*Realistic expectations..C-mon jump in!

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flyfish said:
This is where I got my guesstimate of $2500:


Cam = 330
Lifters = 435
Springs = 150
Retainers = 60
Locks = 40
Push rods = 200
Gaskets = 30
Timing set = 70
Rockers = 500 (or more)
Converter = 500 (more or less depending on size, brand, etc)

Machine work on heads (if needed) to accommodate springs ??? 150 ish???

The sum of these parts is $2465...so about $2500, give or take a little...I might be forgetting something, but this should get you close.
Click to expand...

i can see were your coming from so with out knocking any body le me show you were im coming from...

crane retro cam summit price about $430
flat tappet cam with lifters $260 difference of $170 more for roller
OP needs to replace springs if going with a more aggressive cam for this build not much spring needed.will call it $80 not part of the cost of going roller compared to flat tappet.
retainers... also stock would work with this performance level but if you replaced them it would be apart of the cost to do the job any way call it $60
locks...still depending on retainers and condition these could or may not be replaced at this level. still a part of the cost of doing a good job with or with out roller call it $40
push rods...if the OP planned on doing roller rockers anyway then these need replace any way. no extra here either call it$150 and this is for good ones not needed for this level of build.
gasket are necessary for this build if a valve job is performed call it $50 still not part of doing a roller.
timing set same here not a part of going roller at this level call it $70
rockers OP said he was doing anyway but you can still use stock stamped steel (factory) but at any level of performance still not a part of putting in a roller. call it $500 but there are way cheaper then this that will work at this performance level.
converter...OP said he was going to change this anyway but still not necessary at this level but a good idea. call it $200.
any machine shop work necessary for this performance level with a roller lifting in the .500 range is minimal ill call it $200 dollars and it might be needed depending on the condition of the heads.
any work on the head for funny geometry at a machine shop ill call that 100 dollars but this can be done at home if you have the skills and the tolling to do it would be apart of your skill level

so if you add what it take over the cost of a flat tappet cam (at least if your using crane cams) I'm going to say the necessary cost would be $170 plus $200 making it $370 there may be some things that are unavoidable and many variables but i don't see these as being much more over a flat tappet cam.
I'm not sure if crane is the best to go with for your machine i prefer comp myself but for the money i think you can see what i am saying

this is not a knock on any body or there skill level so please take it that way.this is just to point out that its not that big of a adventure depending on what your trying to achieve and if your racing for real and your class allows the use of a roller you better bet your running against them and might want to consider what it takes to get there. this does not mean that you must absolutely have one to race or be on the street. there are many other factors like money just for one.
 
the wall said:
i can see were your coming from so with out knocking any body le me show you were im coming from...

crane retro cam summit price about $430
flat tappet cam with lifters $260 difference of $170 more for roller
OP needs to replace springs if going with a more aggressive cam for this build not much spring needed.will call it $80 not part of the cost of going roller compared to flat tappet.
retainers... also stock would work with this performance level but if you replaced them it would be apart of the cost to do the job any way call it $60
locks...still depending on retainers and condition these could or may not be replaced at this level. still a part of the cost of doing a good job with or with out roller call it $40
push rods...if the OP planned on doing roller rockers anyway then these need replace any way. no extra here either call it$150 and this is for good ones not needed for this level of build.
gasket are necessary for this build if a valve job is performed call it $50 still not part of doing a roller.
timing set same here not a part of going roller at this level call it $70
rockers OP said he was doing anyway but you can still use stock stamped steel (factory) but at any level of performance still not a part of putting in a roller. call it $500 but there are way cheaper then this that will work at this performance level.
converter...OP said he was going to change this anyway but still not necessary at this level but a good idea. call it $200.
any machine shop work necessary for this performance level with a roller lifting in the .500 range is minimal ill call it $200 dollars and it might be needed depending on the condition of the heads.
any work on the head for funny geometry at a machine shop ill call that 100 dollars but this can be done at home if you have the skills and the tolling to do it would be apart of your skill level

so if you add what it take over the cost of a flat tappet cam (at least if your using crane cams) I'm going to say the necessary cost would be $170 plus $200 making it $370 there may be some things that are unavoidable and many variables but i don't see these as being much more over a flat tappet cam.
I'm not sure if crane is the best to go with for your machine i prefer comp myself but for the money i think you can see what i am saying

this is not a knock on any body or there skill level so please take it that way.this is just to point out that its not that big of a adventure depending on what your trying to achieve and if your racing for real and your class allows the use of a roller you better bet your running against them and might want to consider what it takes to get there. this does not mean that you must absolutely have one to race or be on the street. there are many other factors like money just for one.
Click to expand...

Hi Wall. I see what you are saying, but I don't think the roller cam price includes lifters. So that would add another chunk of change to the total, but everything else makes sense.
 
needsaresto said:
Lol,right you are! Totally forgot about that..they had to be that light or else the stock/6 woul'dt be able to move the car...
Click to expand...

You'd be surprised, but the lil /6 had no problems moving 5000 pound dodge trucks, with about the same gear ratio (3.23's / 3.55's) and larger tires
 
flyfish said:
Hi Wall. I see what you are saying, but I don't think the roller cam price includes lifters. So that would add another chunk of change to the total, but everything else makes sense.
Click to expand...

ha ha your right i missed it on the list it is with out lifter add add $425
 
74Dusted said:
You'd be surprised, but the lil /6 had no problems moving 5000 pound dodge trucks, with about the same gear ratio (3.23's / 3.55's) and larger tires
Click to expand...

I would'nt be surprised.I've had a few slant's,lol. Power was always barely adequate! Steep gears really do help the little /6. Dont get me wrong I love the slant. One of God's best creation's! But I am realistic for power expectation's,and compared to a Ford straight six they are down on power (GASP!!!). Oh yea I didnt dis the slant just stating my observations.
 
needsaresto said:
I would'nt be surprised.I've had a few slant's,lol. Power was always barely adequate! Steep gears really do help the little /6. Dont get me wrong I love the slant. One of God's best creation's! But I am realistic for power expectation's,and compared to a Ford straight six they are down on power (GASP!!!). Oh yea I didnt dis the slant just stating my observations.
Click to expand...

I wasn't calling you out or anything, just adding some info for those that probably didn't know the /6 was used in full size dodge trucks. :D (and the old flathead 6's before that... the flathead 218 in my '48 only puts out like 95hp)

super low compression and heavy internals, the perfect candidate for a centrifugal supercharger. I've even seen vintage (1940's / 50's) superchargers on ebay from time to time for those engines.
 
74Dusted said:
I wasn't calling you out or anything, just adding some info for those that probably didn't know the /6 was used in full size dodge trucks. :D (and the old flathead 6's before that... the flathead 218 in my '48 only puts out like 95hp)

super low compression and heavy internals, the perfect candidate for a centrifugal supercharger. I've even seen vintage (1940's / 50's) superchargers on ebay from time to time for those engines.
Click to expand...

NO PROBLEM! I can imagine a blower or turbo on a six pretty easy,there' is all kinds of room under the hood! And every time I see it done it's done very well and the /6 performs better than a small block!

I was referencing my memories of rat rodding around in my high school buddies Maverick,powered by something like a 250 or 260 straight six. It definitely had more jump than any of my stock /6 cars,not much mind you but just a bit more. That's alright though. The /6 was never intended for performance use. Heck it was never intended for hydraulic lifters,lol!
 
Gentlemen,

Thank you for all of your input to this point. I purchased this car with a bum lifter. I have pulled the engine,and I am ready to replace the valve train. I am 100% setteled on the TTi headers! the car has a complete TTi 2.50" exhaust on it whith the "H" pipe. I also plan on a new convertor based on the cam spec (100%). I am also sold on the idea of upgrading to a lower gear ratio, I was planing on the headers and gears at a later point, but it seems that, thats not the case. My headers are on the way via purolator. As for the "Roller" set up I am going to pass on it based on the over all cost, I truly belive the headers are money well spent. With this in mind, it alows me to reuse the stamped rockers as well as saving me some dough for the "Realastic" big picture (This months Mopar mag has killer write up on the stock rockers). When I decide in the next year or so build a better motor I will purchase a set of Eddy or Indy heads that will take to me to the next level. At least at that point I can reuse the well spent investment on the headers and gears. Any opions on Hydraulic grinds for the combo would be great, I apprciate all the help and the wealth of knowldge is very extent. THANK YOU!

Dave.
 
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