I'm not sure to be honest Matt. It looks right? I'm shitty at documenting stuff lol and at getting it done too.
Rally dash redo
- Thread starter 4spdragtop
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Thanks Steve. Maybe someone else will know.
I'm just not sure. The book shows it this way in the illustrations - but its better when someone can confirm from a real example or three.
The problem in my case is that I had the instrument panel out, or partially out, in the early 90s and my notes didn't get into stuff like that then.
In fact I'm pretty sure I have the clip-on wiring clip that goes under the radio in a box. I'm going to look for that tommorrow.
I'm just not sure. The book shows it this way in the illustrations - but its better when someone can confirm from a real example or three.
The problem in my case is that I had the instrument panel out, or partially out, in the early 90s and my notes didn't get into stuff like that then.
In fact I'm pretty sure I have the clip-on wiring clip that goes under the radio in a box. I'm going to look for that tommorrow.
A few pages back we were talking about ring terminals.
Here in this post. Rally dash redo
So lemme update you. The thicker gage metal is more difficult to crimp. The Astro crimper couldn't do it. I had to use the copies of the packard crimpers.
In some (all?) I slightly reshaped the terminal 'wings' so it would crimp tightly. In other words the terminals seemed a little big for the gage and/or insulation.
This one you can see the insulation crimp seems wide. Although it held well and the shrink tubing went over it fine.
This one looked like it would need trimming
A little better
Here in this post. Rally dash redo
So lemme update you. The thicker gage metal is more difficult to crimp. The Astro crimper couldn't do it. I had to use the copies of the packard crimpers.
In some (all?) I slightly reshaped the terminal 'wings' so it would crimp tightly. In other words the terminals seemed a little big for the gage and/or insulation.
This one you can see the insulation crimp seems wide. Although it held well and the shrink tubing went over it fine.
This one looked like it would need trimming
A little better
Looks right to me. Drawing shows ignition switch wires are a tape out. Behind and away from the strap to prevent chaffing, easier routed to the switch. Large gauge wires dont spiral twist to orient a cluster type connector so well, especially when they are taped. We find more of round terminals in straight line connectors in the later models.
I have a pack of heat shrink tubing from Harbor Freight, various sizes and colors. Handy dandy to laminate their harness straps and clips.
I have a pack of heat shrink tubing from Harbor Freight, various sizes and colors. Handy dandy to laminate their harness straps and clips.
I went downstairs this AM to take a closer look at the Barracuda script on my brother's '67 notch. The face of the script is chromed and the sides are black.
Thank you!!!
I'd say that proves Redfish right! That's too even and too perfect to be caused by wear or aging.
Now I have to figure out how to fix mine...lol
Getting ready to do the packside painting but noticed a few things needed to be addressed.
The big one being the possible fit interference caused by some of the epoxy repair dabs.
Sure don't want to have it crack on assembly!
Some very careful work with a safety razor, exacto and file. That's better. Test fit was good.
Then noticed one of the stakes for the vac gage bezel was missed. Tommorrow I'll bring some ABS cement.
Overall still basically pleased, but little things to look for when dealing with any of these companies.
If its not too humid, tommorrow I'll tape and paint afte removing a little more of the excess epoxy.
The big one being the possible fit interference caused by some of the epoxy repair dabs.
Sure don't want to have it crack on assembly!
Some very careful work with a safety razor, exacto and file. That's better. Test fit was good.
Then noticed one of the stakes for the vac gage bezel was missed. Tommorrow I'll bring some ABS cement.
Overall still basically pleased, but little things to look for when dealing with any of these companies.
If its not too humid, tommorrow I'll tape and paint afte removing a little more of the excess epoxy.
I think I used some of the plastic from the factory plastic stakes. Been a while tho lol.
Looking good Matt.
Looking good Matt.
I don't recall those being staked. Well I have lots of pics. I'll see if I have any details for those two.
Hows your projects going?
Yes. Maybe this will jog you memory?
Just seems to be some adhesive.
Hi beam was sticking to the seal and the seal to the metal casting.
and brake was sticking to plastic panel.
Tabs help locate them. Although the worker with the stickers applied my Hi beam diagonally... LOL
Just seems to be some adhesive.
Hi beam was sticking to the seal and the seal to the metal casting.
and brake was sticking to plastic panel.
Tabs help locate them. Although the worker with the stickers applied my Hi beam diagonally... LOL
Those gaskets had adhesive on them. Proof? When you pull the gaskets from turn lens tubes in the housing, you often find the paper that covers the adhesive still there. Gasket is so captured in this location that the adhesive wasn't needed. These red and green lenses are quite captured too but could fall away and do need a light capturing gasket. That adhesive at other gaskets is likely dead today. Paper just falls off, no sticky under it. So transferring gaskets from one place to the other wasn't like Dorothys ruby slippers, just what I needed. I've had to remake a few of these gaskets from similar foam I had on hand too. Anyway...
I applied a little GE clear silicone adhesive with a tooth pick and laid the gaskets in it. Just enough to hold things in place during assembly.
I applied a little GE clear silicone adhesive with a tooth pick and laid the gaskets in it. Just enough to hold things in place during assembly.
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Thanks. I've got lots of weatherstrip adhesive. I'll prob use that.
Looking at my 'before' photos this afternoon noticed the green lenses should be staked at the top as well as at the bottom.
I'll do that tommorrow as when I noticed that detail, the panel was already taped up for painting.
One tip for a neater job with the ABS cement. Apply with one end of the toothpick. Then use the other end to shape it afte rthe surface has skinned.
Looking at my 'before' photos this afternoon noticed the green lenses should be staked at the top as well as at the bottom.
I'll do that tommorrow as when I noticed that detail, the panel was already taped up for painting.
One tip for a neater job with the ABS cement. Apply with one end of the toothpick. Then use the other end to shape it afte rthe surface has skinned.
Paint pen gave better results for me. Those who have experience in painting models might do as well with the brush. For me it went on too thick with the brush. Not that it matters in this location.
Did find some othe small details that needed fixing such as a chrome blocking the holes for attaching the top plate.
So very carefull drilled them out.
Did find some othe small details that needed fixing such as a chrome blocking the holes for attaching the top plate.
So very carefull drilled them out.
This will work out OK.
Guys and gals with experience in painting miniatures will do better than I did. But I'm OK with the minor imperfactions in the painting compared with lack of contrast with all chrome.
The paint Testers Semi-gloss black enamel.
Guys and gals with experience in painting miniatures will do better than I did. But I'm OK with the minor imperfactions in the painting compared with lack of contrast with all chrome.
The paint Testers Semi-gloss black enamel.
The reason this one didn't lay flat and tight turned out to be adhesive of some sort.
After I ground down the epoxy and pushed the stake nubs out of their holes, the script was still hanging on.
The stuff was more like rubber cement and didn't cut easily. Ended up using the tip of an exacto to slowly tease it off the surfaces.
I don't know if this adhesive was a part of the reassembly process, or left over and earlier step in their process.
It doesn't look like rubber cement, just acts like it when I was removing it.
And..IT'S ALIVE! (sans glovebox door)
After I ground down the epoxy and pushed the stake nubs out of their holes, the script was still hanging on.
The stuff was more like rubber cement and didn't cut easily. Ended up using the tip of an exacto to slowly tease it off the surfaces.
I don't know if this adhesive was a part of the reassembly process, or left over and earlier step in their process.
It doesn't look like rubber cement, just acts like it when I was removing it.
And..IT'S ALIVE! (sans glovebox door)
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Oil pressure gauge looks reading too high. They are just basic range indicators but... in calibrating approx' 60 psi should be at the 'U' in PRESSURE. Not sure why I can remember that when I can't remember what the center test point of 23 ohms was equal to in PSI. I'll go to the book later today.
Thanks.
I agree. Even cold start up, that's high. If you recall I tested the gages, so I suspect the replacement sender.
I have a new sender from Bill Rolick that is supposedly correct but wasn't able to swap it in yet.
It would be good to test the new sender for pressure vs. resistance. Have come up with a way to do that.
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I would get the gray wire off that sender now. Could be overheating that gauge.
edit; Curiosity got me so went to look... 23 ohms on this gauge is 40 psi +/- 5. and you gauge is now showing well over 80 psi which is as far as the scale/chart goes.
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That's possible. When I've had the accusump hooked up with its mechanical gage, start up pressures were 80 plus. I'll have to dig for those notes.
My notes from the gage tests are:
Power to IVR at 12.4 V
22 ohm resistor, oil gage indicator at halfway mark. So the gage operation seems OK.
My notes from the gage tests are:
Power to IVR at 12.4 V
22 ohm resistor, oil gage indicator at halfway mark. So the gage operation seems OK.
Home made spring-type mount that slips on the dash lip. At first I worried about it passing tech at the strip and for SCCA autocross and had fishing wire running right and left. But its proven to be pretty snug in there and no issues with any techs.
That is a cheap gage. I bought a VDO to replace it years ago but when I tested it out this spring, it sat too high and the glass had too much glare.
Anyway here's some pictures. I don't recall what I origonally made it out of. Maybe a metal cover for a wall mounted light switch?
The current version of this tach mounts differently.
The foam had seen better days so it was time to replace it.
It was time to address the small birdsnest of wires I had added under the dash, so made a auxillery gage harness.
Orange wire is connected to the plug in the original harness for instrument lighting on a console.
Tach power now comes from a fuse in the box - the same way it would have been done if the car came with a tachometer.
'67 had a bulkhead connector cavity available for tach signal, so I used that location as well.
edit. PS. here's a version Shumacher was making.
TachBracket
Personally I want the tach in front of my eyes but below the line my eye makes with the front of the hood. So that bracket isn't for me. picky picky picky.
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After warming the oil up to 170ish F, oil pressure dropped to just above 6th mark.
If that's around 60 psi, its still pretty high for 8 - 900 rpm.
I'll keep an eye on it.
The sender I bought from BRE is supposed to be for 0 - 80 psi, replacing p/n 2495222
http://www.billrolikenterprises.com/proddetail.php?prod=2495222
Rolick has a different one that is stamped 100 psi that he says was used from march 71 to 74. p/n 3488609
The one on the engine now is NAPA Echlin OP6603, installed in 2000.
Online catalog says it rated for 90 psi.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHOP6603
Need to think about how that might effect the gage reading.
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