plumbers,carpenters, need some help

-
DRENO

DRENO

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2009
Messages
4,132
Reaction score
43
Location
Winnipeg,Canada
I discovered a bulge in the vinyl flooring next to the toilet so I removed the toilet and sure enough the subfloor was rotten.i cut back the vinyl til there was no more wet spot showing and grabbed my circular saw and made a cut a few inches outside the bad area and down just deeper than the subfloor. tried to pry up the sub to remove it and discovered it was 'GLUED" down! I have a 2ft. square section cutout. If that wasn't enough there is also a section of main floor underneath that is rotten. I' m running out of beers and ideas.Help?
 
I have ran into glued floors many times. Cut out all the rotten while leaving half of the stud exposed so you have something to nail to and replace the bad. I always like to add blocks across the studs so I have something to nail to on all four sides.

Some pictures may help us help you.
 
Yup. cut out all that is rotted. Even cut the rotted part of the floor joists. Use a saws all, (reciprocating saw for the educated),. Scab a new piece of floor joist to the old joist. Use screws to do this, it's easier than nails. Then install new flooring layers as required to get back to floor height. It's not that hard of a job, just takes time. Remember to always catch half a joist with each side of your patch.

Jack
 
My intent was to just remove the sublfloor and replace it, but now I will have to remove both layers. Biggest hassle is cutting round the water supply coming out of the wall and around the flange. my recip saw is at the lake so I am using a circular saw. just wondering how you cut out where the joists are when you use a recip saw. just guessing you lay it down and cut across he top of joist as best you can. With the skill saw I just set the depth. Thanksfor the replies guys. Is the flange glued to the pipe,do I have to cut it off to remove it?
 
yes, the flange is normally glued to the pipe. You may be able to get new wood under it in 2 pieces... If you could use 2 layers that are 1/2 thickness, then you can put a seam in each "repair" layer under the flange, making your seams perpendicular to each other. (one seam north-south, the other East-west)
 
69B-Cuda said:
yes, the flange is normally glued to the pipe. You may be able to get new wood under it in 2 pieces... If you could use 2 layers that are 1/2 thickness, then you can put a seam in each "repair" layer under the flange, making your seams perpendicular to each other. (one seam north-south, the other East-west)
Click to expand...


He is talking about the floor being glued together.
 
First of all, get yer Sawzall, you need it for this job. Then cut next to the joist, don't try to ride the joist 1/2 on it. You can add a rail attached to the side of the joist at the height you need to only use one layer of 3/4" plywood for your patch. Geof
 
69B-Cuda said:
yes, the flange is normally glued to the pipe. You may be able to get new wood under it in 2 pieces... If you could use 2 layers that are 1/2 thickness, then you can put a seam in each "repair" layer under the flange, making your seams perpendicular to each other. (one seam north-south, the other East-west)
Click to expand...

Thanks,I thought it was. It looks like it's in good condition so I was thinking of your idea of 2 pieces. Never thought about the perpendicular idea, that's sounds good. Thinking of going to a dual flush toilet, good idea or not necessary. I think they use a different flange.
 
Dual flush uses same flange. Difference is most have a 2 half button system.Half the button pushed down changes water for urine and push the whole button down to flush waste.
 
daredevil said:
Dual flush uses same flange. Difference is most have a 2 half button system.Half the button pushed down changes water for urine and push the whole button down to flush waste.
Click to expand...

Well that's good to know cause I think the old toilet (14 years old) was using a lot of water to flush
 
Chk on the "upgraded" toilets. Quite a few nowadays that are eco friendly also offer a $$ rebate/kickback. Like Cosgig said you can add braces to the existing joists to make it easier to nail/screw the subfloor down. Chk with the hardware store about brackets for replacing a rotted section of joist. Or you can do what Coyote Jack said and lay "patches" on either side of it. If its accessible. Putting the toilet on with the new gasket is usually a 2 man job to make sure the wax seal is on correctly. Good luck and happy flushing!
 
cosgig said:
First of all, get yer Sawzall, you need it for this job. Then cut next to the joist, don't try to ride the joist 1/2 on it. You can add a rail attached to the side of the joist at the height you need to only use one layer of 3/4" plywood for your patch. Geof
Click to expand...

I have seen it done that way but it allows a bigger area for water penetration and it is never as solid as the flooring being put on a joist unless you can put a full length board from support to support in there. Water is your enemy here. A friend of mine had to rip his floor up and redo it because the inspector flagged it when he sold his house.
 
View attachment IMG_0757.jpg

Yea I know it's a big hole but I went about 11/2" -2" outside the bad stuff to make sure. I am going to scab some pieces on on the right and left sides. Don't worry about the saw cuts that went over at the corners we're getting new flooring in a couple of weeks. The dog murdered the vinyl with his claws so Lori said she wants new floors,kind of a hard vinyl that looks like ceramic tile. We were told the dog couldn't hurt it. Thanks for all the help guys ,but then again this is FABO so I'm not too surprised.
 
Is that going through your ducting system?

Bigger hole is better since it will be further away from the water should there be an overflow or a leak.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Is that going through your ducting system?

Bigger hole is better since it will be further away from the water should there be an overflow or a leak.
Click to expand...

Yea,that's a duct alright, return or fresh air, not too sure just what you call it. I have all the plywood cut and fit just need to screw it down,of course I don't have the right screws and it's a holiday so it will have to wait. I have to work on the heater in my car anyway,the blower motor won't go,just had it recored. It would be nice to have heat it's starting to get a little cool.
 
Return air duct is fine..just make you seal the ring good lol..

You will need to install a support joist to the underside of the sub floor where you over shot the joist when cutting out the layers... build your floors back up then redo the tile of choicle...
 
I hope you did as 68er said and scabbed a piece under the edge where you overshot the joist in the right of the photo. If not it will always be flexing there.

I see you have one of my favorite tools there. A Dewalt 18 volt impact driver.

Jack
 
Coyote Jack said:
I hope you did as 68er said and scabbed a piece under the edge where you overshot the joist in the right of the photo. If not it will always be flexing there.

I see you have one of my favorite tools there. A Dewalt 18 volt impact driver.

Jack
Click to expand...

Did you mean the left side, or have I missed something in that pic. Looks like enough lumber under there park on.
 
magnumdart said:
Did you mean the left side, or have I missed something in that pic. Looks like enough lumber under there park on.
Click to expand...

He is talking about the right side where it is cut past the floor joist. That are is now floating loose if he didn't add some wood to support it.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0757.jpg
    9 KB · Views: 127
Oklacarcollecto said:
He is talking about the right side where it is cut past the floor joist. That are is now floating loose if he didn't add some wood to support it.
Click to expand...

Oh yea. I get it now. It looked at first like there was another joist under the right side and the one you can see is an added one. Still looks like the left side could use a scab. Course its all done now.
 
Don't worry guys supports have been scabbed on where needed. It's plenty solid. Sorry didn't take pics with the support pieces in. One question,though, would you put screws through both boards at once or screw down the boards one at a time? I don't think it makes much difference.
 
6pk2goDemon said:
What a shitty job LOL :eek:ops: Nice work though !!
Click to expand...

Thanks C . I thought I did ok for a first timer. If I had to do it again it wouldn't take nearly as long. Don't tell anyone but I wore my wife's rubber dishwashing gloves . :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top