QUIET external low-pressure electric fuel pump?

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RobbMc said:
One Walbro 255LPH pump in the PowerSurge 500 and two in the PowerSurge 1000.

You said: "It also says if you do not use a regulator with the pump and lower the fuel pressure the flow will be reduced by 50%. 50% of What???"
I'm not sure where you read that but it has nothing to do with the PowerSurge. That refers to the mechanical pumps we make.

When using the PowerSurge, there is no need to change or remove any of the stock fuel system components (fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter etc). The PowerSurge is added to your stock fuel system. The PowerSurge requires the use of a return/bypass regulator but the return line only has to run back to the PowerSurge, not all the way back to the fuel tank.

Hope this helps.
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I got the info right off your FAQ page on your website. Here it is http://www.robbmcperformance.com/faq.html & in Quotes below>>

So that being said your factory fuel system will need to have a regulator & return line back to the pump or you will loose 50% of flow. So from what I am reading you need the 1100 HP Pump for a 550HP application if you choose not to use a regulator. It would probably be safe to say the same with the 550HP set up. No regulator you should not have more than 275HP.

Q: Should I buy the 550HP pump or the 1100HP pump?

A: If your car is street driven and the engine produces no more than 550 horsepower, the 550HP pump will work fine. If the car is primarily used for racing or if the engine produces more than 550 hp, the 1100HP pump is a better choice. The 1100HP not only produces more volume but the pressure can be adjusted higher so that a regulator can be used. A high pressure pump used with a regulator will provide steadier pressure than a low pressure pump.

Q: What if I buy a 550HP pump and later find that I need a 1100HP pump?

A: Any 550HP pump can be upgraded to 1100HP specifications for $100. Email us at [email protected] for more info.

Q: Do I have to use a pressure regulator with the 1100HP pump?

A: Not necessarily. The output pressure is adjustable and if you reduce the pressure to about 7 psi, a regulator is usually not needed to prevent the carb from flooding. However, reducing the pump output pressure from 14 psi to 7 psi reduces the pump output volume by about 50%. So if the engine produces over about 550 hp, or if the car is used for racing, increasing the pump pressure and using a regulator is highly recommended.

Q: You don't list a pump/starter/sending unit for my car. Can you make one?

A: In many cases, yes, and often for only slightly more money than one of our standard units. Email us at [email protected] with your requirement for more information.

Q: My car has a small factory "vapor return line" that was connected to the factory pump in addition to the inlet and outlet lines. Can I use this line with a RobbMc pump?

A: Yes. To use the vapor return line with a RobbMc pump, order part number 1010 along with the pump.

Note: Part Number 1010 is automatically included with Buick pump Part Number 1002.

Q: The 7 psi produced by the RobbMc pump is too high for my carb. How can I lower the pressure?

A: If your car is equipped with a factory "vapor return line", you can purchase part number 1010 with your pump. This will reduce pump pressure by about 1 psi. If your car is not equipped with a return line (or you need even less pressure), you can add a non-return style pressure regulator between the pump and the carb.
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RobbMc said:
You are confusing our mechanical pumps with the PowerSurge units.

The 550HP and 1100HP pumps are mechanical pumps.

The PowerSurge 500 and PowerSurge 1000 are surge tanks with electric fuel pumps inside.

The instructions for the PowerSurge units can be found at the bottom of this page: http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/powersurge.html
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Lol... Your Faq page needs to clarify it.

Seems like it is a nice set up. Where are the flow numbers located?

Still confusing here as well.... On the page you posted. Says it needs a regulator.

Notes:
The PowerSurge must be used with a bypass (return style) regulator. However, the return line runs from the regulator to the PowerSurge, not back to the fuel tank.
Not recommended for use with methanol.
Made in the USA. We use only genuine Walbro electric fuel pumps.
Not recommended for applications requiring more than 65 psi (75 psi intermittent).
Requires the use of a factory 1/4" vapor return line.
The PowerSurge 500 can be later upgraded to a PowerSurge 1000 for $100
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rmchrgr said:
Yeah, I was surprised at how cheap it was. Got it from JC Whitney on Ebay. Hope they don't send me some knock off. I am ditching a Carter street/strip mechanical, psyched to be stepping up to a cool-guy electric. :glasses7:

Anyway... from what I've read here and elsewhere, the Mallory was the quietest of the old school conventional fuel pumps. Noise was definitely a consideration for me as well. My car is pretty loud though, I can bet most any pump would be hard to hear it over the 'mufflers'.

The FI pumps all seem like they could be quiet as well but I would think the ones that get submersed in the tank are the quietest. That's what all the OEMs are these days. People complain about noises more than anything in cars. Automakers would be buried under noise complaints if they had noisy fuel pumps.
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Here it is:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/370926725550

Please let us know how it works out. This looks like a great deal.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Here it is:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/370926725550

Please let us know how it works out. This looks like a great deal.
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That's it. Have yet to find that pump anywhere for even double the price.

Probably won't have results for a while, my engine is in pieces on y bench. The pump is part of some winter upgrades.

OP should grab one, can't go wrong at that price, quiet or not.
 
That mallory pump set up comes with a return style regulator from the description, not a deadhead. That's a bonus to me
 
crackedback said:
That mallory pump set up comes with a return style regulator from the description, not a deadhead. That's a bonus to me
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If I got that setup, how would I run the return? Would it have to be a steel line or could it be fuel injector rubber hose or braided?

I was looking at getting a new sending unit with a 1/4 return.
 
I'm running a Carter Street Strip, and it's enough to make you go def....but it's going to stay on the car a little longer until I spring for the EFI here in the near future.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
If I got that setup, how would I run the return? Would it have to be a steel line or could it be fuel injector rubber hose or braided?

I was looking at getting a new sending unit with a 1/4 return.
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A 140 pump with a return/bypass regulator will require a 1/2" or larger return line from the regulator back to the fuel tank. You'll need to either change to a fuel cell or figure out some way to adapt a 1/2" return line to your stock fuel tank.
This is why we developed the PowerSurge units. No need for a large return line back to the tank. A small factory type 1/4" return line works fine.
 
RobbMc said:
A 140 pump with a return/bypass regulator will require a 1/2" or larger return line from the regulator back to the fuel tank. You'll need to either change to a fuel cell or figure out some way to adapt a 1/2" return line to your stock fuel tank.
This is why we developed the PowerSurge units. No need for a large return line back to the tank. A small factory type 1/4" return line works fine.
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Hey, I have one of your 1/2" pickups in my stock tank! Can I run a 1/2" return line back to that?

Just curious, why does it need to be 1/2"?
 
rmchrgr said:
Hey, I have one of your 1/2" pickups in my stock tank! Can I run a 1/2" return line back to that?

Just curious, why does it need to be 1/2"?
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A 1/2" (or -8AN) return line to a RobbMc 1/2" sending unit will work fine. When using a bypass/return style regulator, ALL the unused fuel is returned to the tank (unlike a bleed or "vapor return" line which only sends a small amount back to the tank to keep things cooler). So when using a bypass/return regulator, the regulator won't work very well unless the return line is large enough to eliminate most of the resistance in the return line. With a 140 gph pump, you will need a 1/2" or larger return line to make the regulator work correctly.
 
For a return at the tank, place a nipple in your fill tube.
 
If you bought one of those pumps on e-bay, get ready for a cancellation request from Whitney.

The people that I've spoken to all refused to accept the cancellation and want the pumps they purchased.

I guess we'll see. Too good to be true.
 
Well, I knew it was too good to be true. Stupid JC Whitney cancelled the Ebay transaction for the Mallory pump because they 'ran out of stock'. They refunded my money without asking me if I wanted to wait for the part so even if they do have stock on it eventually, I probably can't get it for that ridiculously low price anymore. Guess they figured giving parts away was not good for business. I sent them a nice message telling them how thrilled I was with their business practices.

:protest:
 
Noise depends on where you mount them. If on the rear frame rail, with minimal rubber isolators, you will hear a lot of noise thru the back seat. Mine are on the front frame rail in the engine bay and I barely hear them with the engine off and not at all when running. I know many say that location won't work, but works fine for me.

Any EFI pump will supply all the fuel flow you need at carb pressures (~6 psi), unless perhaps a 1200 HP drag rail. If you return to the 1/4" "vent tube" on many 3/8" tank senders, you will get ~10 psig, so you don't need a back-pressure reg for a carb. Use a little in-line pressure-reducing regulator (dial type) to supply ~5 psi to the carb (Mr. Gasket, etc).
 
rmchrgr said:
Well, I knew it was too good to be true. Stupid JC Whitney cancelled the Ebay transaction for the Mallory pump because they 'ran out of stock'. They refunded my money without asking me if I wanted to wait for the part so even if they do have stock on it eventually, I probably can't get it for that ridiculously low price anymore. Guess they figured giving parts away was not good for business. I sent them a nice message telling them how thrilled I was with their business practices.

:protest:
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I was going to say...I get that stuff at wholesale, and that was way way way under the pricing I was being quoted for that pump. I'm guessing someone screwed up that data entry on the Ebay feed. Sucks.
 
LXguy said:
I'm guessing someone screwed up that data entry on the Ebay feed. Sucks.
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BINGO!!

So, in lieu of the disappearing Mallory, I do actually have a brand new Holley Blue pump which I can use. However, from what I've read over the years on the interwebs, the old Holley Blue has a reputation for being noisy and unreliable. I see people trying all sorts of things to isolate them and keep them quiet. Not sure if I'll actually use it or not.

Maybe not getting the 140 was a sign to get an in-tank pump. In my mind, those have to be the quietest since they are a different design altogether as far as pump operation, the pickup is immersed in liquid (generally) and is mostly isolated from the chassis.
 
Holley Blue is stupid crazy loud. And unreliable. For once, the internet is accurate. I would never use one.

I don't really mind mechanical pumps, they're the quietest and least hassle. Does someone make a kit to put an in-tank pump in these cars? I can't see the benefit being worth the hassle of fabbing something like that.
 
LXguy said:
Holley Blue is stupid crazy loud. And unreliable. For once, the internet is accurate. I would never use one.

I don't really mind mechanical pumps, they're the quietest and least hassle. Does someone make a kit to put an in-tank pump in these cars? I can't see the benefit being worth the hassle of fabbing something like that.
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Yeah, that Holley Blue seems like an arcane choice.

I have a Carter street/strip mechanical, #6270. Seemed to work OK but I wasn't sure if it was keeping up, thought the bowls were drained at the end of a run. Never had a gauge on it though. It needed a regulator actually. Maybe could have used a .120 needle and seat. Just seems like an electric fuel pump may be a better choice in terms of pushing the fuel independently of engine speed.

There's a few companies that make tanks with pumps built in but they ain't cheap. There's also the Aeromotive Stealth.
 
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