Restart the rebuild

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So continuing on with porting, the intakes are "done" both port and bowl side. Tried to smooth out as much as possible at 80 grit. Hand scrubbed the ssr.
Then to the exhaust, I hadn't touched them since I started on them a couple years back.
As I mentioned in another thread, #2 exhaust is is pretty close. All I want to do is smooth/polish without changing shape.
After "finishing" 2 and 4 exhaust, I figured I would measure runner volume on #2 int/ex . With my DIY cc kit, I measured 166cc intake and 70cc ex. Those are approx lol. I used alcohol and food coloring. Already had kit from cc'ing comb chambers. Gradually filled to top, put "lid" on with vaseline smeared around port. And forced air bubble out.(2 holes and vaseline is a must!) :eek: :lol:
Based on valve sizes(I read a % thing somewhere),
2.02 int 166cc runner vol =83%??
1.60 ex 70cc runner vol =43.75%
Advice/suggestions? Glaring problems?
As I mentioned the int are done both sides. Ex are almost there. #2 done both sides. The goal in my opinion is to mimic #2 and 4 ex as best I can. Hopefully smoothing the finish and leaving the shape alone!
Thanks all.
Oh I noticed a "decent" sized lip around the intake seat, chamber side. I hadn't touched(wasnt gonna) combustion chambers, but thoughts on laying it back, getting rid of it? In the pic with red straw.
Thanks again.

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4spdragtop said:
So continuing on with porting, the intakes are "done" both port and bowl side. Tried to smooth out as much as possible at 80 grit. Hand scrubbed the ssr.
Then to the exhaust, I hadn't touched them since I started on them a couple years back.
As I mentioned in another thread, #2 exhaust is is pretty close. All I want to do is smooth/polish without changing shape.
After "finishing" 2 and 4 exhaust, I figured I would measure runner volume on #2 int/ex . With my DIY cc kit, I measured 166cc intake and 70cc ex. Those are approx lol. I used alcohol and food coloring. Already had kit from cc'ing comb chambers. Gradually filled to top, put "lid" on with vaseline smeared around port. And forced air bubble out.(2 holes and vaseline is a must!) :eek: :lol:
Based on valve sizes(I read a % thing somewhere),
2.02 int 166cc runner vol =83%??
1.60 ex 70cc runner vol =43.75%
Advice/suggestions? Glaring problems?
As I mentioned the int are done both sides. Ex are almost there. #2 done both sides. The goal in my opinion is to mimic #2 and 4 ex as best I can. Hopefully smoothing the finish and leaving the shape alone!
Thanks all.
Oh I noticed a "decent" sized lip around the intake seat, chamber side. I hadn't touched(wasnt gonna) combustion chambers, but thoughts on laying it back, getting rid of it? In the pic with red straw.
Thanks again.

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I have never seen using port volume percentages. I’d have to think about that.

One of the problems with port volumes and port volume comparisons is you can have the same port volume and very different port shapes.

I always look at my port volume when comparing like heads but I only used it as a reference to make sure I wasn’t going to far off the rails.

A great example of that is Stock and Super Stock Eliminator.

Those guys are stuck with the factory pour volume and that’s it. But the Stock guys can do some work with the valve job and the bowls (a small bit) but they still have to be the factory volume.

Super Stock you can port the hell out of it, but when you are done you have the have the factory port volume. That gets into some serious work. And money.
 
Picking up where I left off on drive side head. Damn thing was "loaded" so I put my retrofitted vs compressor to work. Saves the fingers!
Starting with intake.
Port side had some work, bowl side untouched.
Put gasket up to check against ports. Looks like I touched them previously, but still room if need be.
Measured the throat also as it was untouched.

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Ok onto exhaust bowl/chamber side.
Took some measurements as I havent been into those just yet. So stock measurements for what my measuring is worth lol
Right below valve seat
1. 1.3815
3. " "
5. " "
7. 1.3715
Narrowest part of throat
1. 1.2290
3. 1.2560
5. 1.2250
7. 1.2340
Take a look at ridge inside bowl!
#5 doesn't have one due to heat crossover?
#1,3,7 are brutal. I know to leave shape alone, but that's some decent grinding to smooth it all out. And that's my goal was to simply smooth it all.
Ideas? Pics of ported exhaust?
Thanks
Steve

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Started to smooth everything out. Using a stone for the most part(so far).
There is a pretty significant ridge/lip(narrower), right below valve seat. My fingernail catches when moving inward like the exhaust would. This is where the small stone comes in handy! Fn nerve wracking and tedious tho. The 1st pic with red straw shows what I'm talking about(untouched).
2nd pic shows area partially smoothed with small stone.

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Heres pics of that wicked ridge down in the bowl. Before and after with both small and bigger stone. The goal in bowl here is to JUST smooth down to ridge and get rid of casting flaws/texture and hopefully 120 grit rolls will be smooth enough??
Thanks
Steve

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Last edited:
Finally done all the porting I'm gonna do! I didnt alter exhaust any other than smooth casting flaws and polish to 120 grit.
As a reminder I have to go back and hand scrub with 80 grit.
Now moving fwd with spring heights. Got an asst of shims, plus original shims when valves were done.
Measurements on #2 with no shims
Ex, 1.6555, 1.6575, 1.6530
Int 1.6545, 1.6470, 1.6745.
Springs are comp 942,s.
Not sure about shims yet as specd seat psi is 115 lbs@ 1.700 and I'm slightly tighter than that.
Thoughts? Obviously I'm going to check them all.
Thanks
Steve

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Before measuring installed spring height, I figured I would chk stem height 1st. Dont have a machinist straight edge, so closest was an alum drywall square lol.
Only variance between stems was #2 ex. (Checker spring) 0.006" lower, and #8 exhaust was 0.002" lower. Taking into acct the redneck measuring capabilities and that these were both outboard valves, I'll call it good lol.
Next the installed height.

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Parts is good I told the wife "I have all the parts to put my car back together Ive been collecting for years....Im glad too because stuff isnt cheap now.." :)
 
Been a while since I updated, but was working behind the scenes with another member Graham to get heads machined ready for springs.
Graham offered to help me with advice/parts. Cutters to get spring pads and guides where they needed to be for Lunati 73949 springs and Qualcast seals.
Had to make a wood cradle to help hold the head while cutting guides down.
Pulled inner springs and installed the outers so it's ready for cam break-in.
I'm not the greatest student lol, so I appreciate Grahams knowledge/patience lol.
Next step(I think) is the rocker arms/shafts/pushrods. I would like to add banana grooves to the shafts, but not quite sure how "precise" I need to be lol.
Thanks again Graham! @Max1196 :thumbsup:

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4spdragtop said:
Been a while since I updated, but was working behind the scenes with another member Graham to get heads machined ready for springs.
Graham offered to help me with advice/parts. Cutters to get spring pads and guides where they needed to be for Lunati 73949 springs and Qualcast seals.
Had to make a wood cradle to help hold the head while cutting guides down.
Pulled inner springs and installed the outers so it's ready for cam break-in.
I'm not the greatest student lol, so I appreciate Grahams knowledge/patience lol.
Next step(I think) is the rocker arms/shafts/pushrods. I would like to add banana grooves to the shafts, but not quite sure how "precise" I need to be lol.
Thanks again Graham! @Max1196 :thumbsup:

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All you need is a hand drill until you want to actually sink the pockets. When you're just cutting down the OD of the guide that locates the spring, drill works fine.
 
Thanks J, yep, that's what I ended up using. I didnt trust myself drilling with the press. I like to feel in "control" lol. Never done it before so VERY leery.
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
All you need is a hand drill until you want to actually sink the pockets. When you're just cutting down the OD of the guide that locates the spring, drill works fine.
Click to expand...
 
Just a great thread and super good notes with pictures, nice job @4spdragtop just goes to show you can still do a lot of cool DIY work when you apply some hard work and a bit of ingenuity. While having all the greatest newest tools and equipment is optimum it is not realistic for most of us, as we aren’t doing enough to justify the expense. Thanks for the notes Steve!
 
Nice jig set up. What was the angle measurement?
 
I just cut 2x4 to 16" length, then cut corner to corner(45*). I used 2 pieces of 1/2" of plywood straps. Bottom one was used as a "stop to keep head from sliding down". The other one was used as a "wedge" until valve/guide was perpendicular (or close).
Hope that makes sense.

Got one head on and was going to assemble with new ARP head bolts #1443602, but I read in their instructions about using thread sealant if going into water. Do I need to worry about sealant/water? $30 for a tiny damned tube.... :BangHead:
jazak5 said:
Nice jig set up. What was the angle measurement?
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Nice job on the heads…I just worked on a set of 302 heads for my nephew…I cheated a bit because my wife’s business is next door to a machine shop…and the owner lets me sneak in after hours…

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