Pro Flo 4 Timing

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Decided to work on my ProFlo3 engine today that had the same issues as discussed here. Found what I already knew in that the rotor phasing is off.

Here is what I found with the engine at 25* BTDC.

ECB317B5-B5A3-41EC-BA4E-CEE2C7971A4A.jpeg


Installed the MSD adjustable rotor so hopefully as with the ProFlo4 this problem will no longer exist.
 
Mopar73340 said:
Decided to work on my ProFlo3 engine today that had the same issues as discussed here. Found what I already knew in that the rotor phasing is off.

Here is what I found with the engine at 25* BTDC.

View attachment 1715734457

Installed the MSD adjustable rotor so hopefully as with the ProFlo4 this problem will no longer exist.
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Edelbrock just need to admit that they have an issue with rotor phasing because they’ve set it up to have perfect alignment at 12 degrees and used a narrow rotor that will struggle to work correctly at normal total timing figures.
Their Super Moderator is in denial & is happy to latch on to any other reason for the issues being experienced - timing chain stretch and moving the drive by one tooth has got nothing to do with poor rotor phasing.
 
Does the skinny tooth look too far in? They say in the manual just entering the pickup. I just got the Adj rotor today.

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BergmanAutoCraft said:
Initially almost anything will work. It’s once the timing advances, the problem starts.
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I’ve had it running since last summer. It’s never really ran great. It’s a 416 motor. I’m just kinda starting over to see if I’m missing anything. The crank is set at 12 degrees. The rotor is showing arcing of the leading edge as well.
 
I'm working on the pro flow 4 in a Gen 2 Hemi. So far manifold had to be trimmed to fit the distributor and no mount of the coil on the manifold. Running out of room on fenders, with ECU, Filter mount and an MSD box. Going away for two weeks to be continued when I return. Nothing is a drop in and go. That's why it takes so long to do anything because you try and think it all out and you still F--k it up.
 
daveomatic said:
I’ve had it running since last summer. It’s never really ran great. It’s a 416 motor. I’m just kinda starting over to see if I’m missing anything. The crank is set at 12 degrees. The rotor is showing arcing of the leading edge as well.
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If you did the setup correctly, locked timing at 12* then verified with your timing light the distributor is where it needs to be. Once done with that step you need to unlock the timing so the computer can control the timing. If you Look at my pictures above you can see the rotor looks as you describe yours. I have my timing set @ 22* @ idle and 32* total at 3K rpm with some vacuum advance added. Make sure your timing is working. Most likely your going to have to get the adjustable rotor as discussed above to make it work.

Also when you make changes, clear the self learn as per the instructions.
 
Once I straightened out the phasing, the system is flawless. I also shortened the distributor to fit under the wiper motor. I’m at 20 initial/30 total. This is similar to where I wound up when I ran this engine on the dyno before installing. 410,11:3, hydraulic roller

D64059D3-59C9-4D3B-B74E-A69296D7E247.jpeg
 
Mopar73340 said:
If you did the setup correctly, locked timing at 12* then verified with your timing light the distributor is where it needs to be. Once done with that step you need to unlock the timing so the computer can control the timing. If you Look at my pictures above you can see the rotor looks as you describe yours. I have my timing set @ 22* @ idle and 32* total at 3K rpm with some vacuum advance added. Make sure your timing is working. Most likely your going to have to get the adjustable rotor as discussed above to make it work.

Also when you make changes, clear the self learn as per the instructions.
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I installed the rotor last night. Im still learning on the optimum place for the rotor position.
 
My car, automatic seems to spend a lot of time around 30* so I set the rotor at 30*. All good!
 
Mopar73340 said:
If you did the setup correctly, locked timing at 12* then verified with your timing light the distributor is where it needs to be. Once done with that step you need to unlock the timing so the computer can control the timing. If you Look at my pictures above you can see the rotor looks as you describe yours. I have my timing set @ 22* @ idle and 32* total at 3K rpm with some vacuum advance added. Make sure your timing is working. Most likely your going to have to get the adjustable rotor as discussed above to make it work.

Also when you make changes, clear the self learn as per the instructions.
Click to expand...
If you get any type of popping or breaking up as you try to accelerate, you'll know there is a problem. This was apparent to me right away when I set the system up. I scratched my head for months until I got into looking at it more carefully. As soon as I slotted the reluctor, the system starting working as designed. Edelbrock was of zero help, locked the thread, then said there's nothing wrong..
 
BergmanAutoCraft said:
If you get any type of popping or breaking up as you try to accelerate, you'll know there is a problem. This was apparent to me right away when I set the system up. I scratched my head for months until I got into looking at it more carefully. As soon as I slotted the reluctor, the system starting working as designed. Edelbrock was of zero help, locked the thread, then said there's nothing wrong..
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I actually was getting some popping last night. Did you mean rotor?
 
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I changed mine a few weeks ago, see pictures below. I have run the engine only at idle and around the park infornt of my house since its raining daily now :( I have not been able to test it "properly" but the engine does feel smoother at idle.

How many degrees did you guys dialed in?, in my case I added 5 degrees.
 
I didn’t add a specific number of degrees. I rotated the engine to 30 degrees and made sure the rotor was closer to the #1 terminal on the cap.
 
I tested it with +5 degrees and it ran better at idle, but when stepping on the gas at higher RPM it felt silght hesitation, I changed it to -5 and it ran like crap, so ended up adding just +2 degrees and ran better at idle and no more hesitation at high rpm full gas.

Has anyone added a ignition box to improve spark overall?. There is usually people that awear the engine improved a lot and others say dont waste your money if you have a good stock system its good for any normal/hot street application.

I have only an MSD blaster 2 coil driven directly by the edelbrock ECU. would be interesting to learn what others are using and the results are.
 
As I mentioned above, My car that is an automatic is set at 22* @ idle and 32* total @ 3K with 10* of vacuum advance. As soon as you’re on the gas timing seems to be 25* and cruising seems to be in the 30’s. I set my engine at 30* BTDC and set the rotor at the #1 plug tower. Runs and starts great now.
 
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BergmanAutoCraft said:
No box necessary. I run 30 degrees total with 11:3 compression. What are your af specs?
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my AF settings are 13.4 for idle, 13.9 for cruising, and 12.5 for accel.

timing is set to 12 for idle, advance start 1400, total spark 29 total spark RPM 2600, vacuum advance 5

engine is 12.5 CR @ 7200 ft above sea level
 
Bringing this thread back!

It's the biggest thread I have found on the Pro FLo 4 system so I thought I would chose this one to post in.

First off, just got my engine back from IMM. Brian dynoed it with his carb and distributor but it does have the Pro Flo intake and rails on it. The car is not ready for the engine so I am just preparing.

For right now I am trying to get a couple of final parts in preparation for the install.

Should I just go ahead and buy the MSD rotor? I have the Edelbrock supplied distributor that came with the Pro Flo 4. MSD Ignition 8421 MSD Distributor Rotors | Summit Racing

Also, the car is stripped and has no wiring. Should I go with an internally ore externally regulated alternator. I am going to be running a fan, EFI w/ in tank pump, and EPAS power steering. No stereo, no other electronics. What amp alternator?
 
go-fish said:
Bringing this thread back!

It's the biggest thread I have found on the Pro FLo 4 system so I thought I would chose this one to post in.

First off, just got my engine back from IMM. Brian dynoed it with his carb and distributor but it does have the Pro Flo intake and rails on it. The car is not ready for the engine so I am just preparing.

For right now I am trying to get a couple of final parts in preparation for the install.

Should I just go ahead and buy the MSD rotor? I have the Edelbrock supplied distributor that came with the Pro Flo 4. MSD Ignition 8421 MSD Distributor Rotors | Summit Racing

Also, the car is stripped and has no wiring. Should I go with an internally ore externally regulated alternator. I am going to be running a fan, EFI w/ in tank pump, and EPAS power steering. No stereo, no other electronics. What amp alternator?
Click to expand...
The easiest way to deal with the timing issue that Edelbrock says doesn’t exist is to purchase the MSD adjustable rotor. The correct number is earlier in the thread.
I’ve deal with Brian at IMM. Great guy. I’d love to know your engine specs and dyno results.
As far as the alternator goes, the power master units fit obviously as they are based on stock units. As long as your at idle amp demand is 50 or below you’ll be ok.
 
I agree with the above post. Read the posts above about timing and get the adjustable rotor. I’m running a stock Alt with basically the MAD bypass and have no issues running the fuel pump, ProFlo4, and electric fan even with the A/C on so anything rated at or above the stock specs for an A/C car should work.
 
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go-fish said:
Bringing this thread back!

It's the biggest thread I have found on the Pro FLo 4 system so I thought I would chose this one to post in.

First off, just got my engine back from IMM. Brian dynoed it with his carb and distributor but it does have the Pro Flo intake and rails on it. The car is not ready for the engine so I am just preparing.

For right now I am trying to get a couple of final parts in preparation for the install.

Should I just go ahead and buy the MSD rotor? I have the Edelbrock supplied distributor that came with the Pro Flo 4. MSD Ignition 8421 MSD Distributor Rotors | Summit Racing

Also, the car is stripped and has no wiring. Should I go with an internally ore externally regulated alternator. I am going to be running a fan, EFI w/ in tank pump, and EPAS power steering. No stereo, no other electronics. What amp alternator?
Click to expand...

Brian built my motor too. It's been running good for the pat 6 years. I do plan to give it a refresh though before I go EFI. Just to make sure it's still healthy.


BergmanAutoCraft said:
The easiest way to deal with the timing issue that Edelbrock says doesn’t exist is to purchase the MSD adjustable rotor. The correct number is earlier in the thread.
I’ve deal with Brian at IMM. Great guy. I’d love to know your engine specs and dyno results.
As far as the alternator goes, the power master units fit obviously as they are based on stock units. As long as your at idle amp demand is 50 or below you’ll be ok.
Click to expand...

@BergmanAutoCraft did you see on the Edelbrock forums how Edelbrock shutdown the threads regarding the distributor phasing? They probably figure that the small block Mopar is more of a niche platform, so they don't want to believe that there could be issues.
 
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