Restart the rebuild

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My opinion on the carburetors is the Edelbrock style... Sometimes you can find a Christmas sale or buy the factory seconds as well. (Get put on a waiting list)..
From my research and looking at the edelbrocks specifically for the dual quads I found that they are tuned slightly different... Secondaries being the same but primaries staggered a little bit for tip in... Tuning them is likely going to be a process that takes several weeks of warming it up and test drives and frustration and finally getting it LOL.. it should be quite drivable right out of the gate but just getting that nats on feeling takes a little while...
Remember you can always give me a phone call anytime and I'll talk to you about all the nuances that I ran into...
 
Well, got some shop time in sporadically. Took a couple times to get JP Performance TC set (thanks @Max1196) installed as close as possible dot to dot.
I went to a website that allowed you punch in cam card specs and would lay them out on the degree wheel. Then print it off. I taped it to a crude 8" wheel I made from masonite. I kept finding it would compress and throw off measurements. Reinstalled a Mr Gasket one and used the printed one as cheat sheet.
Took a couple times, have to fine tune my measuring "skills" lol.
My max lobe lift was .329", that was at 107* ATDC. 0.050" on either side of that gave me 153* ATDC and 64* ATDC. So adding the 153+64=217÷2=108
5. 2nd time around gave me 109* ICL.
This is installed straight up.
Cam card states 106* ICL.
Opinions? Dial indicator and degree wheel still hooked up.
Thanks all!

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Are you going to max lift and then going down .050 on each side and taking your measurements?

If so, on some lobes you can introduce an error there.


What I do is zero the dial indicator on the base circle and for your lobe I would go up to .250 lift on the opening side and take a reading. Then go up to max lift and then on the closing side when you get to .250 and take a reading.

Doing that means you are exactly at max lift between the average of those two numbers.
 
I measured max lift at approx .329" lobe lift(cam card states .331") I'll call close enough. I came down .050" on either side of max.lift. Took crank degrees and averaged them. I could better my measuring skills. But I got 108.5 ICL the 1st time and 109 the 2nd time.
I checked the duration at 0.050" and came up with 234* 3 times and cam card is 235. I'll call good there.
Heres a video I referenced from on YouTube.

Rat Bastid said:
Are you going to max lift and then going down .050 on each side and taking your measurements?

If so, on some lobes you can introduce an error there.


What I do is zero the dial indicator on the base circle and for your lobe I would go up to .250 lift on the opening side and take a reading. Then go up to max lift and then on the closing side when you get to .250 and take a reading.

Doing that means you are exactly at max lift between the average of those two numbers.
Click to expand...

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I get what your saying with taking measurements at 0.250" I would assume the same rule applies "avg of the 2 measurements in degrees" is ICL?
What error do you talk about using 0.050" ?
Rat Bastid said:
Are you going to max lift and then going down .050 on each side and taking your measurements?

If so, on some lobes you can introduce an error there.


What I do is zero the dial indicator on the base circle and for your lobe I would go up to .250 lift on the opening side and take a reading. Then go up to max lift and then on the closing side when you get to .250 and take a reading.

Doing that means you are exactly at max lift between the average of those two numbers.
Click to expand...
 
Ok so redid the intake ICL with 0.250" measurements from base circle UP vs .050" DOWN from peak. Got ICL of 106, same as card.

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4spdragtop said:
I get what your saying with taking measurements at 0.250" I would assume the same rule applies "avg of the 2 measurements in degrees" is ICL?
What error do you talk about using 0.050" ?
Click to expand...

Yes, that’s what I’m saying. You are trying to eyeball max lift the way you are doing it. I always go .050 or a bit more on either side of max lift and take my readings. That takes the eyeballing out of it.

I picked .250 on the opening side and .250 on the closing side because it’s more than .050 less than max lift and it’s a nice, easy number. You could use .280 on either side of max lift but I like .250 because that easier for me.
 
Ok, plugged my numbers into Wallace to confirm what I was getting.
Looks like the cam card and cam are pretty bang on. See screen shots.
So before I move fwd should I leave all installed as is(straight up). X heads with adjustable rocker gear next on deck.
Thanks
Steve

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Thanks Troy, when "I" did the math the #'s were close but I think I was messing them up somehow. I plugged into Wallace and they look good. I'll get it flipped over and mockup the pickup tube vs the oil pan clearance, as well as windage tray.
CFD244 said:
Nice job Steve. You are now my "go to guy" for cam degreeing:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
 
Mocked up the timing cover. Not sure about the color yet. Not quite the same shade as the MP red. Also double checking hole depth in block for the cover bolts.
TDC on dial indicator matched up with TDC on timing cover and orig style balancer. I have a new Trickflow SFI I mocked up. Quite a bit thicker, but has an inner offset. I'm HOPING no pulley alignment issues. Degree markings on opposite side...
Got oil pickup tube depth set. I removed pump, backed off a couple turns. Retightened shy of where it was previously. Remounted pump, placed pan over it and pushed pan down which tightened the pickup. Pulled pan back off and taped 1/4 piece of alum to pickup give me the depth off bottom of pan. Placed pan on again and gained that 1/4". Pan was on without gaskets so another 1/8" maybe?
Windage tray on.
Oil pan and tc cover final install next.

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Not much gap between slinger and chain. 032". Seems close. I'm all for using it but seems like a gambler. I've got drip tab and bolt with hole.
Opinions?
Thanks

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4spdragtop said:
Not much gap between slinger and chain. 032". Seems close. I'm all for using it but seems like a gambler. I've got drip tab and bolt with hole.
Opinions?
Thanks

View attachment 1716030919
Click to expand...

Ive had them hit with a double roller chain and not hit with one. I don’t know why a couple hit and the rest didn’t.

Rather than spend a bunch of time running down why they hit I just don’t use them. In retrospect I probably should have figured out why but I’ve never had an issue without one.
 
Mine seemed to have a bit more clearance than what you have there. I don't think you would have any major dramas running it that close, but then there are also heaps of motors running around without an oil slinger if you aren't keen on using it.
 
Seeing this pic in this thread got me thinking..
New modified oil slinger
David Dickerson said:
I just received emergency FDA approval to produce them! I love this forum. Always entertaining and quite informative. Stay tuned for full approval if you are interested.
Click to expand...

Rat Bastid said:
Ive had them hit with a double roller chain and not hit with one. I don’t know why a couple hit and the rest didn’t.

Rather than spend a bunch of time running down why they hit I just don’t use them. In retrospect I probably should have figured out why but I’ve never had an issue without one.
Click to expand...

Ted265 said:
Mine seemed to have a bit more clearance than what you have there. I don't think you would have any major dramas running it that close, but then there are also heaps of motors running around without an oil slinger if you aren't keen on using it.
Click to expand...

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What f you put the "snout" of the slinger into an adequately sized 3/4 socket, and pressed the center down? Wouldn't this "wing out" the outer edge just a hair to allow for the needed clearance? Hard to describe what I am saying, but try to picture it.
 
Still mocking up, but noticed my Trick Flow balancer wont go on all the way...you can see and feel a noticeable ridge. Ima thinkin' this ain't right?

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4spdragtop said:
Still mocking up, but noticed my Trick Flow balancer wont go on all the way...you can see and feel a noticeable ridge. Ima thinkin' this ain't right?

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That’s correct. The diameter is opened up right there so you don’t have to press it on all the way.

Im not 100% sure on that particular damper but they usually call for .0010-.0015 or so press fit.

I should say something in the instructions that came with it about that.

Ive had to hone a bunch of them to get the press fit correct.
 
Thanks, it mentions "special attention" and that's it lol, other than a balancer installer(gotta steal one ). I'll chk website out.
Rat Bastid said:
That’s correct. The diameter is opened up right there so you don’t have to press it on all the way.

Im not 100% sure on that particular damper but they usually call for .0010-.0015 or so press fit.

I should say something in the instructions that came with it about that.

Ive had to hone a bunch of them to get the press fit correct.
Click to expand...

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