has to come down another inch still and you could take care of the shiny part with some Plasti Dip spray on coating.
Click to expand...

Now that's a setup I could rock all day long. The 17s aren't obnoxious and with that 29" tire it still looks like its got some meat out back. Can't stand that rubber band look for tires on most big wheels... In particular the 20s and up. What modifications did you have to do to fit those wheels/tires out back? I'm assuming more then I'll be able to afford or do myself lol.

That car looks damn good.
 
DakotaDuster said:
What modifications did you have to do to fit those wheels/tires out back? I'm assuming more then I'll be able to afford or do myself lol.

That car looks damn good.
Click to expand...

Custom made Full wheel tubs, the problem with a "mini-tub" is the curvature of the outer wheel well, it wont allow you to drop the car down over the wheel all the way and still has a semi- jacked up look...everybody runs a 325/50 tire to say they have a 12" wide tire but you never can really get the stance with a tall sidewall that way. If you check out my build thread starting around page 5, there are lots of pictures documenting the entire process. I also bought the wheel and tire combo first and then built the rear end around that combo. Depending on your budget a Custom Billet wheel or even widened steel wheels can get the exact set up you need. A $125 wheel with a pre determined backspacing is usually not going to get you what your looking for in the end without modifying other suspension parts to accommodate them.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0099%20(3).jpg
    37.3 KB · Views: 930
I have enjoyed these post and pictures. It's great that guys are proud of their work and are willing to share ideas. Some of the suspension systems used are less than stellar IMO. If you are not racing a competitive network they are more than fine.

Some heim joint brands do not last. Some shocks don't either. Not going to bad mouth any particular brand.

I am interested in the custom triangulated 4-link. I had my own ideas but was criticised for even thinking about it on moparts. Really a blessing, just don't have the time now.

I know I have a better front suspension on my drag/street car than the aftermarket stuff. 17 years of using and abusing it. Would probably make some minor changes for a car that corners. Didn't build mine for a car that rolls over and needs to keep tire planted. A longer LCA like OEM would probably work better.

Right now just trying to get my twins cars done before they leave home. They deserve nice cars to show off. Should have started this project 5 years ago. Those who know my cuda know what I can do with some time. Unfortunately my kids do to. They just don't realize we just don't have that much time. I do not outsource anything I can do myself. Exterior paint and upholstery I don't do. They are welcome to learn and try though LOL.
 
Doing what you're doing Leon is awesome. Keeping your kids hands on is something they will appreciate later on bigtime. If you got beat up on Moparts it was probably a why reinvent the wheel type of deal. Torsion bars have shown they still work great in a handling car but leaf springs have their limitation when putting down power and not being to stiff.
 
DakotaDuster said:
RJK3, would you mind sharing all the wheel specs and the tire sizes please? That may have just changed my mind on "big" wheels just a little bit. Also do you have any more pictures directly to the side of the car?
Click to expand...

Sorry, just seen this post. I'll get another pic posted and some numbers when I get home this afternoon.
 
RJK3 said:
215/50/ZR17 FRONT 17×7 4.0" BS
235/50/ZR18 REAR 18×8 4.5" BS
[URL=http://s244.photobucket.com/user/rjkofron/media/20150405_161355.jpg.html][/URL]
[URL=http://s244.photobucket.com/user/rjkofron/media/PART951428287382494952015040595170158.jpg.html][/URL]
Click to expand...

RJK3, That is one good looking car.

Are you happy with the US Wheel rims? And would you buy them again? And what brand tire are your running? Sorry for the questions but I am about to pull the trigger on those same wheels I believe through Summit. Thank you again in advance for the information.
 
HammerMX said:
RJK3, That is one good looking car.

Are you happy with the US Wheel rims? And would you buy them again? And what brand tire are your running? Sorry for the questions but I am about to pull the trigger on those same wheels I believe through Summit. Thank you again in advance for the information.
Click to expand...

Unrelated, but I originally bought a pair of US Wheels for my Dart from Summit. They weren't back-ordered and Summit said they'd get to me from the manufacturer in 2 weeks. 2 weeks later comes around and I was told the manufacturer doesn't have my wheel in stock but stated the wrong offset from what I ordered. I corrected Summit and called them a week later. They said the wheel should ship in about a week. So, I contacted the manufacturer directly and received no response. At the 6 week point, with no wheels, I cancelled my order and Summit didn't even hesitate. I ordered a set of Mickey Thomspon SC-5's and 2 days later they came in straight from Summit.

I have a friend who's dealt directly with US Wheels and they are scatter brained and wishy washy. He was buying about 20 sets of Pontiac Rallye wheels for a group of his customers and apparently some of their stock comes from directly from Year One. He'd visit when they said they arrived and they are nowhere to be found. They tell him to come over a week later to pick up the wheels as they said they arrived then, he comes in and the manager says they haven't come in. My buddy had the number of the CEO and called him. The CEO said he'd come down in 5 minutes. 45 minutes later he still didn't show up. My friend ended up talking to the shipping/receiving worker and he pointed him out to where his wheels were located (and that have apparently been sitting there for over 2 weeks).

I wouldn't even try purchasing anyone of their products again. They're known for making custom steel wheels. Anything else is up in the air if they'll ever get you anything.
 
They're B&G rod works wheels.They could be the same,just branded different. I got them through Performance Tire and Wheel. They are a bit heavy, but I like the look. I don't recall the tire brand, I'll put it up this afternoon when I get home. Nothing special, I think they're Chinese. ...lol they aren't permanent though :) Oh! And thank you for the compliment! She's a little bit different, but she's mine!
 
18x10 rear 6.5 backspace +25 offset
18 x9 front 6" backspace +25 offset (plus a 0.25" spacer up front)
245/40/18 front
275/35/18 rear Michelin pilot supersports
 

Attachments

  • image-462954897.jpg
    46 KB · Views: 722
  • image-3223851665.jpg
    34.5 KB · Views: 695
  • image-2946767603.jpg
    46.6 KB · Views: 726
  • image-3141092196.jpg
    64.8 KB · Views: 680
72bluNblu said:
The fact that he just said that about Tom's car, which is probably one of the most capable autoX cars on the site, just demonstrates how ridiculously little he knows about doing anything other than driving in a straight line in perfectly dry conditions.
Click to expand...

Wow! I just read through Tom's build/race thread over on moparts and I see what you mean!! My hat's off to you Tom!! Phenomenal work you've done with that car!! Absolutely love how you're beating high $$$ cars with your stock style suspension car!!!
 
champyfz450 said:
18x10 rear 6.5 backspace +25 offset
18 x9 front 6" backspace +25 offset (plus a 0.25" spacer up front)
245/40/18 front
275/35/18 rear Michelin pilot supersports
Click to expand...


Now that doesn't look bad either...nice ......20" sends it to a different place ....
 
72bluNblu said:
That's Kenny Wayne Shepard's Duster. Built by Ted Moser, not Hotchkis. It actually uses few different Magnumforce suspension parts. It has 18's in the front and 19's in the back, not 20's.

Kenny Wayne Shepherd's 1970 Plymouth Duster - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine

18's are easy, and better for the "pro-touring" look because you can run extra backspace to fit larger tires up front, with 17's you still have to worry about outer tie rod end interference. With 18's the outer tie rod end fits inside the lip of the rim. Better performance tire selection in 18" as well, although pretty much anything that comes in 17" is still light years better than a BFG T/A hockey puck.

The trick to larger diameter rims is getting the ride height right. I think 20's can be done right, but at that point you're losing handling capabilities to the weight of the rim and sacrificing ride quality with the super short sidewalls. Plus the car has to sit VERY low for 20's to look right.

18x9's with 275/35/18's up front and 18x10's with 295/35/18's on my "duster".

IMG_2478a_zpsvmagxna0.jpg


IMG_2484a_zpscao5szar.jpg


IMG_1915_zps32183594.jpg


IMG_2251_zpslw7ccgzu.jpg
Click to expand...
Nice duster. I got a 68 b body rear and I wanted to slam some bullit wheels under it 18x9 and 18x10 in the rear. I was wondering if I had to move my springs in under the frame rails for that.
 
kevpeters1 said:
Nice duster. I got a 68 b body rear and I wanted to slam some bullit wheels under it 18x9 and 18x10 in the rear. I was wondering if I had to move my springs in under the frame rails for that.
Click to expand...

You don’t need to relocate the springs the full 3” to put them in the frame rails and do the mini tub for 18x10’s.

But you should get a 1/2” spring hanger/shackle offset and move the perches to 42” c-c.

I’ve got 18x9’s and 18x10’s on my Duster with a 68-70 b body rear with 275/35/18’s up front and 295/35/18’s our back. But I also have the 1/2” spring offset and I trimmed about a 1/2” off of the quarter lip to do it.
 
Uhcoog1 said:
04A6A20D-06C6-4E73-B6D7-B2E82CD7C337_zps68gje7ol.png


3FD1918F-C1C1-42BE-92C1-503D9C55ADAD_zpss2notzro.png


18's with 26.2" tall tire.

If you're going to run 20's, run tall tires (26.5-27.0+"), and make sure the wheel lip tucks in the fenders.
Click to expand...

Gotta admit, they look better lowered like this, not rubber band tires either .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top