ProComp/Speedmaster aluminum heads

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Actually that's a good idea I will just p. M. People and ask them questions...
If you want to look at every single turn there's three teen right behind me with a comment and generally it has nothing to do with the subject...
Or better yet the ignore button for a little while till I can get back on the ground...
 
j par said:
Actually that's a good idea I will just p. M. People and ask them questions...
If you want to look at every single turn there's three teen right behind me with a comment and generally it has nothing to do with the subject...
Or better yet the ignore button for a little while till I can get back on the ground...
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reality can be harsh. breathe... breathe..... LOL
 
j par said:
I was kind of wondering if the characteristics would change at least the way my motor would run not having an open chamber head anymore..
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I quoted myself one more time (from five pages ago) to see if there's any chance of getting this back on track and also put the agitator on ignore so we can carry on...
 
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My contribution for the day
 
j par said:
Seems to be the place to go for it...
Unfortunately it was someone like you that I was actually expecting to have a good intelligent answer...
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I’ve said my piece on this subject many times on different posts. My cars are drag race only so I don’t have to deal with the street driving, street behavior issues. All I’ve heard during most of my 44 years of engine building is quench, quench, quench. Meanwhile my W2 headed engine and Edelbrock headed engines were both open chamber heads with below deck flat top pistons. Both easily ran 9’s. I don’t always go by the book.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I’ve said my piece on this subject many times on different posts. My cars are drag race only so I don’t have to deal with the street driving, street behavior issues. All I’ve heard during most of my 44 years of engine building is quench, quench, quench. Meanwhile my W2 headed engine and Edelbrock headed engines were both open chamber heads with below deck flat top pistons. Both easily ran 9’s. I don’t always go by the book.
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Thank you for that. I was just because like you said people talk about it so much wondering if there would be any characteristic change in the way it ran sounded or was tuned?..
It doesn't sound like you have that direct comparison answer?..
 
Let me try for what it’s worth. I have switch open chambers to closed on a few big blocks. They seemed to run about the same. They did sound crisper. They also had a little more power. This was on higher mileage engines. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
Let me try for what it’s worth. I have switch open chambers to closed on a few big blocks. They seemed to run about the same. They did sound crisper. They also had a little more power. This was on higher mileage engines. Kim
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More power is good:thumbsup:...
 
oldkimmer said:
Let me try for what it’s worth. I have switch open chambers to closed on a few big blocks. They seemed to run about the same. They did sound crisper. They also had a little more power. This was on higher mileage engines. Kim
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Higher compression? Fresh valve job, guides, and seals. We can’t give quench credit for seat of the pants performance gain.
 
plain and simple, squish speeds up the charge and spreads it even across the open chamber, for a more even explosion
Squish physically mixes the flame with the mixture making the burn more rapidly, thus reducing detonation
minimum effective quench is .035
 
fishmens67 said:
plain and simple, squish speeds up the charge and spreads it even across the open chamber, for a more even explosion
Squish physically mixes the flame with the mixture making the burn more rapidly, thus reducing detonation
minimum effective quench is .035
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Would you go less than .030?
 
fishmens67 said:
low as .025, was never a problem. but THEY say you shouldn't. lol
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I know when my engine was originally built it was.010 above deck. of course when I read the paperwork that's how much they shaved off the top of the block to get it square.. so as it was discussed with me the engine builder instead of using a fatter gasket then the 1008 at 39 he gasket matched countersunk the heads around the edges so many thousands to accommodate... He seemed to be comfortable at a minimum of .030?
So now I'm faced with this..
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Versus this...
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(" IF ") that is actually .010 above which I have not personally measured and that is a 5 year old picture when the block was being built, then a 1008 should leave me .029? And a 8553 should leave me .043?..
Edit: I would also appreciate @70aarcudas take on this post??..
 
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Off topic some but I found this on Facebook. A member wanting to lower his compression some went about it the right way for a win win. Lower compression and a better flowing ProMax Head.
 
j par said:
Thank you for that. I was just because like you said people talk about it so much wondering if there would be any characteristic change in the way it ran sounded or was tuned?..
It doesn't sound like you have that direct comparison answer?..
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Everything I have seen/experienced is quench is really only important for detonation control on a street driven engine with octane limitations (pump gas). The main thing is you are better off to be quite a way out of the danger zone than flirting with it. In other words if you are not .030-.050 than set it up with .080 or more and avoid the range in between as it is more prone to detonation by being in the "close but not there" area.

All this applies to a hot pump gas engine, if you ask around at the track you will see most guys are only concerned about the end result of valve clearance/static ratio ect. and not the other way around,they let the quench fall where it is. Of course there are alot of variables and different approaches but I can say from all the engines I have seen on the dyno (a shop YR worked at did back to back tests a couple times on quench) there is no discernable power difference in any of them.
 
lead69 said:
Everything I have seen/experienced is quench is really only important for detonation control on a street driven engine with octane limitations (pump gas). The main thing is you are better off to be quite a way out of the danger zone than flirting with it. In other words if you are not .030-.050 than set it up with .080 or more and avoid the range in between as it is more prone to detonation by being in the "close but not there" area.

All this applies to a hot pump gas engine, if you ask around at the track you will see most guys are only concerned about the end result of valve clearance/static ratio ect. and not the other way around,they let the quench fall where it is. Of course there are alot of variables and different approaches but I can say from all the engines I have seen on the dyno (a shop YR worked at did back to back tests a couple times on quench) there is no discernable power difference in any of them.
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Me personally I wouldn't be disappointed if I didn't get any power gains. I was mostly looking to get the aluminum heads that I've always wanted and lose 50 lb...
I was just wondering if anybody did see a changeI...
It looks like if I use the 8553 I should be safe with a little room to spare but still in the good Zone...
 
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