Post your Dash Pics

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Mike69barracuda said:
Tell me more about the chrome paint pen and your source. THX
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The chrome paint pens came from eBay, it has a "the parts place" logo on it, cheap, easy to use on raised letters etc. It's certainly not chrome plate, but it made my crusty IP presentable. I was very pleased with the bang for the buck. As a side note, I sprayed the large top section with Duplicolor chrome but unlike the pen, I had to clear coat it because it was chaulky. Clear coat cut the duplicolor's metallic property to a shiny silver grey.

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Just finished this today .Took a little over a month . Using 1/4" plexi glass and an old instrument frame. marked and rewired dash.
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question on dash bezel - If I take out the 6 screws attaching bezel and the knobs will this allow bezel to tilt out a bit to access instrument bulbs? on a '68..
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My 69 doesn’t have a lower pad, not sure if it’s in the way, and mine has a few more screws, like one by the glove box end, makes me wonder if you’ve got one behind it. After that what will give you the most wiggle room is to disconnect the (battery first) speedometer cable. The little bulb sockets are cheap on eBay. The edges of the bezel are sharp and will scratch paint so protect your column and dash. A few of the bottom ones are easier from underneath.
 
As mentioned info battery 1st thing and Speedo cable. Remove front seat(way easier to lay on floor. Heat cables may need to be removed I think???Drop column.
I dread doing this but I gotta get the tach out and recalibrated.
Make a list before doing it and do it all at once to save the bs

Dave NEO said:
question on dash bezel - If I take out the 6 screws attaching bezel and the knobs will this allow bezel to tilt out a bit to access instrument bulbs? on a '68..View attachment 1715144826
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4spdragtop said:
As mentioned info battery 1st thing and Speedo cable. Remove front seat(way easier to lay on floor. Heat cables may need to be removed I think???Drop column.
I dread doing this but I gotta get the tach out and recalibrated.
Make a list before doing it and do it all at once to save the bs
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I seem to recall Classic industries had tachometer with modern circuitry around $200. I debated installing one in mine though it wasn't on it originally
 
Yeah the repops read 0-8000 i believe. Mine is factory with the modern guts. But they didn' calibrate it properly. Reads way high.
B'cuda said:
I seem to recall Classic industries had tachometer with modern circuitry around $200. I debated installing one in mine though it wasn't on it originally
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You can't simply remove a few screws and knobs and pull the plastic bezel away from the instrument housing. If you wanted to pull the assembly out just at enough to change all the light bulbs, you might not need to separate light switch or wiper switch knobs and bezel nuts. Maybe not feck with the climate controller. I can't say I've ever taken one halfway out. Anyway...
How to R&R the inst' panel is found in factory service manuals. Many of those are free downloads. Up to 71 model is the same procedure.
It doesn't say anything about removing front seat or laying in the floor. You wouldn't set a front bench out by yourself anyway.
At the same time, The following isn't in their instructions either.
The speedometer cable is captured by a sheet metal strap under the drivers seat area. With the cable freed there it will pull it into the cabin ( the opposite of how it was originally assembled ). I actually use that cable to push a otherwise freed panel out of the dash 6 inches or so. Of course the steering column was dropped. If I'm completely removing the panel to the workbench, the speedo cable is the last thing disconnected and the first thing reconnected. It serves as a helper/extra hand. Eventually I'll have to go to the firewall grommet and push the cable back outside while maneuvering the inst' panel back into the dash opening. Beyond jacking the car up a bit to reach that sheet metal strap, What work isn't done while on my knees outside the drivers door, is done while sitting in the seat(s).
 
zigs said:
It will allow a little room. Getting 67/69 dashes moved even a little bit sucks
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Problem is , is when you get it loose and tilt it forward you can not get to the top bulbs . when changing bulbs I just snaked my hands through the wiring. Cluster is not user friendly.
 
thanks for comments. I suppose I will at least remove screws and see..looking up there from underneath I really could not see anything reachable..
 
Dave NEO said:
thanks for comments. I suppose I will at least remove screws and see..looking up there from underneath I really could not see anything reachable..
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Dave, safe to say there is always more than one way to skin a cat. Depending on which bulbs are bad, how big your hands are etc., it can be a P.I.A. I had mine completely out, changed all the bulbs, and over the past 36 yrs I've changed single bulbs in her quite a few times. In those cases I only did what I had to. On the driver's side, I've taken the one screw holding the fuse block out and removed headlamp switch to gain access to a few, but you have a clutch pedal where your head would be. I've taken the bezel half out, disconnected the Speedo, rotated the cluster clockwise abit, while moving the temp cables and bringing the passenger end farthest out. Do like they say, if working on top drop the steering shaft, more room and you won't scratch it up. Protect your paint!
 
6pakattack said:
I would have someone else change the dash out, I was wondering if it's doable ?
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Are you talking the whole dash ? or just dash
cluster. As I found out the 67/69 clusters don't inner change with anything other than those three years. I wanted to change mine for a 72 Duster but was not willing to hack up the dash to do so. I guess it all depends on your skill level and imagination. There's some guys on here that are very talented.
Search the threads and see what some of them have done
 
zigs said:
Are you talking the whole dash ? or just dash
cluster. As I found out the 67/69 clusters don't inner change with anything other than those three years. I wanted to change mine for a 72 Duster but was not willing to hack up the dash to do so. I guess it all depends on your skill level and imagination. There's some guys on here that are very talented.
Search the threads and see what some of them have done
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I'm talking about the whole dash, frame work and all !!
 
6pakattack said:
I'm talking about the whole dash, frame work and all !!
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You would have to take the windshield out to access the 5 bolts under that gasket, or remove EVERYTHING on the inside of the firewall and go under the dash with a die grinder. Sure its been done. Modifying the panel opening in the standard dash has been done also. Either way you have to really really want a rally dash. Complete like new instruments and bezel could easily cost a grand.
 
6pakattack said:
I'm talking about the whole dash, frame work and all !!
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Are you trying to get away from the 67/69
style? . like said yes its do able. I always thought if I could make it fit , I would swop the early PT cruiser dash. I have no idea if it would work , never went any further then a thought.
 
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