You should do research before you give advice. Comparing a mopar to a ford when ford bearings were never better then the mopar tapered style. Watch the video and sink in your chair. LOL. But you may know better, Can't wait for the response. Or your Quote on it like your thousands
Go back and read what I said,
slowly. It may dawn on you that I didn't say that green bearings were better than tapered bearings.
There are millions and millions of the green style bearings that are used on the street everyday, they come in quite a few new cars as well. That's just a fact, and your basic video with zero actual analysis doesn't disprove that. The way that the majority of people drive these cars on the street, they will never have an issue with the green style bearings.
Are tapered bearings better? For some applications, yes. Like I said in my post, I personally prefer the original style tapered bearings, and that's what I have in my Duster. But, I have a set of green bearings in my Challenger that did 70k street miles and are still just fine, even with 275's on all 4 corners and the car set up for handling and driven on winding mountain roads. They were already on the axles when I bought them and I had better things to do than change out brand new bearings.
The idea that green bearings don't work on the street is just BS. Like anything, for some applications there are better choices. I agree with the video, which is why I install tapered bearings on my cars. But that's not at all the same as saying green bearings aren't ok on the street.
I was answering his quote of my post. That is my point. Tapered are far better then ball bearing for longevity.
Having a shop we are always removing green bearings then pressing and replacing them with the factory style tapered with adjusters back on the axles for customers that had bearing failure . Then they look for a carrier that wasn't modified for their green bearing install so their tapered axles can be adjusted.
Not seeing the OP's car there could be many issues. Maybe his dad had the rear racked over because the wheel house is closer due to axle installation when they were installed. Or didn't the OP have the rear hanging center on the leafs when it was tightened.
My thoughts were the axles. The subject came up and I mentioned what I have seen when owners of cars that decide to install green bearings with no knowledge of the procedure to install them. Its not just tighten them up and your good to go .
You must remove the Preload/equalizer block in the carrier. I have seen several with the retaining plates pulled in at the nuts like a wafer.
Yeah, if you install anything incorrectly it can cause failures, that's really basic. But in this case, the axles and bearings were NEVER the issue, so this entire sidetrack on bearings is a waste of time.
OK, As I stated in my OP, the only thing I changed was the leaf springs. The leaf springs that came out of the car were the original leafs. Everything to the best of my knowledge was centered and there was NO clearance issues! This is what I'm scratching my head over. Talked with the guy that has helped my father for many years about my issue and he too has not a clue what it could be.
I'm starting to think I should have measured everything first. I do have the original leaf springs maybe I'll have to put them back in and start over with measuring everything and go from there. Reason I wanted to change the leafs was I'm not a fan of the rake in the rear of the car and didn't want to drag race the car as I've found out that was my fathers plan before he passed. He didn't do any modifications to the suspension or body, the only thing he changed was the axles (Moser axles) in the rear end and put the green bearings in.
Don't want too cut anything on the rear end or the body. I'll take some pictures this afternoon of said rear and post them on here!
Thanks again all
Before you reinstall the factory springs, take a few measurements.
-Measure from the frame rail out to the quarter lip of each quarter, and see if those numbers are the same. They probably won't be exactly the same, but that's not unusual.
-Measure from the spring to the frame rail on both sides. This number should be the same, or pretty close to it.
-Measure from the spring perch on the housing out to the outer housing flange on both sides of the axle housing. This should be the same.
With those measurements you should be able to figure out if the perches are roughly centered on the housing, if the springs are in the same position relative to the frame rails, and if there's any body tolerance variation from side to side.
Since you only changed the springs, you should be finding the difference in your current set up compared to the last set up with the spring to frame rail measurement.
