Red Headed Stepchild-75 Swinger LSX Swap

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JDMopar said:
If the truck you are looking at with the 5.3 is a 2WD automatic, maybe consider using that transmission also. OD would be nice with the 3.73 gears. You also might be able to do some simple mods to the /6 k member to make it work. Look around in Alex5280's build thread about how to do it. I'm pretty sure it was him that converted a /6 k frame to a small block spec with minimal hassle. I'm in the middle of putting a 5.7 Hemi in a 70 Duster with a 74 V8 spool mount k frame. I'm using a car motor, and TTI told me right up front that the headers wouldn't fit that setup and still have the AC compressor in the stock location. I re-engineered the drivers side mount, and it fits now! Point being....with a little patience and head scratching, you can make about anything work. Have fun with your swap, and good luck. :)
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I had thought about using one of the 4l60's or even a 4l80 but with pulling it apart and paying another chunk of money to have it rebuilt to handle a turbo LS. A lot of people I know, who have any kind of power behind their LS, end up having them break. I know the overdrive is a huge plus but its not a Daily driver and other than the 2.5hr drive to Carlisle or 5 hr trip home to Ft. Bragg, NC, it wont go on many long drives. The Built turbo 400 should never break with my goals with the car.
 
Well I've got a lead on a running LS Truck motor that im going to hear run on Monday(via video). My brother is going to look at it for me in NC at the same place he purchased his 6.0L truck motor. So as long as that goes well ill be heading down to pull it and pick it up on August 4th/5th weekend and bringing the motor/harness/ecu back to Virginia. Its a 4wd truck so I cant do anything with the transmission. I'll be picking up a brand new 78mm T4 turbo setup when I get back to Virginia on the 30th.

After talking to Schumacher quite a bit the last week, I'm going with their GEN III mounts and I'm going to swing by Billy Wests garage down in Selma, NC and see about picking up a 73-76 v8 kmember if I cant find a decently priced one on CL local. Hoping that the Ford 8.8 with 3.73 and posi/disc brakes is still available when I get back as well, if so ill be grabbing that the 1st week of August as well. Because that would save a lot of money in the budget.

Also rolling around the idea of using one of FI-techs fuel command centers and adding a simple cheap inline fuel pump to feed it. Then it allows me to leave the original gas tank and I can mount the command center either in the rear or even somewhere lower in the bay that's out of the way, and it supports up to 800hp with the 340 pump, and get rid of the need to plumb a return line to the tank.
Go EFI Fuel Command Center – FiTech Fuel Injection

I've also rolled around the idea of just buying a new replacement tank/straps sicne they are so cheap, welding a return on it while its out of the car, and then just swapping it out for the current one. Then I would just mount an inline pump/filter back by the tank and a regulator in the engine bay, and run a return back to the tank.

Stumbled a nice alternator/wp bracket set to keep everything in tight and clean, leaving me plenty of room in the bay for piping and exhaust work. I plan on trying to mount that 78mm on the passenger side with the compressor inlet facing forward to make it easier to run the exhaust down the passenger side, which I "think" will be easier since the drivers side has the steering box in the way. possibly keep it 2.5" coming out and once it clears the torsion bars, open It up to 3".
5.3L LS Turbo Alternator & Power Steering Pump Mount Bracket LSX uses LS1or LS3 WP

And for the gauges im going to get one of egaugespro's 6 guage bezels and throw in a new 6 guage set of my own choosing to make sure I can keep an eye on all the new sensors.
70-75 Dart/Swinger

Pretty excited that things are moving along in the project, despite being in Arizona and away from home. But only a week left and ill be headed home.
 
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txstang84 said:
Just curious here:

Why not keep the factory style EFI setup?
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I plan on keeping the factory EFI that comes with the LS motor. The main decision I'm trying to make is getting the fuel to the motor. Seems like the easiest route is to pick up a cheap 12-16 gallon fuel cell on CL, drop the factory tank, add an inline 340-380lph pump(aem or summit), filter, regulator for a couple hundred dollars and then plum the return to the fuel cell since most already come equipped with a vent and return fitting. Or just go with the package deal from Tanks inc for about $500 or so shipped and just replacing the factory tank so it keeps it all stock looking, and replace the factory tank with their FI tank setup.

The command center is just like a secondary tank that I could mount anywhere and just run the vent out from the command center to the factory vent and use just about any low pressure inline pump to feed the 340lph pump in the command center. A lot less spent on lines but also more weight, but could be mounted anywhere. Id think the trunk area or somewhere back there to make the vent routing short and keep the fuel pump noise in the rear and not in the car or under the hood. Then just run the one feed line to the front of the car and be done.
 
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Ohh, I misunderstood you

If you're looking to keep the noise down, your best bet is going to involve keeping the pump submerged, and the package deal from Tanks inc. is probably the most comprehensive way to do that without much surgery to the existing structure of the car, albeit a rather pricey one.

My own personal feelings on the command center are it's a clever method of converting a once carbed car running an existing low pressure pump to high pressure system, but something about having a second sump, anywhere, isn't my cup of tea. But, hey, opinions. My Mustang came from the factory with a carb, but I converted it to EFI and plumbed it with braided flex hose from tank to rails...much cleaner install...worth the cost to me in the long run because you don't have to run two pumps, two separate power circuits, etc.
 
txstang84 said:
Ohh, I misunderstood you

If you're looking to keep the noise down, your best bet is going to involve keeping the pump submerged, and the package deal from Tanks inc. is probably the most comprehensive way to do that without much surgery to the existing structure of the car, albeit a rather pricey one.

My own personal feelings on the command center are it's a clever method of converting a once carbed car running an existing low pressure pump to high pressure system, but something about having a second sump, anywhere, isn't my cup of tea. But, hey, opinions. My Mustang came from the factory with a carb, but I converted it to EFI and plumbed it with braided flex hose from tank to rails...much cleaner install...worth the cost to me in the long run because you don't have to run two pumps, two separate power circuits, etc.
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The more I add up the costs, doing it without going the tanks inc route will cost me just about as much as the tanks inc. setup. So why not just go that route, make things simpler and easier.
 
txstang84 said:
Exactly.
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The only option I can see to beat the price of the Tanks Inc. setup is below

1. AEM 380lph inline pump - $110-150 off ebay(this pump only because I'm going turbo)
AEM 50-1005 High Flow In-Line Fuel Pump 380lph -10 AN Female Inlet -6 AN Outlet | eBay
2. 2 in1 Filter/regulator - $69.99 with fittings(39.99 without)(this is similar to the corvette regulator/filter combo that is commonly used on LS swaps)
Speedway GM LS V8 Fuel Filter/Fuel Regulator Kit, 58 PSI
3. 12 gallong fuel cell/with sending unit $75(vented feed and return already plumbed) - Craigslist
4. various hoses and fittings for routing to engine and back to tank- $100

total of about $395 and have it plumbed and all run together to the cell and to the rail at the 58psi that the LS needs.

If I was shooting for a max of 500hp from Speedway has a kit for $189 that you could pair with a cell and then just get lines and be good tog o.
LS1 Fuel Filter/Regulator EFI Fuel Pump Kit
 
Since I literally just went through this like a month ago, I'll put my .02 in. I had wanted to use the Corvette filter/pressure regulator as well. But... the more I looked into it a few places(tanks inc. included) don't recommend using that filter/reg with larger fuel pumps(larger than a 255 L/hr).

I ended up going with the tanks inc setup and am pretty happy. I was concerned with how loud the large pump would be, but thankfully it was surprisingly quiet. Only ding on the tanks inc setup for me was that the pump and sending unit mounting plate didn't fit great and I had to egg out 1 or 2 holes slightly.
 
N8track said:
Since I literally just went through this like a month ago, I'll put my .02 in. I had wanted to use the Corvette filter/pressure regulator as well. But... the more I looked into it a few places(tanks inc. included) don't recommend using that filter/reg with larger fuel pumps(larger than a 255 L/hr).

I ended up going with the tanks inc setup and am pretty happy. I was concerned with how loud the large pump would be, but thankfully it was surprisingly quiet. Only ding on the tanks inc setup for me was that the pump and sending unit mounting plate didn't fit great and I had to egg out 1 or 2 holes slightly.
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Thanks for chiming in I hadn't seen that feedback anywhere. The only downside now is to spend $600 on the Tanks in setup and still have to get a regulator and lines. But that's a small thing. I could also just go the fuel cell setup and use a different regulator

Another bit of good news. My brother is picking up a 2008 5.3 today with less than 100k miles on it from my Uncles garage for $250. So a huge piece of the puzzle is now purchased.
 
Here we go, all clean on the inside too.
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YoungDart75 said:
Thanks for chiming in I hadn't seen that feedback anywhere. The only downside now is to spend $600 on the Tanks in setup and still have to get a regulator and lines. But that's a small thing. I could also just go the fuel cell setup and use a different regulator

Another bit of good news. My brother is picking up a 2008 5.3 today with less than 100k miles on it from my Uncles garage for $250. So a huge piece of the puzzle is now purchased.
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wow that's cheap. I'm gonna have to go on a road trip when I start engine shopping. The local recyclers want at least 800 just for a 4.8
 
YoungDart75 said:
Here we go, all clean on the inside too.
View attachment 1715075526
View attachment 1715075527
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Are you going Drive By Wire? Are you getting the harness, computer and throttle pedal, too?
Also, go on the Tanks Inc. website, find the part number for the complete kit, pump, tank, and whatnot. Plug that number into the Summit website. The price may amaze you.
For what you're doing, run an intake pump with full length feed and return lines to a Aeromotive return style pressure regulator. You'll find the adjustment helpful. You can do with 3/8 (-6) line to and from, and get a good fuel filter.
 
magnumdust said:
wow that's cheap. I'm gonna have to go on a road trip when I start engine shopping. The local recyclers want at least 800 just for a 4.8
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All the pick n pull's down in NC where I do my picking sell them for 200-400 depending on what all you get with it because you're pulling the motor yourself.
 
YoungDart75 said:
All the pick n pull's down in NC where I do my picking sell them for 200-400 depending on what all you get with it because you're pulling the motor yourself.
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I'm kinda shocked that the pick n pull's near you have them. Everytime I've seen an LS truck at pick n pull, its either a burned out mess or mangled to the point that I wouldn't trust the integrity of the block/heads
 
Revhendo said:
Are you going Drive By Wire? Are you getting the harness, computer and throttle pedal, too?
Also, go on the Tanks Inc. website, find the part number for the complete kit, pump, tank, and whatnot. Plug that number into the Summit website. The price may amaze you.
For what you're doing, run an intake pump with full length feed and return lines to a Aeromotive return style pressure regulator. You'll find the adjustment helpful. You can do with 3/8 (-6) line to and from, and get a good fuel filter.
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Right now that's the route I've been looking at the most. The Tanks Inc. setup is on ebay right now for around $500 shipped(550 with the GPA 6 pump I'm going to need), not $600 plus shipping like off the Tanks Inc. website. I just looked and summit has it for $450 shipped, so thank you very much for the tip off on that. I just have to verify it comes with the Tanks inc. GPA-6 pump before I order that. Nothing a quick email to customer service cant find out for me.

I'm going to go drive by cable, I feel like the drive by wire is just more crap to fail later on down the road and more issues when tuning( and I don't feel like getting the pedal and all that to go with it, I like my Mopar Pedal). I'm going to get a cable throttle body, as well as a cable drive harness and ECU off of a donor car. Should hopefully find one of those in the next week or two and I know of a way to make it run off the factory harness as well with a few things removed and the ECU being reflashed.

Tomorrow this beauty should be in had as well. ON3Performance 78/75 T4 turbo. Not much info on these other than the fact they make huge power on stock motors, and they are built with parts from the same supplier as Turbonetics, but not as high a price. I picked this one up brand new, with the polished housing for $300.
On 3 Performance 78mm Turbocharger – 7875 | On3Performance
154kpxu.jpg


Still hoping to grab that 8.8 with the 3.73's when I get back to VA for $100, hopefully he still has it.

Currently right now on the LSX swap, my costs are listed below:
Motor - $250
Turbo Manifolds - $80
78mm Turbo - $300
Total so far - $630

ifwh80.jpg


2uxz3pk.jpg
 
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magnumdust said:
I'm kinda shocked that the pick n pull's near you have them. Everytime I've seen an LS truck at pick n pull, its either a burned out mess or mangled to the point that I wouldn't trust the integrity of the block/heads
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My brother pulled his 6.0 out a Yukon as well, it was in great condition too and it cost him $250 as well without the harness. Hoping that I can find a harness/ecu not mangled beyond repair an then the OBDII connector from under the dash within the next week or two so I can wire it all in and get it tuned when the time comes.
 
YoungDart75 said:
Right now that's the route I've been looking at the most. The Tanks Inc. setup is on ebay right now for around $500 shipped(550 with the GPA 6 pump I'm going to need), not $600 plus shipping like off the Tanks Inc. website. I just looked and summit has it for $450 shipped, so thank you very much for the tip off on that. I just have to verify it comes with the Tanks inc. GPA-6 pump before I order that. Nothing a quick email to customer service cant find out for me.

I'm going to go drive by cable, I feel like the drive by wire is just more crap to fail later on down the road and more issues when tuning( and I don't feel like getting the pedal and all that to go with it, I like my Mopar Pedal). I'm going to get a cable throttle body, as well as a cable drive harness and ECU off of a donor car. Should hopefully find one of those in the next week or two and I know of a way to make it run off the factory harness as well with a few things removed and the ECU being reflashed.

Tomorrow this beauty should be in had as well. ON3Performance 78/75 T4 turbo. Not much info on these other than the fact they make huge power on stock motors, and they are built with parts from the same supplier as Turbonetics, but not as high a price. I picked this one up brand new, with the polished housing for $300.
On 3 Performance 78mm Turbocharger – 7875 | On3Performance
View attachment 1715075606

Still hoping to grab that 8.8 with the 3.73's when I get back to VA for $100, hopefully he still has it.

Currently right now on the LSX swap, my costs are listed below:
Motor - $250
Turbo Manifolds - $80
78mm Turbo - $300
Total so far - $630
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I'm sorry I can't remember the intake ports on your 5.3 right now, but keep shopping Ebay for LS intakes for the ports you have. At this point it will be way less expensive than the FAST or Holley intakes and the performance difference for your power level will not be noticeable at all. I like how the 5.3 spins up. You'll have fun with it.
 
Revhendo said:
I'm sorry I can't remember the intake ports on your 5.3 right now, but keep shopping Ebay for LS intakes for the ports you have. At this point it will be way less expensive than the FAST or Holley intakes and the performance difference for your power level will not be noticeable at all. I like how the 5.3 spins up. You'll have fun with it.
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The intake ports will be the cathedral type ports on mine. I've seen too much bad stuff about the sheetmetal ebay manifolds and having them flex like soda cans. Which is funny because the holley sniper/FI tech's are identical to the ebay manifolds, but haven't heard bad things about them. This link right here is why I will not buy an ebay sheet metal manifold.
Symbol Performance SCAM

Although I do plan on picking up a set of the holley rebuilt 75lb injectors for $175. That should be more than enough injector for me and this stock motor. All the research I've done and experience I've gained with other people, the 5.3's are the better options for stock block boosted motors.
 
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YoungDart75 said:
The intake ports will be the cathedral type ports on mine. I've seen too much bad stuff about the sheetmetal ebay manifolds and having them flex like soda cans. Which is funny because the holley sniper/FI tech's are identical to the ebay manifolds, but haven't heard bad things about them. Although I do plan on picking up a set of the holley rebuilt 75lb injectors for $175. That should be more than enough injector for me and this stock motor. All the research I've done and experience I've gained with other people, the 5.3's are the better options for stock block boosted motors.
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I've never heard bad about the Holley intake. My preference leans to the FAST intake, though. Try and find an LS6 intake for the inexpensive alternative. Definitely get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator if you're going to run the big injectors. Remember the Ford Motorsports injectors will work, too. I look forward to seeing your progress.
 
Revhendo said:
I've never heard bad about the Holley intake. My preference leans to the FAST intake, though. Try and find an LS6 intake for the inexpensive alternative. Definitely get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator if you're going to run the big injectors. Remember the Ford Motorsports injectors will work, too. I look forward to seeing your progress.
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The Holley and FI tech Manifolds are relatively new. They are essentially the same design as the ebay manifolds but seem to have a little bit better craftsmanship. Like they literally took the failed design of symbol performance(because in the hotrods test the symbol picked up 57 hp over the LS6 manifold) and threw a little better materials and welds and then threw their name on it.
20 LS1 Intake Manifolds: Tested!

I will be using an adjustable FPR for sure and have had great success with the Aeromotive style ones in past builds.

And if you look at the link above, the difference between the truck manifold and the ls6 manifold are below, on the same engine, same injectors, same throttle body.
Truck - 549 hp @ 6900, 481 tq at 5000
LS6 - 557hp @ 7000 483tq @ 5000
I already have the stock truck manifold with my motor, I cant justify 200-500 for an LS6 manifold, just to pick up 6 hp and 2 tq. If I were going that route id go with something like a speed master for around 200, which made 561hp @ 7000 and nearly identical torque(although part of that could have been due to the 102MM TB).

But if I do make a change on the intake manifold it wont be until after I have the motor in place and figure out how high an intake I can run on it without hood clearance issues. plus the biggest point of this swap was to prove how cheap and relatively easy it was to do the swap if you were smart enough to do the research and shop around. So maybe just swap in the stock motor with the turbo and upgraded fuel system upgrades and see what she does. Then wait and save enough money for a nice intake and tb setup later on down the road and do a side by side comparison.
 
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Go with the new tank from Tanks Inc. They are a silver powder coated work of art and because the pump is in the tank it will last longer and run quieter. Fitech also seems to be having trouble with their fuel coomand center. I have one in my Dart
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Brass barbed fittings, and Teflon tape have no place in a high pressure fuel system.
 
I really like the simplicity and cleanliness of that Tanks Inc. Setup, even more so now that Revhendo shared the info about summit selling them too for about $150 off what Tanks Inc. Sells them for.
 
I put one of those "tanks" tanks in my fuel injected crossram duster, I agree that they are SWEET!
 
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