I know. I started the thread.
Pro Flo 4 Timing
- Thread starter JD Erisman
- Start date
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plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Do you have to use the Edelbrock distributor? I have an msd pro-billet locked out with the adjustable rotor already. I'm running fitech, but am considering swapping to the proflo. I didn't want to have to modify the dist. or the manifold tho.
Depending on your level of expertise, it can be done. For most though, you want to use their distributor. Unfortunately it’s taller than a common MSD replacement distributor. I wanted a sanitary look, so I shortened the housing to gain clearance between the wiper motor and the spark plug boots.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
So it doesn't need modified unless you wanted to?
Their distributor will fit in an A body, but wire clearance at the wiper motor is very tight.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Gotcha. It's pretty tight now with the MSD. Lol.
Yes to the MSD adjustable rotor. I am running a Powermaster 95 amp one-wire alternator (8ga.). I think it's a cleaner install. I'm running 2 amps and a stereo system, in-tank fuel pump, electric door locks, headlight relays and Octane Lighting H4 Halogen conversion lights, Vintage Air a/c, power & heated driver seat (Altima) and a power tailgate window in a 68 Coronet Wagon. I run Powermaster one-wire alternators in my other classic cars as well. The engine is a 318/390 stroker with Pro Flo 4.
Ain't technology great (sarcasm indicated)
Rotor is a no brainer, cheap easy fix to a problem that will annoy you.
I used a denso alternator from a van, I used a Chrysler alt because I prefer an external regulator. 90A, medium frame, charges full voltage at idle with a 2:1 pulley ratio (5.25 crank, 62mm alt).
I have electric fan, fuel pump, second fan for the trans cooler and I have an electric water pump I'm thinking about running off the second fan control in the ECU.
I've got a question myself. Is anyone running a CDI box? I'm looking at an 8hp70 swap and tq management is key to trans life.
The box that allows the trans to work without seeing all the rest of the computers in the car has an output that is pulled low when the transmission wants to see reduced torque.
Other aftermarket ecus have timing retard options for nitrous or general inputs that can trigger whatever you want.
I'm considering a CDI box with a nitrous retard function, not using any of the timing or rpm controls except the nitrous input to pull timing at shifts (100-300ms).
I know that another user in the Edelbrock forums had success limiting rpm using the 2-step function on one, so I'm hopeful, but I was hoping someone here could chime in.
The box that allows the trans to work without seeing all the rest of the computers in the car has an output that is pulled low when the transmission wants to see reduced torque.
Other aftermarket ecus have timing retard options for nitrous or general inputs that can trigger whatever you want.
I'm considering a CDI box with a nitrous retard function, not using any of the timing or rpm controls except the nitrous input to pull timing at shifts (100-300ms).
I know that another user in the Edelbrock forums had success limiting rpm using the 2-step function on one, so I'm hopeful, but I was hoping someone here could chime in.
What engine management system are you using?
Pro-flo 4. Edelbrock supports CDI boxes for multi spark, but not timing control for the obvious reasons.
I'm not looking to do anything more than a quick timing retard during shifts, I'm wondering if anyone is running a CDI box and using the 2 step, or nitrous retard options and how well it's working.
I played on my setup with the adjustable MSD cap last year, my baseline situation was that the car ran well in general, only in some cases at full throttle and high RPM y noticed some instant hesitation and backfire. After playing withe the timing in the app and so on I could not get rid of it so I got the cap and installed it.
Installation was a breeze, adjustment is easy as well. Nobody had a reference on hoy many degrees they tuned their cap to, base on pictures and visually I set it to 5 degrees advanced. The car felt good at low RPM, but then at high RPM the hesitation worsened.
I then retarded it 5 degrees, thinking I may have done the change to the incorrect side. It just took a short drive to realize this did not wor at all. So I backed it up to zero, as it was initially.
By looking at all the parameters in the full digital view I noticed there was always some amount of vacuum, regardles of full throttel driving, etc, it never got to zero, so it was always adding some advance since I had 5 degrees of vacuum advance set. There are some videos and posts where this issue is explained as well, it seems an incorrect reading from the sensor at the application, just like the voltage value.
I went back to play with the parameters in the edelbrock application, at the end I was able to solve this eventual issue with parameters modifications only. I ended up with 11 degrees idle spark (I live at 7200 ft above sea level and my engine has 12.5:1 compression), start advance at 1150 (Hughes cam shakes the car too much at lower RPM
, a total spark advance of 29 degres and full advance at 2000 RPM (I have a 2.73 rear end gear ratio, so you can drive it still even with full advance at low 2k). With this the car pulls hard and there is no hestitation at any RPM, hopefully will test it at the dyno soon.
So, In summary in my case the adjustable cap did not make that much of a difference for the problem I had, it could be adjusted with the application settings.
Take care,
Installation was a breeze, adjustment is easy as well. Nobody had a reference on hoy many degrees they tuned their cap to, base on pictures and visually I set it to 5 degrees advanced. The car felt good at low RPM, but then at high RPM the hesitation worsened.
I then retarded it 5 degrees, thinking I may have done the change to the incorrect side. It just took a short drive to realize this did not wor at all. So I backed it up to zero, as it was initially.
By looking at all the parameters in the full digital view I noticed there was always some amount of vacuum, regardles of full throttel driving, etc, it never got to zero, so it was always adding some advance since I had 5 degrees of vacuum advance set. There are some videos and posts where this issue is explained as well, it seems an incorrect reading from the sensor at the application, just like the voltage value.
I went back to play with the parameters in the edelbrock application, at the end I was able to solve this eventual issue with parameters modifications only. I ended up with 11 degrees idle spark (I live at 7200 ft above sea level and my engine has 12.5:1 compression), start advance at 1150 (Hughes cam shakes the car too much at lower RPM
, a total spark advance of 29 degres and full advance at 2000 RPM (I have a 2.73 rear end gear ratio, so you can drive it still even with full advance at low 2k). With this the car pulls hard and there is no hestitation at any RPM, hopefully will test it at the dyno soon.So, In summary in my case the adjustable cap did not make that much of a difference for the problem I had, it could be adjusted with the application settings.
Take care,
Also installed a holley hyperspark EFI box about 2 months ago, I went for this one because it was as simple as it gets and its intended to be used on EFI systems. I did not want nor needed further adjustments or functions, just amplify the spark as it came out of the Proflo 4, single spark, capacitive discharge. You can see (hear) in the videos the difference in spark power.
I placed the spark box in the place where I hade the procomp vacuum canister, after realizing the cam provides enough vacuum I got rid of it, the simpler the better, in my opinion.
stock:
with hyperspark:
I placed the spark box in the place where I hade the procomp vacuum canister, after realizing the cam provides enough vacuum I got rid of it, the simpler the better, in my opinion.
stock:
with hyperspark:
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Lots of info packed into your posts. Are you saying you ultimately moved to a Holley Hyperspark distributor WITH the Proflo 4? And just adjust the timing settings in the handheld and leave the distributor alone?
I have no idea why you would need any other type of ignition with this efi setup.
If there is some sort of spark issue, I’d trouble shoot the system. I have higher compression too, 11.3 and make 505 hp.
The higher altitudes have less air, but the af ratio is maintained by the efi setup.
If there is some sort of spark issue, I’d trouble shoot the system. I have higher compression too, 11.3 and make 505 hp.
The higher altitudes have less air, but the af ratio is maintained by the efi setup.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
The only thing I could think of is the hyper spark comes prephased (used in conjunction with the sniper) for ease of timing control. However it is a hall effect style dist. vs the magnetic pickup. I was more curious if the hall effect style would even work with the Proflo. I know the Fitech only accepts a magnetic pickup.
I kept the Edelbrock proflo distributor, only added the Hyperspark EFI spark box.
I adjusted the timing in the handheld, and left the MSD adjustable in the zero degrees position
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Gotcha.
Its actually the proflo distributor and the MSD coil, just with the hyperspark EFI spark box in the middle. It was not a necessity, just wanted to add more spark in case this was an issue. Never had dirty sparkplugs due to unburned fuel or anything like that.
I installed the EFI system precisely because I was moving to another city and did not want to experience issues with the carburated setup.
I just wished the handheld had a graphing and recording feature to facilitate fine tuning. I have a tuner on another vehicle and that helps a lot to see what is going on, on the proflo you wither have to record the screen or have someone look at it while you drive.
I just cut the proflo white wire that goes to the coil and fed it as input into the hyperspark, then the output of the hyperspark to the coil and worked without issues. (obviously all batt, switched 12V and GND connections as well)
Just got the rotor in from Summit and the Edelbrock distributor cap won’t fit over the rotor. Damn.
Wrong rotor. That's the one that Bergman tried and didn't fit, you need the 84211. Look at my post that I quoted.
Pro Flo 4 Timing
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