Project Black Betty

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Thanks. I bet your enthusiasm for these builds is helping get a lot of people involved. I've got a lot to do on my current project before even considering this, but if I do it I will go for something like door number 2.
I've wondered if the turbo off a 6.5 GM diesel might work since I happen to have one.

Fact is, I am pretty ignorant about the technical aspects of turbocharging, never having had a forced induction car before I built the two I am currently involved with, but there are LOTS of people on here who are well-versed in the vagaries of matching engines and turbos... I have SOME knowledge from having read posts on this forum, and over at the slantsix.org BB, but I am just not the person to ask such a question, here.

Try to get the attention of Fabo member "Prine"... he has an impressive amount of turbo knowledge and is very good to share it.

I have read a lot about various setups, and what works well on certain cars, but turbo-sizing is not something I know a whole lot about. And, it's critical to the efficiency of a system. I do know that much...

Have you seen this video?[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QzUfV8iTpQ"]Turbo Slant Six 10.74 @ 127 mph 7-19-10 - YouTube[/ame]

That car is one of two that inspired me to build the car in my Avatar.

Not much in that Valiant's engine that is not in the Stage II version I described in my last diatribe. I will say that getting the mixture "right" is everything on car like this.

IF you decide to build a turbo slant six, do yourself a very BIG favor and purchase a data-logging wideband, O-2 sensor and use it religiously, from day-1.

It will save you heartache, grief, time and money. Gay-roan-teed!!!

I cannot stress that enough! X-10!!!! Just a word to the wise...:violent1:
 
Thanks. I bet your enthusiasm for these builds is helping get a lot of people involved.

Thanks for the kind words.

The advantage the Slant six motor has, is its ability to LIVE with a lot of boost, because it's almost like a Diesel in its sturdy infrastructure.

The fact is, cylinder head breathes so poorly because of its small valves and ports, the only way to make one really run, compared with V8's, is with forced induction or nitrous.

It took me many, many years to come to that conclusion, but the cars of Ryan Petersen and Tom Wolfe opened my eyes with their 500hp engines and they did it without turning over 5,500 rpm or, employing fuel injection. Those motors are very simple in that they don't even have roller cams or any other hi-tech parts... just flat tappet cams, a basic port job on the head and a 4bbl carb.

I suppose their output could be surpassed with an EFI system and a computerized spark-advance curve, but a 500-horsepower slant six is a pretty satisfying thing....

I decided to build a bald-faced copy of their two engines and it's about ready to run as we speak.

I can't wait.... :blob:
 
I haven't posted in a while ... been to cold to work in my garage! I did however
just order a few day ago a whole bushing set from Firm Feel along with Bilstein
shocks for front and back. :)It should arrive sometime this week, then when the weather warms up a little, I'll head to my salvage yard for a donor car for a 73' and up disc swap followed by a mini tub,spring relocate and 8.25 for the rear.:burnout:
 
I haven't posted in a while ... been to cold to work in my garage! I did however
just order a few day ago a whole bushing set from Firm Feel along with Bilstein
shocks for front and back. :)It should arrive sometime this week, then when the weather warms up a little, I'll head to my salvage yard for a donor car for a 73' and up disc swap followed by a mini tub,spring relocate and 8.25 for the rear.:burnout:

Glad to hear you're still making plans and progress! That later disc swap and the 8.25" rear is a really good move! Let us know how it progresses!

We are FINALLY having some better weather here, so our first outing with this thing is gonna be pretty soon, I hope! We will start with 10-pounds of boost and if that works, will be upping it to 15, and later, 20 if things work out right (and, they hardly ever do...) :prayer:

I'm going to venture a guess that this thing (if everything else is okay) will run a 13.50 at 10 pounds of boost.

Talk is cheap: we'll see... :blob:
 
Ok guys quick update,just got my order in from Firm Feel , Urethane bushing set with problem solver control arm bushing, bilstein shocks, and strut rod bushings! next gotta get my donor car part for the brake swap and rearend swap. :)
 
Ok guys quick update,just got my order in from Firm Feethanaksl , Urethane bushing set with problem solver control arm bushing, bilstein shocks, and strut rod bushings! next gotta get my donor car part for the brake swap and rearend swap. :)

You GO, guy!!!!
And, thanks for keepin' us posted!!!!:blob:
 
Keepin' a eye on this one. Good work !

I just today, got the tow-vehicle ('93 Dakota 5.2-liter) wired for trailer lights and a trailer-brake controller. More baby-steps.... :banghead:
 

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Going to the junkyard on Friday weather permitting! Going for the front end pieces this week and maybe next week the rearend and driveshaft! If I can find a A-body with a 8 3/4 rear I'll snag that, if not I'll go for the 8 1/4.
 
Going to the junkyard on Friday weather permitting! Going for the front end pieces this week and maybe next week the rear-end and drive-shaft! If I can find a A-body with a 8 3/4 rear I'll snag that, if not I'll go for the 8 1/4.

Forget the 8.75" rear. It's way more expensive; the 8.25" is plenty strong and will have a ratio (2.73?) that works well with a turbocharged slant six both on the drag strip and the hiway, plus it is considerably lighter, and saps considerably less parasitic power...

Both 500 hp slant sixes in the 120+ mph range that have been tested have proven this gear ratio business out. It works.. and is a money-saver!!!
 
Yeah, 8.25 is plenty good enough. Plus you can convert it to rear disc easily using the setup from a 95-98 grand cherokee.. I recently picked up an a-body 8.25 with 3.23s for $200 at a swapmeet.
 
Well today didn't go as planned....I did manage to get the spindles and calipers...but the DAMN UCAs wouldn't come out! :banghead:The adjuster bolts were seized into the bushing and I only managed to get one to come out. I talked to the guy who runs the salvage yard and he said I can bring a sawzall and cut them out,so next week I'll be going back to get those and some steelies to put winter tires on. Didn't locate the rearend but it's a big yard and I was specifically looking for the disc brake items.

I saw a front sway bar setup on another car that was a older model ... late 60s valiant I think. I might grab that some time but I'll look around some more.

I got a new alternator mount while I was there also. My alt mounting bolt hole was worn out into a oval,hence belt/bearing squeaking from misalignment.
 
a HOSE for fuel line? do you have a death wish? how can you call your self a car guy? if you cant make a proper STEEL fuel line?
 
There's a very old saying. It goes like this.
If you can't say something nice... just shut up.
 
a HOSE for fuel line? do you have a death wish? how can you call your self a car guy? if you cant make a proper STEEL fuel line?

First of all,it's fuel injection hose. Second, it helps reduce fuel boil that the original fuel line caused with the steel line. Thirdly if you can't say something without being a total dick about it, then don't freaking post on my thread!:tool:
 
Also, there is only fuel hose at the fuel cell to where the original hard line starts and from the pump to the carb.
 
Nice Progress....subscribed.

What turbo would I recommend for this engine?...hmmm

225ci x 6000max rpm / 3456 = 390.62 cfm assuming 100% VE

390.6 x .85 = 332 real world CFM NA

coverted to LBS/min = 22 lbs/min Naturally Aspirated at 85% VE.

To make 500hp/500ft/lbs....55-60lbs/min would be required...

So we want a turbo with a range of 25-70 lbs/min

hmmm

T3/T4, 1.06 Exhaust AR.......GT35R.

44mm wastegate

Water/Meth Injection above 12psi.....

should make 450ish at 10psi, pump gas

550 ish at 18psi

and be flowed out at 25psi...somewhere around 600ish

Garrett GT35R preferred, but knockoffs with comparable specs are much cheaper....
Heres a nice comparable

http://store.max-redline.com/servlet/-strse-538/Detail

Keep it up...nice work so far
 
I got to work at the Redskins Rides Car Show in Ashburn, VA with my company and got to see some cool cars. Got a few pis of Mopars!
 

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The Challenger with the "Mopaar" license plate is not the same car as the two pics below it. Just so you know...
 
The minivan at the end was a disabled veterans car who was in a wheelchair.
 

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Got my master cylinder from Doctor Diff today!
 

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Well after two failed attempts at getting a set of upper control arms at the junk yard, I decided to order a set of tubular control arms from Firm Feel. The first time I went to the JY I got the spindles,calipers,caliper brackets and dust shields but couldn't for the life of me get the upper control arms out because the alignment bolt were seized into the bushings. So i went back last Saturday to cut them out and somebody else had beaten me to it. :banghead: I'm also going to order their
2" drop spindles as well. The guys at Firm Feel were nice enough to take back the offset upper bushings and upper ball joints back as credit towards the new parts! They usually charge a 20% restocking fee but they offered me 10% instead since I was ordering more expensive items. Putting the order in on Friday hopefully!

I did pick up some 4.5 bolt pattern steel wheels last Saturday at the JY so I can mount some snow tires for the winter and have something to put on after the swap. I picked a electronic dizzy up and have taken it apart and started cleaning it, pics to follow soon. Also got a booster bracket and booster at the JY but I'll probably use the booster as a core.

What sucks though, is the two times I've been to the JY I've gotten poison ivy rashes both times ...this time worse than the last.#-o Still gotta get the 8 1/4 rear end... I found two of them on cars sitting right beside but both are missing drive shafts.:wack: hopefully I can find a drive shaft that fits or I might have to have mine cut down to fit.
 
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