Project`67 Dart GT 340 A500

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Junior340 said:
We took my 67 Dart on a trip 250 miles to spring fling and it ran perfect, the od made such a big difference and fun. We could keep up with high speeds people drive in the big city easily . We averaged 17 mpg, I was happy with that with a healthy thirsty 340.
What a fun car.
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Any updates on the paint/body work?
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Any updates on the paint/body work?
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Not much done last couple months, I am stuck on this complicated(to me) dent like a floor jack handle wacked right rear 1/4. The body line has not come back yet with no filler assistance. I think I will have to scrap off the inside undercoating to get a solid push with body tool while tapping outside with hammer back.
 
Junior340 said:
Not much done last couple months, I am stuck on this complicated(to me) dent like a floor jack handle wacked right rear 1/4. The body line has not come back yet with no filler assistance. I think I will have to scrap off the inside undercoating to get a solid push with body tool while tapping outside with hammer back.
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Cool. I feel you on the body work. I need to replace drivers lower quarter and pretty sure the whole passenger quarter. Not looking forward to it.
 
Junior340 said:
I bet I would not know where to start with that
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Yea it is pretty intimidating being my first time as well. I am fortunate that my dad is extremely good at welding and has painted a few cars. The trouble is getting him over to the house! Lol. We'll get there, I am just getting excited. I feel pretty confident doing the minor filler work and block sanding once big metal work is done.
 
Just saw this thread, awesome job! I just looked at a Polara parts car in turbine Bronze, that is an amazing color! I need to patch/replace my quarters and have NO experience doing body work, so it's fun to watch you move from panel to panel is short order. I've also been thinking about adding the tailshaft from my 518 to my BB 727 for extra cruising ability. Look forward to more updates!
 
I've also been thinking about adding the tailshaft from my 518 to my BB 727 for extra cruising ability. Look forward to more updates![/QUOTE said:
Not to Hijack, but I don't think you can do that. I believe that question has been asked before.
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The housings are different, but...oh yeah. You can but it's a pain in the *** and have to modify the floor or something, right? And the electronics that need to be addressed. Gear Vendors need more money I've heard. :(
 
LocuMob said:
The housings are different, but...oh yeah. You can but it's a pain in the *** and have to modify the floor or something, right? And the electronics that need to be addressed. Gear Vendors need more money I've heard. :(
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Whoops missed that he has a Big Block. :(
 
plumkrazee70 said:
If you use the A500 no floor mods required only the cross member. Look at page 1 of this thread. :) Gear vendors doesn't seem worth it my opinion.. 3K?
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Gear Vendors I can get for 1800, well that's the price I remember from years ago. I'm going big block and have the 518 in the back of my truck. I'll go with the standard 727 if I can't do a swap with the 518 tailshaft/ valvebody goodies. I'll be running 3.23's so it won't be too bad on the highway and it won't see much time on one anyways, mostly local back road cruising. Just be nice to get in and drive 1000 miles with decent milage. A guys gotta dream right?
 
LocuMob said:
Just took the guys from the A500/518 and put them in the Big Block housing? That's what I was thinking of doing when it comes time to build the trans.
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They sell an aftermarket bell that bolts to the front pump. Pat at Wilcap.com should be able to explain it better than I. Pat is a great guy and right sown the street from me.
 
Junior340 said:
We took my 67 Dart on a trip 250 miles to spring fling and it ran perfect, the od made such a big difference and fun. We could keep up with high speeds people drive in the big city easily . We averaged 17 mpg, I was happy with that with a healthy thirsty 340.
What a fun car.
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What?! How did I miss your car?
 
Ok this is a bad sign , I need to get back on junior body work .

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LocuMob said:
Gear Vendors I can get for 1800, well that's the price I remember from years ago. I'm going big block and have the 518 in the back of my truck. I'll go with the standard 727 if I can't do a swap with the 518 tailshaft/ valvebody goodies. I'll be running 3.23's so it won't be too bad on the highway and it won't see much time on one anyways, mostly local back road cruising. Just be nice to get in and drive 1000 miles with decent milage. A guys gotta dream right?
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I'm pretty sure you cannot adapt an A518 OD unit to a 727 case if that's what you mean
 
Update: Junior has been chugging right along as an everyday driver and never lets me down, I say chugging because I believe my carburetor is too lean according to my plugs and the stalling I get off and on. It is not bad just like it to be better and I like to tinker. I really need to tinker on the body work more but I get distracted from that part easily :BangHead:
I am going experiment with a new Q750 since I have it already.
 
Ok I put the Q750 on Jr and all went well, the Lokar cable kick down is not dialed in yet but I drive it to work most days so I try a little adjustment each day.
The carb so far out of the box is pretty dialed and starts right up cold even with out any choke.

The old crusty Direct Connection air cleaner is a good luck charm to me so it stays, I am glad it still fit. And the multi color use of AN fittings is because that is what I had left over from other projects. My socks probably don't match either LOL

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Right door

Looks like sometime in its life someone slammed the door while holding the handle and kinked the metal. So I am attempting to get the metal to go back where it came from, its seems to remember mostly.
Keep tapping and tapping and tapping

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TrailBeast said:
It can be done later easily, so big deal there.
I used brass fittings and compression unions to plumb off the governor port and ran a steel cooler line up the back of the motor to a T then the two pressure switches attached to that and a bracket to bolt it to the back of the intake.
The stuff you see online for doing this is not speed adjustable and mounts down on the trans.
Since my switches are adjustable I wanted to access them from under the hood instead of under the car.

The two switches are actually made for nitrous systems and are called Fuel Pressure Safety Switches.
They are 30-70lb adjustable normally open 1/8 NPT electric switches From Jegs online.
Road speed relates real close to governor port pressure, so at 50mph your governor is putting about 50psi out on the governor port.
30-70lb relates to 30-70mph adjustable when used for this, so if you adjust the switch to 50lbs it will kick on your OD at 50mph.
They are for deactivating the nitrous if there isn't sufficient fuel pump pressure.
The way I used them was for when the trans governor pressure reached a certain pressure they would activate turning on the OD solenoid and LU solenoid, but at different pressures. (I set them so one switch activates at 55 and the other at 65)

I started with both switches turned as high as they would go so it didn't accidentally do something stupid like activating lockup in second or something. :D
Then I took it out and drove it, backing down on the switch that controlled OD first until it started shifting into OD at the speed I wanted. (55)
Then I did the same with the lockup switch until it was coming on at the speed I wanted.(65)

Now one more small complication.:D
I used part GM part number A74439A (6lb-22lb adjustable vacuum switch)
This interrupts the power to the lockup and/or OD when the engine vacuum gets lower from acceleration and kicks it out until manifold vacuum comes back up again. (like for passing or heavy throttle)
It is just a vacuum controlled kickdown if you will.

The switches inside the car just interrupt the ground for the two 12v solenoids that control the power to activate OD and lockup.

Let me know if you need more info or help with it.

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do you have part numbers for those switches? i can't find that adjustment range
 
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