Pro Touring 10K

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Looking back maybe I should have just stuck to my guns and if I said I was going to do just too many bad ideas running around in this head

You can't stop it....it is a disease. ....I have been affected since childhood.
 
Well the madness continues. Front mount made and tacked in place. Need to make the top mount. Still need to go back and clean up the opening in the valance. But that's later when I get back on the body work. For now its OK. now that there is not much left of the valance I need to weld some tab's on the core support bar to attach the valance. Inter-cooler looks like it might interfere with the lower part of the front bumper. That really sucks because they just got back from chrome shop. Anyway here is from tonight.
 

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I have thought about doing something like that but if I decide to run it in the SCCA cam class it requires bumpers

They just updated the rules for 2016 so make sure you comply. They bumped the weight in CAM-T to 3000 lbs so you may be thrown into CAM-S where the minimum weight would be 2350 for you. They also added a couple rules for the interior so you're going to need vinyl door panels.
 

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Yeah, I saw that post on Moparts. It will have a full interior. Leather I might add. stay tuned for that madness. With all the modern pieces I have added. Wheels, Motor some exterior touches. I wanted to add that 60's vibe in there so the seat inserts will be a throw back to the mod top cars. Black leather with this as inserts. Love it or hate it. I like it and that's what I'm going with.
 

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update from tonight. Made the top plate for the inter-cooler. finished welding the lower bracket and reshaped the ends. set the ride height for the rear to get the car as level as possible. Marker my axle center line and will be cutting the rail tomorrow and getting the spring boxes tacked in place. the car is really low. My crazy interior insert material also showed up today. Ordered a set of Flex-Form composite springs. using a 200 lb rate with a 5" free arch and a 1" arch at load.
 

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Some more pictures of tonight's work. Cut the frame rail on the left side. Squared up the back of the spring box. Stupid thing didn't want to set flush to the rail. mocked it up and that's where I had to stop. Not because I couldn't do more But I don't have and all tread in 5/8 long enough to tie both boxes together. Most don't do it this way. But this is how we do it here at the shop. Now that I'm happy with one side. I will trim the passenger side rail run the all thread through the bolt holes of both boxes to make sure there are in line with one another and square to each other, I will tack the boxes in place and cut the rod out. I will post pictures of this when I get them tied together. But for now here is what I got accomplished tonight.
 

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Not a lot of time to do much on my car today. But I have been ask about the threaded rod and how that works. So Here is a visual. The rod will run from the box I have tacked in place to the holes on the other box to make sure they are square to one another. Another thing to note is the rear rails turn in and are not level where the new box will mount. here are some pictures of the stock rail for the mounting point of the new box and the one I have squared up and tacked in place. Doing this will keep the front eye from binding allowing the rear slider to work in a linear line. not to bind the slider and let it do its job.
 

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Some more work done tonight. Front spring boxes leveled and squared. tacked in place hung the springs for mock up and moving to the rear sliders tomorrow night. Can't wait to get this thing on all fours.
 

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Needed a little help this evening getting the rear tires set in place and the guys at the shop stuck around to get everything measured so I can order the rear end. The rear housing I had planned on using isn't going to work. So I will be ordering a housing and center section tomorrow. When I ordered the flex form composite springs I ordered them in a 200lb rate. The guys at flex form tried to get me to to do 225lb. But I thought that was way to stiff for this car. Besides I all ready have a set of 225's So I was going to use them for mock up only expecting them to be way to much and the rear would set way to high. Well I was wrong. They are dead on. So I need to call and cancel that order in the morning. Pretty stoked to see it setting on the spring at ride height even if the wheels aren't mounted to axles yet.
 

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New housing showed up today. center section and axles. Now just need to get it on the lift. weld the spring perches on and I can move on to getting the motor and transmission set in place and start fabricating the motor mounts and transmission mounts. As soon as that's done I can move forward with getting it ready to paint.
 

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Well, A good day and a bad day all at the same time. So I mounted the sliders machined new Delrin Bushings for the sliders. bolted in the housing and and axles and got the car setting on all 4's under it's own weight. That's the good.. The bad is the springs were suppose to compress to have a 3" loaded arch. Well. Not so much. So Monday I will have to call Flex Form and see if the new springs can be made to have a 3 1/2" Free arch instead of a 5 like the mock up set I bought to try.
 

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Your problem is that the springs aren't compressing under static conditions? Have you cycled the springs to settle them in? Remember you still don't have a fuel tank and gas in the car yet.
 
I believe they are as settled as there are going to get. They where on another car before mine. And run in autocross events. So yes they have been cycled. I'm aware that there will be weight added to the car. Gas tank glass interior just to name a few. The free arch height is 5" its dropped about 1/2 an inch in the pictures. I can add about 300lbs in the trunk and it drops about an inch and a half more but that's really not quite enough. I will talk to Flex form on Monday to get there thoughts. I'm having spring built so I'm hoping we can get where I want with the springs. If not I will notch the rail to set the spring up in the rail 1" and adjust from there. I know Flex Form can do a 4" free arch. I'm hoping they can do a 3 1/2
 
I have new one being built. Hope I can get to them in time to make some changes. They told me 6 weeks and it's only been 3 so fingers crossed.
 
You need the springs to be close to zero arch, with the car assembled and at full weight ready to race. Otherwise your playing a guessing game on ride hight. And........ as I opined earlier, 200 LB per inch is way to much rate.......You really should be somewhere in the 140-150 lb area, depending on your F/R weight distribution and corner weights. Your fab work looks awesome by the way, very nice!
 
You need the springs to be close to zero arch, with the car assembled and at full weight ready to race. Otherwise your playing a guessing game on ride hight. And........ as I opined earlier, 200 LB per inch is way to much rate.......You really should be somewhere in the 140-150 lb area, depending on your F/R weight distribution and corner weights. Your fab work looks awesome by the way, very nice!

Thanks, Yes I will agree that they need to be close to zero arch. The spring weights of a composite spring is not the same as a steel spring. I am skeptical as well, But I see that there are 60s Mustangs running these springs at 225 even 265 for a track only car's. The mustangs are about 100lbs lighter than my car from my research. I hate to think I have wasted 475.00 on a new set. I believe some conversation with Flex Form is in the near future.
 
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