Relocating the rear differential 1.25” towards the rear of the vehicle on a 72 Dart

-
It will work fine = We have it on both our 10 Sec. Street Valiants.
However, it is a bit noisy of adjusted properly.
 
Going to call Calvert Racing in the morning and check into a mono-leaf setup with caltracs.

Not too sure about how it will behave on the street.
It will be fine. The avatar has that setup with the split mono springs. Noisy? Mine make a noise on part throttle 2-3 shifts on the street but that's all I ever hear. Deep throttle, the engine is LOUD so you don't hear anything from the suspension!
 
All of ours make a loud clunking noise when shifting gears
especially 2 to 3.

We leave in a small town where everybody know us, so we
are only at full throttle at the Track.

We have Pro Trans reverse Valvebodies that shift hard, that
probably aggravates to clunking compared to a stock transmission.
 
Last edited:
@GTX JOHN are you running the sliders?

I talked to Calvert this AM and they felt I would be ok just using the rear shackles, I too am running a reverse manual 904. I am also under 500 hp. If needed I could add them later.
 
We do not run the sliders even on our 8 or 9 Second Mopars.

John Calvert is our friend and the sharpest suspension man I know.
The Calvert Family (John/Brother/Sons) are all very formidable racers
that we hate to see in the other lane!


Do be sure that the shackles are angled a bit backwards so they
do not flip forward.
 
Thanks JohnI might give you a shout if I get into something I am not sure of.
I you can swing a deal on the pricing I will order everything through Calvert.

Otherwise I will probably be ordering through summit, so if you have any of those codes that would be awesome!
 
PM me and I will send you a few.

If I post them here someone may use them before
you do and they are one use only (Entire order but one time).

Look me up if you ever get out my way again = Enjoyed meet you
last time.
 
Going to call Calvert Racing in the morning and check into a mono-leaf setup with caltracs.

Not too sure about how it will behave on the street.
I have a 72 dart setup identical to what you are talking about, dana 60 moved back 1.25, caltrac setup with sliders etc. I drive it a ton on the street and a fair amount on the freeway and I can say I think it drives better than it did with all the stock stuff. Is your car painted green go?, that's what color mine is.
 
The color is by Tamco it is called Toxicity has a gold pearl mixed in. Real close to Limelight.

IMG_0015.jpeg
 
I have a 72 dart setup identical to what you are talking about, dana 60 moved back 1.25, caltrac setup with sliders etc. I drive it a ton on the street and a fair amount on the freeway and I can say I think it drives better than it did with all the stock stuff. Is your car painted green go?, that's what color mine is.

Did the 1.25” relocation affect your shocks and differential potentially hitting the fuel tank?
 
All of ours make a loud clunking noise when shifting gears
especially 2 to 3.

We leave in a small town where everybody know us, so we
are only at full throttle at the Track.

We have Pro Trans reverse Valvebodies that shift hard, that
probably aggravates to clunking compared to a stock transmission.
I'm glad to hear this @GTX JOHN ! I've always thought the 2-3 shift CalTrac noise was just my car. I also have a RMVB but mine is a name you'll probably recall from the past: Griner. It's in my Cope 727 trans. Low band apply, etc, etc. It's a keeper for sure!!
 
I have the springs relocated inward; I wonder if it would be ok to drill another hole in the front hanger 3/4" back as some have suggested?

USCT Front Spring Hanger.jpg
 
Yep. A lot of people do that. Some relocation boxes even come with additional holes drilled rearward for that purpose.

Before you drill, it may be a good time take a quick X-measurement to ensure the rearend is square to the body. A lot of times, they aren't due to sloppy factory tolerances.
 
Right now my rear leaf springs are in their stock location on the dowel pin centered on the rear end perch.

I have always been bothered about how close the front of the rear end is to the wheel opening in my case about an inch an an eighth away from the wheel lip.

I was looking over the rear spring perches this evening and I noticed that the was a round hole in the center of the perch, and two square holes on the perch one located about 1.5 inches forward and one 1.5 inches aft.

Could a guy just loosen the clamps drill the front perch so it would accommodate the locating pin and relocate the pin the the forward position, which would relocate the rear axle aft?

Me thinks this would look much better but is there some geometry or other issues to consider?
View attachment 1716342644View attachment 1716342645

Right now my rear leaf springs are in their stock location on the dowel pin centered on the rear end perch.

I have always been bothered about how close the front of the rear end is to the wheel opening in my case about an inch an an eighth away from the wheel lip.

I was looking over the rear spring perches this evening and I noticed that the was a round hole in the center of the perch, and two square holes on the perch one located about 1.5 inches forward and one 1.5 inches aft.

Could a guy just loosen the clamps drill the front perch so it would accommodate the locating pin and relocate the pin the the forward position, which would relocate the rear axle aft?

Me thinks this would look much better but is there some geometry or other issues to consider?
View attachment 1716342644View attachment 1716342645
I have mine in the front holes of my 70 dart. Did it about 6 years ago when i got rid of the /6 rear and put in a ford 8.8. the driveshaft was too long for the new rear in middle hole but fit good in the forward hole. Tank and shock clearance is tight but ok with the 8.8. have lately been thinking about moving it to the middle though because i have a better mustang drive shaft that might work then. Never experienced any wheel hop on burnouts yet but never been down a track either.

image.jpg


image.jpg


image.jpg
 
Last edited:
All of ours make a loud clunking noise when shifting gears
especially 2 to 3.

We leave in a small town where everybody know us, so we
are only at full throttle at the Track.

We have Pro Trans reverse Valvebodies that shift hard, that
probably aggravates to clunking compared to a stock transmission.
GTX I have a 727 built by Pro Trans Dave Smith with a forward shift pattern that is noisy (clunk through all 1-2, 2-3 ) but are positive
rock solid. My 727 is manual shift only. Great transmission.
 
There is NO better transmission builders than Dave and his son Darren!!

I have well over a 1/2 dozen race cars with his transmissions, and many are 20 to 30
years old with just minor freshening up (mainly clutches and steels)
which we can do in the shop ourselves.

I have never had one that I have put in that has had issues.

However, he is extremely busy all the time.
 
-
Back
Top