This is not pointed at anybody in particular. But, DAMN, you sure get a lot of conflicting advice and stories surrounding boosted engines.
Jack
Jack
Project 6-71 340 Demon
- Thread starter Coyote Jack
- Start date
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Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Like I stated earlier a Girdle might make you feel better like a rooster walking around the yard with his chest sticking out telling everyne what you did and how much money you spent but it don't do **** to keep your engine from coming apart on a SBM. As far as 600ft lbs of torque guys are getting that done Naturally Aspirated no girdle high compression on a Trans Brake and actually drive the **** out of their cars and they live smacking them with a 200 shot on top of that to boot, not like some trailer queens who drive their cars off a trailer to a show or cruise 500 miles per year. That is some funny **** coming from guys that don't even use their cars... LOL to the Maxxxx you guys need to spend some time and do some research on what guys are actually doing in this day and age to make serious power that lives well over your mental block of 600 hp/tq, and get out of the 70's!! It is a new day!
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=165579&highlight=600+limit
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=165579&highlight=600+limit
Mad Dart,
I saw your fuel pump setup with the Walbro's (sp?), have you had a chance to run fuel through it yet? I was just wondering how it worked.
I do believe I will need a fuel pump upgrade from the stock mechanical I have now. LOL
Jack
I saw your fuel pump setup with the Walbro's (sp?), have you had a chance to run fuel through it yet? I was just wondering how it worked.
I do believe I will need a fuel pump upgrade from the stock mechanical I have now. LOL
Jack
Yes you do! Once I decided to build a blower motor, I talked to everyone I could that had or had built one to get little tips from everyone, and out of 20 people, you'll get 20 different thoughts on the subject. The guys that were the most helpful were a lot of the professional racers at the track, I also got good advise from a local blower company that had been building blower cars for 35+ years, BDS has a good tech department, but their customer service is one of the worst out there. They won't even give you the light of day about advice, till you become a customer, then they'll have good advice for you and be pretty helpful.
The best advice anyone can give you is to talk to everyone you can that has a blower car, then use common sense to decide which advice will be best for you. Keep in mind how you'll be driving it, and how often you want to work on it, or rebuild it. Also keep in mind that just about everything in your engine will need some sort of upgrade to accommodate a blower, it isn't just a bolt on.
That is good advice and that is what I am trying to do. One of the reasons this took so long to get on the road to being actually built.
I have heard stories of guy's running 15 lbs of boost on cast pistons and stock rods. I don't think I will go there. LOL
I have an all forged bottom end. Stock crank, many have said (including a couple of blower companies), it's up for the job, Eagle H-beam rods and heavy TRW forged pistons. I also talked to a few builders that told me they have never had a single keyway balancer problem at the boost levels I will be running. The rotating assembly is balanced and I will be using Cleavit 77 H series bearings. Steve Morris Racing is providing the cam.
Jack
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
This is all I got to say about that!!
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=165579&highlight=600+limit
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=165579&highlight=600+limit
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
I only ran mine on the dyno. They are super quiet and you can barely tell they are on with all 3 running at the same time.
I got the idea for my fuel system from the guys on theturboforums.com . A whole bunch of guys have tested this set up with great results and no problems at all up to 1400 EFI Boosted HP using 3 of them. The Walbro GSL392's are great for multiple pump set ups, reason being is they flow MEGA Fuel are quiet, will act as a DEAD HEAD so no fuel will go back to your tank if you turn them on at different times and they will also LIFT Fuel so that will open up where you can mount them. Also they are inexpensive at $100.00 Each. One of them will support 600 Boosted EFI HP. Yes they can be used on a Carb set up too!
Lonewolf3165
Living the Dream!
lmao!!...
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
The engine was still running is my point. After hundreds of 1/4 mile runs this engine puts most to shame on the time between standard tear downs and freshen ups.
There is some real world information in the post below that we all could use and benefit from.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=165579&highlight=600+limit
MiradaMegaCab
Well-Known Member
Jack, will you be using full groove main bearings and what intake manifold?
We all know to run extra piston ring gap with boost.
I havent seen a Mopar crank fail using a single keyway. But a cast crank with a single keyway might be asking for a problem.
SB chevies cranks crack quite often in a Roots 71 blown application. Not the keyway, the whole crank snout cracks. It takes alot of HP to turn that blower. Also, the closer you keep your pulleys to the damper the better off you are. The further out the pulleys are, the more leverage exists to add side load stress.
I wouldnt waste money on the girdle. The weak point is the head gaskets in a sb Mopar.
yea i drove the **** out of my yellow duster for the frist 10 years its got about 23000 miles on the motor , i dont drive it much any more because i have way to many to drive and i working on my days i can
Yup, full groove bearings. I'm not sure on the intake yet as I still haven't decided on a blower yet. I am leaning toward getting a complete setup from Dean's Blowers. Rick seems to have a good rep and good prices.
I have a request in for the price of copper head gaskets at Gasket Works. We will see what they come up with.
I will be using a single V groove pulley setup to run the water pump and alt. so that should keep the pulley's in fairly tight.
Jack
70Duster440
Well-Known Member
I had some issues with Rick which cost me a lot more time and money than planned so be careful.
MiradaMegaCab
Well-Known Member
Jack, You have to have your heads O-ringed and reciever grooves cut into the deck surfaces of your block, in order to use copper head gaskets. But they never fail. With hi-RPM and/or with boost, the head will physically lift causing issues with any type of head gasket, EXCEPT for copper head gaskets with O-ringed heads and receiver grooves.
I run 6PSI of boost with upto a 150 shot of N20 and will bury the tach at 8,000RPM's... So I tend to push things to the extreem.
Check out SCE gaskets websites tech page on copper head gaskets.
MiradaMegaCab
Well-Known Member
Jack,
Have you checked out, Big Als Toy Box?
He sells blowers, turn key blown engines and parts. He is in Ct.
His shop is pretty cool too.
70Duster440
Well-Known Member
I think Big Al's is overpriced. Dyer's has/had some of the better prices on kits with the exception of carbs. Hampton's another.
Dyer's was my second choice. I agree, Big Al's looks over priced to me as well. Hampton's is a little pricier than Dyer's but I have never heard a bad word about them.
Thanks for the heads up on the copper gaskets. I had not read that anywhere.
I don't plan on spinning my engine to 8,000. Maybe 6500 tops. LOL
Jack
I finally have some more progress. After having delays on getting parts over Christmas and the wife having surgery, (she's doing real good), I finally got out to the garage again.
I started putting the bottom end together. I installed the main bearings, checked them with a micrometer and came up with .0026 to .0028 clearance. I then set the crank in and checked it with plasti-guage just to make sure. It appeared to be about the same. I think that those clearances will work fine so I started assembly. The ARP bolts went in real easy and after I went through the torque sequence the crank turned real nice and smooth. I then moved on to the Eagle H-beams. Damn they are nice to work with. I checked the bearing clearances and came up with .0020 and .0021 across the board. I assembled the pistons rings and rods and then installed them in their cylinders. The whole operation took me about 7 hours but I work slow and make sure everything is the way I want it. I check things, check them again and then check them again. All in all it was a good day.
Here are a few pics. You can probably see where they had to add metal when they balanced the rotating assembly.
Hopefully it won't be so long until the next update.
Jack
I started putting the bottom end together. I installed the main bearings, checked them with a micrometer and came up with .0026 to .0028 clearance. I then set the crank in and checked it with plasti-guage just to make sure. It appeared to be about the same. I think that those clearances will work fine so I started assembly. The ARP bolts went in real easy and after I went through the torque sequence the crank turned real nice and smooth. I then moved on to the Eagle H-beams. Damn they are nice to work with. I checked the bearing clearances and came up with .0020 and .0021 across the board. I assembled the pistons rings and rods and then installed them in their cylinders. The whole operation took me about 7 hours but I work slow and make sure everything is the way I want it. I check things, check them again and then check them again. All in all it was a good day.
Here are a few pics. You can probably see where they had to add metal when they balanced the rotating assembly.
Hopefully it won't be so long until the next update.
Jack
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Nice, what rings did you use and whst did you end up gapping them at?
After talking to a few people that have built and run blowers on the street for years, most agreed that me putting special file fit rings in was a waste of money. They told me that stock rings would work fine in my application with the pistons I have and to leave the Hell Fires to the racing crowd. The ring end gaps came out to .140 so I don't think I will be welding them together.
Jack
Jack
Here's another pic of the bottom end.
Like my dirty garage?
Jack
Like my dirty garage?
Jack
74Dusted
Stock Piler of 340's
I've got a Dyer's 6-71 Kit on my 340. Best priced kit around and they were great people to deal with.
I had them custom make me a 3-Groove Pulley so I could keep the factory A/C in my '74 Duster. They told me I was the only person to ever order a 6-71 kit for a 340 with Power Steering & A/C
And then when I went to pay for the kit, my credit card wouldn't go through (even though the funds were in my account). Dyer's explained to me that most bank issued cards have a limit on purchase prices, and told me to call the bank and request a temporary increase on the limit. They were right, (I had no idea there was a limit) I called the bank, and within an hour the limit had been raised to allow me to purchase the blower kit.
It showed up at my shop during my lunch break about a week later, in 3 monster sized boxes.
I have a little more progress to report, sort of. Do you know what this is? Well, it's a piston pin clip. I found it when I went out to the garage this morning to continue working on the engine. It was in the bottom of the piston box. I knew I had put all the clips in, but why was this one there? I know you know what had to be done first today. I pulled every piston and re-installed every piston without changing a thing. All the clips were there and in place. This must have been an extra somebody threw in the box just to piss me off. Oh well, better safe than sorry.
Jack
Jack
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