Rear end location wrong? IM STUMPED!!!
- Thread starter jrlhayton
- Start date
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Should I do the measurements with car on the ground or can it be done on jack stands?
It can be done with jackstands under the rear axle, the springs are still supporting the weight of the car and unless you put it really high in the air not much should change.
Another measurement to get would be from the chassis where the front spring hanger mounts back to the axle at the perch on both sides, in case there’s an angle on the axle.
Who cares what you said. Getting you to write a book of quotes is just plain fun.
Things get boring on this site without us. LOL. What else can we disagree on?
This was stated early on. Are you sure that the close side didn't have more space when the rear end was an inch higher so that it was never an issue?
I'm going to throw my hat into the green bearing ring for a moment.
7 1/4 use sealed ball bearings. And there were hundreds of thousands of not millions of them running for decades, not to mention the Ford 9".
Yes tapered bearings are more robust but if you have a bearing that will last 100,000 miles and tapered bearings will last 100,000 miles what different does it make.
I'm done.
7 1/4 use sealed ball bearings. And there were hundreds of thousands of not millions of them running for decades, not to mention the Ford 9".
Yes tapered bearings are more robust but if you have a bearing that will last 100,000 miles and tapered bearings will last 100,000 miles what different does it make.
I'm done.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
somebody on here is dreamin' of gorgonzola when it's clearly Brie time, baby.
LOL typical hijack in progress.
Happy New Year you degenerates
Happy New Year you degenerates
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
hoof beats? cain't possibly be horses! it's definitely zebras!
[insert 10 year old photos that have nothing to do with the subject matter here]
It's not fun. You being ignorant and posting to hear yourself talk regardless of the topic at hand is just tedious. Nothing you posted is even marginally relevant for the original poster, who has an actual issue that he needs to solve to get his car back on the road. This forum has the knowledge and experience to help him do that, if we actually bother to listen to the OP.
You're just ******* that up.
For my part, I will do my best to actually listen to folks and help solve their problems the best I can, because I actually want to keep these old cars on the road so people can enjoy them.
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OK "God" only your input is always correct. Anyone else always has to be quoted wrong by you. Why? Because you know every ******* thing and God forbids any input after you and the your followers who already posted about the tapered adjusters who bow to you after several posts on the same matter.
I did not post until Post#14 and tapered bearings were already being discussed. After being mention already in 5 posts . I mentioned it being fun because like always, you just quote everyone as being wrong . My first post I only gave info on the green bearing debacle that many don't know about . The adjuster block holding one axle from going in all the way.
I stated how I feel about green bearings at the end due to the 8 3/4 already has the better tapered style which are far better then ball bearings.
You brought up 9 inch ford so I then posted the video of The 9 inch upgrade to tapered.
I only ever see you posting your junk two cars that you have all your experience with. An ugly Duster with a black Dart nose and a blue glued together challenger. I have owned and built 100's ground up over 50 years and work on different issues every day on many cars that come through the shop.
Have a nice New Year (Mr. Suspension). May your wheels fly off a 90. LMFAO
Good example of you being god is post #25
JR your in "GODS" hands.
But You may want to put the car on Jack stands on the frame rails . Loosen everything up and let it hang without shocks. Center the housing and Tighten everything up while centered. Fitting big tires on many cars with minimal clearance this worked for me.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
LOL.....Step into my office cause' your F'n fired
That's you nothing but Hot air coming from your ***. As always
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
you've got your head so far up your *** from sniffin' your own farts i'm surprised you can even see, let alone type a response.
as always, you've proven to us that you entirely missed the point, ignored the conversation and turned the focus squarely back on yourself, provided absolutely no additional information that was of any help to the original question or frankly even relevant to the discussion. great job. top marks all around.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
As is typical with OMM. I’ve been using green bearings since high school. Still do today.
Haven’t failed one yet.
The green bearings don’t have a thing to do with the OP, but by gar the green bearings are the issue.
I'm gonna second the thought that the nub on the Hotchkis springs is smaller than the hole in the spring/shock plate and axle perch, I had to make spacer rings when I added their springs.
Also, someone mentioned maybe there was a difference previously that you didn't notice because of the extra inch or more of difference in height?
Also, someone mentioned maybe there was a difference previously that you didn't notice because of the extra inch or more of difference in height?
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
the fact that almost all the aftermarket axle suppliers offer their product with green bearings as standard should be proof enough... but yet, here we are. on the cusp of a new year and verge of another green bearings war.
but as typical somebody who thinks they know it all and have seen it all has to come busting thru the door shouting about some nonsense because that's the only experience they had that one time without reading the actual post.
Would this include leaving the front spring brackets (4 nuts each) and the rear spring brackets loose as well, or just the bolts that go through the eyes of the springs?
No. Just the front spring bushings and the U bolts. The rear hangers can be tightened to spec, since they swivel pretty freely. Don't forget the final torque spec on the u bolts is only 45 ft lb. I don't know what the front bushing bolt spec is but it's in the service manual.
Here are some pictures I took and I did some measuring also! I measure 1 3/8" back of leaf by hangers on both sides. LR tire to leaf f/b i got 1 1/8" ...RR tire to leaf f/b 1" and front of leaf to frame on drivers 1 1/8" passenger front of leaf to frame 1". If anyone needs more pics let me know and where
thanks
Ok, so measuring from spring to frame you're only at ~1/8" difference side to side, which is 100% within tolerances. Interesting point is that your tire to spring clearance is also off by an 1/8" side to side, which again is very much within tolerances for the axle on the springs, but both 1/8" discrepancies are on the same side. So left to right you pick up a 1/4" difference on how far the tires stick out. You're stacking tolerances.
At the tire to quarter clearance you've got 5/8" and we'll call it 1/8". So we know where a 1/4" came from, that leaves 3/8" to account for. Well, there's another 1/8" in the quarter lips themselves, the side that has more clearance also has a quarter lip that's an ~1/8" narrower. So now we're down to a 1/4".
Looking at your pictures, something else becomes apparent- the ride height may not be the same side to side. In your tire to quarter pictures, the left side measurement is right at the widest part of the tire. On the passenger side, it looks like the measurement is actually a little bit above the widest part of the section width.
So for measurements, I think there's a couple more to take. The height of the quarter opening to the ground (or race ramp) on each side, and then the quarter lip back to the frame rail.
My guess is that your passenger side is sitting a little higher (which gives it a little more clearance) and the drivers side wheel tub is probably a little bit narrower quarter lip to frame.
There are a few other measurements you'd have to check, but to me it seems that the rear axle is pretty much centered in the chassis, at least within factory tolerances. And the issue you've got is tolerance stacking. The springs a smidge off, the rear axle is a smidge off, the quarters are a smidge off, the ride height isn't quite equal, and all of those tolerances are stacking on the left side.
You could try loosing up your front hanger on the left side and trying to shift it over a touch. Same with the u-bolts, you could loosen them (on both sides) and see if you can shift the axle on the springs over to the passenger side. There isn't much to get at either spot, but if you picked up a little bit on each one you might gain another 1/8" of clearance.
And you could trim or roll the quarter lip back. Unfortunately with the axle over the springs it's really easy to lower the car, but it's not easy to raise it up. So for equalizing the ride height it would be easier to lower the high side than it is to raise the low side. But you need to raise the low side to gain more clearance.
Do think reaming out the spring perch holes a bit on both sides would help? I'll try loosing the front hanger and u-bolts and see if I gain anything!
I read something about Doctor Diff had 1/2 offset spring hangers, you think that might be a possibility?
Here are some more pics of the height, lip to rim ect you had mentioned!
Thanks for giving some ideas ! Greatly appreciate it!
Dang! Well looks like I was wrong about the ride height, that's no help there.
Those measurements are to the inside of the quarter lip?
Again it looks like you only have ~1/8" discrepancy in those measurements side to side. So you don't have an issue without any one part or measurement, it's just that all of your parts have their tolerance off in the same direction and the tolerance stack is coming to get you.
The 1/2" offset spring hangers require the perches to be moved on the housing. They do create a good 1/2" of extra clearance to the spring on each side, but your problem isn't clearance to the spring, you have plenty there. In fact if your wheels had an extra 1/2" of backspace you'd have plenty of clearance to the quarters AND the springs with the springs still in the stock locations. So the offset spring hangers would only help you if you got new wheels with even more backspace.
And that's the main issue. Those wheels and tires would fit if you had a bit more backspace on the wheels. But with the backspace you have they're right at the maximum, and you have a tolerance stack that makes it too tight on the drivers side.
At this point without cutting/rolling the quarter lip I think all you can do is loosen up the hangers and u-bolts and try to shift the axle over. I don't know how successful that will be though, because really there isn't a whole lot of play there and it doesn't seem like there's anything actually wrong with any of your parts. Like you might get an 1/8" back but that's not going to solve your problem. Enlarging the holes in the spring perches might help you shift the axle a bit more, but it opens up the possibility of the axle shifting back over on the springs later on the road. That's the kind of thing that shouldn't happen with the u-bolts properly toqued, but pot holes and curbs happen and then you'd be stuck again.
And honestly that's part of the problem with trying to shift everything over, it's not like the rear suspension is all perfectly fixed in place, it shifts and flexes back and forth with the bushings and shackles and even the springs themselves under load. So the danger is that you try to shift it over and it seems like you succeeded because you made some room, but in reality you didn't actually move any hard parts relative to each other (ie, the perches on the springs) and when you take it down the road it flexes back to where it was before and things rub.
Ultimately it's not that the axle isn't centered under the car, or even that the body is off a ton. You have a couple of tolerances that are well within the factory spec by themselves and you just happen to be up against them because you're very close to the maximum tire size for the car with the stock spring locations. Your wheels don't have the perfect backspace for that tire size, and the new lowered ride height you have with those springs doesn't leave you enough clearance to the body. It worked before because the body was raised up enough from the tires that it wasn't an issue.
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