Project Riddler's Ride - 1976 Plymouth Duster

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DionR said:
Exactly my thoughts.

I will say though, that the rear wheel opening has enough room to run an 18" rim without getting too short on the sidewall. The front, on the other hand really is limited to a 17" rim, IMO.

If money were no object, I would run a 245/45-17 on the front and a 275/40-18 in the rear. Both have about 4.3" of sidewall, and they match a C5 Vette for tire size. Makes them a size that should be readily available for a long time, and relatively cheap to boot.
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Wow thats some really good thinking. I'll have to call tomorrow and get a price on a set of 17" fronts and 18" rears. Im' normally a guy who likes matching size rims but I don't think you'd notice with 1" larger and the same thickness rim size.

76orangewagon, huge thank you. I've been thinking of not using the extensions but wanted to see what others have done. I'm mostly conerned about rad size. I believe without extensions I can still fit a decently large rad and still have room for a trans cooler.

Riddler
 
Riddler said:
Wow thats some really good thinking. I'll have to call tomorrow and get a price on a set of 17" fronts and 18" rears. Im' normally a guy who likes matching size rims but I don't think you'd notice with 1" larger and the same thickness rim size.
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I'm pretty big on running the same size all around too, but I've come to the conclusion that a Duster looks more proportional with an 18" rim in the back. It's the same set up that Dust'Ya had, only it had a smaller front tire, if you wanted a visual.

http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_0211_1971_plymouth_duster/photo_01.html
 
Thank you DionR. I've been searching tires and such since I read and posted. You've given me a great suggestion and I'm running with it. I just need to find out the cost difference between the 17x10" or the 18x10" rear.

Riddler
 
Good to see another .org member here. Hope this one turns out as nice as your neon did8)
 
riddler,
you just have to use a aftermarket crossflow radiator with tanks on the sides without the extensions. I mocked the support up with the extensions and it really seems to hang low.
 
Riddler said:
Wow thats some really good thinking. I'll have to call tomorrow and get a price on a set of 17" fronts and 18" rears. Im' normally a guy who likes matching size rims but I don't think you'd notice with 1" larger and the same thickness rim size.

76orangewagon, huge thank you. I've been thinking of not using the extensions but wanted to see what others have done. I'm mostly conerned about rad size. I believe without extensions I can still fit a decently large rad and still have room for a trans cooler.

Riddler
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This is 20/20 foresight.Plus those sizes acually look good in a Dusters big wheel well.
 
I haven't had alot of time to work on the car but tonight I found a couple of hours. Although it was used to clean up the garage some I did find the time to cut out my Challenger fuel door body mount and get it ready for welding.

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I'm hoping to clean up the garage more and mock some things on the car.

Riddler
 
Wouldn't it have been easier to cut it in a square shape or something so you don't have to cut a odd shaped circle into your quarter?
 
I wish I would of been able to cut it more square. But the body had 4 peices of sheet metal seem sealed. I'll still round it out more so it's closer to a round circle.

Riddler
 
I told myself over the last week at work that I needed to start digging in and getting the Duster worked on. I decided if I could get a bunch of things ready for welding, maybe my welder (brother-in-law) will do some welding when he returns from a business trip.

I started out and got the rear Street Linx cross bar mounted. I still have to take it down now, use the flap wheel to clean off the primer so welding can be done!

I then started looking at the front floors in the car, yeah they look like crap, I have some new ones to install. I started by cutting and removing the front passenger side floor. After I fought with the spot weld bit for an hour I finally got the hang of it. I'd still like to find a better one.

Here's what the floor looked like after being removed.
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Here's the hole...
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As you can see my frame rails are in VERY good condition. I still think I'll brush in some por15 down them to keep the insides nice.
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I then tackled the center, and since it's not going back in, I just cut it out. Four spot welds is all that really held it in.
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This is what I'm left with. I had to stop as the cutting and banging was driving my wife nuts. :)
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Till next time...

Riddler
 
Way to keep at 'er! I wish I could be doing more and seeing others work helps keep me motivated! Thanks!
 
That purple duster is very nice, I really like your thread, keep it coming.
 
Nice build Riddler, I love seeing other guy's doing Pro Touring Mopars.....
 
Well the rest of the floor has been removed.

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I'm thinking I'm going to use POR 15 down inside all the frame rails to go over that rust and such. Then when the new floors are welded in the insides of the frame rails would be coated.

I've also been working on trying to get the front alkerktion k frame mounted but the stock bump stop and such are spot welded on really well.

Riddler
 
Riddler said:
I'm thinking I'm going to use POR 15 down inside all the frame rails to go over that rust and such. Then when the new floors are welded in the insides of the frame rails would be coated.Riddler
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I'd give them a quick buzz with a flap wheel and then POR 15 them. While the POR15 is still tacky, I'd hit it with primer and then finally some colour. That way when everyone is ooooohing and awwwwwwwwwwing over your ride, you can point out the colour inside your framerails...... well if they look real hard through some of the factory holes.

Geez man, you're slipping! Details, DETAILS!!!!! :toothy10: Besides, what else are you going to do with your time? :snakeman:


Wylde1.
 
Well my rims (Boze Pro Touring) came in this week. The fronts are 17x8, 5.5" backspacing. The rears are 18x10 with a 4.5" backspacing. I was really hoping to have more of a front dish but due to the brakes and such I'm required to use this size.

I purchased Falken FK452 tires, 245-45-17 for the front and 275-40-18 for the rear. I took the brand new rims to the tire shop in the boxes. The manager's assistance tried to put the front tires on. I say tried cause he marked up both front rims. HE didn't notice these were reverse mount style rims. Lucky for me the shop is going to buy me two new rims to replace the marked ones and I get to keep the marked rims anyway.

The manager installed the rear rims and had no issues at all.

Here's the pictures I snapped tonight....

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Guess I can finalyl measure up the rear end!

Riddler
 
Those rims look killer. Can't wait to see them installed!! I just went thru this myself w/ rims and tires, so I know what a PITA it is.......I would have preferred 17's on the front too, but they weren't offered in my wheel choice.

:thumbup: Kudos to the shop that is replacing the marked up rims. That's the right way to do biz.
 
Great build Joe. You're doin some fine work man. No surprises here though.
 
Well I got to work a bit today with the help of my brother in law Jim. Jim's great with metal and knows how to weld much better than me. The welding helmet had dead batteries so we only got tack welds done. Everything still needs to be welded in. We started with the RMS Street Linx. Sorry didn't catch a picture of this yet.

We then moved onto the passenger side front floor. This is what the front rails looked like after I used POR-15 a few days ago.
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Here's the panel just getting put in, I think there are 2-3 tacks so far.
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This picture shows what it looks like tacked in. It doesn't move at all. I need to get some autobody pinch weld clamps so we can have a nice pinch weld.
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Another view of the passenger side in.
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This is the driver's side panel with the holes for the spot welds. Lots of drilling going on!
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While I was drilling the holes in the driver's side panel and waiting for the rechargeable drill battery to recharge, Jim got to work on getting the new Challenger gas door installed.

Fitting the fuel door body ring and measuring a few times before cutting.
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After cutting Jim cleaned up all the burrs with a file.
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This is the fuel door body ring tacked in with the new fuel door. This was to check to see if it was straight.
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Well until next time...

The plan, finish the driver's floor, then do the subframe connectors and maybe relocation boxes.

Riddler
 
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