Picture time! Show off what pressurize's your engine!

-
fstfish66 said:
dont think you will be able to get the blower belt behind the water pump and alt belts,,the blower belt would probably hit the water pump,and you would have the water pump pully spaced out so far that the bearings and seal in the water pump would wear out,, ill see if i have a pic of my belt set up ,maybe give you an idea of whats its going to look like,, i also have a fluid dampener,,and i have a custom made lower spacer/pully made, you have to mount the water pump pully and alternator to get the correct deminsion for the V belt groove when you have it made,,
Click to expand...


And yet you still have room for a fan. Man that's tight. (ok not as tight as Mad's engine bay)


Wylde1.
 
Wylde1 said:
And yet you still have room for a fan. Man that's tight. (ok not as tight as Mad's engine bay)


Wylde1.
Click to expand...
i thought of that also, is there any problems with overheating without a shroud?
i still have nightmares about all the times my 318 overheated until i got a fanshroud..

Mad Dart said:
Yeah I know! All under the hood and no scoop was the plan.
Click to expand...

thats the way to go, nothing like a fast car that doesnt look fast! just the thing im trying for also, except i cant get away without a scoop but hoping that it will be under a fairly low scoop atleast
 
mad dart that engine bay looks killer,, ide get a see thru hood

yes tight and still a fan,,,,for years before i got this car off the ground, all i heard is you will never get a 3 inch blower belt in a A body,,much less an early A,,,,

as you can see i dont have an aluminum radiator,,,i had a be cool,,took it out and put the factory style back in,,,it was orignally a 3 row radiator,said to be from a 340 dart, seems to me its from a dodge van,,same deminsions bolted right in....

if you look close you can see, i had the radiator mounting side brackets moved forward,,which pushed the radiator towards the grill about 1/2 inch ,cant remember exactly.,, that gave me enough room to get the mechanical fan mounted, its a cheap flex a lite fan,,but it made a huge difference,, one large electric fan was not cutting it,, i dont like to rely on any thing electric when theres a mechanical choice,,

there is still an electric mounted on the front, and i only turn it on in heavy traffic if its over 95 degrees out side,, the trick is having the mechanical fan in the proper location blades no more then 7/8 inch from the radiator,,,also for got to mention i had the radiator expanded to a 4 row, using the factory tanks,,,it usually runs 178 degrees on the high way

the be kool would of worked im sure,, well maybe,, if i would of moved it closer to the grill to make room for the mechanical fan,,,when i remove the motor to re wire the entire car i wlll re work the front radiator area to except an aluminum radiator just to make it look nicer,,but thats down the road right now,,,,

also having your carbs dialed in properly makes a giant difference in how hot or cool your motor runs,,,
 
71 Duster Slant 6 project. So far, best time was a 7.19@98 in the 1/8.
 

Attachments

  • Picture 036.jpg
    106.8 KB · Views: 5,452
2005 Ram 1500 project.
 

Attachments

  • larry's engine 010.jpg
    80 KB · Views: 1,100
My Ram Rumble Bee 4x4. 11.03@118
 

Attachments

  • ready for st louis 002.jpg
    90.5 KB · Views: 1,102
hemidup said:
71 Duster Slant 6 project. So far, best time was a 7.19@98 in the 1/8.
Click to expand...

Wow...what an impressive-looking engine! Quick, too!

Looks like with all the forced-induction /6 cars being built (and the ones that are already running) a national event (Shoot-out???) might be a possibility, sometime in the future!

Hope our car is going to be competitive!!!! We'll see...
 
Thanks guy's. Hoping to hit high 10's in the 1/4 with the 6. Only had it to the track once. Best 60' was a 1.60. Thinking about a trans brake for next year.
 
You guys have some amazing **** goin'on:read2::read2: I feel like I have a TON of room in comparo to yooos:munky2::toothy10:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1721.jpg
    109.8 KB · Views: 966
  • IMG_1720.jpg
    160.7 KB · Views: 968
  • IMG_0059r2.jpg
    112.1 KB · Views: 969
fstfish66 said:
how does this set up work ??? 5 pounds of boost??? how do you like it??
Click to expand...

451hp and 589tq at the wheels. 6 psi. The B+M blowers are 2 lobe teflon lined rotors. I replaced the seals and the coupling and shaft in the snout, the splines were beat. The 2 lobe rotors have more revision (they tend to chatter back and fourth, instead of just spinning in one direction) than the 3 lobe twisted 71 series rotors. I have close to 100,000 miles on this blower. I have driven this car to Carlisle Pa several times, 225 miles.
 
Okay here it is. I know that I've posted this picture before but it's the only one that I've got. This blower has been on my car since 1988 and I bought it from Dick Landy. Blowers are a whole lotta fun!
 

Attachments

  • Dart Engine 2 LR.jpg
    83.1 KB · Views: 931
Here's what pressurizes my engine, my hood, windows, food, body....

14.7 PSI, baby! All. Day. Long. :supz:

clear_sky.jpg
 
ScottyB said:
this one would probally work better MIRADAMEGACAB.View attachment 215389
Click to expand...

Scotty!!!!!!!!

I was gonna post that pic of my all billet, hard annodized, teflon tipped rotor, 8-71 blower when I get my intake manifold from Australia.

As being that your sharing my secrets post up the GMC 6-71 blower and my adapter plates.

And if I can intrest you in a beer, perhaps you can take a pic of my ProCharger setup too!

LOL
 
sure will do that for a frosty one!!! PERHAPS A BURNOUT VIDEO TOO!?! :toothy5:
 
here it is bud
 

Attachments

  • IMG00705-20110221-1713.jpg
    104.7 KB · Views: 891
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top