Pilot bushing direction

[Beams]

Working on a 1967 273, and need to put a pilot bushing in. The bushing I got from the clutch shop is not the same on both ends. They had placed the more beveled end facing out of the motor on the alignment tool. Is this how it should go? I’m assuming it makes a difference…

As always, appreciate the help.

 

[Jadaharabi]

Use the beveled end at the crankshaft and drive it home with a hammer with a socket with a block of wood. Whatever you want to use to drive it in.

 

[Beams]

Use the beveled end and at the crankshaft and drive it home with a hammer with a socket with a block of wood. Whatever you want to use to drive it in.

Thank you!

 

[CFD244]

I would think the bevel would be used to start the bushing into the pilot hole. Just my opinion though. Good luck.

 

[Jadaharabi]

If you burr the end with a hammer don't worry about it take your pocket knife out and trim the hole. Or use sandpaper either one.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Use the beveled end at the crankshaft and drive it home with a hammer with a socket with a block of wood. Whatever you want to use to drive it in.

What he said! ^^^^^

 

[Beams]

Cracked the bushing… had it in the freezer for a few hours, but it did not want to play. I thought it was going—turned out the socket was digging in to the bushing itself.

I think my local Napa has some in stock. I’ll work on my patience and precision.

This motor did have an automatic transmission attached to it originally. The pilot shaft hole is about 2” deep. Thought I read of some folks smoothing that out.

 

[RustyRatRod]

So it's a cast crank then. You're converting FROM an automatic? You may need to cut about 3/4" off the end of the input shaft of the transmission, as cast crankshafts are not drilled deep enough for a manual transmission. Also, drilling the crankshaft is not recommended, because more often than not, you will drill into an oil passage in the crankshaft and compromise the oiling system causing a leak.

 

[67Dart273]

You may have 2 problems. Not sure if 273's did but 318's/ newer engines do which is:
1: As mentioned, hole from auto car may not be deep enough. Jig up bell on engine, measure carefully from face of bell to bottom of hole, then measure length of gearbox shaft to bell face and make sure it will clear

2: Some auto cranks are not fully finished bored for diameter. You used to get an undersized bushing to fit an "auto" crankshaft

 

[Jadaharabi]

You may have 2 problems. Not sure if 273's did but 318's/ newer engines do which is:
1: As mentioned, hole from auto car may not be deep enough. Jig up bell on engine, measure carefully from face of bell to bottom of hole, then measure length of gearbox shaft to bell face and make sure it will clear

2: Some auto cranks are not fully finished bored for diameter. You used to get an undersized bushing to fit an "auto" crankshaft

Where do you get "an undersized bushing"?

I just measured my 92 LA roller motor crankshaft depth. 2 3/4 inches deep.
I don't really think if you drill the back of the crank you're going to hit an oil passage. There is no oil passage that goes thru the center of the crank main journal. The number 8 rod journal is fed at an angle from the main. Chrysler drilled cranks for years for the pilot bushings.
Isn't there a roller bearing that takes the place of the bronze bushing and makes shifting easier?

 

[SixPaksRule]

The sky is not falling
the back of that crank looks correct for a 4sp - no shaft cutting required
why the op is putting in a bushing instead of the roller bearing is what is important. Use the roller bearing and dial in the bell housing so it is in line with the crank-that is the other really important item. Do not use the bushing. Do not listen to the naysayers, just like timing chain tensioners...they work when installed properly

 

[Syleng1]

Not mentioned here at all but IF you use the bronze bushing- pre soak in oil for 24 hrs. Helps install and input shaft lube.
I was taught that many many years ago when these were new. Never checked to see if it was a FSM thing or just a concoction by a back woods hill billy. I just know it helps all the way around. Good luck. My 66’ 273 was a steel crank auto car 4bbl motor. It had the proper sized for a bushing but we had it cut for the newer style 904 nub.

 

[67Dart273]

The sky is not falling
the back of that crank looks correct for a 4sp - no shaft cutting required
why the op is putting in a bushing instead of the roller bearing is what is important. Use the roller bearing and dial in the bell housing so it is in line with the crank-that is the other really important item. Do not use the bushing. Do not listen to the naysayers, just like timing chain tensioners...they work when installed properly

Let me straighten you out, son. First, you can NOT tell "a correct" crank by looking. The bushing cavities that were drilled undersize look like any other. There is only a few thou difference, I don't remember how much......we used to SELL Dorman undersize bushings

So far as a roller bearing, a 273 WILL NOT ACCEPT a converter bore roller bushing as used in Jeeps, if that is what you are referring to

 

[67Dart273]

Where do you get "an undersized bushing"?

I just measured my 92 LA roller motor crankshaft depth. 2 3/4 inches deep.
I don't really think if you drill the back of the crank you're going to hit an oil passage. There is no oil passage that goes thru the center of the crank main journal. The number 8 rod journal is fed at an angle from the main. Chrysler drilled cranks for years for the pilot bushings.
Isn't there a roller bearing that takes the place of the bronze bushing and makes shifting easier?

I don't keep up with "parts" Dorman used to make them. YES you can hit oil, a couple guys on here have done so. The roller bearing setup that goes in the converter bore does not fit as the 273 converter bore is smaller than a 68 or later LA

 

[67Dart273]

Undersize Pilot Bushing for Mopar 4-Speed .915" Dodge Plymouth Chrysler 340 440 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Undersize Pilot Bushing for Mopar 4-Speed .915" Dodge Plymouth Chrysler 340 440 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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Al's Rapid Transit Mopar Pilot Bushing .915" Automatic Manual Undersize Dodge

One new Al's Rapid Transit bronze under size crankshaft pilot bushing. For automatic Dodge Plymouth Chrysler cars that came with a drilled ...

alsrapidtransit.blogspot.com

READ the top listing, below:

Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

www.brewersperformance.com

BUT the PB5300 DOES NOT FIT earlier cranks:

Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

www.brewersperformance.com

 

[Super-Cuda]

Where do you get "an undersized bushing"?

I just measured my 92 LA roller motor crankshaft depth. 2 3/4 inches deep.
I don't really think if you drill the back of the crank you're going to hit an oil passage. There is no oil passage that goes thru the center of the crank main journal. The number 8 rod journal is fed at an angle from the main. Chrysler drilled cranks for years for the pilot bushings.
Isn't there a roller bearing that takes the place of the bronze bushing and makes shifting easier?

Here's what Brewers Performance says to use.

	Product ID: PB329 PB329 PILOT BUSHING, STANDARD	Details​
Standard replacement pilot bushing, for original 4-speed crankshafts, .940" outside diameter, .754" inside diameter and .875" long. Should measure approximately .750" inside diameter when installed. Will NOT fit original automatic crankshafts, see our PB5300.
Price: $4.95​
	Product ID: PB5300 PB5300 PILOT ROLLER BEARING/ADAPTER	Details​
Roller bearing assembly, fits in the larger 1.815" diameter hole (torque converter register) in crankshaft, ideal for 4-speed transmissions that have had input cut off, or in any crankshaft that won't accept standard bushing. Installs with numbers facing out.
Price: $19.95​

 

[KosmicKuda]

You will have to verify the bore ID. If you broke one already, there's a good chance your crank is drilled, but not honed to the correct diameter to accept a Bronze bushing. The chamfer is a lead-in for the "press" operation. Standard engineering practice.

Go to the manual transmission section and look at the Sticky about 273 pilot bushings.
The roller bearing does NOT fit without mods.

I did this over the summer for my /6.

 

[67Dart273]

Here's what Brewers Performance says to use.

View attachment 1716014977​	Product ID: PB329 PB329 PILOT BUSHING, STANDARD	Details​
Standard replacement pilot bushing, for original 4-speed crankshafts, .940" outside diameter, .754" inside diameter and .875" long. Should measure approximately .750" inside diameter when installed. Will NOT fit original automatic crankshafts, see our PB5300.
Price: $4.95​	View attachment 1716014978​
View attachment 1716014979​	Product ID: PB5300 PB5300 PILOT ROLLER BEARING/ADAPTER	Details​
Roller bearing assembly, fits in the larger 1.815" diameter hole (torque converter register) in crankshaft, ideal for 4-speed transmissions that have had input cut off, or in any crankshaft that won't accept standard bushing. Installs with numbers facing out.
Price: $19.95​

As I mentioned earlier, this will NOT fit the earlier engines with the small converter bore...............

 

[RustyRatRod]

Where do you get "an undersized bushing"?

I just measured my 92 LA roller motor crankshaft depth. 2 3/4 inches deep.
I don't really think if you drill the back of the crank you're going to hit an oil passage. There is no oil passage that goes thru the center of the crank main journal. The number 8 rod journal is fed at an angle from the main. Chrysler drilled cranks for years for the pilot bushings.
Isn't there a roller bearing that takes the place of the bronze bushing and makes shifting easier?

I mentioned that because Roy, (SGBARRACUDA) (RIP) did it on one and hit an oil gallery and ruined a crank. He had first hand experience. I agree with you and would never have thought it would happen, but it did with Roy.

 

[RustyRatRod]

The sky is not falling
the back of that crank looks correct for a 4sp - no shaft cutting required
why the op is putting in a bushing instead of the roller bearing is what is important. Use the roller bearing and dial in the bell housing so it is in line with the crank-that is the other really important item. Do not use the bushing. Do not listen to the naysayers, just like timing chain tensioners...they work when installed properly

Nobody's naysaying anything. We're simply trying to make SURE of what he has. That's the first thing he needs to do. It COULD BE drilled for a manual transmission. We are simply telling him the pitfalls if it is not.....in other words, telling him to VERIFY. Is there a problem with THAT somewhere in your world?

 

[Beams]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. Slow morning hosting family.

I’m fairly certain the crank is drilled for manual transmission, but will measure to confirm. We have a later 318, where the hole is much shallower. Thanks @67Dart273 for the confirmation on the diameter. Hard to believe that bushing is 20 bucks plus 5 for shipping… I guess we have to pay to play!

 

[67Dart273]

I'm not exactly suggesting you buy it. Just for reference. You may be able to find something less expensive. I've never dealt with them, but many on here seem very pleased with help they got from Brewer's Performance. You might give them a call.

 

[Beams]

I'm not exactly suggesting you buy it. Just for reference. You may be able to find something less expensive. I've never dealt with them, but many on here seem very pleased with help they got from Brewer's Performance. You might give them a call.

Honestly appreciate the insight. Called around to my local old-school shops, and didn’t have any luck. Was crossing my fingers that someone had one in the back room or something. No luck.

I ordered the bushing off of eBay. Crazy—now that I know what the problem is, I see countless threads on the issue. Thanks again for the help.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. Slow morning hosting family.

I’m fairly certain the crank is drilled for manual transmission, but will measure to confirm. We have a later 318, where the hole is much shallower. Thanks @67Dart273 for the confirmation on the diameter. Hard to believe that bushing is 20 bucks plus 5 for shipping… I guess we have to pay to play!

Good good. Sounds like you're familiar with the differences. We weren't trying to spread doom and gloom at all....just wanted to make sure you knew what was up. Sounds like you do!

 

[Daves69]

FWIW, if some dimensions can help, I have these off a 440 Auto crank. The red is the very end of the crank. Consider the 2.120" dim. to be standard for an un-cut input shaft/bell difference.
Your depth may differ depending on the crank end to block dim. ......

If you can, better off to press the bushing in rather than hammering on it. Maybe a good puller can work for that. However you install it, it needs clearance for the shaft. I go for .0025-.004". A bit of grease inside before the trans install.

Lol, way back, for an auto crank, I "turned" down the OD of a standard pilot bushing using a 3/4" shaft, a belt sander fixed in a vise, and a 0-1" barrel mic.