Replacing Instrument Cluster bulbs with LEDs - Illumination Detail Question - 67 Barracuda
- Thread starter soonercruiser
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soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
Yup!
I gave up on them today.
I disassembled the turn signal housings, cleaned up the lenses, and sprayed the reflective surface Chrome.
I had to dis-and reassemble once more, since I apparently didn't have the bulbs seated all the way, or correctly.
The old bulb receptacles were a PITA to get push in and seated all the way.
And when I went to test the again, I realzed that the housing probably gets a good ground from the screws in the grill support.
(Silly me thinking that becasue there were 2 wires that one was the ground - forgetting about the dual function.)
So a simple screw driver from the housing to the bumper allowed me to test the before reassembling.
I will make a worthy effort to get the tail lights converted to LEDs.
Even with the "newer" matching taillights, the lenses are aged enough to lose significan translucency.
(Ya, I know someone will tell me I should have purchased new lenses. But, all these parts expenses have to end somewhere.)
soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
Thanks, but................"load resistor may be required"......??
I'd be in the same situation I am with "Superbrightleds". that I already have in my posession.
I've had great luck and service with them over the years. All my interior LEDs are from them.
I'll stick with them.
soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
We will see!
I believe the problem is actually "load resistance"......the very low load that LEDs take.
So, if Superbrightleds" recommends that I will try it out and test all other light functions.
We will see!
I believe the problem is actually "load resistance"......the very low load that LEDs take.
So, if "Superbrightleds" recommends that, I will try it out and test all other light functions.
If not, I return all the stuff back for a refund.
The historic posts that I have read noted that manufacturers had not yet perfected an LED bulb that would work for our old cars. (couple of years old posts)
And the one that was noted to work several years ago is no longer available.
So, there is no "simple" plug and play replacement.
Sounds like some basic tests might be useful to solve your problems.
1. Do your bulbs light up if you short across the two flasher terminals with the turn signals on? Is they do, your flasher is likely bad or hooked up wrong.
2. Can you hook up your flasher and a bulb in series directly across the battery to see if it flashes?
A lot of chinesium stuff is bad out of the box. Divide and conquer. Check all your parts first to see if they are good.
It is also possible that the two flasher wires are reversed in the flasher connector.
1. Do your bulbs light up if you short across the two flasher terminals with the turn signals on? Is they do, your flasher is likely bad or hooked up wrong.
2. Can you hook up your flasher and a bulb in series directly across the battery to see if it flashes?
A lot of chinesium stuff is bad out of the box. Divide and conquer. Check all your parts first to see if they are good.
It is also possible that the two flasher wires are reversed in the flasher connector.
soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
The front turn sisgnal are just fine once I cleaned them up as posted.
And, once I got the bulbs all the way in correctly, they work fine.
So, I feel no need to clutter up the front end any more with load resistors or flashers.
Less than 24 hours, and Superbrightleds has already responded to my trouble shooting question on the taillights.
I will update once they work with me.
soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
Superbright LEDs is suggesting trying "load resistors".
Will try those after I get the Barracuda back.
She's at the shop overnight straighteneing out a few issues, which I will post on another thread.
Will try those after I get the Barracuda back.
She's at the shop overnight straighteneing out a few issues, which I will post on another thread.
I too prefer the OEM coke bottle green illumination produced by incandescent lights behind blue diffusers. I don't think a poll in this forum could prove which side (OEM or LED), is the minority since not every classic car owner, or even all a-body owners participate and/or would respond to the poll.
For the sake of conversation only, I'll add that one of my favorite features in my RAM truck is its black face instruments and all its chrome bezel accents. Of course the aftermarket offers the white screen overlays for those instruments too. The white takes away from the chrome in my opinion. So it boils down to personal preference.
Happy motoring
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Ok, let’s do a little math on load resistors.
1157 bulb (rear) brake light is 2 amps.
1034 bulb (front) is 1.8 amps.
Led bulbs pull about 0.2 amps
So 2 + 1.8 = 3.8 amps through the flasher.
The led bulbs pull 2 x 0.2 = 0.4 amps
So you need a load resistor that pulls the difference, which is 3.4 amps.
14V divided 3.4A = 3.5 ohm load resistor to pull the same current with the turn signals on.
14V x 3.4A = 47 watts that the load resistor will need to dissipate.
47 watts is a lot of heat. It will take a 100 watt resistor to run safely at 1/2 capacity.
A 100 watt resistor is large and will put off a lot of heat.
My point is that the load resistor is a very brute force method of solving the problem. It also negates one of the best features of the led bulb, that is running on less power.
If you have healthy wiring and the right flasher that is connected properly, your LEDs should work great.
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soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
Wow!
That's a lot of electrical math! And I didn't take elec engineering. (just kidding)
Consider that the LED taillights are a single bulb, and dual function.
So, I think that the heat generation is overstated.
A single load equalizer is usually rated at 30 watts, and 6 ohm.
And, you have to have one for each bulb.
The Sylvania ones that I bought at Advanced Auto are rated to handle those big LED off-road light bars.
If they work, and I find them getting too hot, I can always attach an additional heat sink.
Two six ohm load equalizers in parallel is 3 ohms. This is even resistance less than my estimated 3.5 Ohms. Heat generation might not be a big problem as most folks probably won’t have the brake lights or turn signals on for that long. It will be interesting to see how they work When you try it.
soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
Will definately "report in"!
71Plumcrazy
New Member
What's the difference between the turn signal flasher and the hazard flasher?
I’ve been playing with LED’s and home lighting for the past couple years. Seems I am now the go to guy in my area when someone wants them, probably just for a lack of any competition.If I need to improve my home lighting...yes!
On a car...NO!
Very coooooool.
They are the same part.
The OEM ones are rectangular boxes, not like the round Tridon replacements.
soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
That's what I'm after.
Yes. Yes, I was……Looks like you were LED astray!
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
Exacerbated by the fact you can't even get decent 1157 bulbs anymore.
A possible issue with gauge lights is that some "dimmable" LEDs don't do it well. Some dim a little, then go out. Some dim a little...then flicker like a dollar-store disco ball. While amusing, it would probably get annoying in a hurry.
If you leave one regular bulb on the dash light circuit, the LEDs will dim reasonably well. It could be the bulb in your radio. I left incandescent bulbs in my aftermarket gauges.
soonercruiser
Well-Known Member
NO LUCK HERE with LED taillights!
I replaced the 2 flashers with electronic ones.
Everything still worked well.
Tried the LED taillight - no go!
Tried using the load resistors; tried several times since the wire clips suck as connectors....to be sure I had good wire contact - still NO LUCK!
What I did notice when the one side worked while the headlights were on is....it really wasn't all that much brighter to make a big difference in the 67.
So, I'll just be content with the incandescent bulbs.
I replaced the 2 flashers with electronic ones.
Everything still worked well.
Tried the LED taillight - no go!
Tried using the load resistors; tried several times since the wire clips suck as connectors....to be sure I had good wire contact - still NO LUCK!
What I did notice when the one side worked while the headlights were on is....it really wasn't all that much brighter to make a big difference in the 67.
So, I'll just be content with the incandescent bulbs.
You might have better, more uniform light output by painting the inside of the housing with flat white rather than silver.
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